₦airaland Forum

Hondajosh:
Oxygen(02) sensor available for your Honda and Acura

How much is 02 sensor for Acura RDX 2009?

dipoolowoo:
MTN Nigeria Makes N205bn Profit, to Pay Investors N5.90 Dividend
https://businesspost.ng/economy/mtn-nigeria-makes-n205bn-profit-to-pay-investors-n5-90-dividend/

CBN, NAICOM to Determine Dividend, Bonus Shares for FCMB, AIICO Shareholders
https://businesspost.ng/economy/cbn-naicom-to-determine-dividend-bonus-shares-for-fcmb-aiico-shareholders/

Unilever Nigeria to Conclude Unbundling of Tea Business Soon
https://businesspost.ng/economy/unilever-nigeria-to-conclude-unbundling-of-tea-business-soon/

Dangote Refinery to be Ready Q1 2022, to Get Crude Oil in Naira
https://businesspost.ng/economy/dangote-refinery-to-be-ready-q1-2022-to-get-crude-oil-in-naira/

That does not seem to be good enough kee. Someone said it was too diluted I guess the person has a point.

olopan:
The effect can't really be noticed instantly sometimes

Except one goes head on to compare both in the same location and area just like victron did in Romania

From my personal experience I have discovered tier 1 trump over tier 2 in

1. Daily harvest and yearly harvest. Even if they are both the same capacity

2. They hit peak production for several times of a daily power production ..

3. Many tier 1, I observe works 58-73% efficiency of their power when at maximum and more predominant around 60-63% ... Could be more but maybe not observed while tier 2 works between 45-65% maximum that I have observed but mostly 50-55% is predominately constant

My prime and sunfit has classA/tier 1 written on them. However yes some panels may perform better than others, for me, it's like how naija value Toyota Vs other brands.

Still available

Hello please how much is infiniti G25 2012 or G37 2012 front bumper and Headlamp?

earthrealm:
prime is the younger cheaper brother of yingli...cheaper by a few thousand naira, wonder why you didnt go outright for yingli. my yingli kicks a,ss

Could not find yingli at that time but prime delivery has been superb as well unless you pull 5x with yingli.

IYGEAL:
By these, do you mean doing x3 the capacity? Like 200W doing 600 or 800w?

Daily hervest in kWh, not name plate. So I have 5.2kw array and it does over 17kwh daily

olopan:
The brand's that are Tier 1 are many but I will list a few that are peculiar to Nigeria

Jinko
Canadian
J.A
Trina
Risen

As regards your storage, you will need minimum of around 9.6KWh to run your preferred loads

Problem is 3KW inbuilt charge controller will not fully charge your battery so inclusion of an extra charge controller is needed but with lithium batteries you will need a 5KW inverter hybrid to slap the solar panel on without an problem.

Curious to see what the "tier 1" generation log looks like. I have both prime(yingli cousin) 380x7 and sunfit 280x9 with orientation a little bit more on the side of prime yet both are doing 3x easily. They do burst to 4x occasionally on sunny days.

seyisanya:
More specifically, your bid volume will be emboldened!

Yeah if you are using the web browser not when using the app.

yMcy56:
Good observation!
Those Meristem users have the carriage of "we are above issues" because they pay higher fees and believed their broker is the best......

Thank God it's not Morgan, you would have read different 'mockery' comments like......."when you like cheap things", what do you expect when you pay so low for a service,.........etc.

I can remember one time like that: Someone came to make inquiry of which broker to use and he mentioned the likely big amount he wished to invest.........they "cropped" Morgan out and were mentioning the likes of Stanbic, Meristem............na me come say hahaaa, why you no mention Morgan Capital nah? I come mention am........

You get mouth thank you for the complements, na turn by turn

MonsieurCoder:
I have had this kind of experience. How do you see your bids on the NSE platform?

You just observe the live feed immediately you bid, the number on the stock should increase by at least your bid amount

I have a Acura RDX 2009 that is displaying a section of the dashboard backlight. It basically affects the middle section (pics attached) and all the buttons don't have their backlights though all the buttons function well. Have checked the manual but nothing there was helpful. Anyone with a possible solution?

Edit: resolved, in my case it was the fuse

megawealth01:
Meristem is very good na... I use them na... Na their commission be premium

Bros that their commission no be ham. I also had an experience yesterday, my bids were not hitting NSE even though it's listed on meritrade platform. Had to contact them before it was fixed, imagine thinking one has bidded not knowing that noting happened

ojeysky:
I have got 2 brand new BMV 712 with temp sensor for grabs. 125k each

Q/A
Is this the victron BMV 712 with Bluetooth features?
Yes
Is the price negotiable?
No price is firm Sir/Ma
Does the price include shipping?
No it doesn't, but I can waybill to any part of the country at buyer's cost.

Still available

NB dividends is lesser than ucap yet the share prices are miles apart

NiyiOmoIyunade:
My Oga. Finally we have your confession

It's not the first time I mentioned it as a possible cause Oga. I wasn't home when it happened but I know I had an aggressive equalisation plan set-up and it's the only thing I know was newly introduced before I left. The sign of a burnt section on the board also further makes me gave the impression.

A battery disconnect due to BMS HVD limit reached should not kill an inverter.

There are many scenarios where inverter could be doing heavy work and the DC side disconnects due to low battery, DC breaker trip due to overload e.t.c The inverter should recover from these gracefully.

I know the tolerances on the internals for these Axpert types are relatively poor although they keep making improvements - a capable person can also perform hardware upgrades - beefier capacitors, changing the fan e.t.c

Yes it shouldn't as indeed I have had battery disconnect due to HV on the same MPP many times without issues, just that the one that cause issue was with equalisation. Would a victron have done a better job maybe. However that's not the point, I have only stated what happened to mine. If any axpert user wants to prove me wrong they can continue to use equalisation for their LFP else they learn from my experience.

Peterlove11:
Please what was the cause

Was using a relatively aggressive equalisation on LFP, made the BMS react in a way that impacted the inverter. It was after I learnt you don't equalise LFP or at least not at high voltage and not prolonged.

IYGEAL:
So, how does one know which inverter is an axpert variant?

Structural design and interface will give you a clue

adrusa:
But your MPP also had a problem at a time and you had to replace the board. I still believe that the best inverters to buy are the first tier makers like Outback (I have a 7-year old outback), Victron, Schneider etc. I currently have a Felicity hybrid running for several months, but I bought it with low expectations. But, it has been fine so far. Caveat: It is only inverting, rarely charging with electricity and never connected solar panels to it.

That's right at least I have an idea of the cause and thanks to MPP replacement warranty. Nevertheless those "first tier" are sure thing so long as the user's budget is sure as well

ebocoms:
Reason I'm looking for something different from Axpert family before buying another one.

Yet there are many that are still running theirs for years. Ofcourse we can't expect axperts to perform like the high end Victrons, Deye etc just as they are not in same price range either. Having used both MPP and Deye I will still recommend them depending on customer packet.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
You are essentially trying to simulate ESS like behaviour with cheaper DIY components.

ESS comes natively bundled with Victron and other solid inverters once you buy the required GX control.

You may get finer control of your system if you incorporate HomeAssistant as @Ojeysky and @Adrusa are doing.

Someone on this thread read your post and challenged me to implement a good ESS with a basic inverter and sensors so now I am in trouble

I will still reach out to my Ogas Ojeysky and Adrusa for some insights.

My current struggle is an optimal powersharing algorithm e.g in a Victron ESS, if the loads called for 5kw while solar can only give 4.5kw, ESS would smoothly source the extra 500w from grid and drop grid use once loads drop or solar increases to catchup. If I try to DIY this behaviour, I can only turn on grid to assist and grid will override PV production to provide the needed 5kw directly from grid! The inverter is essentially pass through once grid is in use. Clearly this is not optimal as 4.5kw of PV is available for use - PHCN bills will be higher than they need to be and solar production will be wasted in this DIY solution.

I probed further and can see clearly that the native ESS in a Victron for example works so well because the internals can sync with the grid and combine power from AC (grid or gen) and DC (solar and battery) to feed a load. The ESS can take just the exact amount of extra energy needed from grid and therefore maximise PV usage and minimise energy bills. This is indeed the engineering miracle that justifies the price tag.

Still I have to cook up something acceptable with DIY parts as I was commissioned to do.

Normally the common axpert variants should do prioritization if there is a "solar first" option. In that case no need for any external automation. When I used MPP, with solar first if the grid is on and load is more than solar input it takes the rest from grid i.e if the rest is 500w it takes it all but it can't take 300 from grid and 200w from battery so what those inverters cannot do is taking specific X power from grid, solar and the rest from battery. That's what Deye (and I believe victron?) could do easily.

I now use node-red and morbus to read my data on Deye and push to emoncms via mqtt. I have not seen anything yet to automate on Deye because the settings is quite flexible. Only use the data from BMV/Deye to automate other things basically my sonoff switches.

Edit: I should add that axpert variants that I have experienced, behaves this way after after battery is fully charged

durodee:
No I have not done a capacity testing myself. I don't know if Ojeysky might help in that regards since I got the battery off him a few months back.

Which of the batteries? The 200AH battery pack or the 280AH cells? For the former I got about 175AH at 25v and for the later I have not pushed it that much, highest I have done is 250AH unfortunately I didn't take screenshot but attached is screenshot when I used 560AH 24v setup

megawealth01:
I'm waiting for Guinesss to drop theirs... E sure say the price will be corrected to #10+

Lol I don't think Guinness will go down to 10 o but that stock tied my cash down small sha until I found exit. May re-enter if the opportunity show

alien1:
Greetings house,
Will a 2pcs of 300watts solar panel with a charge controller power a 1hp water pump directly by bypassing the connection of a battery bank?
Is it doable during a hot sun?

First the combined power from the panels will be insufficient to power a 1hp pump, secondly, unless you are using a DC powered pump don't even attempt it with AC pumps

IYGEAL:
UPDATE

Turns out the problem with my lithium set up was apparently the low input power from my pv array and/or the wiring.

Yesterday, I did two things.

1. I previously used 2.5mm Comester cable to run the PV to CC connection on 8s1p arrangement. So, I still used the same cable, but being a 3-strand wire, I used two strands to run the +ve terminal and the other strand for the -ve.

2. I left the battery unused after it dropped to 26.4v as usual, having fluctuated between 26.4 and 26.8v all day.

So when I put it back to charge, it crossed the 26v mark and into 27 to 29+. At a point, it reached 30v, which prompted me to change the bulk voltage to 29v. At these high voltage range, and with the sun very bright, the input current decreased to some milliamps (I think at this point the battery was fully charged). I reduced the bulk to 28.4V and float to 27.2V


At the end of the day, the battery rested at 26.8V.

@Ojesky hinted my panels may not be charging the battery enough. I think that's correct.

Many thanks to Ojesky and @EarthRealm for your inputs and suggestions.

I'd be leaving the settings at Bulk Voltage = 28.4V and Float at 27.2V. I hope these are not high.

Folks quote my moniker wrongly so sorry if I don't respond. To your question, from all indication it seem you inverter does not have the float bug? Since that is the case I will set bulk at between 27.6 and .8 while float will remain at 27v.
When you make that settings check the inverter to confirm if it passes the 27v while charging

ojeysky:
A few Sonoff R3 Basic still available for grabs. Turn your appliances to a smart device. Attached is a sample application with my AC. Each switch has a 2.2kw capacity

Still available

Ride still very much available

Still available at the give way price

TamyFire:
4.4m

Please reach me on WhatsApp

omotoda:
@ojesky, you mentioned something about sunfut panels sometime back .Inknow you said it in as over performing.Is the experience still same?Someone trying to go the route of their panels and battery's. Told him battery,he is on his own!.Panel I can help him find out

I use both sunfit and prime and both of them do a very good job. Though prime does a better job than sunfit. I use to see other sunfit products but am sorry I don't have their performance experience

IYGEAL:
Okay. I'd try. I am running a load of 65 Watts now and the battery is 26.3v (it returned to 26.4v after all the charging).

I'd record when it trips off on this load.

I think I'd be better off returning the bank if it continues misbehaving.

That's going to take a long time, find a day to put at least 200w constant load so the test can be concluded in a few hours. Remember your battery needs to be full before you proceed, 26.4 does not necessarily mean full. It needs to get to a point when it stopped receiving charge it is after that you should start the test.

Fwiw its not that the stuff is misbehaving, at least you've not confirmed that yet.

IYGEAL:
Does this mean that from 26.4v is about 90%? The load throughout was less than 100W and when it reaches 25.5 or so, it takes a few minutes and it's tripped off.


How is this done? Any external tools needed?

Assuming the cell voltage is balanced 26.4 at no load should be about 80% SOC. For it to trip off at 25.5v then it means one of the cells got low which is an indication of unbalanced cells

You need something similar to victron BMV to get actual capacity. There is a cheaper one that was shared in previous thread. However you can estimate, charge to full then put load of known consumption, don't change the load until the battery goes off, the duration it took can give you a very rough idea of the capacity.