₦airaland Forum

smartchoice: One Red/Black label wine for you just send me the address ...on your way to being the Mod of the year thanks.

Thanks, but not interested. I have better things in life to be bothered with than compete for such things.

Glad your unfair ban from the Anti-spambot has been sorted.

Moderator

Jazz lite: @Ikenna351: Please why is Smartchoice on a ban?

I just checked and found he was on Anti-spambot ban. He has been unbanned.


Moderator

elektra89: Are u also going to re-open my acct? You know this will go on all night mr stewpid moderator.

For persistently spamming the Car Talk section with multiple usernames, I just want to let you know what you are getting yourself into.

If your spam in this section continues, I will have no option than to mark all posts in all your usernames as spams, from elektra80 - electra89, and more, in case you still plan to terrorize the section with more usernames. All your posts since you joined Nairaland will be hidden, irrespective of sections you posted, for been the Car Talk spammer of the year. It will be like you never existed in Nairaland, even posts you quoted will be taken off too. Since you have decided to terrorize the sections by spamming the section with about 9 usernames so far, you will have yourself to blame.

Note that your IP addresses could also be banned if I take it up with the management.

You were given a 3-day ban for derailing a thread, harassing a poster/member and insulting the same poster. Instead of you to quietly go and serve your ban, you chose to harass the Car Talk section with your spams. If I were you, I would go and serve that ban. But if you think am bluffing with handling your case as I said I would do, lets see how it goes.

Note that it takes me only 2 seconds to ban a spammer for 100 years and mark all his posts on that username as spams, in case you think you are giving me work with your spams.

This is my last warning to you. Let this thread be. Won't say it again.

Moderator

A lion house member visited me today in the office. Later, we went out together to buy some parts at Area 3 Junction spare parts plaza. We decided to find out if D9 new Catalytic Converter is available in Abuja. Luckily, it is. But each new one cost 65k (excluding v6 though) while complete new D9 exhaust with Catalytic converter, cost 120k (i hope i remember it correctly ).

So, guys, becareful where you buy your fuel or how you run your fuel tank empty. Excessive fueling, failed coil pack, failed spark plugs and oil burning engine will kill the Caty quicker.

Ikenna

yemionline: Hi Ikenna, I Really like wat u are doing here. more grease to ur elbows bro. Pls i hav an issue with my car. i drive a 406 1998 model. i suddenly started having issues with my battery. the battery water was topped and den a day afta the battery started messing up. it refused to start in d morning anymore, we had to keep pushing. the car is fine in during the day but at night once i turn on the head lights with the A/c on, before you know it the lights starts getting dim, d radio and A/c start misbehaving, at that point if i turn off the engine, its not going to start anymore. most of the features of the car are digital, i'm using an su10 engine. i checkd to see if the battery was charging properly by removing one of the battery terminal wires while the engine is running, and the car didn't go off. the electricians boy where i went to have the car checked recommended that i buy a 75AH battery instead, that the 60 AH battery is too small for my car, pls wats ur take on this?

A failing battery symptom.

Before i go on, please, do not remove your battery terminals again while engine is running in your D8 again. Even though it lacks BSI unit, but it could fry your Engine Control Unit. There are better and safer ways of testing Alternator.

The symptom sounds like your battery is gone. I would advice you get another battery. But as for the person that told you that 60 Ah battery is too small for the car, don't mind him. D8 & D9 factory battery is 60 -62 Ah. 75 or 60 Ah battery makes no difference in 406. What matters is how good the battery is.

To test and rule out your Alternator, other than the crude method you used, get a DMM (Digital MultiMeter ). If you don't have, you buy one of N200. Start the car, set the DMM to 20v, place the DMM red lead on the positive battery terminal and the black lead on the negative battery terminal (with AC off). You should get a fluctuating volts between 13.8 - 14v. That should tell you your Alternator is charging well.
I would suggest you buy another battery as soon as the DMM test proves the Alternator is ok. Look for Everstart battery. It's made in Korea and very good battery, though scarce. Thats the battery in my SV D9.

Ikenna

Thread is now re-opened.

Moderator

Am locking this thread for now since elecktra80 - elecktra86 has been terrorizing Op on this thread, by insulting Op and myself with all sorts of names. Op, will get the thread back on when the issue is fixed. Thank you.


Moderator

Original Poster,

Please, carry on. Ignore the hidden posts.

That a topic doesn't interest one doesn't give the one right to harass the Op. If you don't find a topic interesting, walk away or don't bother clicking it. There are members that will find the topic interesting and comment meaningfully.

There is nothing wrong with the topic, as far as Car Talk is concerned. Thank you.

Moderator

Ejaay: Mr Ikenna, pls do you think we ll enjoy this car? The guy that sold it seems to be a fraud, dint say the car was RHD changed to LHD.

I forgot to ask, any update the car issue?

Ikenna

Ejaay: Mr Ikenna, pls do you think we ll enjoy this car? The guy that sold it seems to be a fraud, dint say the car was RHD changed to LHD.

Well, some people drive these RHD converted Peugeots and are ok with them. It could be that the conversions were done well or do not mind issues that come with them. So the definition of "enjoy" in this matter is what am not in a position to give you, since i don't drive one, even though i work on them.

As for the deception, it happens all the time. Once a dishonest dealer finds out you are JJC in RHD converted Peugeots, he/she will use that undue advantage to rip you off. A lot people have bought Peugeots thinking they were buying factory LHD, not knowing they were converted ones. Some on the other hand would ask for the converted ones since they are cheaper.

Good morning.

Ikenna

French & Italian Car Show, Los Angeles, USA - 2013


http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2727-french-italian-car-show-los-angeles-2013/



Ikenna

aejaywhite: Good day Ikenna
"06 cannot accelerate above 110km/hr. my mechanic had to buy 'half engine' cos the car had shown signs of engine-knock. he cleaned the noozles and changed plugs but still the acceleration is nt impressive. Climibing slopes isnt a pleasant experience anymore. Please wat could be the problem?

What did scan tool showed was/were the culprit ? Because an injection issue(s) will give similar symptom, which have no business with the engine.

A failed downstream sensor will give the same symptom if the system is Euro IV emission programming. A failed CTS in Bosch ME7 4.6 will give the same symptom in 406 v6 & 607 v6 too. That your car is running slugglishly or lost power does not mean the engine is the culprit.

Have you scanned the 206 with PP2000 ?

Ikenna

Thread locked for Plagiarism.

Ikenna

Op,

If you want my attention or opinion on your question, Peugeot products or any Peugeot car issues in this Car Talk section of this forum, get it here:

https://www.nairaland.com/1003701/peugeot-thread-psa-community/38


Sorry, I have my reasons. Besides, your question has been treated in that house, if you care to start from the beginning of the thread. You will get the answer you seek for and more.

Ikenna.

An Article on Peugeot 504 V6, on 08/11/2013

Enjoy!

http://www.autoweek.com/article/20131108/CARNEWS01/131109850



Ikenna

mitwitdot: @ikenna351

The oil level is still constant. Topped it up based on the advise of a mechanic but the noise persist. Please what do u mean by wheel hub? The gear functions properly around 60km/hr but becomes noisy as I accelerate toward 100km/hr.... can I detect the issue from diagnosis?

To isolate the the problem or culprit, take the car for a drive on expressway/highway. Push it till the noise starts. Then depress and hold the clutch pedal down or put it in neutral, without braking or accelerating the car. Let it roll, where it can maintain 100kh/h for a while without gearbox and engine input. If the noise stops, while its on neutral on 100km/h, then the gearbox is the culprit. But if the noise continues, even after the gear has been disengaged from the wheels, then look elsewhere, the transmission is not the culprit. Probably the wheel hub bearing. But note that it depends on how bad the wheel bearing has gone. When it has not gone that bad, it will need the pressure from the transmission on the bearing for the noise to be heard. But as it gets worse, it start making that noise, whether on gear or not, as speed increases.

Another way of knowing if the noise is coming from transmission or wheel bearing is by steering wheel test on high speed. When the noise starts, gradually turn the wheel to the left and gradually to the rght. A failing noisy wheel bearing tend to reduce noise when the steering is turned towards its direction (less pressure ), but will become noisier when the steering is turned to the other direction on high-speed (more pressure on the bearing). This can only tell you if any of the two front wheel bearings is the culprit. The rear wheels can be difficult to detect unless you listen carefully.

Or you can simply jack up the 4 wheels one after the other and shake them up and down. Anyone with noticeable clearance, you have found your culprit.

Meanwhile, I don't know about Nissan, but in Peugeot FWD, there is a bearing that the right side drive shaft pass through, behind the CV joint that enters the differential part of the transmission. The bearing hardly fails. But bearing hates water. Unfortunately, Nigerians like swimming with their cars. So, you may have to add to your list of things to check, but that should be the last.

Good luck.

Ikenna.

mitwitdot: Please house I drive a manual 1.6 liter 2006 nissan sunny which has served well for 7 years (bought new) recently I hear a very noisy hum when 8 Irive above 75km/hr. I can hardly stand the noise if I engage the fifth gear. I understand manual tyranny are built to last foreever, do I have to change mine? The car has jus clocked about 105000 km.

It appears there is no drop of oil in that transmission, hence, the noise.

Did you at any point run the transmission without oil? Because it sounds like the bearings inside are giving up, usually caused by oil starvation or lack of lubrication.

That manual tranny is built to last forever doesn't mean it's designed to run without lubricant. Each time you jump into gullies, there is always a chance that you could hit your oil pan or gearbox on something that could crack any of them. The seals, as they aged, could fail, especially from the bellhousing side, differential or output spline, depending on the configuration (FWD or RWD).

My point is, have you checked if there is oil in the gearbox ? If there is, did you run the transmission without oil for long before you refilled it? Did you at one point use bad oil in it?


By the way, are you sure its not your wheel hub bearing that has failed and making that noise?

Ikenna

samoy: Mr Ikenna, d link U̶̲̥̅̊ gave above was only showing d pictures. Pls, can U̶̲̥̅̊ post a short note on Ħ☺ώ τ̣̣̥ø̲̣̣ remove d PAS fluid. What Iڪ d recommended PAS fluid τ̣̣̥ø̲̣̣ use in D9 Peugeo 406? Happy sunday

Check the link again. The picture of recommended fluid I used for the flush and refill is there.

By the way, it's TOTAL Fluide II-D. A can of it cost N580.

As for description of how to flush and refill Peugeot PAS (am not sure of other car brands) in note, I will find them to do the explanation against each pictures when I have the time. That was why I spaced each of the pics to take the notes.

Ikenna.

Update On My SV D9 PAS Fluid Flush/Refill

Yesterday, I didn't bother to take the car for a test, after the flushing and refilling the system with the recommended ATF available. I also made sure I bled the system properly. So this morning, I decided to go for my Sunday Mass with the car. As soon as I started the car and turned the wheel. The response of the steering wheel was out of this world! It turned effortlessly unlike before I had to put a little pressure, which made me do the flush. So light now that with one finger and a little pressure, one can turn the steering wheel, notwithstanding the wider/fat tyres on those wheels.


The car, in fact, all Peugeot V6s, come with Variable ratio Steering, unlike the I4s that comes with the conventional PAS. They can also be regarded as Servotronic or speed sensitive steering. It has an ECU too which works with the transducer on the transmission, otherwise known as Vehicle Speed Sensor. When the vehicle is stationary, the steering wheel will become lighter or softer to turn. But when the car goes into motion, it will maintain the light steering until the speed hits about 70-80 km/h, I think. That is, at that speed, the steering wheel will become heavier to turn. The more the speed you do, the heavier the steering wheel becomes. It is designed to prevent unintended swerving when car is on high speed, because at such speed, a small movement of the steering wheel on conventional PAS could be so sharp that it would respond quicker than it should, which had led to so many accidents. So the variable ration Steering in V6 Peugeots helps to give the direct feel of the wheels to the driver while on high speed. But as soon as the speed reduce to 40 km/h or so, the steering wheel becomes very light to steer again.

The variable ratio steering was introduced for the first time in 1986 in 505 V6 and 505 Turbo Series II. It was also used in 605 V6, but was not used in 605 turbo, I think. The 406 V6, 407 V6 & 607 V6 got it too, while their I4 counterparts got conventional PAS. Though, for some I4 D9, they had a PAS that is controlled by RPM sensor which measures the engine speed, i.e, the higher the rpm, the harder the steering becomes, unlike the V6 that uses transducer which measures the vehicle speed: the higher the speed, the harder the steering becomes. Note the difference.


Since I got my SV D9, the steering wheel feel was not what I expected, considering I know how speed sensitive steering should feel when stationary (one of the things I consider when looking for a car to buy). Besides, I found a green coloured fluid in the PAS reservoir, which could be synthetic or mineral fluid. Yet, Peugeot recommended TOTAL ATF Dexron II in the D9 owners Manual. The gauge was below minimum which was scary, yet I couldn't find any green ATF fluid to top it up to maximum or at least, the minimum level. Even if I do, I do not know if the one inside the car system is synthetic or mineral, since both do come in the green colour as well. Worst case, you do not mix green with red ATF or synthetic with mineral oil. And also, since I didn't know when last the previous owner flushed the fluid (which was obvious that the fluid has been changed, since Peugeot didn't use the green colour ATF in that car from the show room or when new). Luckily, TOTAL ATF Dexron II is available here in Abuja, so I decided it was time to flush the fluid, also as a preventative maintenance. Now, the steering system now works like new.


So, if I were you that didn't know when last the PAS fluid was flushed, not just changed, since you got the car, you better do as I did. It could save you your PAS pump and give you better steering wheel feel. Maybe, if I had driven the car longer with that unknown fluid or fluid that was due for change, It would have cost me the PAS pump.

Ikenna

How to Flush PAS Fluid in D8/D9


Today, 09/11/2013, in the morning, I flushed the PAS fluid (Power Steering Fluid) in my SV D9. I refilled the system with new fluid while in the process.

Am too tired to go into the details on how I did it. But find the details in the link below:

http://peugeotarena.com/how-to-safely-flush-peugeot-406-power-steering-fluid-and-refill-with-new-fluid/


It needs to be done every 2 years or so.

Ikenna

jcshols: @Ikenna,pls respond to my question. Thanks.

RHD converted 407:
It would be better if you get the response on this matter from those that drive RHD converted 407 or 406, since i don't drive one. One thing i know is that you may not enjoy all the gadgets the car comes with, i.e, all the gadgets working as they should. Because, of all the RHD converted 406 & 607 i have worked on, some sockets on their BSI are left disconnected. BSI controls all the electrical gadgets in these cars. So for them not to be connected, whatever those disconnected sockets/wires are supposed to control or report to won't function as it should, if at all they will work. I always get permanent faults stored in their BSI whenever i plug in pp2000 in them. Aside that, generally, they run ok and everyother thing works ok, i think, depending on how good the conversion was done.

As for the auto transmission in the car, we have discussed those transmissions severally here. I know few people that have been driving their Lion with AL4 and ZF 4HP20 for more than a year now without any issues. It could still last them more years. So, it's upto you. The only help i can render on this is to post or send me the VIN to check and tell you which transmission model is in the car.

Good luck.

Ikenna.

GAZZUZZ: hello ikenna i dont know if its just me, but the pics u posted are not displayed i also have a problem with my trip meter on my 406 e10 if i drive normal it works just fine, but when i drive really hard the fuel remaining on the multifunction display rapidly decreases "this is normal for" my problem is when i resume normal driving it does not adjust back just leaves the guage and trip remaining very low it takes the whole night for it to properly re-calibrate. any suggestions? keep up the good work

br Gazzuzz
i

406 with EW10 engine means its D9.

In D9, the Transducer on the transmission signals to BSI the vehicle speed. The BSI then interprets the signal and controls the speedometer with it. Also, it uses the signal been received from Transducer to give you the trip and mpg on the instrument panel & multifunction display screen. So a wrong signal from the transducer will disrupt the feedback you will get on the speedo and the rest. The Transducer on the BSI D9 has 3-wire connector.

The D8 lacks BSI. The D8 Transducer has 2-wire connector. The D8 transducer signals to an Interface box, directly behind the Glove box. The Interface box, in black colour, is what controls the speedo in D8, since it lacks BSI. Most times, when speedo fails or work intermittently in D8, the Interface box is usually the culprit. While in D9, a faulty speedo is usually caused by a failing Transducer.

**Note that not all D9 have BSI, especially the earlier D9. Some 1999 and 2000 model D9 do not have BSI. One of the ways to Know if yours have BSI is to check behind the Glove box. If you find the Interface box there, then yours lack BSI. But for V6, a non BSI D9 will have two boxes behind the Glove box. One will be the Interface box, while the other will be the Servotronic relay(ECU) that controls the variable ratio steering of the V6. "Servotronic" is boldly labelled on it. Other ways of knowing if your have BSI is by checking under the steering wheel, behind the fuse box, where the BSI is located. Or you plug in PP2000.

Now, am not sure I understand your question clearly. But I hope you were not referring to last km done or average mpg that display on that screen with the sign <<<< ? Otherwise, you may have to plug in PP2000 to know if the Transducer is the cause of the problem.

Ikenna.

oyinbogirl: Gee - what makes you feel I am even a little bit confused? Thats very weird...hmmm Anyway - Did I say my car is burning oil cos I ran it low on oil?? It seems like you have just assume.... but however I did not even mention the reason behind its using oil, simply because it isnt relevant to this posters topic. . I do not do any of the things you mentioned - Y will I? Am not that sort of owner or driver. I have sense enough to make things last. I am the 2nd owner of my car. so unfortunately didnt get to do any of the initial driving in. I dont say everyone with a car with higher mileage should change their oil more frequently I said it depends on factors. take certain factors into account when deciding at what intervals to change the oil.

All I advised the poster was to go on logbook recommedations, and, basing things off that. He could HALVE the interval based on a few things such as engine condition, driving conditions, and kms total if he wanted to - worn engines DO use oil - its an undeniable fact. The older something gets , the more wear is gonna happen, isnt it? But if you've cared for it well, and it isnt burning off oil , me myself would leave oil change as per normal time Dats all.......same advice as I'd give to anyone. ...so whats your yarn all about anyway? Irrelevant !

Without seeing your username, your above post is obvious that it came from a female. Probably you were standing Akimbo when you were typing that post.

Now, my own time to rant. My post you reacted to was trying to tell you something. That when engine loses what makes it prevent friction in the moving parts inside the engine that need constant lubrication when engine is running, because of longer interval in oil change/loss of viscosity, as you claimed, then the engine would die before you will have time to observe oil burning. There would be a severe friction on the crank journals, bearings, main bearing, Camshafts, etc, which would lead to a sudden death of the engine. So oil burning should be the least of your worries if you are claiming that changing your engine oil at recommended interval would lead to cylinder failures.

By the way, I didn't say cars with high mileage cannot burn oil. Even a badly used low mileage car or abused engine with low mileage may burn oil as well. But I was trying to tell you that an engine that burns oil doesn't mean oil duration of oil change should be reduced. Top up with the same oil grade in the engine till its due or you rebuild it.

So does my yarn still sound irrelevant?

Ikenna.

ray collins: Waitin

Honestly, I really don't know what you are waiting for. Is it that your fuel gauge is going down fast or that upstream sensor fault keeps coming back after you have replaced the sensor? Have you made an attempt on what i explained earlier to you on how to rule out or identify the cause of the error code that has refused to go off?

By the way, did you erase the fault/error code from the ECU with your scanner after replacing the upstream sensor?

Ikenna.

@ nelojay, ^^^^

Please, I hope your above posts are not someone's write up that you copied and pasted here without quoting them or providing the sources. So if they are not yours, link the source(s) or you get banned, if I eventually find out. No Plagiarism in Car Talk.


Moderator

ray collins,

Stop looking for those clowns to cause more harm for the vehicle. As far as am concerned, you are doing just fine with your diagnosis. All you need is patience, time and guidance.

Now, that the ECU is reporting a fault with the upstream sensor, does not mean the sensor is faulty. Its only telling you something is wrong at that end. Its left for you to find out what actually is the problem. I wouldn't blame you for replacing the upstream sensor the first time, because of the code you got, but I would have tested the sensor when you realised that the fault didn't go away after the replacement. Don't rely so much on what a scan tool tells you.

Since I do not know much about Toyota injection system, I will use Peugeot injection systems to explain what you need to do on this issue.

o2 Heater Power source: Peugeot use Universal oxygen sensor for their injection systems (except few older Peugeot EFI systems). And Bosch brand only. By universal sensor, I mean 4-wire o2 sensor. Now the Bosch oxygen sensor has a heater. The heater has ground and 12v+ wires (2 out of the 4 wires on the sensor). Some of their EFI systems have their o2 heater power source 12v+ from relays, while some are powered directly from the ECU. So, if the heater relay fails, the heater wont get its 12v+, meaning the sensor wont work. So, you need a Digital MultiMeter (DMM) to test that wire with ignition or engine running, to be sure the heater on the sensor is still been powered (still receiving the 12v+ and ground). Whatever you find, will tell you whether to rule out heater power source or fix the power source.

o2 ECU signal wire: Did it occur to you that there could be dis-communication between the o2 and the ECU via the signal wire? You need to check the continuity of that signal wire from the sensor to the ECU wiring connector with DMM. I know two methods of checking continuity with DMM, but its going to take me a lot of time, if not part of the night to explain them. Do you know how to use DMM? Connectors could corrode, hence, ECU would be receiving incomplete or no values from the sensors. Rodents could eat or chop off those wiring harness, 1 or 2 wires, which would lead to loss of signals from the sensors those wires are connected to. So, test the ECU signal wire continuity, including the two ground wires to the o2, assuming yours is 4-wire o2 sensor.

ECU or o2 sensor: The cause. The LH2-2 (Jetronic) of my Baby works like this: The Injection ECU, through the ECU signal wire, sends about 1.5v to the o2 sensor. Then, the Bosch 02, through the same signal wire, sends about 64 millivolts to the Injection ECU. This result can be attained when the signal wire is disconnected in btween the o2 and the Injection ECU (on the o2 connector, if you like). It works like a thermistor (CTS). So the o2 is supposed to reduce the higher values the ECU is sending to it and return a lower value as the system warms and CTS gradually reduce consumption (with the help of heater part of the o2 sensor, though). So, when the two sides of the signal wires are joined together, you should be getting on your DMM about .80v or so, less than what you will get on the ECU side when the signal wire is disconnected. So, am not sure of Toyota, but for my LH2-2 system, anything more than 1v when the 2 wires are connected would mean the sensor is faulty, since its supposed to reduce the values the ECU sends to it and return the reduced value back to ECU. Also, if the ECU fails to send any value to the sensor, even though the sensor is sending the .64 millivolts, then either the ECU is faulty or there is a dis-communication somewhere on the wire. Likewise, if o2 sensor fails to give about 64 millivolts, then its not working. Note that not all DMM have millivolts function.

If you can carry out the above test on the car, you will know if the o2 sensor is the culprit or the ECU, including the wires with which the 2 components communicate with each other, and the heater relay, if any.


If you do not have the wiring diagram/schematics of that car, it's time to get one. Good luck!


Ikenna.

elektra80: Some people on this site are very quick to condemn automatic cars and think its dummies that drive automatics just because they drive a manual car from abuja to Enugu.

Is your life so bitter that all you can think whenever you wake up is "Car Talk, Ikenna351 and how to tarnish Ikenna's reputation in Car Talk"?

For months now, all you have been doing in Car Talk is "any post or thread Ikenna351 is mentioned so that you paint him black, discredit him,etc"? Any Thread Ikenna starts, you jump in, look for a fault to discredit or show the world how Ikenna is not what he claims he is. Even topics or posts Ikenna didn't contribute anything, you still point out there negatives about Ikenna. What kind of person are you? Are you really such a bitter person? A man for that matter?

Take a look at most of your recent posts. A day you didn't post negative comments about Ikenna, you will not sleep. I have beginning wonder why would a fellow man be so bitter about another fellow man that he goes around posting negatives or trying to tell the world how wrong his fellow man has been. Are you doing all these to seek some kind of attention from me or Car Talk members? Attention? Have I ever said I find my fellow men attractive here? If not, what's your purpose? Because its becoming disgusting to me, not just shameful, for a fellow man be tailing his fellow man behind. Or you call Car Talk competition, where you have to tarnish my name so that you become popular or what? Am still trying to understand your end game. Because it has been going on for months and it's no longer funny.

A member, gist4real, about an hour ago, posted his opinion on manual vs auto transmission. But you couldn't hold your bitterness if you didn't reply his post without condemning Ikenna first. What does gist4real opinion got to do with Ikenna that you couldn't hold yourself but remember how wrong was? Honestly, you don't need only help, but prayers. Because I wonder what people around you go through, if you can be this bitter about someone online you haven't even met. Honestly, it wont be difficult for you to give me poison if you have the chance. You must be hating yourself that I still breath.

Those who are observant must have known what has been going on. Some,probably are enjoying electra80 negative comments about me. Of course, some may have been waiting for me to react so that I would be attacked of been too harsh, arrogant, name them. This is not the first time. But I will say this, I don't find it funny to be personally attacked for months from an individual. I cant keep ignoring such attack because am a moderator. Yes, I could ignore some slights or insults, but not when an individual has made it a duty for months. So electra80, whatever your mission, with regards to me is, am not interested in my fellow men sexually, am not competing with anyone in case you think you need to bring me down to rise or whatever that have made you so bitter about me. Make no mistake, my patience may run one day if you continue your mission. The day that happens, I will remind you that as a moderator, even if I do not see insults on other members, I see mine each time I log in here. It has gone on for a long time and has become too personal for me to ignore again, even if that what will take me off this section as a moderator and a member.

Ikenna