₦airaland Forum

Jefferyzz:
If u sabi any authorized dealers kindly drop contact. Copy of luminous dey market too

Sorry I don't.....

osayuwamwen:
I want to buy flooded tabular battery what is the best and most reliable brand for 220ah and also 1.5kva or 1.7kva inverter 12v?

Tubular batteries are good, mine will be 4 years of usage soon. And they are still running like when I installed them. Get original luminous tubular battery. It's good quality and will serve you along while. I don't have trust in AGM or gel batteries due to experience of people around me, you are lucky to get 3 years out of them except you are meticulous in managing them

Any inverter installer in Abeokuta.....please I need his/her contact

tonididdy:
Jesu! Microwave even
If you not buy new batteries this year or next please ban me from NL forever. I just figured you’re a mod

Friend, he is not entirely wrong. Have been using solar more than 3 years. And the batteries are still running strong. It powers my whole house. I pump, iron, cook and do everything on it. It's all about good management of your inverter-battery system. I don't advice people to do what I do with my system. But me, I don't care.

temitimx19:
Thanks for the feedback, how many batteries and solar panels do you use with yours, I am using 4 at the moment, I am still thinking if I use buy 4 extra tubular batteries and 8pcs 400w panels

Am using 4 220ah tubular batteries with 8* 270w solar panels.

temitimx19:
Hello house, can I use 6pcs 12v 220ah tubular batteries with this 5kva inverter ?

That is one strong inverter. Does it primary function well. Mine is 2 years going and reliable. 48v means you need minimum of 4* 12v battery, next 8, 12 etc. Multiple of 4.

Valto:
wickedness in high places

Damn.....is that beach sand inside. After 6 months the battery will give up, and the installer will start wondering what went wrong

TechGeek777:
Thanks, what about your panel config?

8 270w panels configured as 2S4P

TechGeek777:
Do you mind stating your setup (including the Felicity series, idle consumption, battery bank etc).

IVCM(they have newer model IVEM), I don't know but I think it's on the low side, read somewhere it's around 45 to 50w. 4 12v 220ah tubular batteries

735i:
Pardon my ignorance oh.

Will a Phocos 5.5kw with 4 (200ah) batteries conveniently power a 1.5hp inverter AC, an inverter fridge and 2 TV's?

If yes, will i need solar panels too?

What will this set up cost me (excluding panels) and can you assist with the project?

Definitely.....if my 5kva felicity can power our 1.5hp submersible pump comfortably, I don't see why a 5.5kw inverter will be having issues starting any of your above mentioned load. 5kva inverter should be able to power at least 3hp motor load conveniently

Comparison between the solar generation on pip hybrid vs KID
Am surprised the SCC on the pip could keep up with the Midnite classic.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXlbMpIl2Fw

swaey:
Can anyone vouch for justcallmenuel’s credibility ..trying to get lithium batteries from him but I’m not in Lagos .

Have bought a product from him....he is reliable

Habeebpain:
Hello! Please can someone tell me the best current to charge a 220Ah battery (luminous Inverlast)?
Also, what maximum and minimum battery voltage should one set the inverter to?
Thanks

I dont know the best charge setting but I use max 30amps for my 220ah batteries. I discovered they don't like fast cooking. They prefer slow, steady charge.

Oshomo12:
How long have you used it this way?
Tubular, noooo. Enough gases we inhale already. I can not come and kill myself.

2 years

isangjohnson:
Oga a friend need your contact

Have sent you a mail with my number attached

isangjohnson:
Oga a friend need your contact

I saw your mail but didn't know how to respond to nairaland mail

olopan:
It has a power factor of 0.7

Meaning you have 3500W inverter.

What's the implications of power factor. Always thought power factor is majorly determined by the load not the inverter

zeestone99:
Even the metal rack suffer rust, if the inverter is directly on top of the rack where gasses hit the bottom part. The bottom part of the inverter will suffer rust as in serious one.

Immediately after reading this, had to go and check under my inverter if their is any rust because it's directly installed over my batteries(tubular). No rust for now. Well will look into this.

earthrealm:
I DEcided not to comment again on the sorotec inverter isssh, am not the owner of sorotec, neither am i a part owner, nor does sorotec pay my bills in anyway, so he is free to port to any other inverter model that gives him joy---though am certain most low end HF inverters would also fail if subjected to the loads he described. Sorotec unfortunately only has a 1yr waranty and due to difficulties in tracking claims, this waranty is tied to the date of manufacture on the body of the inverter.

growatt cost almost twice as much as sorotec\, and have an office in nigeria, but they footdrag and delay when it comes to waranty claims and repairs.
felicity also has an office in nigeria, and from what i have heard, have better waranty claims turn around period.

Felicity is good....they honor warranty, and there inverter is strong. I have been using their 5kva hybrid going to 2 years 24/7. I cook daily with it, iron, pump water,microwave and power my whole flat with it. It's reliable. It might not have the bell and whistles of expensive inverter brand but it works

mangolpupa:
Assuming you bought the MusT inverter for 360k and the cost of repairing that board is nearing half of the cost (180k). I will be favorably disposed to getting a new "better" quality hybrid inverter than spend that much repairing the board. Reason is that there is no guarantee that board wont go bad again.

If you ever decide to go for a new inverter, my advise is to make sure you are getting one with a good history of performance/service you can verify to an extent or even better from an authorized dealer if possible. Buying from an authorized dealer will have some advantages like some form of warranty or after sales service. Often times in our country, as a general statement, Items gets worse after visiting repair shops, so weigh your options wisely.

More importantly find out what caused the last issue with the inverter: was it a surge or bad connection or what? Then what could you have done to stop it from happening should be the next question. If you don't identify the cause of the last mishap, even a repaired or new inverter will sooner or later go through the same issue.

He can get felicity.....they fix my inverter free of charge under warranty. They have an office in Lagos

vivalavida:
Good day bro. I drive an acura tsx 2008 model. I have this check engine light on. I have scanned with my Bluetooth scanner but it tells me no OBD fault found. I have an increased fuel consumption.
I proceeded to do a smog check and I am seeing a pending code there but it has refused to show me the pending code. I want to share the result of the smog check. I pray you and other technicians in the house can tell me how to go about tackling it from there.
@autoelectng, please come in too.

Catalyst and oxygen sensor systems not ready show that the check engine light has been cleared.....you need to drive some miles, if their is any pending code it will come back

LexusIS:
Hi nairaland I happen to drive a 2jz lexus IS 300 ,but since I got the car,af been riding through massive potholes,after six months my passengers ball joint came off,I repaired it,it came off again after 1 week,then I bought tokunbor,after sometime I felt the steering keeps tilting to the left and right,then 3 months ago,I went to lagbowo and bought brand new ball joints. Before today,I had been hearing some squeaky sound from the steering and passenger side. I ignored it and felt it was my tie rod. Took it to alignment shop for repair. It was repaired,then the sound worsened. I drove it like that for 1 week,but my front tyres kept eating out. So today I made up my mind to go to gate with my guy. The person selling tie rod came for inspection and said its my power steering. I argued withbhim that if my power steering has issues,my steering will be hard to turn,he then said its my ball joints,that it's not good. I also argued with him that my ball joints,ibjust bought them brand new,not tokunbor. 2 weeks ago,the total alignment guys at eleyele said its my ball joint. That it's not good. I also argued that I bought brand new ball joint today I drove almost 140kph and my ball joints didn't come out. Not up to 30 mins ago as I was going out on slow movement,I climbed a big stone and gbam,I heard a loud noise,my ball joint passenger side came out the third time . From the brand new ball joint I bought. I have called my mechanic and he said he will be thr tomorrow to fix,so the tokunbor I removed is what I would be putting back. Pls what's the solution to this. Should I order direct from ebay,or I should buy tokunbor again. I'm fed up last week I was laughing at a lexus es 350 09 model when his ball joint driver side came out while at medium speed. Not knowing my own was this evening, damaging my fender. The ball joint ,that looks like a circle ,came off,leaving the rest of the ball joint body to the ground and also my car refused to reverse,or even move our of the way cos I am now blocking entrance to my estate. Is this how lexus behaves. I have seen lexus IS 250,lexus es 350 and even toyota 4runner ball joint come off. Is it cos of pot holes or the brand new ball joint I bought was fake . The tokunbo own I have is still intact,but I'm now worried. Why does my ball join come off. Attached is the pic of my tie rod left and right I repaired a week ago. Now my fender has damaged,damaged my fender paint. I'm fed up

Nawa oo.....thought it's only Honda that pulls. Maintaining cars in Nigeria is like Maintaining a woman. Whether you like it or not, you must collect. Our roads are terrible and it's largely the major contributing factor

J0hnTrevolt:
Gratitude!

Were you able to fix the outrageous fuel consumption?

Bignat:
Good Day house and Honda expert.

I recently purchased a Honda pilot 06 model that was purchased 2020 from someone leaving the country and I need professional advice on steps in taking care of the vehicle.

He uses Total 0w20 engine oil and he says he does that twice a year. The car was driven from Abuja to Asaba and the oil life is at 60% at the moment.

The VSA, VTM-4, Check engine, caution, and Tpms lights are on. The vsa and VTM-4 comes on after a while driving. The tmps comes on occasionally.

The check engine light stays constant but starts to blink when I accelerate very fast and goes back to being steady when decelerate.

Also when I accelerate from gear one, it tends to delay a bit then picks up and it takes a little longer to change to gear 2.

The first scan done while in Abuja had the reports in the picture below.

1. I want to know the best steps to take in getting these issues resolved before heading to my mechanic here in Asaba.

2. Should I replace the timing belt, change the transmission oil, power steering oil and deferential oil spine I don't have a complete maintenance history from the previous owner.

Please note that the engine and gear box have not being worked upon before and all wiring harness are still intact.

Your car will be consuming fuel with those codes pasted, How many litres of fuel took you to Asaba?. Check if the Air/fuel ratio sensors are properly connected, and If they are,you might need to change the sensor for bank 1.
Concerning the long delay in transmission shift, you might need to change the ATF to Honda recommended fluid. I think it will help

Had same issue when I just got my car about 3yrs ago, called a rewire and he removed something from the transmission side, I assumed is filter. He said it's heavily dirty and clogged, bought petrol and clean it. Have not had that issue since then. Clogged transmission filter can also cause this, and it's an easy fix.

Dozieson:
The mechanic has tampered with your airflow meter and O2 sensor Bro. Just go and buy a new one. Don't tamper your ECU anyhow o.

Don't change parts that are not bad pls

Were those codes there before the mechanic work?

No.....they are new codes

earthrealm:
Fill it 3/4 full with fresh tiger nut and add 1 teacup of water, and blend till smooth.

Lol.....I doubt any blender could do that except 'Ero-Ata'. Even the infamous silvercrest will kaput

Kokomo:
If after checking all the sensors and you still can not figure it out, I will suggest you test with another ECM, this happpen to my Honda Civic

Alright.....thanks

Dozieson:
Were you there when the mechanic changed the thermostat?

Are you sure he has not stolen/damage your MAF or Oxygen sensor?

I fear mechanics oo

I went to work, by the time I came back the thermostat had been changed. He even discovered a little almost insignificant hose(coolant) leak connecting the radiator to the engine side. He bought a new clip and tightened the hose.

I have been driving my pilot for more than 3yrs, recently i noticed it started drinking fuel than before, after taking it to my mechanic he recommended I change thermostat that it's not getting to the optimal engine temperature. After changing the thermostat, the car threw out p0172, p0175 (system bank 1 and 2 running rich) codes. We've been trying to get to the root cause, any help will be appreciated. The car drives well

eginaP:
I currently drive a Camry 2007, and I intend to replace it with an SUV, A highlander 2009 or a Pilot 2011.

I need advise on which of the cars to go for, especially considering the Nigerian variables like availability of parts, terrible roads etc. also on the car side, I am also concerned about reliability, durability and resell value.

While buying a foreign used (tokunbo) will be my preferred option, financial constraint might push me towards a Nigeria used version, what is your thought on this too?

By the way, I once had an MDX and selling it was a terrible experience, in fact I sold the car at a ridiculous cost due to low resell value.

If resale value....definitely toyota. But me won't even blink twice, I will grab the honda

domack99:
Am driving 2004 MDX with 3.5liter engine capacity and recently i notice my fuel consumption has drop from 15 or 16 MPG on average to 8.1MPG, my daily driving to work is always against the traffic, no change in route and no matter how free the road is i don't get more than 12.1MPG now.

No check engine light or code display to indicate any fault and their is no pending code either.
I trend the Short and Long fuel trim to see if the vehicle is running lean or rich but values seems to be within acceptable range

STFT1 value: -1.6%, STFT2 Value: -0.8% to 1.6%.
LTFT1 Value: -3.1%, LTFT2 Value: -0.8%

AFR Value: 14.7:1, though this fluctuate between 14.5 to 14.8 but more steady at 14.7:1

17MPG is the expected value for city driving but i usually get 15MPG - 16MPG and this has drop to 8.1MPG, everything seems normal except for the MPG. below is the Oxygen sensor graph.

Were you able to fix the fuel consumption