₦airaland Forum

jcshols: Abro?God forbid!d@ Abro shd b power steering oil n not ATF.
Could u like recommend a name to me,I mean for the ATF and means of getting it?
Also what r d basic checks I can do on d car b4 purchasing?

Thanks.

To buy a used Peugeot, plug in a PP2000 in it to tell you some hidden faults other scanners or universal scanners wont be able to see and reveal to you. There are some faults that will be stored in the various ECUs, both intermittent and permanent faults, that wont lit the Check Engine Light. For example, if your camshaft goes out of timing or your timing belt tensioner starts failing, it will store some hidden codes in the Engine ECU that wont trigger on the CEL (Check Engine Light) and only PP2000 will reveal those codes. Other scanners wont/cant. My point is, PP2000 can tell you if your timing belt is about to break and save you the nightmares that goes with broken timing belt while engine is running, especially the V6.

Peugeot recommends ATF dexron II for their PAS (Power Assisted Steering). TOTAL has ATF Dexron II. Use it for your PAS fluid.

Ikenna.

Op,

Your engine is not dragging, it's hesitating, I think.

Since the AC is factory fitted, it's now ruled out.

I don't know the state of your engine combustion chambers, neither do I know the state of the car engine injection system. You didn't tell us if you have scanned the car and the results. You didn't tell us how often you top up the engine oil or it doesn't consume oil. You didn't tell us what colour of smoke emits from the exhaust or no colour at all. You didn't tell us the state of the ignition system, in this case, I mean the spark plugs. The issue you are experiencing may have nothing to do with the AC, but the state of the engine, ignition or injection system of the car. When load like AC is placed on the engine with faulty system(s), it will give out similar symptom you are experiencing.

Get an electronic contact cleaner, methylated spirit, alcohol or any good solvent aside carb cleaner. Get a toothbrush as well, new or used. Disconnect the battery terminals, if you want to. Then start pulling out, spraying and brushing all wiring connectors in the engine bay you can lay your eyes on, with the solvent and toothbrush. Pull out the connector, spray in the solvent, brush the pins, spray in solvent again to flush out dirts, allow to dry and plug back, both male and femalr connectors. Don't forget to clean the engine ECU connector as well. But please, don't spray the solvent on the ECU pins where you unplugged the connector. Brush the ECU pins with dry brush and clean only the connector. Sometimes, when a injection components connectors corrodes, it would disrupt the the ECU receiving complete signals or values from the sensors/components the connectors are connected to. The ECU may manage to run the engine with such incomplete info from the sensors, but as soon heavy load is added or placed on the engine, the power will drop.

I don't know if your engine has IAC; I don't know if its more pronounced while engine is at idle; even though the symptom sounds unlikely to be an IAC issue, but it wouldn't hurt to clean the IAC (Idle Air Control valve) with carb cleaner, allow to dry, lubricate and mount back. Usually IAC will make rpm drop at idle when clogged or even stall the car when deaccelerating, especially when AC is on.

I wouldn't rule out the ignition, the spark plugs until am sure. If you have not replaced those spark plugs since you got the car with recommended one and not knowing when it was last replaced by the previous owner, it's time for you to replace them, with the electrode properly gapped. I mean properly gapped, not according to the spark plug manufacturer, but your car manufacturer for that engine.

It could still be your AC system, but I don't have much to say on this, if that is the case.

I can't think of any other thing for now. Maybe others will have more or better suggestions to add.

Ikenna.

jcshols: Thanks so much,God bless. Guess I'll just go for it,its a V6. Which ATF do I use for it?

ATF gini? Ha! No try am o! You may likely have to source for the ATF for that transmission outside Nigeria. No near ABRO ATF!

By the way, since it's a V6, then it's 4HP20.

Ikenna.

jcshols: Hello guys,duno if its been discussed alrdy but will like to know if d auto tranny on 407 (05 to be specific) is gud. Is it advisable to buy a 407 with automatic gear?

I know someone that drives 407 auto transmission. It's been two years now he owns the lion and he hasn't experienced any auto tranny issue. The transmission is 4HP20, which is just like anyother auto tranny of other car brands, that is, not as complex as AL4.

One good thing about Peugeot auto tranny cars is that you can always easily convert to manual tranny, if the auto tranny in them starts giving you issues you are no longer comfortable with, unlike other car brands, especially the Japs, that do not give that option, since nearly all that come into the country, especially tokunbo,are all auto tranny, knowing that 99% of them come in from USA & Canada that drives mainly auto trannies. So you can't easily find a used manual box and components in the market. But for Peugeot, 10 - 15k can get you a good used manual box (except the V6 manual box that cost around 80k due to scarcity), even cheaper, since they are so many scrapped ones around and no demand for them, since they are built to last longer than the car itself, as long as there is good oil in it and its properly used.

Get the car, if you want to. You may not experience any issue throughout the ownership of the car. Even if you do, you can always replace the tranny, if you can find a good one or you simply convert to manual. At least, you have options, unlike other car brands.

Ikenna.

Siena:

And for those that fill their engines with oil during a service, then allow 3 minutes before checking the level on the dipstick, one important factor has been forgotten.

The oil filter!

The oil filter can take up to half a litre. If it's replaced during an oil service, when the oil is poured in, the oil filter remains empty. So the engine MUST be run for between 10 - 20 seconds, to allow the oil pump to fill the filter. Otherwise an engine with an oil capacity of 5 litres could have just 4,5 litres, if simply using the dipstick after a lube service, if the engine isn't run, then checked again.

This is why engine oil capacities are often quoted with, AND without oil filter replacement.

Which was why I said in the post that I would refill till it settles in-between the minimum and maximum marks, but closer to the maximum. Then after few days of use, I would check the dipstick. Whatever I find would determine whether to top up or leave it as it were. I have never met the oil level on the dipstick at the minimum mark, while carrying out those checks, with such method my oil change method. And I replaced my oil filter at every oil change (6 months).

My SV D9 Oil capacity is 4.75 litres, so says the manual. But the brand of oil and grade that I wanted to use for the oil change didn't have any can with 4.75 litres or .75 litres. So I bought 5 litres of the oil, removed the old oil, replace the oil filter and pour in 4 litres of the oil first. Then, I used the dipstick to fill to the level that I wanted from the remaining 1 litre, which could be the .75 or less.

So, no matter how weird it sounds, to me, one can still use the dipstick to change his car engine oil and then find out the exact engine oil capacity without getting it from the manual.



Ikenna.

Siena:

And for those that fill their engines with oil during a service, then allow 3 minutes before checking the level on the dipstick, one important factor has been forgotten.

The oil filter!

The oil filter can take up to half a litre. If it's replaced during an oil service, when the oil is poured in, the oil filter remains empty. So the engine MUST be run for between 10 - 20 seconds, to allow the oil pump to fill the filter. Otherwise an engine with an oil capacity of 5 litres could have just 4,5 litres, if simply using the dipstick after a lube service, if the engine isn't run, then checked again.

This is why engine oil capacities are often quoted with, AND without oil filter replacement.

Which was why I said in the post that I would refill till it settles in-between the minimum and maximum marks, but closer to the maximum. Then after few days of use, I would check the dipstick. Whatever I find would determine whether to top up or leave it as it were. I have never met the oil level on the dipstick at the minimum mark, while carrying out those checks, with such method my oil change method. And I replaced my oil filter at every oil change (6 months).

My SV D9 Oil capacity is 4.75 litres, so says the manual. But the brand of oil and grade that I wanted to use for the oil change didn't have any can with 4.75 litres or .75 litres. So I bought 5 litres of the oil, removed the old oil, replace the oil filter and pour in 4 litres of the oil first. Then, I used the dipstick to fill to the level that I wanted from the remaining 1 litre, which could be the .75 or less.

So, no matter how weird it sounds, to me, one can still use the dipstick to change his car engine oil and then find out the exact engine oil capacity without getting it from the manual.

I may not need my manual to tell me my car fuel tank capacity. All I need is to drive till it enters reserve, enter a fuel station with good pump and refill the tank full. Yes, I may not know the actual fuel remaining in the tank before the refill while at reserve, but I will be able to figure out the tank capacity, after deductions and additions. It may not be exact figure of the tank capacity, but it will be close.

Ikenna.

davonny: Good morning mr IK. Pls is there anything one can do to restore a peugeot currupt ECU.

You mean the Engine ECU?

I do know that you can reset the engine ECU by disconnecting both battery terminal heads and hold the two battery connectors together for hours or a whole night. But I don't know if that would fix a corrupted ECU as well. But you can try, anyway.

Ikenna.

KA24DETT: All this could be prevented by wearing a seat belt.

And I told you I was not wearing seat belt?

Ikenna

Originalsly: @OP....you mentioned about a little neck pain after the accident....it is called whiplash and is far more serious than you may think. Have it checked out if you can or it may affect you down the road. Was yoir headrest up to halfway behind your.head?....after all...that is the purpose of the headrest...to prevent whiplash.

I don't recall the position of the headrest, but yes, do car had headrest.

The impact pushed head forward and backward, via the work of seatbelt. Imagine you are hit from behind with a big force and a belt tied you to a chair, with your neck free from the belt. The head unit (radio set) jumped/pulled out of the dashboard where it was screwed and fell unto the gear lever, to tell you how the impact was. I didn't even feel the neck pain until the day after or so. It was when I got back to Abuja the 3rd day that the pain became unbearable.

You see, you can all stay here and argue with whatever your books tells you, but I saw what happened that day, what caused it, how it happened, what it did to me and the outcome. All that because I was the VICTIM. I saw everything from the beginning to the end via the rearview mirrior. I got to the pump, slowed down, pulled out the gear stick from the 2nd gear and was about to shift it to the 1st gear to climb the bump, when I now looked at the rearview mirror and saw the disaster coming to happen before my eyes. I saw the SUV at high speed closing behind me and realised it was going to happen. I could tell from the engine note that the brake was not applied at the distance between us at the speed it was coming. Quickly, I left the gear stick in the neutral and took my feet off the pedals. It was too late by the time he pushed the brake. His wheels would have locked, considering the speed he was doing when he tried to stop the car (to prove that his ABS was working well). No noise of wheel locked of any kind. He started steering the SUV nose out to the left side (meaning the ABS working for him to steered the vehicle and it responded). Unsuccessfully, the right side bumper guard (close to right headlight) crashed onto the left rear side of the car I was driving. If I had shifted the stick to the 1st gear and apply brake when it happened, it would have been something all together. Even if I had come out with no scratch, other than the neck pain, the damage to the car would have made the car unmovable at that spot. The ABS gave him the room to steer the car completely into the other lane to prevent hitting the car, but the thinking distance was poor; he started steering when it was too late, because of over confidence of what his AUTOMATIC brake can do. And yes, the road in question is a very smooth road. Those that ply that road will know the road am talking about that is about 60-80 km with bumps at every 3-10 km.


I didn't start this topic to convince anyone, but simply to tell how I was a victim of Nigerians interpretation of ABS and it's misuse. Anyone who is in doubt can still carry out a test and come back and prove me wrong. Just find a parked truck, tractor or bulldozer on a smooth surface road. Push your car to the limit, get too close and hold your brake pedal to the floor for the ABS to come and hold it there. And please, don't steer the wheel, just hold it steady, since the ABS is supposed to stop the car before it gets to the Tractor. After all, understanding ones vehicle braking distance means nothing, as far as ABS is concerned.

Ikenna.

[quote author=ba_aliyah]Women and SIENNA, I have noticed this:
More than 50% of sienna are driven by women.
More than half of those women are short.
They drive alone or along with a friend leaving other seats empty.
Almost all sienna driven women can not reverse on their own.
I avoid parking near sienna, and pray they dont park near me. You are either dented or marked with the door.
My sister almost sold hers when I asked if she needs a space bus with a V6 engine to go to salon, market, or office that is less than 10km to and fro.
@poster, dont be offended, I am thinking aloud.[/quote]Funny enough, these women don't complain about their Sienna's fuel consumption, even though they are V6. To them, for all they care, it could be 3 cylinder engine under those bonnets and the fuel consumption are ok to them and they are loving their Siennas, just like Op.

Unfortunately, my fellow men are the one complaining of how gas guzzling V6 are. At the mention of V6, they will pick off like Hyena, running for their dear life, as if the badge "V6" represents "666".

So much to learn about our dear women and fellow men.

Ikenna.

wisesystem: Took out time today to resolve a lingering air bag fault which popped up after changing my COMMS 2000. The Scan result read:
PERMANENT FAULT; LEVEL OF DRIVER MODULE TRIGGER 1. OPEN CIRCUIT. Courtesy of the above post by Bigx I simply asked my Electrician to check the connectors to see if any where not connected properly. He insisted that it wasnt necessary citing all his years of experience and how he didnt appreciate his customers telling him his job. He rambled on about all other possible causes of an air bag fault and advised we try another COMMS 2000. Hmmm.... plenty talk... I insisted He first check the connecting switches and if the fault remained I would then listen to him. He finally reluctantly opened the steering removed all the connectors, rechecked they where fitted in the right positions, coupled the steering compartment back and BOOOOM! No air bag fault.

@ Bigx thanks for your post,was indeed helpful.

Well, like i have always been preaching, most of the peugeot problems lies in wiring connectors. First thing i do while troubleshooting wiring issues in Peugeots is pulling out the connectors of the components the scan tool reported faulty, checking them out and pushing them back in. Most times, it resolves the issues.

Anyway, congrats for eventually fixing the airbag issue. As for the ranting of your electrician, ingnore that. If you follow how they feel about how you think on how they work on your car, then be prepared for series of nightmares.

Ikenna.

2013 Australian French Car Festival: 20/10/2013

http://leckyphoto.smugmug.com/Cars/French-Car-Festivals/French-Car-Festival-RENAULT/32848403_N8kWXN#!i=2845560504&k=kgq22qR


http://imgur.com/a/stZvn#0


http://leckyphoto.smugmug.com/share/gn7PyY47BQB4E


Abuja, lion owners, can we pull this off? Year is coming to an end.

Ikenna

lomomike: I think this suggestions should be made known to auto section because they carry out sales of cars there too. In car talk section, we don't engage in sales of cars, sales of car parts, or sales of car accessories etc. Still, I suggest you wait for Ikenna351's input.
Thanks

You have said it all.

Ikenna.

Two vehicles cannot have the same braking distance. Which is I earlier said understanding ones car braking distance is the main priority, ABS or not.

The first thing a reasonable driver does once he enters a vehicle he/she hasn't driven before, is to use the first few minutes the car is in motion to find out the state of the car's brake or the car's braking distance.

Two different vehicles with non ABS may have the same braking distance when they are both doing 20 - 40 km/h. But when they are both doing 100 km/h, both wont get to a standstill position at the same measured distance. From pole A to pole B, the first car brake my lock when the brake pedal is depressed hard at pole A to stop before it gets to Pole B at 100 km/h. You may have to pump the brake for it to stop at or before the pole B, otherwise, it may pass the Pole B, since the wheels have locked. But the 2nd vehicle (the same non ABS), at the same 100 km/h, may stopped at pole B or before even the pole B, when started braking from pole A, without any lock wheels or brake pumping.

The same is applicable to 2 ABS installed different vehicles. One may stop at pole B or before the pole B with the help of ABS. While the 2nd car, with ABS fitted as well, may stop before the pole B without the assistance ABS , since the standard brake of the car is powerful enough to do the job, with the same given distance.

In 2001, I travelled to Enugu with my brother for a wedding in our family Peugeot 504 GL ( I was driving). Somewhere between Trans-Ekulu and Abakpa along Onitsha-Enugu Expressway, I was behind a Toyota Carina II SW (when it was still worshipped as 2008 Toyota Camry of Today). I was doing about 100 km/h or so. The car the Carina II was following behind suddenly stopped. The Carina braked, realised the car would crashed onto the tail of the car that stopped, and swerved the nose out of the road. By the time I saw clearly what was going on, I was already too close to the Carina. I immediately pushed down the brake pedal and the clutch. My car, at the speed I was doing, quietly came to a halt, no screech, no wheel lock. I didn't steer the nose out. My car front didn't kiss the Carina's tail. The gap still had few steps separating us. Suddenly, I heard noise from behind, I looked back and saw a car heading towards my car tail with locked wheels and the noise of the tyres. The driver realised he wouldn't make it, released the brake pedal (I believed) and swerved to the left side of the untared road. Guess where he finally stopped? His front bumpers were close to the drivers door of mine, where I was seating. Meaning, if he had not swerved out of the road, he would crashed and pushed my 504 to hit the Carina, at whatever speed he was coming with. It would have been a disaster. Only my brother, till this moment, knows what happened that day in our family, if he would still remember. That was the day I respected that 504 GL foreign assembled brake system. I use that car for years, but cant remember ever hearing the noise of lock wheels throughout the years the car was under my care. No scratch, dent or crash on that car throughout the 10 years the car key was with me. My present 505 V6 Brake system is no match to that 504 GL braking distance. Not even close. Even though the 505 succeeded the 504 with more power. Peugeot knew what they produced which was why they left 505 and listed 504 as one of their classy/classical cars they have produced. Check their database and prove me wrong. This is enough to tell you that something is new doesn't necessarily mean is better than the old one it replaced. Both 504 and 505 were good in their era, but the 505 was not better than the 504 it succeeded.

In my starting post, I used the term "Thinking Distance" as something to be considered, to understand ones car braking distance. I came across that term sometime in the past when I was looking up brake systems in my SV D9. My own definition of Thinking Distance is the distance a driver starts applying brake or gaps a driver gives between a vehicle he/she is following behind, since he/she has understood his brake system/capacity. A driver that understands the braking distance of a car he/she is driving will always apply the thinking distance, for the car braking distance to be achieved.

The standard brake of every vehicle should be good enough for a good driver to use without having need to ever use the ABS, once he/she understands the car's braking distance.

The primary aim of ABS is to keep the wheels free for the steering to be able to steer the car to any direction the driver wants to steer the car to, while the ABS module also tries to stop the car completely while that is going on.

My SV D9 has about 3 Brake systems, aside the standard brake. If ABS can be this effective as we are claiming here, why would other new brake systems introduced recently still be added in cars with ABS? So now manufacturers who are looking for a way to cut down cost of production would install 3 expensive systems to do one job, when one of the systems can actually do the job? ABS is no longer new, meaning the newer brake systems should have replaced the ABS. Yet, they are all still been installed together, to help improve the brake, which to me, is the braking distance. Because that's what its all about. The shorter the braking distance, the safer. Why then are those other brake systems doing in a car with ABS, when the ABS can do the job well?

Ikenna.

elektra80: The truth is ABS is a safety feature and it does reduce braking distance. And I don't agree that if u understand ur car properly, u don't need ABS to stop u from hitting or steering out of an object.. that is bull crap. Why do manufacturers install ABS then. Now I am not saying we should drive recklessly because we have ABS.. far from that. No matter how good u are on the wheels, sometimes we encounter an emergency where we need to stomp on the brake at high speed, especially on a slippery road, Now tell me how will u stop that car fast enough if u don't have ABS. Your car will slip and u lose control without able to steer it out of danger.. this is where ABS comes in, at least with ABS u have a better chance of steering the car out of danger. A lot of people have lost their lives because of wheels locking.

The problem with most Nigerians is they don't know when their ABS is working or not. I have entered several vehicles with ABS light on yet the owners think their ABS is working. Yes I have been ignorant too in the past, I use to drive a car with the ABS light always on and I thought I had working ABS not knowing its faulty. A lot of vehicles on our roads have this ABS light always illuminated on the dashboard and if u ask the owners they don't know why its on and they think their cars have ABS now knowing its as good as conventional brake.

Back then in Awka when I was been raised under my Parents roof, I was the one troubleshooting and fixing my parents cars brake issues. From 2005 to 2006, I single handily converted Peugeot 504 GL to 505 with a stripped/empty 505 body, except the engine and gearbox that I had no tool to pull out and the strength to transfer them to the 505 body. The rest was done by me, alone, including the swapping of the brake components and getting them to work as it was doing when the system was in 504. In 2007 in Enugu, I single handily upgraded a PAN 505 brake system of an Uncle to 504 GL brake system, after he have heard so much about how good I was in fixing brakes from my parents. I made the list of items needed for the upgrade, got the money, travelled to Mgbuka-Obosi, bought the items, returned to Enugu and spent 3 days in the modification. I have been fixing the brakes of all the vehicles I have owned/used, including the present ones, till date. I carry out braking distance test each time I work on my brakes and would return to continue on the job if the test result didn't satisfy me, until I get the best result/braking distance out of the car brake. So I do not become what I am today with cars just yesterday.

I have a workshop, neither did I attend any auto technical or training institute. My cars are my Laboratories, including the ones I have owned or used before now. My cars workshop manuals are just my guide, but 80% of knowledge I have about understanding, troubleshooting and fixing cars today were acquired with my bare hands on spanners and what goes through my brain when am inside the car, the engine bay and under the car, both day and night. Most of the tips on how to manually troubleshoot and fix cars I have posted in this section, were knowledge I acquired or methods I discovered, aside what my repair manuals say, which most times are simpler to methods manuals instruct. You can Google some of them and see if you can find them online. May be someone else have figured them out and posted them online. Well, its left for you to find them and prove me a liar.

I don't read the brake systems. I dissect and study them. I have spent countless nights under my cars with torchlights, trying to figure out how to nail an issue my workshop manuals didn't cover, which at the end would figure out and fix before going to bed, if I still have more hours left to sleep till day break. Oh! I have forgotten, I replaced my SV D9 Timing belt at Night with torchlight, including the day I replaced the Thermostat. I could go on and on. Just trying to let you know how a Theorist I am. I may be doing something else to make a living, but I know who and what I am. Yes, of course, I wont know everything, we learn everyday. But I know the little I have gathered with those tools on my hands under those bonnets.

So next time am debating on a practical side of car discussion, spare me some You Tube Videos or what you read online on the topic. Find a theorist you can use that on. Am a wrong person for such.

"And I don't agree that if u understand ur car properly, u don't need ABS to stop u from hitting or steering out of an object.. that is bull crap."

This post is simply to help you realise how true your quoted comment about me is.

Ikenna.

Sometimes, we think when there is something new, the older ones seize to be good. Anyone who have used a foreign assembled Peugeot 504 GL with 4-Wheel disc and PAN 504 with rear Wheel drum brakes, will understand better what I mean. The 504 GL with the 4-wheel disc brake had single chamber master cylinder, unlike the PAN models with double chambers master cylinder. Will stop here on this.

You could drive your car with working ABS for 5 years or more without making use of it. ABS is only there for one thing: to steer out of object, since the 4 wheels will be free, giving you room to direct the car nose out of danger. Unlike a locked wheel that move directly to the danger, no matter how you try to steer the car out of it. From the basics of how ABS works, it wasn't invented to reduce braking distance. Probably, it has been improved on, but that's a story for another day.

Lets not forget, like I noted in one of my earlier posts, that there are other newer brake systems that come as standard in newer cars, to improve the entire brake system, which may reduce the braking distance of the vehicle installed.

A car with faulty ABS doesn't mean the brake wont work, only that the ABS is off. The key here is understanding of ones car brake system and know how you follow other cars from behind.

Relying on ABS is a very wrong thing for one to do. Its electric. We all know how electronics are reliable, compared to mechanicals. Those wheel sensors can disappoint one when the ABS is needed. The communication between the wheel ABS sensors and the ECU could terminate or go off, in the middle of ABS operation. You pushed your brake pedal to the floor, steering the car out of the danger, jumping potholes and gullies in the process, expecting the communication between the two to remain in tact?

If you understand your car brake properly, you don't need the ABS to stop your car from hitting or steering out of an object .

Ikenna.

ZIM DRILL: i get what you are saying but whats thats got to do with problems of a cars that infor doesnt help a mechanic at all

there is no need to mention that the car is a used one 2nd etc just get to the point eg my volvo s40 2001 2.0litre is having this problem

They are not the same. The diagnosis of Nigerian used and toknubo are not the same as well, whether the two cars are of the same model.

If someone complains that his 2001 model Nigerian used Peugeot 406 is running very thirsty, and someone else that owns a freshly tokunbo 2001 model Peugeot 406 complains of the same rich running issue, the diagnosis wont be the same. Why? For Nigerian used, you need to check if the thermostat is still in the cooling system; you need to check if the radiator electrical fan is still factory connected; you need to check if the o2 sensor has not been disconnected, since the catalytic converter must been removed; you need to check if the poor car still have factory recommended tyre size or terribly overinflated; you need to check how many injection system sensors/components are still connected, etc. All these mentioned above have to be ruled first before you even think of going into the troubleshooting proper.

But for tokunbo car, all you need to do is plug in a scanner, disconnect the wiring connector of the faulty sensors/components, replace the faulty components and reconnect the connectors. The work is finished, shikena.

Now, do you still think all 2001 model Peugeot 406 are the same when troubleshooting, whether Nigerian used or toknubo?

Last Tuesday, I went to scan a Toyota Avenza at APO that have refused to start, for only God knows how long. As soon as I opened the bonnet, I was shocked with what I saw. The complete engine wiring loom was completely butchered. I couldn't even count the number of wires I found naked. I still picked courage to go ahead with the scanning. I pepped under the steering wheel to look for the OBD II scan port and so another hell under there. Wires of different colours were cross cutting each other, butchery here and there. It was at that point that I became very scared to plug in my scanner, for fear of explosion. Even when I eventually plugged in the scanner, it failed to communicate with the ECU, which I was not surprised, anyway. I quickly unplugged it and called it a day. Two days ago, the owner of the car called and said the have eventually started after another mechanic came and opened up the timing belt chamber and found out that the previous mechanic timed the engine wrongly when replacing the timing belt. He got it corrected and the car started once. So because of wrong timing, they had to butcher the whole wire in the car looking for the culprit that made the car stop starting. That's Nigerian used car for you!

Anyway, let's not derail this thread with Nigerian used vs Tokunbo. It should be a topic on its own.


Ikenna.

ZIM DRILL: Automatic Braking System killed me

why is that most nigerians here mention where they bought the car as part of the description eg "tokunbo vehicle"

Tokunbo is an aka for 2nd hand, but foreign used. After reading the abuse we dish out on cars in Nigeria, will you still think that a 2nd hand Nigerian used and a 2nd, 3rd or 4th foreign used car will be the same?

Even if a car is bought brand new in Nigeria and later put for sale as 2nd hand car, a lot of Nigerians would still prefer 4th hand used foreign one to it.

Ikenna.

kollistic: Ikenna. Please where can I get a good mechanic for my 306 here in Lagos. My car has bn lacking great care. Pls o

Sorry, I don't stay in Lagos. So, i don't know any Peugeot mechanic over there, not to think of the good ones.

Ikenna.

Sometime this year (not quite long), I bought a tokunbo vehicle for someone in Abuja and drove it down to Anambra state to deliver the car to the owner. While into the journey, between Lokoja and Enugu, I took a bypass, that cut some kilometres off the journey. The road have some bumps, before you get to Otupka, Benue state. I got to a bump, slowed down and was about climbing it, I viewed my reaview mirror, as I always do. I saw a Toyota Sequoia V8 4WD 1st Generation, heading towards my tail on top speed. Before I could say jack, the SUV smashed my vehicle and pushed it off the road.

The impact was so terrible that it threw out the radio set out. I came down and checked. The rear of the car I was in was in terrible bad shape while the Sequoia's Bumper and bumper guard was in bad shape too, but the bumper guard was a written enough. I met 2 occupants in the Sequoia, a driver and the car owner, a madam. The driver was begging, claiming he thought the brake could catch as he was getting too close to me but the brake disappointed him as he applied the brake. This was a tokunbo car I bought for someone and he hasn't seen the vehicle for the first time and someone, out of carelessness created this terrible mess for me. What a situation!

We were in the middle of no-where, so there was nothing both of us could do there arguing or playing stubborn. We still had about 4 hours drive to get to Enugu from that spot. Luckily, we were both going to Anambra state and the woman final destination was Awka. But I would have to take the car to Coal Camp Enugu to fix the car, since I couldn't just take the car in that shape to the owner. She begged me heaven and Earth to take what she have on her to take to Enugu and fix the vehicle. I had no option than to take whatever she gave me and continued the journey with the car in a very terrible shape. I had to sleep in Enugu a night to replace, panel beat and re-sprayed the car rear. Luckily, the owner of the understood, but a terrible experience am not sure I will forget. I suffered neck pain for close to a month because of that incident.

My point in the above story is about how Nigerians define ABS and misuse it as such. The driver believed that ABS of the car would reduce the braking distance. For that he continued on the high speed till he got too close, only to realise how wrong he was. Most times, you hear Nigerians telling you his/her car's braking distance is so good because it has ABS. But to the best of my knowledge, if you understand how ABS works, you will believe with me that ABS doesn't necessarily reduce the braking distance, rather it will likely increase the distance to help the driver steer away from hitting an object, since it prevents any wheel from locking when brake pedal is fully depressed. The driver's thinking distance was poor because he didn't understand that vehicle's braking distance.

ABS wheel sensor senses a wheel about to lock, signals to ABS ECU and the ABS ECU via the ABS controller/pump reduces the pressure of fluid going to that wheel to release and prevent it from locking, so that the front wheels can still steer, while the brake system still try to get the car to a halt. I do not see reduction in braking distance here.

Because of this wrong ABS definition by Nigerians, you see a lot of Nigerians driving recklessly in the city, telling you "My Car has ABS. No shaking!" Yet you see scratches and batches on the car here and there. Some taken so much body filler that you can't tell the model of the car of the car anymore since it has gone out of shape.

In the city, I craw when am behind the wheel. Some forum members who have been in my car will explain better. They will overtake and curse me for crawling and slowing them down. But who cares? When I don't even hear the rubbish coming out of their mouth, since my windows are always up with my music entertaining me. But whenever I steer into expressway, catch me if you can, unless am not in the mood.

Yes, I craw in the town because I do not want to give you the room to come and bash me. Because when fly off in the city, they would fly behind you. But their brake system may not be as good as yours or they may not understand their cars braking distance and when you suddenly apply your brake and stop, they will hit you from behind. We see that happen everyday. So, I don't need to talk more on that. But mostly happen because "My car get ABS" which will affect their thinking distance and make poor judgement about their cars breaking distance.

If you have a driver driving you, be very firm on how they drive you or your car, even when you are not around. Because whatever trouble they cause with that car, it's on your head. I knew how much the woman cuffed out that day for me to use in fixing the vehicle, which at the end of the day, was not even close to the amount I spent in fixing the car. Sometimes, you see some mad people driving recklessly in town. When you peeped in, they would drivers, alone without their Ogas. But when they hit other people's vehicles, the Ogas will have to come and bail out his vehicle and settle the victims of the incidents. Am not even talking about when they send Pedestrians to mortuary. My point is, try and educate them about car brake system, especially the wrong ABS interpretation and misuse.

Yes, their may be other brake systems installed in the recent cars to improve the over all braking distance. But understanding your car's brake system will help your thinking distance and finally, the over all stopping distance of the vehicle.

Ikenna.

How To Safely Disconnect Battery Terminals In Peugeots With BSI:



http://peugeotarena.com/how-to-disconnect-battery-on-peugeots-with-bsi-unit/


Ikenna.

Beehandz: @Ikenna

Thnks for d good job here.
I wana get a 206 Manual for a start. is dz car advisable for a starter pls. In terms of fuel consumption, parts and maintenance.

Yes, it is.

Ikenna.

chiebube:

This one na oyibo clamp. If they have been using this type of clamp in Abuja, they wouldn't have been making their money because one small hammer is enough to get rid of that plastic.

Abuja clamp look scary. You will see about terrible looking heavy big chain crossed on one tyre with one horrible looking metal covering the entire wheel. Very scary!

Sometime last year, I drove to GLO office at Aminu Kano crescent, Wuse II, Abuja to sort an issue out. I paid for 1 hour and went into the GLO building. Before I knew it, the 1 hour has passed, yet what I came for was not ready. I had to run out like a mad man to go and save my car from been clamped. Luckily, they have not remembered my vehicle. Probably busy clamping others. I quickly paid for extra 3 hours for peace of mind. Funny enough, as I got back into GLO office, what I have been waiting for was ready for collection. In fact, they were even looking for me when I ran out to save myself from paying 5k I didn't plan for. As if that was not enough, on my way back to office, a policeman jumped into my car at a traffic light, claiming that I tried to beat the traffic light. What a sad day!

I got back to office and decided "no more driving in town during working hours on weekdays". Once I get to office in the morning, I park the vehicle and only move it again while driving back home, after close of work for the day. Any need to go somewhere during working hours will be taken care of via Taxi/cab. Yes, it cost more, but I need my peace of mind. I only drive during the working hours if am sure that where am going have a legal parking space that wont involve those guys giving me unnecessary headache.

Ikenna.

Double194: Ikenna what's ur beef with this thread?? Since I opened it, U have been lurking around like a predator. Pls don't give me sterotypical mod attitude, am not ur everyday Nairalander.

If you direct this your juvenile crap at me next time on this thread, I will go back and treat your previous offence in this thread as should have been treated.

This section forbids any form of sales, advert or promotion. Yet, you and smartchoice started sales transaction in this thread. I was kind of enough to hid those posts and this is what I got from you.

I know what it cost me to view all threads, including topics am not interested in, just to maintain sanity in the section by removing scam posts, spams, adverts, etc, but all you have to say here is "U have been lurking around like a predator". What a lucky guy you are!

If you are familiar with Car Talk rules, https://www.nairaland.com/1025988/not-post-sales-adverts-car

Next time, I will take it seriously.

Moderator.

Today, being 18/10/2013, lomomike and Marpol have been appointed to co-moderate the Car Talk section. Congrats!


Ikenna.

Yes, not knowing your manufacturer's engine oil capacity is kind of dumb, but I don't rely on it while changing my engine oil.

My ZN3J which is 2.8 L/cc takes 6 litres of oil to get to maximum mark, according to the owners manual and workshop manual. But I don't just pour in 6 litres of oil while changing the oil and oil filter, because I don't fill up to the maximum mark. First, I would pour in 5 litres straight. I would wait for like 3 minutes for the oil to settle in the oil pan. Then, I would pull out the dipstick and check. Whatever I see on the dipstick would determine the next quantity of oil to pour in. Gradually, I would be topping, waiting, checking and topping till it get to a level on the dipstick I want to, usually between the minimum and maximum, but closer to the maximum level mark on the dipstick (but would top up if everything checks out ok after few days). Why? Because the first few days of oil change, I would like to know if the oil level would increase from where I left it on the dipstick. It helps me to know the state of my injection system; to know if the injection system is overfueling the engine, which will wash down the cylinders, dilute the oil and increase the level. Leaving the oil level at maximum mark on the dipstick will then cause excess oil in the engine or over gauge which will introduce its own problems to the engine. Its a mechanical method of knowing the state of my injection system, scan or no scan, symptoms or no symptoms.

If for some weird reasons one fails to look up for his engine's oil capacity, dipstick is enough to know. All I need to do is buy about 6 litres of oil. Remove the old oil and oil filter and then get to work. First, I will pour in about 3 litres, out of the 6 litres of oil purchased for the oil change. Wait for 3 minutes or so for the oil to settle in the oil pan and then check the dipstick. The dipstick will now help me gradually pour in the oil till it gets to the maximum mark or level on the dipstick that is ok. Whatever amount of oil remaining is enough to tell me how many litres of oil my engine takes to get to normal level on the dipstick. That remaining oil is not a waste, because there will be another oil change, thereby determining the litres of oil to buy to complete the amount of oil the engine needs.

There is nothing wrong in figuring out other ways of carrying checks or repairs other than how the car manufacturers asked us to do in their books. It's called "being practical". That's the message Nissparts was trying to pass across, I believe.

Ikenna.

ZIM DRILL: Is your AC aftermarket or the original from manufacturer ?

This should have been the first question in this matter.

Ikenna.

leonn: @ ikenna i intend buying a peugeot 607 auto trans n a v6 3.0 engine, the car has being grounded for almost a year now, according to the owner he said the engine needs to be changed n thats all, but it"s a risky deal so would like to know if i should go ahead or not, will also like to know the issues prevalent with peugeot 607 v6 3.0 auto transmission. all suggestion could also be sent to linokong@gmail.com , expecting your wonder ful advice...

The information you provided is not enough to advice you whether to ahead or not with the purchase. Because, I would like to know what led to the failure of the engine, if actually the engine has failed. Did the timing belt break and damaged the engine? Did the pre-cats failed and set the car to permanent limp home mode? Did the CKP failed and cause non starting of the engine? An overheated engine? etc. If I were you, I must know what is wrong with that engine before I consider whether to buy the car or not, even if I will have to replace the engine.

What is the state of the electrics? Because if the electric has been butchered severely, abused or wrongly connected on various sensors or injection components, the same will happen to the engine you will swap into the car. The best way of getting the right answer to the above question is to plug in PP2000 in that car. It will reveal to you the state of the entire car electrical system, not just the engine management.

ES9A, the PR V6 engine in that car, has constant VVT on, unlike the ES9J4S that has on/off VVT. Both engines are identical, not just similar. But the camshaft settings are different.

About the 4HP20, the auto box in that car, it's been discussed recently here. If you plan to use that transmission in the car, you are on your own.

ES9 series are very cheap, cheaper than EW10. If I would buy that car, I would buy a complete ES9A tokunbo engine with manual trans bolted to it and simply convert the car to manual trans. It will be cheaper to buy it that way than buy the transmission separately. Because if you want peace of mind, consider converting the transmission to manual. Because if care is not taken after purchasing the car and replacing the engine, you may find yourself dealing with transmission replacement or rebuilt, sooner than you expect. Like I said earlier, you are on your own, as far that transmission is concerned.

Hope I didn't get you confused?


Ikenna.

Op,

Which part of Nigeria do you stay? If you stay in the East, then you have nothing to worry about. It can be re-threaded perfectly well over there.

I had similar issue once back then in Awka, Anambra state, when i was using my father's Peugeot 504 GL, XN1 engine. I was given an option of doing the new thread job with the cylinder head on or off the engine bay. I chose the off engine bay since i wouldn't some metals to drop into the combustion chamber while the re-threading work would be going on. The cylinder head was removed. About 20-30 mins later, the stripped thread was back in good shape. Of course, i had to buy head gasket for the cylinder head to be re-mounted.

Anyone that grew up in Awka, Onitsha or Enugu will understand me better. Your issue is not a big deal if thats where you live.

Ikenna.

https://www.nairaland.com/1481050/what-issues-nissan-x-trail


Moderator.

Abuja International Motor Fair:

All the Brands, the Models and Unbeatable Prices.

October 22 - 30, 2013.

Venue: Eagle Square, Abuja.



I don't know about you, but I will make out time to visit the square for the event, to feed my eyes on Peugeot/PAN stand. I attended the 2011 one and took very interesting pictures. It gives one opportunity to see newly launched models and ask questions. But most importantly, feed your eyes!

Ikenna.