₦airaland Forum

Darlinx01:
Guys plz eh if i open a dispute, will i get refunded with the current dollar-naira rate or the rate i used to order?
@ jboixx
@ carmal90
@ everybody wey dn open dispute during this corona

microgiant:
I believe it should have, my search on google showed it among the least power guzzlers in test done

55" 4K UHD Smart TV | TCL C6 Series |
I read it is more energy efficient than the previous C5 series.

What can you deduce from this specs

Power Consumption (TV On) 140W
Power Consumption (Standby) ﹤0.5W
ECO Energy Efficiency Yes
Backlight Adjustable Yes (0~100%)

It is the cheapest, others - Sony and Samsung are between 30% - 50% higher in price

Also TV is on J U M I A so going with a watt meter to test is not possible.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Most properly designed MPPT CCs allow some degree of oversizing the PV array. This capability is not uniformly implemented amongst CCs e.g with EP Solar CCs there is a calculation that caps you at a certain size relative to battery voltage or such. With a MorningStar, you can actually oversize nearly infinitely. I have oversized 200% + with no trouble but at some point it becomes inefficient to keep adding more panels.

One thing I can tell you from experience is that the CC will run much hotter when you oversize and you are advised to incorporate a cooling fan or AC to preserve CC lifespan and performance (avoid CC limiting current when running too hot)

I currently have a 7.7Kw array on a Victron MPPT 250v/100A - effectively oversizing by more than 25%. The CC runs very much hotter than its brethren so I added external cooling.

Worthy of note also is the tolerance for errors reduces with an oversized array -- apart from VoC you should never exceed the CC's max short circuit current limit. If you do then you better, have connected things the right way around (no reverse polarity mistakes or battery disconnects at high wattage charging) else you will surely fry the CC and make a sweet smelling burnt offering to the Sun Goddess to atone for the error of your ways

Cogs:
So, this is the end of all the stupid Instagram Gucci wealth?

This guy has honestly made a lot of legitimate hustlers to lose focus and drive.

I hope this opens other people's eye to know that not all that glitter is gold. Many of those people you see and admire on Instagram, are jst another Hushpuppi not yet caught.

Everyday for the thief, one day for the owner. I hope it makes more sense to you now!

meum:
U suffocate the eggs na.
The egg(s) be like "I can't breath"

ojeysky:
My current felicity is 1.5kw but my array is 250w X 9 (3s3p) so you should be fine. Just make sure not to exceed the voltage rating of the CC.

essegis:
You know its DIY when na kpako we use hang home made bussbars

See wetin COVID-19 do a brother.

shagking:
5 X 4

shagking:
How many do pieces you want? I sent you PM but got no response

ojtech8291:
Good Morning, everyone. New Bank of 24V200AH not reaching float with 24v1.25kVa inverter and charging current of 40A for 5 hours. Please help.

mctfopt:
The first one has the features that I want. The latter is too complex for the application I want when compared to the former.

mctfopt:
I can only hope it can survive an air-conditioner constantly plugged in. Chinese and their fake specification are like 5&6. I see the 15A rating, but can it really survive that current is another story.

mctfopt:
This one you are using the alternate, have the bot bandit struck again?

Ismaxtr3:
Pls I need your guidance. I saw a cheap 40 inches ITEC TV on Konga and I want to buy it. Pls is the TV a good buy and hope I won't have issues with it?

mctfopt:
Weirdly enough I opened dispute and won. Tried to reach seller when I got the product and store is no longer in existence

ojeysky:
Not entirely plug and play, took about an hour of putting things apart and coupling back.

mctfopt:
Picked the one I bought in February last week.

Monlo:
Ummmm,the thing tire me oooooo........
What I ordered in Late February 2020 is yet to enter Nigeria,in-transit between both countries because I used AE standard shipping.
Funnily enough,the 24v 3000watts inverter am currently using now was shipped using DHL in June 2020,got delivered in less than a week.
God help us.

ojeysky:
I keep mixing it mine is the thermocool inverter AC maybe that's the one called gencool. I also have the conventional AC which I got before the inverter one unfortunately



Yes o... Would have been a more interesting experience, the board just got in today and I don couple ham chap chap tested working. Now I have to find time to hock it back to my system

jboixxx:
[color=#0000ff]That's the norm! One of the first user coupons is more like a fluke cuz that order will always be closed.

[/color]

ojeysky:
Right that's very correct which is what @mcTrinity was saying as well. I didn't mention the start up as that was not the aspect I was intending to address but yes those "inverter" setups are much better. My fridge could pull as much as 500w on initial, the freezer and AC are more notorious. I certainly can't see any reason why I will get a non-inveter AC going forward after experiencing a GenPal.

ojeysky:
Now that my GK replacement boards has arrived and confirmed operational I can now plan for another energy saving gear in near future. Maybe the inverter fridge (with freezer). This energy sufficiency na fun journey o, but account balance no dey smile.

Saipro:
The itch is real. If it's any solace, you are not alone.

mcTrinity:
Attached is the data for the TV... Go with a watt meter when you want to goan buy, e get why!

For the bolded, kindly check up... I've posted the model and pictures earlier.

Cheers

Barezzi:
If the bar dey and you no dey owe, plus a sizeable investment nest egg, then by all means splurge!
I get DIY Lithium in my gunsight

You only live once baba.

Trippledots:
Won't a soft start circuit solve this for conventional inductive loads with high inrush current at start up?...it may just be more economical to get a soft starter and use with conventional inductive loads.

Except of course to upgrade is higher in priority sha.

mank1234:
What's the name and model of the 65 inch A++ television. I can go for the 55 inch of it. Thanks in advance.

mank1234:
What's the name and model of the 65 inch A++ television. I can go for the 55 inch of it. Thanks in advance.

iKingsley:
could you imagine, seller wants to refund me 214usd instead of 229 for my lost package

mcTrinity:
Lolz.... It depends on the TV ooo. I have a 32" 55W TV that consumes 18W at Eco mode.

However, attached are 3 different pics for my inverter fridge consumption, after running for certain hours..

mcTrinity:
Hi Ojeysky,

To an extent, yes.... But there are wide differences.
I used to have a Table-Top (student) fridge rated 75W. Every single time the fridge is starting, it pulls around 800/900W...not kidding. Even my 1.5KVA/24V Mopower Inverter beeps. I've run it for over 10hrs,yet it kicks in at over 500W...

My present Inverter fridge cruises from around 20W and gradually reaches the 78W max. It starts coming down after like 5-12hrs. Stabilizes at around 30W after 14hrs.

For the bolded, that's the whole point. Why would it lose power, if you're looking at inverter fridge? With inverter fridge, it's best to run it 24/7. The only periods I cut off power is when there's rain and it comes with Lightning and thunder. I usually do a total isolation of my inverter system, since the house I'm staying doesn't have either a Lightning/thunder arrestor or even grounding for me to use a SPD.
Even if the power loss lasts for about 3hrs, after powering the fridge back, it doesn't go above 55W and within 1hr, it stabilizes back to around 30W...

ojeysky:
But isn't this the behaviour of normal fridge as well? It does seem to be the behaviour of my over a decade old thermocool fridge. By the way I don't think the power will remain low if the fridge losses power for a significant period of time. I think it also depends on the environmental temperature set on the fridge.

mcTrinity:
You're right earthrealm... Same observation with mine. After recently upgrading my system, I left my inverter fridge (rated 55W) permanently ON, through a socket-plug energy meter...

Initially consumes around 78W.... After like 12hrs, it drops to 55W... After 14hrs,it drops to 32W.... And further drops to 30W after 15hrs.

Even when it knocks off, when it comes back On, it stays at 30W. And that's where it has been since.. Just hovering around 30W. Sometimes 28W.

There were very few times though, I've noticed the fridge would be On, due to the compressor sound, but the meter is reading less than 10W...

But before the upgrade, I run it from 8am to around 6pm.... Always runs around 78W-62W.

So,yeah... Inverter fridges are best left permanently ON