₦airaland Forum

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Lightning can strike in the absence of rain and even during the day too.

One would need a direct line to the gods to predict when lightning could strike and also be present to effect a safe system disconnect in advance.

A working solar system should have at least the minimum protection - at least 2pcs of 6 foot earth rods sunk in the ground 18 feet apart and bonded together and the solar panel frame/rack and charge controller earth point solidly connected to the rods.

At worst the panels/rack frame should connect straight to the rods while there is another cable service from the rods into the house terminated at a busbar or similar arrangement to earth the CCs to.

FEGEITOK:
My very last post on this thread above applies.

As requested ( this is my econo setup)

1. 1 No. 60A MPPT
2. 2 No. 1.5 KVA Inverter
3. 4 No. Quanta 12V 200AH batteries
4. 2 No. Jinko 470W panels (will be increased to 3a soon, then I will have to get another and hopefully more powerful MPPT)

Peterlove11:
8 270w panels configured as 2S4P

Peterlove11:
IVCM(they have newer model IVEM), I don't know but I think it's on the low side, read somewhere it's around 45 to 50w. 4 12v 220ah tubular batteries

FEGEITOK:
By adjusting the tilt of the panels, instead of getting the optimal yield between 12 and 1 pm, I got the optimal yield as early as 10.30 AM. So you care sharing your setup?


I have now turned off utility charging.

I am now limiting myself to PV charging, after all my batteries already say they are full (smiles).

I need more data though. I know I need a watt meter to measure consumption.

What do I use to measure PV output since my econobox MPPT does not log cumulative yield? How much does it cost? Is it available locally?

zeestone99:
For Ac just multiply by 200 to get approx watts. Normally you multiply voltage, current and power factor.

Peterlove11:
Definitely.....if my 5kva felicity can power our 1.5hp submersible pump comfortably, I don't see why a 5.5kw inverter will be having issues starting any of your above mentioned load. 5kva inverter should be able to power at least 3hp motor load conveniently

earthrealm:
Cc techgeek77

@ stabilizer, it depends on the grid voltage supplied by phcn in your area, if above 180v a 5kva stabilizer wud suffice, if below 140v you need a 10/15kva central stab.

The above applies for a 48v inverter.
If yours is 24v, a 5kva inverter would serve ok even at 150v grid supply

Jefferyzz:
1. Yes. Ur inverter AC charge is 40a sheybi. That means a 3kva stab is recommended.
2. Yes. 3s2p will do

Jefferyzz:
I don't understand d first question. Is it that u wantu place a stab between nepa n ur hybrid inverter AC input or u wantu place a stab between ur inverter AC output n ur household load

D second question question is dependant on the max pv input of ur hybrid inverter. But if ur inverter has max voc of 150v. U can do 3s2p.

Dam5reey:
I know IVPS1512 has 10w Noload, I don't know about the higher models

Dam5reey:
You may go for Felicity IVPM5024.

Whytehandy:
Roughly about #800,000

Whytehandy:
Good afternoon house, please I need a recommendation for a good 5KVA 24V smart hybrid inverter with low self-consumption (preferably wallmount type) with lithium charging capacity that I can use for my 1.5Hp inverter AC, fridge, freezer and other basic load like TV, fan and light.

A friend has already helped me to build a 230ah24V lithium battery bank and am also planning to buy at least 2400W solar panels.

I beg help me with the right choice of inverter as I am confused on what to go for. Thanks and God bless.

Muraino19:
Please, who can link me to where I can get socket wattmeter
Call/ WhatsApp 08175528343

Trippledots:
I de alaba like this o... Pix below for legends. If you know you know.

sintolord:
TechGeek777, kindly resend the mail because I did not get it

sintolord:
Mankind 1234, total load of 1.5hp inverter compressor AC used on GEN MODE & a 219liters Thermocool freezer should be less than 2000w (plus freezer surge). How did I abuse it? If a so called well built inverter can not handle a load of abt 2000w out of the rated 3500 inverter capacity, re u saying I should only power LED bubs & DC fans?

Muraino19:
Please, i need 3.2v 50ah, 100ah, lifepo4 cell grade A and Daly BMS 12v, 24v

WhatsApp 08175528343

mangolpupa:
Picture 2 is well suited for that task of measuring a pass through current/voltage.

Picture 1 multimeter is not since you need to establish physical contact.

If you are going to buy any multimeter, try and get an auto-ranging one. its easier and less cumbersome. For the ones in the picture, you really need to know the range of what you are measuring before you get the right feedback from the multimeter.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I am now officially shook at the variety of pumps in circulation and their penchant for eating up insane amounts of energy

But fortunately I have access to quite a few pumps at my own location and customers' too - below is a picture of my 2hp garden irrigation pump - it is 2hp / 7.1a / 1.6kW which is pretty within spec of what 2hp should draw in a normal duty cycle.

To your questions

1) I suppose the Stabilizer has been paired with the pump and working in that application for a bit? - the proof of the pudding is in the eating. I would not normally use a 5kva relay stabilizer with 3.45kw of inductive load as you say the pump consumes but the pump startup surge is just for a few seconds and a decent stabilizer should be indifferent to this surge since the load is just passing through the transformer windings directly.

Is low voltage a real problem in this pump application? Then I would have specced a servo stab with size suitably derated for the lowest operating voltage I expect on the input side of the stab.

2) I cannot say what your pump consumes and the nameplate is just a guide - you have to measure, measure, measure to know what the consumption is. I have encountered some ancient pumps being used out of tolerance but the biggest issue they present is the start up surge tripping up our protection devices - once running they run okay albeit inefficiently.

3) Measure your pump's actual power draw vs the inverter's surge rating to size properly. Already you said you think the pump eats 3.45kW so that would already exceed a 3kW inverter's rated capacity.

4) One of the sad parts of an engineer's training is the loss of certainty and constant calling out of caveats and qualified opinions - a 200a BMS in 24v nominal application SHOULD run ~5kW easy however not all BMS with 200a written on them can do that rating. without problems. Also how was your LFP pack built? How were the cell interconnects made and were they properly torqued tight? This will drive how well the LFP battery pack does with large loads. I belong to a backend forum of LFP battery pack builders and I can assure you failures due to improperly torqued connections are very common although some will refuse to acknowledge this fact. Getting quality cells that can withstand a proper torque and how to deliver that proper torque became the holy grail of our movement.

My own custom LFP builds use an industrial grade machine to deliver an accurate amount of torque to each cell connection. We have not had one single failure or need to go retorque anything in a pack.

If indeed your pump draws 3.45kW, you will be operating pretty close to your battery 1C rating - a well designed pack can carry this load but you may well run out of stored energy if the pump is running for a long time - it were probably best to have some PV assist or Grid or Genny or constrain the pump draw and run time to within the stored energy delivery ability of your battery pack. In other words despite using the much vaunted LFP you probably need a different larger battery or switch to a smaller and more efficient pump for long term stability.

Finally at the risk of serious vitriol and backlash from
a certain set of people, I reiterate that a 1.5hp pump drawing 1.8kw and above is either ancient or inefficient or falsely labelled. When I say inefficient I mean broadly that the pump is either working a harder duty cycle than designed (undersized) or the wrong pump is being used for the application (over powered) amongst several possibilities. In the best case the hp rating should be upgraded to match the actual electrical behaviour of the pump (address misleading labelling) - this is what an informed user or technical person should do vs. trying to reinvent the relationship between various standard measurements of energy and work done.

The fact that something can move/lift liquids does not mean it is the right pump for every application - just as people match inverter to loads, pumps need to be matched to the required duty cycle for an application. Again this is no wonder in a country where people routinely use a 5kVa inverter to run less than 1kW of loads with very brief surges into the 2-3kW range and applaud themselves on how 'robust' their design is or say the hugely oversized inverter is more 'rugged' which is why they chose it.

There! I said what I said ......

NiyiOmoIyunade:
For items 2 and 3 it is best if you used a clamp meter to measure the startup surge and amps draw while the pump runs. This is safer for you as you won't break something by accident.

Just clamp the live wire (only) supplying power to the pump and read the amps - if you happen to have an AC watt meter with CT coil, that can do the job and give you a direct watts reading

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I am now officially shook at the variety of pumps in circulation and their penchant for eating up insane amounts of energy

But fortunately I have access to quite a few pumps at my own location and customers' too - below is a picture of my 2hp garden irrigation pump - it is 2hp / 7.1a / 1.6kW which is pretty within spec of what 2hp should draw in a normal duty cycle.

To your questions

1) I suppose the Stabilizer has been paired with the pump and working in that application for a bit? - the proof of the pudding is in the eating. I would not normally use a 5kva relay stabilizer with 3.45kw of inductive load as you say the pump consumes but the pump startup surge is just for a few seconds and a decent stabilizer should be indifferent to this surge since the load is just passing through the transformer windings directly.

Is low voltage a real problem in this pump application? Yes, anything less than 180v from the stabilizer can't power the pump

Then I would have specced a servo stab with size suitably derated for the lowest operating voltage I expect on the input side of the stab.

2) I cannot say what your pump consumes and the nameplate is just a guide - you have to measure, measure, measure to know what the consumption is. I have encountered some ancient pumps being used out of tolerance but the biggest issue they present is the start up surge tripping up our protection devices - once running they run okay albeit inefficiently.

Since the control box states 15a, if I should connect the wire from the 15amp round socket to the 13a flat socket side of the inverter for measuring purpose, will it blow the fuse?


3) Measure your pump's actual power draw vs the inverter's surge rating to size properly. Already you said you think the pump eats 3.45kW so that would already exceed a 3kW inverter's rated capacity.

This is based on the calculations of Amps (15a) * Volts (230v). I remembered vividly when our electrician brought his 3kva stabilizer to power this pump when the 5kva stabilizer was faulty, and we were able to pump water with it. This also made me to somehow believed the pump is overrated.


4) One of the sad parts of an engineer's training is the loss of certainty and constant calling out of caveats and qualified opinions - a 200a BMS in 24v nominal application SHOULD run ~5kW easy however not all BMS with 200a written on them can do that rating. without problems. Also how was your LFP pack built? How were the cell interconnects made and were they properly torqued tight? This will drive how well the LFP battery pack does with large loads. I belong to a backend forum of LFP battery pack builders and I can assure you failures due to improperly torqued connections are very common although some will refuse to acknowledge this fact. Getting quality cells that can withstand a proper torque and how to deliver that proper torque became the holy grail of our movement.

My own custom LFP builds use an industrial grade machine to deliver an accurate amount of torque to each cell connection. We have not had one single failure or need to go retorque anything in a pack.

If indeed your pump draws 3.45kW, you will be operating pretty close to your battery 1C rating - a well designed pack can carry this load but you may well run out of stored energy if the pump is running for a long time - it were probably best to have some PV assist or Grid or Genny or constrain the pump draw and run time to within the stored energy delivery ability of your battery pack. In other words despite using the much vaunted LFP you probably need a different larger battery or switch to a smaller and more efficient pump for long term stability.

Finally at the risk of serious vitriol and backlash from
a certain set of people, I reiterate that a 1.5hp pump drawing 1.8kw and above is either ancient or inefficient or falsely labelled. When I say inefficient I mean broadly that the pump is either working a harder duty cycle than designed (undersized) or the wrong pump is being used for the application (over powered) amongst several possibilities. In the best case the hp rating should be upgraded to match the actual electrical behaviour of the pump (address misleading labelling) - this is what an informed user or technical person should do vs. trying to reinvent the relationship between various standard measurements of energy and work done.

The fact that something can move/lift liquids does not mean it is the right pump for every application - just as people match inverter to loads, pumps need to be matched to the required duty cycle for an application. Again this is no wonder in a country where people routinely use a 5kVa inverter to run less than 1kW of loads with very brief surges into the 2-3kW range and applaud themselves on how 'robust' their design is or say the hugely oversized inverter is more 'rugged' which is why they chose it.

There! I said what I said ......

NiyiOmoIyunade:
A 1.5hp water pump running at 2kw is either ancient, inefficient or falsely labelled. You should be able to call it what it is for your specific case and not generalise about how all pumps behave.

I have 2pcs of 0.5hp pumps for pressure boost, 1pc 1hp pump for lifting water to the roof and 1pc 2hp pump for running garden sprinklers and irrigation - all these pumps work very close to spec as per wattage.

Quoting verbatim, I said the below about voltage yet you have managed to make it seem like it was not a part of the text you quoted.

I wonder what is your objective in this our back and forth engagement?

drizzypat:
the 5kva inverter hybrid with 140A max cc

drizzypat:
Guys something wierd just happened to my Inverter ryt now and it went off .not displaying at all

So I got closer to d inverter it has a burning smell in fan vents side of my MUST inverter.

I was using my 6.5kva generator to charge it.

It's not turning on now...

I checked the back of my lipo battery it already switched itself off ..like a surge or something

What could be the problem please!

durodee:
Comment on "batteryless" inverters from direct use. They cannot function at full capacity without batteries irrespective of the panels yield. Also while in that mode, any surge demand ( fridge etc) may trip off the inverter. Also be ready for intermittent trips from cloud cover etc as it can only address present demand from solar yield. I ended up reserving that mode for emergencies only.

Valto:
125k

samir101ng:
Bro, something has to give in those your parameters

All-in-one hybrid inverter systems are doing a lot of things and therefore there is a minimum power draw that they must use especially at your price point of N250k. However, checkout the Growatt SPF-3000TL-LVM-24P. It has an idle consumption of 2W from the spec sheet.