₦airaland Forum

HDF is more expensive than MDF.

HDF is not the same as MDF.

End of story.

I am currently building a global security operations center (GSOC) and have bought quite a number of MDFs, I made inquiries about HDF but opted not to buy

NiyiOmoIyunade:
For about thesame cash outlay, Victron is more robust, has better support for a large variety of Lithium batteries, has a lot more features and nearly infinite programmability, and has far better design (the product design shows superior understanding of how an inverter and ancillaries should operate and integrate)

You should check out the Victron offerings and we can compare notes

Will do and post my findings.

I have been thinking about them though, with this push, I will do a side-by-side comparison

My new toy



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLg73R7IY4s&ab_channel=TashaNyam



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhsPq1qZY9A


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtJv1n_IB9E&t=10s

KolaShangOne:
I understand. I have a fair picture in my mind.

The way yoy want to do it is the standard practice. Instead of gravel base, it's even supposed to be hardware base. Then the DPM and wire mesh before the DPC.

But because of the cost of the process, sometimes people take shortcuts.

This your Engineer that said you should just put sand bed and tile it, I'm sure he's from Benin. I've seen funny construction in that place.. I hope you verified his certificate?

I remember cutting down an estimate from a Benin Engineer by about 40% and he was shouting that the house would collapse. He had even done foundation without oversize concrete.

This guy is a real engineer, he came to my house earlier this year to use my uninterrupted power/internet to defend his certifications so that he could be chartered.

It took two days as after spending the whole of the first day, it was postponed and actual held the second day.

Engineers should understand, they do it over zoom now, they used to do in person before.

I am happy to learn from you too. I can see you have added more information.

toyeoye:
Awesome, I truly appreciate your time and support bro. I intend to setup 5.5kva although I currently have a 1kva setup for CCTV and floodlights only. I hope it's okay to "consult" you as I progress with the project.

Thanks again

Interesting, I am targeting 8KVA next.

Here is what I found, Schneider is expensive the higher you go.

I found Deye to be much cheaper, but I haven't decided to go that route.

Let's just say I am in love with Schneider.

If you are going for that capacity, I think a 48v system is the way to go.

But I am an enthusiast and not a professional, I am sure they will chip in.

PrimeQuay:
I think most of these practices in the Video posted are mostly adopted in commercial builds in which water rising up has been considered from the beginning.

For some it is an after thought when the problem has already set in. it is not a usual practice to put this many preventive layers. The mould/damp shows up years after building is complete when builder has left, owner has sold the building.

You may have a point, I have no access to data to prove it or disprove your assertions.

However, after studying several videos of the same guy and others that I have not posted, I have come to the conclusion that he applied those strategies to homes he built for homeowners.

In one of his videos, he made it clear that it all started with a lawsuit, not one, but an avalanche of lawsuits when mold started appearing in some houses he built some 15 years ago.

Maybe Nigerian homeowners need to start suing their building contractors for change to happen locally.

His response was to ask the question why did this happen to my build, his second response was what can I do differently to stop homeowners from taking me to court over the house or houses I built for them?

Over time that research has paid up, he builds houses that aim to last for hundreds of years and has been able to charge far more than other builders because of the name and reputation he has built over time.

I agree with your last sentence.

Because of profit considerations on the part of the builder or budget considerations on the part of the homeowner, we build houses that will fail in 5 to 10 years, the house I am fixing is 12 years old, but the problems showed up since year 1 after the house was built.

There is no person better placed to prevent this than the builder

There is no time better suited to fix this than at the stage of setting out the foundation.

It has been universally acknowledged that the foundation if done wrong is one of the most difficult if not the most difficult part of the house to correct.

So why go ahead and build the normal way and then use tiles to mask the problem afterward?

The mold is still there

And there are serious health implications to mold growth in the home

His other driving force is that he has an asthmatic child and he applied these strategies to ensure a safe home environment, something I can relate to as I watched my sister suffer from the damp house I am remodeling. That's another reason why I am so passionate about this issue.

Something about personal suffering or seeing a loved one suffer and vowing to do anything and everything to help

hamtabfawaz:
Thanks for this video✓

A few things I learned.

It does not and cannot cost a fortune to build a house that doesn't have water affecting the floor or the walls.

If you loved that video, then you will appreciate this one too.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUdRGZm8zo4

You will spend a bit more, but most of those who give contractors buildings to build can afford these additions.

The fault lies with the contractors refusing or neglecting to do R& to improve building practices as it is done elsewhere.

The fault might also lie with those who give out the contractors in not reading up or hiring other consultants to help them determine if their contractor is doing the right thing.

The fault might also lie in depending on our building codes alone for guidance instead of copying best practices from elsewhere - by that I mean, meeting the standards of our building codes, but exceeding them in the interest of the client and their own professional integrity.

That said there are houses being built in Nigeria, and I have been to a few that do not have problems with water and mold - not the house and not the fence. There must be something different that those guys are doing that ensures that never happens.

KolaShangOne:
Just like the way water damaged the sheetrock in the video.. we also had water damaging the plasterboard here..

We have tried a solution and within the next 2 weeks, I'll be sure if it works or not.

After watching this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwn0Vjw_ji0

and also this other video, I perfectly understood why we have those problems with houses in Nigeria


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKp0wRzvR-g

This time around, unlike the last time that I worked with the walls above the ground, this time around, I am excavating the foundation of the house and rebuilding it.

I am just stopping short of bringing down the whole house.

I am pained that a trained engineer NSE product was arguing with me with the concept of providing a 6 inch gravel base before laying the DPC and then pouring the concrete slab on top of it, after everything I read, not only am I laying the concrete on top of the DPC, I am ordering insulation from Vitapur.

The Professor from Minnesota made it clear that you must do everything to ensure that your concrete slab never makes contact with water and that includes creating that gravel barrier.

Meanwhile this engineer was telling me that the practice is to make a bed of sand and then tile the house, my plan was to create a granite base, then place DPC, then pour the new concrete floor on top of the DPC, which plan has now been amended to include two layers of insulation and and two layers of DPC.

I am also building another barrier before the outer walls of the foundation and ensuring that I include something in between the new foundation protection walls and the proper house foundation to act as an air and vapor barrier.

Sorry for security reasons no pictures, I will provide heavily sanitized pictures later on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXXgjvOJcYI&ab_channel=MattRisinger

Vapor barrier versus/and Air barrier

hamtabfawaz:
Boss! Please how much did you get this?

I got it for a steal, it cost me 40k, but don't expect to get it at that price, because they guy seriously wanted to offload it, he has had it on his shelf for longer than he cares to remember.

There are three types: 1. electric 2. pneumatic 3. battery powered

Be very sure of the one you are buying

FEGEITOK:
What is the practice here?

After pouring concrete, how long do you wait before you tile?

https://www. tcnatile. com/ faqs/27-tile-over-concrete.html

When pouring concrete, did you install a vapor Barrier or Vapor Retarder?

Close the gaps: https:// www. energy. gov/energysaver/vapor-barriers-or-vapor-retarders

If you cry about water ingress into the walls and the floor, then you will know why!

So I am remodeling an old house, and as I always do, I research the issue very deeply.

Found this, hope it helps someone given the hues and cries about damp wall, mold etc due to bad building practices locally.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8fOMBlfh3A&ab_channel=MattRisinger

GloriousGbola:
this is the new normal

cars are moving to subscription package

did you read about how you have to pay monthly fee for heated bmw seats?
and if you sell your tesla to someone else, the person has to start paying his own subscription for features in the car

its a real mess - microtransactions coming to actual hardware
it will get to the point where end users will start blocking the internet from their cars

i had read about hp printer nonsense, then i experienced it.

my printer refused to use a cartridge because the cartridge was older than a year. i had to overwrite the update, and block auto updating

this is the world we are going to.

I am aware of the BMW heated seats subscription.

Sometimes new is not always better.

Some new cars are deliberately made harder to fix DIY so you can go to the dealer for service

twinskenny:
I still have some solar street light available

27k

1 year warranty

08051355133

wattage?

mctfopt:
I wish I can get this angry and get that Tesla I've been eyeing

Congratulations on your setup.

I read a terrible story. forget the Tesla!


Google this headline to appreciate: "Canadian Tesla owner says automaker locked him out of his car until he pays $26,000 for new battery"

toyeoye:
No problem, thank you

I have very busy on a very big project, but my workload has lightened, will give you full information this weekend.

So so sorry for the delay.

@toyeoye, I have updated this post with more information for you.

I am currently using Quanta Amaron SMF batteries.
I am currently using a Schneider Inverter 1.5KVA. I bought 2 of those.

After I bought the Quanta, I got to know of Deka and wished to get Deka next time.

That was because I was introduced to Lithium batteries, I am yet to do the research to determine which brand of Lithium battery to go for.

I hope that helps.

I currently don't have solar panels, I charge with the grid or my generator.

I plan to install solar panels before the month runs out.

I will be buying either 4 No. 300W or 2 No. 500W per inverter.

I picked Schneider because of the abundance of information on their website and that they had a directory of distributors/resellers in Nigeria.

If you need more information, ask and I will not hesitate to provide

So this is part of the reason why a lot of us in diaspora gets into DIY. It's not because we're cheap or workers are expensive. It's partly because we have cheap access to quality tools and materials.

A perfect example is the blueprint for my build. I got tired of explaining my idea to architects, so I simply downloaded SketchUp and drew it out once and for all.


I have table saw, a commercial grade Ryobi, beveling miter saw, jigsaws, etc engine hoist, car ramps, engine stands, etc all professional grade stuff

The next stage is to also do my own crude modeling instead of struggling to explain in words

In Nigeria, single proprietor carpenters/ small shop carpenters don't as a general rule use power wood working tools.

But wood working companies even in Nigeria don't joke with power tools, that is apparent from the quality of their finishing.

Interestingly, those local carpenters do use power tools when they take up jobs at those wood working companies, but for some reason or reasons, they never purchase those to work except maybe the drill and what they locally call the screwing machine.

That said, it was very interesting to me when I was about to purchase a miter saw to assist him do quality work for me, and he said that carpenters don't use miter saws, only those working with aluminum do.

I had to share with him a few videos of carpenters using miter saws.

YouTube is full of carpenters using miter saws.

Obviously, there is a major knowledge gap locally, and that translates to the quality of finishing.

That said, the better the finishing, the more the work will cost, and the more the discerning client will be willing to pay for.

Does that mean that local carpenters are taking decisions that hinder their very own prosperity?

Just thinking aloud.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjdPIVMkDiY&ab_channel=WorkMateGuy

FEGEITOK:
Please does anyone have a contact or contacts of a seller of 23 gauge pin nailer?

All I see locally are 18 gauge brad nailers.

Will I also have to import this? Not that I cannot but time is of the essence.

Can't the former be found in Nigeria?

I need to do some woodwork and finding the right tool has been difficult, I searched online and reached out to tool sellers in Lagos and Abuja without success.

Today I bought an 18 guage brad nailer locally while also placing an order for the 23 gauge pin nailer from overseas.

The sellers say these are low demand products in Nigerian so those who sell, don't stock it again or plan to restock if the current stock is exhausted.

I know that there are people who have and use these equipment, but the average carpenter in Nigeria can't be bothered, and it shows in the finishing of their work.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvO1d-6keYc&ab_channel=TheJigstar

Please does anyone have a contact or contacts of a seller of 23 gauge pin nailer?

All I see locally are 18 gauge brad nailers.

Will I also have to import this? Not that I cannot but time is of the essence.

Can't the former be found in Nigeria?

I need to do some woodwork and finding the right tool has been difficult, I searched online and reached out to tool sellers in Lagos and Abuja without success.

izzou:
[color=royalblue]Follow Akure. Its a smoother journey.

Ibadan is so old skool[/color]

I abandoned the above proposed route, I actually took Sagamu and Akure.

Details later.

aieromon:
Vehicle?

2011 Toyota Sienna

Average Fuel Economy 17.2 MPG

The story will be retold aka fleshed out soonest

Home

Giri

Obajana

Ikare Lokoja Road

Kasdat5:
If you are in Lekki / Ajah axis , Esp Ajah , that route will be good for you , but then , Lagos Ibadan road is wonderful...

Why is it wonderful?

Thanks, I am coming from Ikeja

Trip Technical Data

Engine powering the journey is a 3.5 L 266 HP V6

tochifk:
You mean it takes about 13hrs to complete the journey according to the map??

So it says oooo.

But we shall see

speedfreak:
Hello, good day. I believe the fastest safest route for now would be Abuja-abaji-lokoja-obajana-kabba-omuo-ado ekiti-Ibadan- lagos. Try breaking the trips on your map as it wouldn’t suggest this as an option,ie Abuja to lokoja, lokoja to Ado ekiti,just like that. Safe travels

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

I am coming from the other end of the spectrum.

That should mean:

Lagos - Ibadan - Ado Ekiti - Omuo Ekiti - Kabba - Obajana - Lokoja - Abaji - Abuja

What are your thoughts on using Shagamu/Ore instead of Ibadan?

Proposed route in pictures