₦airaland Forum

yungboss: every car gets to 180kmph,i once hit 170+ in my c220 4cyl. But thats stres 4d car my brother compared to the ease of a v6 or v8,doing that in a v8 or v6 would look effortless. U need more 'force', power(hp) to tear the wind open at such speed,there's somthng called 'drag' that comes into play at such speed, alot of power is needed to overcome this. thats where u appreciate a car with a superior hp...v8,v6.

Not every car gets to 100mph or approximately 110mph as you stated. Most American cars (including the big ones and the trucks) are limited to about 90+ and many that aren't governed that low will begin to be asthmatic at such conditions. The Mercedes is different for it is designed to move at top speed for 24 hours non-stop as effortlessly as you would drive at normal road speeds with exceptional road manners. Your explanation of wind resistance makes partial logic; it's twisted and not applicable in all but you have an idea. Vehicles are designed differently and Mercedes left no area untouch in high speed/lane change characteristics. The v6 will not get to top-end effortlessly due to its inherent nature. When it does, it will be coarse and performance will begin to diminish after a while. This is due to the residual shaking forces or rocking couples and heat. Moving through air faster is not dependent on engine but how streamline the volume surface is. How would you explain the Lotus? How would you explain the 356 with its 4 cyl VW engine that rated 45hp and a top speed of almost 90 miles per hour trashing the Ferrari and Maserati's that were v8's and v12's of that era, thus winning the GT race? Aerodynamics is very important and that is very difficult to conceptualise. Don't get me wrong, it is not independent of power but power and lousy drag coefficient will yield unimpressive performance.

As a fact, after 100 miles per hours in a Mercedes Benz, you are being sucked-in as you proceed. You don't feel the resistance as you would feel in other cars and it is stable and composed. Much fuel isn't used as well and the power is also refined. This truly is engineering for a sedan and this is an E Class. You feel pulled into the air. They are biased this way.

yungboss: Nothing is wrong wit a V6, our mechanics dont understand its complex nature, v6 for me, is better since i like the power it delivers. It's also smoother. I have a straight-six engine which has been so reliable

A straight-six is not a v6. This is inherently smoother than the v6 and it is balanced. The v6 is a rough engine compared to the straight 6 that you drive. They don't also perform well in mid-to-upper band, hence all the torque is usually concentrated in the lower rev range. If you notice, you will have to rev your engine to translate into the power band for it's not so torquey at the lower range. This is the nature of the inline engines. The v6 is a flawed engine and will always be. Most v6 on the road today don't have the secondary order flaw eliminated. It's too expensive and not worth the cost (especially on an economy engine). It also doesn't give much performance. The worst are the 90 degree v6's.

The straight six's or the horizontally opposed are the quintessence of six cylinder arrangement.

The straight-six' are also durable and cost less in maintenance. It's difficult to design and manufacture. It's also an engine that leave almost no room for error during packaging.

Ikenna351: Car is not SUV, dont get confused.

Meanwhile, the guy that said that Audi A8 FWD had V8 as well was right. I just checked & confirmed. My mistake then. That means Audi has break the record.

Ikenna.

Some "SUV's" are cars. The M Class is a car - and that's according to Mercedes. On its own class, I don't think it has a competition yet. It is also a first. The X3 and X5 are cars too without added potentials, save for certain biases. The Explorer, Expedition, Yukon, poser Hummer, some Toyota's and the rest in the aforementioned calibre are pickup trucks. The Range Rover, Toureg/Cayenne (multi-purpose), Wranglers etc are 4x4's or offroaders.

A dedicated 4x4 will have two transmission selectors. They're short wheel-base also.

In reality, there is no such thing as an "SUV." It doesn't exist in automotive. It's a marketing term. This is never mentioned within automotive circles.

The chassis is what you look at and not the form-factor. You'll mess up when judge a vehicle by its form-factor. There are some cars that look like boats and when they pull of to your side, they are taller than your German sedan. Upon closer inspection, you'll notice it's a compact vehicle on 14 inches of rims, yet taller. A new name has been given to such insanity and it's called "crossover." There are other categories to this insanity as well. The truth is that no such thing exist and it's all a marketing term. The crossover term was nothing but damage-control to sinking automotive sales in the United States during the fuel spikes in prices. Somehow some way, they were able to convince people that you could get the fuel efficiency and ergonomics of a vehicle while having a truck-like build. The same principle applies to the BMW notion as being the ultimate driving machine and the 50/50 weight distribution. These were by marketers/advertisement groups. In theory and manifestations, it cannot be imagined, let alone a foresight of truth.

Nissan cars are imitations. The Z has always been an imitation of the Carerra (since the 70's) and now, they've taken up the Turbo. They are loud about it and do a poor job at it too. When you come up with something to beat the industry-benchmark for a fraction of the cost, there will definitely be an explanation to how to cost-savings were made.


To those referring to the R35, if you worked hard for your money, you wouldn't err in purchasing one - either used or new.

@OP

The first thing you need to do is find another mechanic.

The engine doesn't need a rebuild/overhaul. White smoke means you have your cooling system getting into your combustion chamber. That is all that it is. How, is another matter entirely. A blue smoke would mean your rings are worn out. Find another person. The problem came as a result of the previous services done (as you stated).

A note of caution: if you ever venture into the territory of rebuilding an engine, get another car. There are too many attention to detail needed for such a task and when this is omitted, engine never runs well.

If the Toyota served you well, then remain with it or move up within that "league." The Mercedes you are referring to in question is NOT anywhere dependable as the Toyota you have accustomed yourself to.

kuntash: after reading many posts on this thread, I just realized that an entry level of Mercedes is being compared with the executive of a Japanese Honda car.... Honda accord is the executive model for Honda cars... while the Mercedes C class is the entry level - despite this, aside whatever my opinion is about this debate, I am happy with the result - many poster tipped the Mercedes as by far better.

Ordinarily it should be Accord vs an E-class, (say, 2003 Benz E-320), C-class vs Honda Civic, etc..

I never regretted selling my toyota camry that I bought tokunbo after I bought a naija used Mercedes - C200, this even prompted me to start a thread on Nairaland- "Mercedes Benz thread" - (https://www.nairaland.com/520025/mercedes-benz-thread) - visit and get more benze details

God help you to get a good mechanic for any car, if you have used a Benz, Audi or BMW before, it might be so difficult for you to drive any other car, especially Japanese...

simply put there is a feeling you get when u drive most german cars, u dont get it with Honda accord.

Kuntash, majority of the questionable suggestions are from people that don't own a Mercedes; let alone those clueless about Mercedes-ownership. The conclusions of some are decades old. The 203 is a needy vehicle and the post-war philosophy was not in this design. It is an expensive vehicle to upkeep and the merits you get is not worth the money and time you will pay in ownership. If you cannot do your own repairs, you are best with something else. It's not also benzy in ride-quality. The build quality is also poor. Delete the price constant, it is not a match with the Honda in question. Both cars are disposable. Mercedes' heritage was not a factor in the construction of that build.

platinumricky: The W203 C-class (2001-2006) is a joy to drive, but reliability is a major problem. The 05 accord will be cheaper to run, if maintenance costs matter to u, avoid the w203 (especially the early model yrs).

This is the answer to the first post in black & white.

If you plan to go japanese, avoid the Toyota brands. The physics is poor and roll-over is quite high with the trucks. I did witness one on a Saturday morning and to date, I cannot fathom how this truck rolled over within such short distance and narrow room for excessive body-roll. It turned over to the driver's door. It was also at the line for the red light (traffic light). The road isn't rough.

The ML in its design is superior and except you like trucks, you will be down-grading (the ML is a car and not a truck - the very reason it doesn't drive like one). To answer your question, firstly, I believe you are referring to the 163 chassis. It won the FIA world cup Cross Country Races (toughest rallies in the world) in its reign 4 or 5 years in a row. It was production-based homologation; in other words, the production car was what you took except for some adaptations to match the desert conditions, which were the aggressive tyres and a few other changes. So, the vehicle is rugged and you won't have to worry about straight-line/lane-change stability. Since your model designation is E-Spec, the ignition timing could be dialed back a few degrees to adapt it for the lower octane gasoline. There is a resistor where it could be manually done. I actually don't know where it is because it isn't available on the U.S. market and MB did not begin using the ECU approach or adjusting ignition for lower octane fuels till 2009.

Get your suspension worked on (if the state is questionable) and ditch the OEM dampers for Bilsteins. It's cheaper and you won't have to replace the dampers again despite wild road forces Nigerian roads might demand. It's a good investment.

If you plan to keep the ML for a couple of years, sell the V6 and trade-up the V8. The V6 will cost you more with serious attention and expenses. The V6 is prone to a catastrophic engine failure where the balance shafts rips through the engine. If you are worried about fuel, the rear has been tuned tame acceleration, hence fuel consumption is 1 mile more than the V6 variant.


Happy Benzing!

Denn: Why quote emotional statistics? If one single guy posts his dislike for the 190 on a gay website, does that make it a declaration from mercedes? Give us a reference please. Have you heard that the 190 is the most engineered benz to be developed in the eighties? You can hit google for more information on the 190 which is now turning to a classic. And for your 'fact' about people having more C class to sell, have you ever given it a tthought that the cheapest benz sedan before the advent of the A class was the C class? More people buy C class brand new so they have more to sell fairly used than the E and G classes. Same thing for 3 series BMW as against the 7 series

It's a two year old thread plus there are certain opinions you don't answer to because it's just waste. The mere fact that the 2.3-16v was compared to the C Class should have been red flag.

@the main thread:

The correct counsel would be the Honda. Anyone that says otherwise with respect to the original poster's initial thread is either being dishonest to himself or lacks the understanding of the Merc-in-question's ownership.

Pastor Kun: At Trac thanx very much for your imput and i do appreciate it. However when i said a good paint Job should be able to last four years i was thinking of the Nigerian situation. As in that is the average time it lasts in Nigeria. In one of my previous posts i was trying to give hints as to how to maintain your paint Job to make it last longer and i did talk of the kind of car wash liquids you should use in washing the automobile. You see i Lagos for instance most Car wash centres i have observed used detergents to wash cars and this is very bad for the paint Job. Also because of poor driving culture and reckless commercial drivers and okadas, cars get scratched a lot. Generally speaking under driving conditions in Lagos, you might need to re spray your car at least once in four years to keep it looking sharp.

I've gotten where your point of view came from.

Pastor Kun: If your paint job lasts for fifteen years it would mean that the vehicle was just parked in a garage for that period and is not exposed to the elements talkless of Lagos Okada riders . As i said earlier conditions affect how a long a paint job would last.

Don't take this offensively. I am not dragging you through the "mud" either.

I will criticise you a bit but constructively. Examine what I state. It will add to your wealth of understanding.

You might be using non-tropicalised paint. Read my explanation:

Firstly, I have a passion for well-built cars (build quality) not the "rubbish" that rolls of the production plants today or yester-year(s). The 15 years mark is the minimum, conservative and that includes neglect in the standard. I was quoted $15,000 for the job and this was before the economy went south. In my situation, the clear-coat was beginning to bubble at a particular area (no more than an half-an-inch at two different spots). The vehicle is stone-black and the affected area was whitish. I was educated that the paint would last at least 15 years and he guaranteed it. The paint and the processes were the key-thing here.

When a car is rolled-off the manufacturing plant, it sits in the sun for months (and in some cases, a year or two). If anything goes wrong with the "paint-work" in five years, the company can be rest assured that they wouldn't be selling the next model as strong as the prior.

Cars are manufactured in two standards: tropicalised and non-tropicalised. The materials used, the principles and philosophies are not parallel but suited to match climatic factors ( and other regional considerations). Vehicles manufactured for tropicalised regions are usually beefed up (reinforced) in certain aspects and they are setup for comfort and economy instead of performance. The glues, seals, rubbers etc are very different. The paint-job (formulation) is also different.

The paint used for non-tropical should not be used in tropical regions. It will not last for it is not suited for the climatic conditions.

This also explains why tropical cars are not equipped as non-tropical cars for the same price. Bigger cooling, reinforced suspension components, materials to withstand various grades of fuel and so on runs the price up.

One thing that I know you would do to spoil the paint on any vehicle is to use sodium laureth sulfate (dishwashing soap and also what women put on their skin). It takes one or two washes and a week in the sun for the reaction to complete. This is not to excuse those that unintentionally dent the panel or dig into the paint.

I will like your input to this. I am not into automotive painting. In conclusion, the paint might be your bottle-neck for the short lifespan. If there are limitations to your process (baking) that gives it the 4-year average window, I will appreciate it.

Pastor Kun: @All
Please feel free to ask me car care tips to keep your car looking very sharp.

People keep asking me how long does a paint Job last? Well it varies due to environmental and maintenance factors but a good paint Job should be able to last for at least four years. How ever due to our harsh climate not to talk of regular Okada scratches it might not last so long.

To keep your car looking sharp for as long as possible, it is advisable you are very mindful of the type of soap used in washing the car. As a rule avoid using detergents or highly concentrated liquid soaps like morning fresh. There are very good car was liquids in the market like Abro gold and our own Lanre badmus car wash liquid. These car wash liquids are specially formulated to preserve the colour/ shine of your car whilst keeping it spanking clean. In the absence of these car wash liquids, it is better to use ordinary water than strong soaps or detergents.

You are wrong on "that" standard. A good paint job should last 15 years not 4 years.

It is true using mild shampoos preserve the quality of detail. I can't really speak for painted cars, due to the fact that I don't completely aware in details what actually goes on and the logic of some of the processes. I can comment exteriors rolled from the production factory. The colour we see is oil and not paint.

Pastor Kun: How long a paint Job lasts is dependent on how you take care of your car(type of car wash liquid you use) and what the car is exposed to to. However barring any external problems a good paint job should retain it's gloss for at least three years.

Oven baking is a process where by the vehicle is first of all sprayed in a modern spray booth that has a vacuum to ensure that excess paint is extracted when the vehicle is being sprayed there by ensuring a smoother finish. There after it is baked to ensure the paint drys very well under a controlled atmosphere. Oven baked car paint jobs last longer than regular since it's harder to scratch and it also as a better gloss.

Thanks you for the explanation. From what I understood, it is simply paint and cure, right?

Personally, I have a deep problem with painting cars. Does this method work? How is this better than the traditional method?

davidhoop: thanks trac, however i would just like to know if you can refer me to someone who is vast in the electrical aspects

Frankly, I don't know anyone to assist you on that; others can assist you on that.

Interesting!

We learn everyday.

How long do the paint on the vehicle lasts?

What exactly is oven baking?

davidhoop: hi, ive been an observer of this thread and i must commend u guys. i recently got an ml430 1999 which had some issues that i resolved except one. there are times when after switching off the ignition all the lights on the dash board come on and it refuses to start thereafter unless some fuses are taken in out and in (f16 & f 22).ive had serveral ppl check it but no one seems to know it behaves so. i however suspect it may have something to do with d security in d car as d remote key doesnt work. can somein pls explain wahts happening?

My response to Biyala's issue is the closest (PSE control Module) to what your issue is. If all is well with your PSE, then you need to examine every area the PSE works with. This is an electrical matter and I'm not really big on electrical issues, so I usually skip them. There are circuits that work with the PSE; the central lights, the windshield defogger, and some other misc.

Sleek Reek: I need expert advice,i have a 2005 Benz C230 Kompressor that is indicating service B required in 20 days,my problem is what type of Oil should i use for the servicing and also i want to shange out the coolant which type should i use?

In the nutshell, Service A aka 10,000 mile service is basically oil changes and some inspections that aren't necessary needed. Needless inspections as in:



Service A is 1 hour, Service B is 2 hours, Service C is 3 hours and so on. Each iteration of the alphabet represents the hours. Service H will be 8 hours.


These are Mercedes Benz service checklist

http://www.usautomotive.biz/Flexible_Service_System.html


The checklist should not intimidate you. If you carefully go through it, you should be able to sniff-through and identify what makes the checklist bloated.


Re - Coolant:

If you backtrack on this thread, you will see the post where a particular formulation of coolant is stated (an attached .pdf). It'll be best to educate yourself on that: not only for your Benz but subsequent cars (and Benzes if you continue within the brand). I would have given you the post ID but for some reason beyond any clue, the forum omitted this subtle feature.

biyala: Hello Trac
Please i need your expert advice. I was trying to google the solution to the problem I am currently facing with my 2001 200 clk kompressor when i stumbled across this thread. So i decided to register so I could communicate with you.

Anywasy this is my problem. I got up one morning and when I used my remote to open the doors there was no response like there was a loss in communication with the car and key remote. But it did not stop there. When i tried to start the car I put the key in the ignition but the ignition would not turn. Also,the sucking like sound after the key has been put in the ignition no longer happens. Something like this happened about a year ago. I took the key to a technician and he told me he could fix it. I dont quite know what he did but when I collected the key the next day it worked just fine. Please what could be the problem and what can I do to solve it. Thanks

I know this is quite late. I did not get a notification to this thread. Out of curiosity, I clicked on the last link to this thread from my inbox.


There are two aspects to this issue:

Key might be out of sync

or

PSE Control Module might have developed a fault


Re-synchronise your key

*Insert your remote key into the ignition and position it to the ON sector
*Remove the key
*Press the LOCK and leave it held
*With the LOCK held, push the UNLOCK five times
*Release the LOCK
*Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button (any one of the keys).


Pneumatic System Door Lock Control Module (PSE Control Module)

This module controls the manifold vacuum assist, central locking system,theft deterent system and maybe something else that I have left out. It is usually located at the rear panel adjacent to the right brake light. It is foam padded. It's shape is like a scalene triangle (90 degrees) that resembles a trapezoid. Remove the PSE module from the foam and disconnect all the connectors. Diagnosis begins at this point for all operational functions. This type of diagnosis and repair is of two phases: the electrical and the pneumatic. The technician should be experienced in this manner of skill. One without prior MB experience can still perform service to the module in question: he will need the electrical and pneumatic blueprint. A person familiar with the problem can resolve it in less time.

A few caution:

* Do NOT replace the module. You will need MB hand-held tool to adapt the module to your vehicle.
* If you have to replace the module due to it being damaged beyond repair, additional steps are required to version-code it to your vehicle using the appropriate tools.
* Search for the schematics. I'm pretty sure you can get it online.

loteee: i totally agree with you. had the 06 facelift but sold it to my buddy and replaced with a well optioned 08 4.8. car is way ahead of any merc in terms of running costs, residual value and even maintenance. the X will out accelrate, outclass the merc anytime anyway. have driven the Q7, Touareg, ML, Porsche Cayenne turbo s, infinity fx and none comes close! bmw reigns.....others follow

-- quite frankly! I am wondering the Porsche you drove. In politeness and respect due, you don't make sense. I find it difficult to comprehend how a person got into a Porsche Turbo S, drove it, got out and concluded on a BMW X5 (even if you don't understand anything about cars). That Cayenne dials in and takes a set with extraordinary transient stability; a feat the X5 will not achieve even if you tune it. Under longitudinal acceleration under any given speed, the X5 is a laughing joke compared to how power is delivered under any given gear; and need I mention -- with ease. It's funny how you sat and did not observe the build of the vehicle. You cannot miss this. Everything is finesse, even as you track.

Maintenance wise: The Porsche was designed to be durable, the X5 is not. The Porsche goes on-road, off-road and on track and it does well on all three. It off-roads almost as the Range Rover would. Keep in mind that I did not compare it to the Range Rover Sport (which lacks to a degree the off-road agility of the normal Ranger).

Cost wise: "Everyone" has a BMW. People don't keep them. BMW pays for repairs in first ownership as warranty and when the lease is over, it's not worth it.

I never liked off-road vehicles. After the Turbo S, I made an exception and I recommend it to anyone that will listen on purchase choices. You will have to drive one to draw a conclusion. In my opinion, it is a 911 in another form-factor. It feels and handles like one plus it is comfortable. It took the 911's mannerisms. To date, I still wonder how Porsche made manifest of this. Porsche has always been about "mind-disturbing" innovations throughout the decades. The Cayenne is to be in the mid to late $100,000 but its affiliation with VW has helped to keep the price low without having to compromise. Years from now, you will not see the X5's on the road.


To debunk your claims wrt to the ML, let's examine performance stats.

2007 BMW X5 4.8i E70

Max speed 241 kph (149.42 mph)
0 - 100 kph 6.5 s
0 - 100 mph 16.0 s
1/8 mile 9.6 s @ 78 mph


2007 Mercedes ML 500

Max speed 250 kph (155 mph)
0 - 100 kph 6.0 s
0 - 100 mph 14.1 s
1/8 mile 9.2 s @ 79 mph


From the stats, in translation to the layman's understanding, approx. 2.5 car lengths and more in the 0-100 and a car length in the 1/8 test. The 6 cylinders were pitiful. The combustion technology are world apart.

For the rest of the vehicles you compared the BMW against, yields in return mere logic.

loteee: i have driven both cars but the X5 technology is light years ahead of the merc. i currently own the 06 X5 4.4(facelift) and it is bloody fast.better running cost, maintainance, residual value, better mileage on gas, its far better than the merc all round- no comparison! beats the touareg 4.2, floors the bulky Q7, no competition for the first gen!

There is no way a BMW is light-years ahead of a Merc. The only way this can be possible is from a layman's view coupled with emotions. You cannot prove this from a technological point of view. In addition to that, BMW is yet to make a V8 that is reliable; dependability at this point cannot be opinionated. Both companies are not competitors, nothing is run the same way and no auto company spends money as Mercedes does. I won't get on BMW for the mere simplicity of the question posed, but the composition of a BMW is not an alternative to any Mercedes Benz. By the way a BMW is not fully german. Many are half-german (I won't fuss with any one on that; take one apart and make draw your conclusions).

Examine combustion technology; many at this point will stumble because there is no inkling in this area. How well does it hold up over 100 mph after an extended period of time?! Chassis and how it all held in suspense; M Class is on another ball-game entirely. The X5 is unable to offroad - it isn't engineered for such and that leaves me to wonder how the price was justified. It doesn't handle well on-road (some of the 6 cylinders are known to fore-lift), it is not capabable of offroad. The M Class excels exceedingly well offroad, it is remarkable on road and you can track (close circuit) an M Class (no matter the variant) -- a mild trade-off across the board; three in one for your money. Occupancy protection is not a debate between the two.

Judge from an engineering point of view and not emotions. There is more to a vehicle than what you see. Zero-to-Sixty is all, 30 years from now, none of those BMW's will be on the road but you'll still see an ML of 1998 cruising effortlessly and engine running like new.

Will I buy an M Class? No! The M Class is of poor quality and the build is bad.

payless:
I was so surprised when I was taken to go check-out a 2003 Volkswagen Passat GLX with V8 Engine. Check the picture below:

payless:
What so you think about this V8 engine? What do you think about the fuel consumption? I intend to buy this car and send it to Nigeria.

It's a W8 and not a V8. Different rocking coupling; fundamentally different in design, manufacturing (space and cost) and reciprocation! This is the first I have seen without the 4motion (maybe it's debadged). Had a neighbour (a girl) that had this a few years ago. What caught my attention was the W8, 4motion and the quad-exhaust.

Your question on fuel consumption is ambiguous. If you are referring to the economy of cars of its size/class, you wouldn't getting that. However, you won't be getting what American cars yield. It's a limited production and I want to believe the engine is set-up for at least some measure of performance. If I am not wrong, it is very rare.

4llerbuntu:
kinda surprised. i do believe countless *nix based recovery tools or liveOS would have drivers to access and partition and do whatsoever u wanna with any drive whatsoever.

proper admin stuff is usually better done with unix tools. suggest u look into them to broaden your skills

Your approach of solving the problem will work because the problem is within the installed OS that HP has skimmed or "distilled." What is missing are the adequate "controllers" that is in every installed OS. If you wipe the entire hard drive via Live CD or with the help of another operating system, the job would be complete. This is likened to installing XP using the AHCI route. If you do not default to IDE, you will have to slipstream the appropriate SATA drivers into the install CD/media to be able to complete an XP installation on AHCI. There is a restore partition or restore CD and you will be routed to that option if anything goes wrong. Many would not buy a retail version of Windows. The unit I was dealing was a laptop and going through the experience made me leave it as-is. The HP bells-and-whistles the unit was bloated with was more of a concern to me than trying to find a way around it, plus there might be unknowns. So, the hardware is not the problem but the "castrated" OEM installation. I think the same goes to the HP tablets also (I had just one owner tell me that it is too restrictive).

Ekiti1:
best option.second best. Will def work if done wellu are quite right but I disagree wv u when u said it might nt work on recent hp laptops. (Oyibo to se pencil lo se eraser) i.e. The white that manufactures pencil also manufactures eraser. Give me the most recent hp hard drive & I will "hot swap" & recover the files, "partition & repartition" it. Talking from experience bro.

I understand where you are coming from and under normal circumstances, it is suppose to work. Unfortunately, I don't have the HP model of the laptop. The tool I was using to partition the hard drive is Paragon Hard Disk Manager. It worked but never completed. A maximum of 4 partitions is allowed per hard drive under MBR. There were only two and every attempt led to an unexpected end. I went on the HP support page and stumbled on one of the HP forums and there was an explanation that the unit is shipped without the adequate drivers to make a partition possible. The lists of drivers and their executables were on that page. I decided not to proceed any further. My only conclusion to this is that HP is trying to reduce warranty cost. If you've got a way to usurp this, I'll believe you but HP isn't worth it.

wopy:
Honourable Experts,

I need your advice! I'm planning to buy an 2005 ML 350. Do you know of any inherent mechanical problem with this model ? Cheers!!

The 272 engine was released in the Fall of 2006 for the 2007 year models. I'm not sure what model you are talking about. I'm not into offroad vehicles except the Cayenne, so I am limited in the M Class knowledge. I do know one fact, if you are referring to the 2005 M Class, Kuntash (on a broad scale) is right except the parts are not cheap. However, the 320's are known for balance shaft failures. The V8's should be sought for. The difference in miles per gallon is one. You can select between the lower or higher displaced engines. Same engine but stroked differently. According to Mercedes, there were 1500 revisions to that year's model and so far, it is the most reliable M Class between the first and second generation. I don't have much interest for Mercedes (though I talk about it here) as I did many years ago, so I can't talk on the newer M's.

HAH:
Hello trac

Am planning to buy MB e class 240,320 or350 from 2003 to 2006 models depending on their cost, kindly help me on each advantage and disadvantage, and the features I should look out for when buying in cotonou next month

Thank you as expect your response

It hard being blunt but I'll recommend that the first generation 211 should be avoided for the sole purpose of the warranty of the SBC that will expire two years from now.

It is hard getting rid of a first generation 211 especially the 2003 models. They are readily available and very cheap to purchase. Many of them are low miles. There are lots of electrical gremlins, quality issues and lots of repairs to be done. It is an experience on its own because reliability is very poor. I'll expand a bit on three major issues with the first generation 211.


Sadly, there aren't much cues that you can watch out for.

Avoid the models with panoramic roofs. Watch for leaks and motor ticks. The roof is not maintenance-free.

Brakes are awesome. But at any time without warning, you can get the stop sign signal with the "Brake Defective Stop Vehicle" alert or "Reduced Braking Power." This has to do with failure of the sensotronic brake system (SBC) and if you are in motion, the ECU will engine-brake as it downshifts the vehicle. The technical documentation states you will have some braking capabilities when failure occurs but from experiences of owners, there were no braking capabilities. There are lots of mixed opinions about the unproven braking system. The SBC setup has a cycle count of operation (320,000 or something in that figure) to prevent it from wear. Once the count is reached, the system shuts down and you get the failure or reduced braking error. The SBC pump at this point will have to be replaced. Currently, MB will replace it at their own cost till 2014 or 2016. Cost of replacement in parts are in thousands of dollars. Mercedes discontinued the SBC system when the model was refreshed.

The airmatic suspension, though magnificent fails without symptoms or warning (irrespective of time). It's either in the inflated state (which is a pump resistor failure) or in the collapsed state (reservoir bag leak). It's very expensive replacing each strut. You will have the suspension indicator light come on when any of the four fails.

Failure timing chain sprocket for the balance shaft due to design and materials defect. You don't have to be a spirited-driver, the failure still occurs. Ironically, when the failure is in progress, you get a different error failure message and the root cause is never addressed but a system reset. This is the biggest issue with the V6's and the V8's. It is a very expensive overhaul and currently, there is a class-action lawsuit in effect. Mercedes is not taking responsibility for the defect.

I don't know if this is your first Mercedes or you've had several that are older. This is far from the Mercedes Benz you've always known. These are the serious major problems. The other problems that you will encounter will be due to the fact that it is very advanced in technology and it's toys and sensors. The ECU is very unforgiving and would demand the problems be fixed. It is getting old and problems arising from age will start occurring.

Techwhiz:
Hello Friend,

Does the Operating System on the laptop still boot up? If it does, you can simply copy out your files with a flash disk or external harddisk, then reformat the system. If the Operating system is corrupt already and doesnt boot, then try a one-time boot utility to enable you access your harddrive to copy your files. The easiest for you try is the ubuntu Linux Live CD, it will boot up your PC without installing the OS or modifying your PC and you can copy your files. Remember to install an effective antivirus software when you're done reformatting and scan the backup drive before transferring the files back to your laptop.

This is the best and most effective (one size fits all).

To the rest of the solutions, the information is too limited to draw a hot-swapping conclusion.  The OP said an engineer examined it and his conclusions were to reformat it. Don't think the person that examined it is totally unaware of a hot-swap.  We cannot query that conclusion unless more information has been given but we can give an "out-of-the-box" alternative.   There has been no query to figure if it's a laptop or desktop.  Is it worth dismantling a laptop for a hot-swap?  If it is a recent HP laptop, this method may not work.  This is not out of nowhere but personal experience.  Recent HP units cannot be repartitioned (to tell you the extent of limit HP put on their units to save cost on warranty).  Most people term anything malicious as virus.  The attack may not be a virus.  We do not know the functions within the parameters of this malicious script.  All we know is that something is wrong and it is working as it is not intended.  An antivirus will only protect you from yesterday's discovery; not tomorrow.  If the OP doesn't have a virus but something else, an antivirus is of no use.

If the unit boots up, a liveCD is the most appropriate.  OS runs off through disc/USB & RAM and the non-executables can be sifted.  The tree-like structure of the Unix environment will not permit anything malware to execute and multiply.  Flush the OS and reinstall when done.

kuntash:
aight Trac,

I got my mechanic to work on the fuel lines ystydy , he started with the injector nozzles, removed them and noticed the four nozzles spray fuel @ the same time.

He said this was wrong that they out to spray in sequence, as in- 1 & 4 then 2 & 3, just as the cylinder goes up and down.

he said its most likely to be my wire harness, since the engine wire harness is diff from what is currently there, (I used the old wire for the new engine)

it was late ystdy, so we couldnt get another wire harness to check it out, hopefully would do that in then next 2hrs. and I would update accordingly.

thanks for your help

You are welcome. We all learn something new everyday.

Did you replace the ECU as well? The old engine might have a different ECU mapping than the transplanted engine.

cool2mine:
@I need to buy ORIGINAL top gasket for a mercedes benz 320 ML. 2002 MODEL.
THANKS

Why? How did you about this conclusion?

If you indeed need a headgasket job (of which I believe you don't), the headgasket isn't the only thing you need. The MB seal itself is another "constant" you will need. Anything besides this sealant, you are redoing the job in about a year or two. I will not go into details on what is to be done but there will be some machining also. There are lots of "variables."

Except you have driven without "water" for a period of time, you cannot blow a headgasket in an MB engine. The square MB engines were notorious for headgasket issues but the gaskets never blew. You engine is not a square engine, your generation is not known for such an issue. The engines are pretty much built as tight to design tolerance as it could. What happens to one engine under normal operating circumstance would happen to the vast majority.

Why do you need such a repair? What are your symptoms?

kuntash:
thanks alot Trac,

I have an Auto transmission,

its like I have seen seafoam advertised somewhere here on NL,

Kuntash,

I will recommend all three. For your intake, the aerosol type is what you should use. Leave the liquid to the professionals. Aerosol takes just two minutes to transfer through one of the vacuums lines hijacked from a sensor that is Y splits to the pressure sensor and the resonance flap. This is the only way I was able to do it without a check engine light and I did not uninstall anything besides removing a vacuum tube. It was windy and cold and I got a slight headache after the application. I got little smoke but my fuel pump is louder than my engine at idle and engine is barely audible when I wide-open the throttle. It's also willing to sprint and the delivery of power is very smooth.

My reason for asking your gear type is that you might have to add some vacuum pressure to the transmission lines to smoothing out the shifting. It might shift harder after seafoaming. If you are happy with the shifting, then leave all as-is. The car will need to be on a lift.

kuntash:
I cleaned the throttle body on Saturday, there was a little improvement,  I did 83miles with 16 litres ( about 19mpg) pls correct me if I am wrong in my calculation,

to me, this is still high, because I have attained 23mpg with that car b4, I am worried what could be the problem,

Trac, here are my suspicions.


Could the fuel pump be loosing power -( response is seldom, not as quick)

could there be excessive fuel sprayed in the cylinder chamber not necessarily needed?

could absence of catalytic converter on the exhaust line send signal to the ECU for more fuel to be pumped?

and Lastly, could the oxygen sensor be the culprit ?

I am worried, cos I hate waste,  and moreso, there is no fuel subsidy in the country's budget for 2012, 

From what I hand-calculated, 11.9782L/100Km is what I came about.  That came up to 23.5428mi/gl - which in everyway manipulated is very poor save for heavy city traffic.  Your tank is bigger than what 'we' have in America.  Miles and litres cannot go in unity because the standards are not in agreement.  So, the miles (83 mi) have to be converted to kilometres (133.5756ki) via 1mi = 1.609ki to get the exact gas consumption.  Litres/100Kilometres is the best standard we can use because it is as explicit as the numbers are plus it is the imperial standard.  You should be returning about 7 or 8L/100Km.

You will run rich if you are using too much fuel and less air.  The waste from the exhaust would be more than enough warning that something needs to be done.

To answer your questions:

1.  The fuel pump is not failing.  A mechanical whine should be heard shortly before the engine cranks.  The pumps primes the tank to 50psi and signals back to the OVP that a condition has been met.  If you have a bad bad fuel pump, it would be "snarling" (sort of) mechanically.  Engine too will stumble but will start again after reignition.  When you make a sharp-left/right turn, engine will stumble.  This is in all Mercedes engines going far back as the 70's.

2.  The ECU would not let that happen.  It will shut the cylinder down to prevent the catalytic converter from damage. 

3.  There is no such communication arrangement.  The cats can be clogged and driveability will be weak.  I can't tell you much about the removal of the catalytic converter on a Mercedes but I can assure you that isn't anything to do with what you are going through.

4.  Oxygen sensor?!  Good question!  I never had to change an oxygen sensor on any of my four cars.  Don't take this as gospel from me but I do the electronic and computer system service, ignition systems and emissions control system service and a few mechanical problems all my self since 2004.  I never had a need to go there.  Somebody else will have to shed light on this to you.  I do things differently also, I change my oil every 15 - 18 months.


I edited the last thread I posted.  It was better if it were short than lengthy.  I was averaging two miles to a gallon.  After stabilising the gas chamber and the crankcase all returned to normal.  I am yet to decarbonise it because I don't have a place to puff out the exhaust.  I merely put on 3000 miles this year on it and gas consumption was heavy so I let it sit till december.  Driveability has returned.  This is what I am trying to pass on to you.  The water that came out of my exhaust was alarming.  It was a huge puddle on the floor plus the stream.  Everything is normal at this point and I use less effort to drive and engine is barely audible in the cabin.


This is completely inexpensive.  Now, you have a knock (which is totally abnormal).  After all you have done, decarbonising your rails & crankcase as cleaning your fuel tank is very appropriate.  The fuel in the United States is poor in grade and I am sure that is how water got into my tank.  After this procedure, deductive reasoning can be applied.  You may not have to do anything else.  I'll probably just hint you on how to readjust your engine setup.

Do you have an automatic or manual transmission setup?


nb: Decarbonising is basing cleaning gunk and carbon buildup from your engine and injectors.  Also, lubricating your engine and the fuel loop.  You should use nothing but seafoam in a Mercedes engine.  I cannot speak for B12 and I have never used it.  It is supposedly older than seafoam but seafoam is what I have used always.  Thankfully now, there is the aerosol type (if you need to use it in the vacuum line).  You will need 3 or 4 cans.  One for the crankcase, the second for the fuel chamber, the third for the vacuum line or intake line and the fourth, 1/3 of a pint as you drain the oil.  There are horror stories from those who used other products.


Don't rush to spend any unneeded money.  I do not like waste as well. You've gone a long way also, the throttle body is just one of the members to address. The method I have alerting you to would be thorough than the bits here-&-there.  This should be the first step in treating this.   This is NL.  If you cannot find seafoam, raise the awareness here.  I believe Nigerians drive diesels too.  The generators are diesels too.  I'll assist you with this.  After purging your engine, some reset might have to be done.  Please let me know if you have an automatic or not.

Cheers!

Kuntash,

Before you spend anything "serious," inspect the spark plugs.  You might have to change it.  Never buy into the nonsense that plugs last 100,000 miles.  Plugs should be the +1 or +2 heat range plug.  No Mercedes engine would run well on fancy plugs (two or four prong plugs).

Decarbonise the engine.  This should go a long way to the mileage result you are getting in gas consumption. 

Examine the engine mounts.

If this still remains, a mechanic should examine it.