₦airaland Forum

If anyone has 280ah or 100ah lifepo4 batteries, kindly quote me. Thanks.

wolfenstein:
Funny enough it's still d same fool that would buy d phone 330k if I change d back glass myself for 15k and advertise it. So which is better?

Think it

Bros! If 15K will repair that phone, you will do it sharpally and make profit. We no stupid o.

Nigeria don suffer. Broken phone for almost 300k. Which kind fool go buy that one? Repair it or sell it cheap.

MontyNG:
Good choice. Based in Alausa, Lagos. Welcome to come check it out. DM

Can I pay 60K for the router?

We are you based? I want to make an offer for the router.

tetralogyfallot:
NO, am talking from experience bro, never connect 2 dissimilar batteries together either parallel or series.

I disagree. In series, No. In parallel, possible. Depends on how dissimilar. In this case, the answer is yes, you can. Flooded batteries are particularly very tolerant. All you may need to do is to keep an eye on the water levels.

edryz:
In absence of a distilled water, can one top a tubular battery with available water at home?

Let me narrate an anecdotal story. I bought Trojan flooded batteries about 7 or 8 years ago. I was topping it up with water from my borehole. Of the eight batteries (6V), 7 are still doing fine, i.e. I'm still running them beside my lithium bank. Because of the impressive performance of my Trojan batteries, a friend bought another set of 4 trojan batteries (12V). He was diligently topping them up with packaged distilled water. His batteries didn't last a year before he sold them off as scraps.

I went to his house one day and I saw his left over distilled water in 4 liter kegs. I brought them home to use with my batteries. But, I became fearful. If my borehole water was okay for my batteries and his own died while consuming distilled water, will it be wise to feed my batteries with the same distilled water?

Short story; the distilled water is still in the kegs, unused and my batteries have continued to drink borehole water. Never used distilled water on them for one day!

emaminaj:
Available

How can it get to Ibadan with pay on delivery. Can pay a small fee for transportation.

Valto:
for those going for cheap unknown batteries

Wow! Ultimate Scam!

mctfopt:
That dude you mentioned is a low-key scam artist. He knows how to take pictures of TVs to make it look inviting while the real deal is so bad you wonder if it's a different tv. Same dude sold TV to a guy I know and it arrived without remote. TV that was touted to be super flat screen appear like the energy guzzler LCD TVs of the early 2000's era. It was supposed to come with remote and he surprisingly "forgot" to add it. Quality of the TV is just poor. At best the owner had to go to a local dealership and got himself a tv. Ended up sending the scrap he sold as 2019 TV to the village. Did I mention that this same fraud waybilled this tv and somehow "forgot" to pay for it even though he has collected the waybill fee?

These days I won't advise anyone to buy tv from that dude or even try any "fairly" used tv as there is no fair deal with em. As usual he'll only read this review and disappear back to his thread without saying jack.

I had a similar experience with the guy and I even opened a thread about his scam. Once in a while, I see new "likes and shares" on my old thread and smile to myself knowing that another "mugu" has entered his trap.

He has many accounts on nairaland to upvote himself and attack those who complain about his scams. I believe that is why he has survived so far. For me, he sold a 55" LG to me for 170K some years back. He brought the TV down himself protectively packed like a dead body. When we set the TV up, it had several thick and unsightly lines which were not in the picture he showed to me while we were negotiating. He pretended that the line got there as a result of movement during transportation which I knew was a lie having personally transported TV almost unprotected on the back seat of my car from Alaba to Ibadan at least twice with no damage.

I smell strong attempt at blackmail. It looks like this fight will be a draw as Madam Oby will probably just quietly let the issue slide. Omojuwa is clearly threatening to fight very dirty.

justcallmenuel:
You’ve always been a complainant right from the first time you chatted me up for 1.5kva 24v Schneider inverter (08-01-20), I should’ve listened to my instinct and not do business with you. If you think you can destroy the good name I’ve built for years on this forum, you lie bro. Stay safe and enjoy your Sunday

This is the equivalent of admitting guilt. There is nothing wrong with being a "complainant" or in other words being very careful in ensuring that the little money you have is giving you the maximum possible. Forget the complainant stuff and address the AC and the cable issue. I have done business with you before and I belief that you are one of the good ones. So, explain this with automatic alacrity to retain my, and others' confidence.

ojeysky:
Sorry about this experience, for me it's DIY all the way, I see the cells and other components with my korokoro eyes and they see me and behave . Imagine a battery company asking for contacts of my customers! He must be smoking something niyen

We just heard one side of the story. Are there other Weco users here with similar problem?

Karlovych:
You think HR and employers don't evaluate their potential employee's character. Social media posts by people have denied them jobs on so many occasions, I suppose when a customer walks into the bank they won't be greeted by her until they introduce themselves.

May they should be breaking into the homes of their potential employees to see how they will react to total strangers, not just on the phone. Yeye. Even if you are President of Nigeria, when you call someone who doesn't have you number, please introduce yourself ASAP!

The HR person, if this is a true story, was very wrong. If I were the lady, I will wear this as a badge of honour. When you call someone who does not have your number, the first thing you say at the earliest opportunity is to introduce yourself. No stranger should call my phone and expect me to be nice to him/her while withholding his or her identity. You call a strange number, then introduce yourself ASAP before the receiver even ask you who you are.

Fake news. I work in UCH and water is flowing, even in the sink in my personal office. People tend to exaggerate supposed bad news about Nigeria. There may be occasional short-lived hiccups, but UCH does not have serious or chronic water problem. The occasional hiccups are due to aging infrastructures including rusted pipes etc.

jamesid29:
Thanks for the advice boss... Would surely look into it.

Quick one boss... From your experience, can one comfortably get 5-6 yrs on the batteries without any headaches, even while going up to 90% DoD?

Now you are not seeking for my experience, you are asking me to make a prediction, to foretell the future. That is not my area of concentration/calling. However, going by what I have seen over the last one and half years in the LFP land, I will expect it to last that long or more. About one and a half years, there is no evidence of reduction in capacity, efficiency or voltage. The batteries are still performing just like the day I installed them. It may be an indication of what to expect, but who knows what surprises are lurking in the corner.

jamesid29:
Good morning folks.

Does anyone have any experience using felicity Lithium batteries; either for clients or personally?
Just trying to know if its a dependable buy.
Thanks


CC ojeysky ,Ceasar, Olopan, Valto, NiyiOmoIyunade, earthrealm, Eleojo23, Trippledots, Mctfopt, IYGEAL

I think it is a good battery. The capacity may have been overstated, but I consider it a good buy. Their 200AH 48V actually has 120AH battery in it, but it cuts of at pretty high voltage around 49V which is about 3v per cell. That is too high in my opinion and that means you are probably getting about 70-80% of useable capacity out of the battery. Bypassing their BMS can help you get a little more from the battery if you like deep discharges.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I have installed about 10 units of the so called 48v 200ah Felicity.

The technical literature actually rates the battery at 48v 7.5kwh so I dont know how how sellers managed to call it 48v 200Ah.

I also ran a discharge test at one customer location and I was able to pull out about 5kwh measured at the inverter AC out - this equates to about 5.5kwh of DC energy before the battery started to scream low battery.

If you take this point as 90% DoD then the battery is truly rated at 6kwh at 100% capacity and you can safely take out about 4.5kwh if the desire is to stay above 20% DoD for longevity - at the point point of screaming battery pack was at 49.4v or so so 3.08v per cell.

To help put all the numbers in perspective, I do not charge a Lithium battery to 100% full - our max voltage is 56.8 vs Felicity's recommended 57.6v

In summary the battery rated 48v 200ah or better yet 7.5kwh has about 4.5kwh of useable energy in it. So really a 48v 94ah battery for effective capacity. If you buy it with these facts in mind, you won't be dissappointed. If you run the battery at the discharge rates suitable for lead acid, you should have no trouble in the near term. You really must look into a LVD mechanism at around 50v so you don't overdrain the battery

For the savvy individuals, I do not believe that there is another 1kwh+ of useable energy hiding behind that extra 0.8v of charge - it would be great to interrogate the BMS of which Adrusa who has ripped one out of the battery case has refused to volunteer any details to help us know what BMS it is and crack it open.

I think they have a good BMS, but I have bypassed their BMS for ANT BMS because I had no way to communicate with it. But the BMS looks fine and well made.

ojeysky:
I guess I will continue with my AC path then. It just feels like a waste especially when no one is around.

I'm usually not at home during the day to make AC an option, though I'm also thinking of it, especially for weekends. Currently I use excess energy from panel to boil my water during the day and for an hour in the early hours of the morning to prevent my people from complaining that water is too tepid. I have stopped using NEPA for my water heaters and water pumps.

olopan:
Okay, what inverter type is the office using and what capacity?

I actually know what I need and all these questions are not necessary. Just give me an idea of what you have.

olopan:
What inverter do you use?

I would have recommended pylontech Or BYD if you can afford it.... Communication and seamless integration is so much easier with them

If I can get any of them for good prices. The office is paying, so there is a little latitude here.

Hello, I need some pre-packaged 48v lithium batteries for my office. Shouldn't be too expensive. Preferably Felicity, but I will consider other ones. Please quote me if you have.

I need ANT BMS if anyone has for sale. Kind of urgent. Thanks.

mctfopt:
That batteryless function rocks. I think more inverters should incorporate that feature.

My concern about the batteryless function is the high VOC it requires. One will need to rearrange the panels.

ojeysky:
Yet there are many that are still running theirs for years. Ofcourse we can't expect axperts to perform like the high end Victrons, Deye etc just as they are not in same price range either. Having used both MPP and Deye I will still recommend them depending on customer packet.

But your MPP also had a problem at a time and you had to replace the board. I still believe that the best inverters to buy are the first tier makers like Outback (I have a 7-year old outback), Victron, Schneider etc. I currently have a Felicity hybrid running for several months, but I bought it with low expectations. But, it has been fine so far. Caveat: It is only inverting, rarely charging with electricity and never connected solar panels to it.

Phone looks suspicious, buyers' beware. This may be a clone.

babaegun:
@adrusa

Could you expantiate a bit on how you achieved the item in bold? I have been able to extract the data through Victron BMV (see attached screenshot) however, am yet to trigger anything but that's my plan. So it will be faster for me if you can describe it here. A lot of us will learn from you. You will also notice the Battery consumption and voltage is multiplied by x10 which may be confusing but thats the way its extracted.

By the way your modbus config is missing a parameter called "scale". That is why your battery voltage is 513V instead of 51.3V

babaegun:
@adrusa

Could you expantiate a bit on how you achieved the item in bold? I have been able to extract the data through Victron BMV (see attached screenshot) however, am yet to trigger anything but that's my plan. So it will be faster for me if you can describe it here. A lot of us will learn from you. You will also notice the Battery consumption and voltage is multiplied by x10 which may be confusing but thats the way its extracted.

Quite easy. I use node red with home assistant. I hope you do too, it makes automation much easier than just using the automation built into home assistant. So, I have a node that monitors the SOC and the Voltage and if they are below preset values, a switch is triggered which turn on a relay that supplies AC powers to the inverter.

An example is attached here.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I read this with some excitement as I have considered and experimented with mixing different battery types and chemistries together - when I maxed out budget on Pylontech, I considered mixing with Dyness batteries which had similar voltage profile but ultimately did not pursue this path - I have also considered mixing with the Felicity LifePO4.

Lest people begin to apply this solution indiscriminately, I feel compelled to say it only appears to be working in your scenario because the two batteries being combined have fairly similar charge profiles - indeed the Lithium bank will charge and discharge first but that is about where the similarities end.

If you are running a high C rate application (charging with large currents and discharging with large loads) you may find the Lead Acid bank being stressed more than they can handle (your charger will not suddenly throttle current when charging switches to the Lead Acid only and neither will the loads suddenly drop off when being supplied by the Lead Acid only) - for long term stability, you would be constrained to set your absorb voltage to slightly undercharge the Lithium bank (not get to 100% capacity) and possibly severely undercharge the lead acid battery since the critical absorb phase it needs cannot be properly done - incorporate a separate charger for the Lead Acid and you would potentially be overcharging the Lithium bank unless you have a mechanism to isolate the batteries while still keeping inverter and other charge sources powered up from DC.

The way to run this safely is to isolate the two banks and dedicate isolated charging sources to each battery type - at the minimum there should be a dedicated inverter per battery bank and have them switch powering the loads with a suitable changeover arrangement - this can be done seamlessly.

You can go a step further by setting your large loads to power off when the main battery hits LVD and this way use a much smaller inverter running smaller loads to get through the rest of the night.

If you persist on the path of paralleling two different battery types, it is key to mention that at the point of combining them together, the two battery banks must be at thesame voltage at a minimum else you will surely see sparks fly as large and unregulated currents move from the higher voltage battery to the lower voltage battery - with Lithium batteries unregulated large currents can easily damage the battery contacts or permanently weld the internal protective relays all of which will cost you some inconvenience to fix.

I align with this position. When I bought my lithium batteries, I still had my lead-acid bank which I estimated still had some good life remaining. What I did was to put the two banks on separate inverters, pv arrays and charge controllers and used some contactors and automations to switch from one inverter to the other. I had also thought about mixing them, especially for charging and I do that occasionally, but the different charging parameters is what prevented me from doing so. My lead-acid batteries are all also flooded cells that require occasional equalization. Equalizing lithium will kill them rapidly. So, it is better to keep the battery banks separate to prolong their useful lives. Combining them looks like a costly compromise.

netotse:
Hi Guys,

Does anyone know where I can find a 48VDC contactor in lagos? I'm look for a cheap way to maximize/prioritize my solar use and want to use a relay-contactor combo.

I will set an under voltage relay to close when battery voltage is, at say, 50V and supply the coils of the contactor which will then close and supply AC to charge the batteries through the inverter, so as long as voltage is above 50V, relay(and therefore contactor) should be open and you are using the panels to power your house. This should mean that you don't need to be manually switching of AC power supply to maximise solar.

The relay is easy to find but the 48 VDC coil contactor is what I have been looking for, does anyone here know how I can find one?

I'm also open to suggestions on easier ways to achieve this.

BR

Find a relay rated for your intended current range. You can always use a converter to supply the relay coil with appropriate DC voltage. I have a similar setup between my battery banks. The bank is 48v 200A but the relay coil is 12v. So, I got a step down to power the relay. It is working well with some limitations due to the fact that one of my battery banks is lithium.


Edit: I read what you wanted again. Why do you need a 48v relay? I have a similar setup to what you are trying to achieve, but mine is controlled by my home automation using homeassistant. The State of Charge (SOC) of my battery and the voltage is fed into the homeassistant through Victron BMV. Any voltage sensor can also do the same. The SOC and Voltage then trigger a normal ac/dc relay to supply AC to the inverter if I need extra juice especially on days my batteries were not filled during the day.