₦airaland Forum

You must be willing to pay 100x current cost then.

**Don't service that car again.

1. Any visible signs of oil spills over the engine area?
Valve cover, crankshaft and the flywheel oil seals, the sump, and finally, the VVTi solenoid?
These areas are notorious for leaks, when the seals are failing.

2. From your symptoms, it appears you've problems with your piston rings.
This problem is common with the 2AZ-FE Camry engines.


Final solution?
1. Rebuild that engine with genuine parts totally.
It would come back to new.

2. Replaced the engine, if you don't want to rebuild it.
Its a 50/50 thing though, since you are not privy to the history or state of the engine you're buying, in Nigeria.
It isn't like in the USA, where you've engines with their history tags embedded on them in any junkyards.


Just in case you decide to consider the first option, do give me a call.



Regards,
Joseph (08066643532)
DW Nig Ltd,
Isolo,
Lagos

I feel your pains here. This is absolutely wrong of you to have being replacing those parts, without any commensurate results.
Y not get the car scanned first?!

Is there no check engine light lit on the dash?
There's no way radiator, or...can caused your car not to start.

As someone here stated, try the starter relay, and see what happens.
I think the terminology he used might be different.

I have seen such Honda cars stalls or refusing to start, because of a failing fuel pump relay located just by the kick panel of the car.





Regards,
Joseph (08066643532)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo,
Lagos

@Urosi. I'm do sorry, I thought I uploaded them in the previous page?
Would try and see.

@Urosi. I'm do sorry, I thought I uploaded them in the previous page? Would try and see.

Won't tear your pockets. Just make sure the battery isn't problematic before importing the car from North America.

I don't think a 2020 hybrid vehicle, would have issues so quick. But again, this would depends on, the state/condition of the car, at the time of purchase.

Run Carfax checks over there; do a physical inspections of the car, if you or your trusted agent/specialists inspections centres over there can do it.

Finally, such a car would take longer time to start breaking down, if the car you're buying isn't/wasn't an accident one.

Can you cope with the time frames involved just in case your car is being worked on in a shop?

Do you have another car as a supporting one just in case?

1. Asks your mechanic to tests the ignition coils on the car first.
This he or you can do, by unplugging the connectors attached to the coils one after the other, and see how the vehicle behaves.

2. Check all the spark plugs on that car. Replaced them with new ones, if they are worn out.
Sometimes, the spark plugs could be fouled from carbon deposits, or leaking engine Oil from the car's piston rings, or valve cover runner seals.

3. If after replacing the spark plugs, and the ignition coils, the next step would be to get your fuel injectors serviced, using carb cleaner.

4. After you're done with the job, have the codes erased from the ECU, using a code reader, or disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, for say, ~5min. That should clear all the error codes from the ECU of the car.


Hoping this info helps you fix that car.



Regards,
Joseph(08066643532)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo,
Lagos

I think the choice of the vehicle you'd go for, is dependent on, 1) your pockets, 2)what exactly you want, and for what purpose; 3) the technical expertise available at your disposal, and finally, 4) is the corolla hybrid you're considering a used one, or?(sorry for my ignorance here maybe).

If the corolla is a brand new one, then, you don't have issues, for a LONG......TIME!

The costs of purchasing the car, would pay for itself, in a short time, in terms of fuel savings, and profits maximization, if you intend to use it for Uber, etc.

But if its a used one, ensured the health of that traction battery is absolutely perfect.

If you can sort out the above, then the choice of what to buy, won't be complex for you.

For the conventional corolla, that MPG, is perfect, as compared to some cars on the road these days.

Parts are available everywhere, easy to maintain, and almost every mechanic you see around, can handle it.

Could you pls indicate what you intend to use either of the vehicles for?



Regards,
Joseph

Scanning that car first and foremost is what would unraveled what the CEL, etc means. Being desperate would lead you yo hiring people that would make you unnecessarily throw money at parts.

I don't see anything wrong with this car.

1. the A/T being lit could be that the transmission fluid on that car is low, leading yo that transmission system getting heated up.
It could be when your guys replaced the driveshaft, some quantity of fluids were lost.
Have that checked.

Alternatively, since did said the light comes on only when you go through bumps, that tells me it might be related to a loose connector on the transmission system on the outside of it.

Can your electrician check the harness on the transmission system if any has being mistakenly unplugged?

2. loss of power is related yo the crankshaft sensor code, and not the fuel pump.

Here's what you do:
Clear those codes, and immediately drive. Any improvements in power, tells you where the problem is already.

Always be observant as you drive the car, and take note when that code comes on, and if you loose any power.

Don't just abruptly start replacing the crankshaft sensor, without checking the wiring, and its connectors properly.

Replaced the sensor as a last resort.


3. For the thermostat related code, its because the car's thermostat has being removed by those guys, and the fan right now, runs with KOI(key on ignition), which is wrong.

That's the reason for the code coming on.


4. The o2s code might be due to wiring on the o2s circuitry, etc.
Don't replaced the sensor yet.
Have everything checked before doing so.

5. DON'T REPLACED THE FUEL PUMP YET. NOT NECESSARY.


Hope pieces of advice helps you resolved your issues.





Regards,
Joseph (08066643532)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo,
Lagos

I did respond to your inputs on the other thread.
https://www.nairaland.com/5267830/hybrid-electric-vehicles-careful-where

@hvjohn. What's the subcode of the p3000 you got? Has the car being fixed already?

@stalionnotch. Peculiar problems you may expect generally with the Camry hybrid, depending on the age, and mileage of the car, would be first and foremost, the hybrid battery, and followed by properly the ABS actuator.
The inverters on hybrid vehicles are solidly reliable and durable. They rarely fail!
Pros of the vehicle is the 1) performance surpasses the conventional Camry, due to the added electric motors that provides torque to the vehicle; 2) you save a whole lot in fuels and the environment, if you're a climate change enthusiast. 3) you don't have issues with replacing power steering fluids etc.
.
.
.
the cons are just that if the vehicle breaks down, especially maybe the inverter pump, battery, the electric AC compressor, etc, the costs of replacing them might get to you(your pocket I mean). But if you have another car, while your hybrid car is being maintained, you won't feel the urged to want the car so quick, but would allowed your technician to concentrate and fix it.

Ensure you allowed only qualified hybrid vehicle personnel's to work on the car, especially the rear brakes are not to be bled or worked on as a normal conventional brake systems we've around (hydraulic systems only).

When buying a Nigerian used one, be extremely careful. We've got a lot of those vehicles around with dead batteries, abs actuators, etc.

Don't buy anyone with check engine light, check hybrid system, VSC, etc lights lit on the dashboard.

Go with your hybrid tech. He'd helped you check emmm out before you make NY commitments.

There are a lot yo look out for though.

Here's an article I wrote some years ago.

https://www.nairaland.com/3461737/now-youve-gotten-hybrid-car

Hope this piece of advice helps you make. better decision.



Regards,
Joseph

There won't be issues, if you switched back to the synthetic. Where I'd be concerned is the state of the engine internals presently. If your car is a high mileage one, which translates to gradual engine wear and tear already, I bet you, using that oil, might cause seal leaks(oil shortages). But if you insists using the synthetic, buy a high mileage synthetic oil. I think Mobil1 has them.




Regards,
Joseph (08066643532)
DW Nig Ltd,
Aswani, Isolo

Gazzuzz! my wrong here then, if I only skimmed your stuffs, and concluded otherwise.

You did called me as regards the problems you were encountering on that car, and the codes you retrieved.

You asked what was the way forward, and how do I usually fix such problems?

I responded by saying, the code depicts a problem with any k the hybrid system components, usually, the battery compartment.
Told you what to look out for, and all that.

I even suggested, if you can't handle it, can you tow the car down to my base? you said no!

So now, how was my response to you not helpful here?

Like I always say, this market is soooo huge.
No one person can fill up all the repair "voids" on here.

I know the competition is very stiff out there.
But you do realised that, WE ALL NEED ONE ANOTHER TO ACHIEVE A SET GOAL?!
Its that easy.
That's the mentality I possess.


PS: It appears to me, ever since, that we kind of have a "government and cabinet" of some sort on NL.
I sometimes look at the trends when an opinion from other persons are at odds with the established "government", it looks like some form of state of emergency is always declared, with " yan hisba" implementing such policies.

Let's be aware pls that this is a public forum, and perhaps foreigners might be on here, surprised at our lack of acceptance of criticism (+ve or not).

Regards,
Joseph

Take it easy guys!
@gazzuzz. this is just my contributions or opinions. it's not something so hard na haba.
I needed to contribute to the thread that's all. its as of I'm... You kinda like taking it out of context here.

Absolutely a nice thread.
Some pointers here:
1. this would be a great learning curve for you.
understand it isn't a straight line stuff though.
2. there are absolutely great differences between the Transformer based and other...charging systems.
3. seeing the battery module you've got displayed, it pretty much seems you got that from Ladipo?!
4. at what current inputs did you "pump" the modules while you guys were charging them?
5. charging the battery pack, without such parameters in mind, such as how you take care of heat generation during charging, would only deteriorate the packs, and eventually destroy them.

6. in Nigeria, people aren't just patient. especially hybrid vehicle owners.

7. rebuilding such batteries, practically, takes more than a week, if you've got the right gridchargers, and some intelligent ones too.
those chargers are all over the place online.
some of my battery rebuilds, takes about a month to fully bring them to state of health necessary for sustainability.

8. so if you're looking at a reliable and sustainable battery pack "repair", you got to get a new pack, or go the rebuilding way, as I do sometimes (but you got to follow established protocols to get desired results).

9. the Ladipo guys are specialist in doing what I called, " replacement and go job". they don't bother or care what the procedures or protocols are, in charging such battery chemistries.
for them, as long as the car initially is functional, after a battery boost, then its fine. afterwards, you're on your own!


10. what do you mean by "bypassing the brake"?
are you literally saying you disabled the electronics part of the EBS, and now have the brakes totally working via the hydraulic loops only?



PS:
You must LOAD TEST ALL MODULE PAIRS IN THE BLOCKS.
TESTING WITH A DIGITAL METER ALONE, FOR VOLTAGES WONT GIVE YOU A BETTER RESULT.


Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd(08066643532)
Isolo,
Lagos

You just sent pictures without any inputs to the questions I asked.

We're gradually heading closer. Before the accident, has the lights always being lit on the dash? If yes, you got to work backwards on the repairs done after the accident. However, a scan would still be needed, if nothing was found after the checks.

As long as it's already blinking, and not solidly lit on the dash yet, tells you there's a problem already with the car. Blinking lights, especially those, would begin by that blinking, warning you, before it develops into a hardcore(where the lights stays on)

In some cases, it does not tell you it's bad, according to your question.
To avoid doubts, a scam, would narrow down the causes.
1. did you work on the wheels recently, like replacement of spare tyres, or any mechanical job embarked on any of the wheels?

2. are there any other warning lights lit on the dash?
3. does the VSC and brake lights stays solid on, or it comes on intermittently under certain conditions?






Regards,
Joseph (08066643532)
DW Nig Ltd
Aswani,
Isolo

You need to get the car scanned for trouble codes.

Blue smoke sure does suggests your engine is BURNING oil. I mean, the engine oil in the engine.

1.What's the mileage on that "babe" pls?
2. What sort of engine oil do you used for oil change?
3. What has being done on the car, after observing this?

Few solutions here:
1. Check to see if your car's PCV(positive crankcase ventilation) hose/valve is functional.
If its bad, excessive engine goes straight into the combustion chambers, and burns.

2. You might be having a BLOWBY, via the piston ring oil rings.
Worn out piston rings would cause this phenomenon.
Solution: Replace engine if you're financially buoyant, or rebuild the engine.


Pls do keep the house posted on your progress.



Regards,
Joseph (08066643532)
DW Nig Ltd
www.dxta.com.ng
Isolo,
Lagos

1. Weren't there malfunction lights lit on the dashboard before all these, or you just decided to take the shorter way?
You should have scanned that car first, before any parts replacement.

2. The exhaust making that noise is just because of the engine speed is extremely low(might be even below 400rpm).

3. The problem of the car, from your descriptions, could be stemming from from the MAF/MAF sensors all incorporated on the throttle assembly (that's what I think might be causing the exhaust black smokes, and probably idling issues).
Note on Honda brands, the MAF isn't on the intake plumbing as on other brands.
You either replace the throttle assembly completely, or replaced the sensors concerned.

4. For the lack of idling on that car, replace the IDLE AIR CONTROL SENSOR(OR SWITCH). Its attached to the throttle assembly. Has some sort of torx screw head on it.
Sometimes when its filled with carbon deposits, you've such problems.

5. Finally, wiring issues could affect it your idling true.

6. Try the vacuum checks as suggested by someone here first before replacing parts.

7. There's no way, those injector nozzles could have failed at the same to e, and caused the excessive fuel consumption problem at first.

8. Do keep us posted on your progress pls

Regards,
Joseph(08066643532)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo, Lagos

I intend to get some rectangular see through casing, which I'd modify to that shape.
I'd use some sort of flux or so used on some circuit boards to prevent corrosion of the components.
I'm yet to decide on what type for now.
Pls if you do have an idea, do drop one. I'd really appreciate.

@bigkendo. Thanks for pointing out that error in there.

Those are the LEDs arranged on the fretboard

I got it lit up with some DC power source now.
I like the brightness.

This is how it would be at night, when I put on the parking light, or day running lights.

I intend to incorporate a fuse inline the circuit as a separate adds on, asides the parking light switch.

It would be cool if a toggle switch is used for the ON/OFF function.

Everything is just possible with LEDs.

Getting set to bench test it on .y worktable