₦airaland Forum

If you have any question on Mobil 1, 11 PLC the authorised representatives of the Mobil1 brand in Nigerian has sent a high powered delegation to Abuja to among other things respond to some questions I asked based on certain information that I saw being circulated here about the brand and referred to them for comments.

obekediamondfuto:
well I am yet to get my hopes as high as the moon but with what I'm seeing..... I think it's not a mirage.....


and she came prepared both in words and deeds

obekediamondfuto:
to be candid, I am really impressed with ur positivity towards this goal..... I really really hope u grow in strength and integrity.

this issue of engine replacement is a very big issue in Nigeria esp with the fact that those that rebuild are few and lack sense of responsibility.....

but with what u are offering, I think we are ready to think outside our usual confines....

only that ladipo will suffer small

radautoworks:
If you ever hold one of your courses in Lagos and need a practicals lab, you can use our spot. No charge.

radautoworks:
If you ever hold one of your courses in Lagos and need a practicals lab, you can use our spot. No charge.

yagor:
Okay house, i am sorry this update is coming late . . work and all but i feel it is proper i inform you that the issue has been fixed.
I had approached 2 sound engineers on this forum; kudos.
But at that point, I was invited by the Honorable Costee for a private chat. We went through the issue together on whatsapp.
And it pointed towards the BCM. He invited me over to his domain; led me to his dealer and after what seemed like hours of searching,
we finally found a replacement, exact part number. Took it home; managed to install it, not without some bruises though, and car came back to life, except that it would crank but not start. One or two calls were made, and a key programmer came within the hour and car was back to life.
I owe this fix to Costee; a very fine and accommodating gentleman.
And to AUtoElectNG, you are amazing. We still have a lot to work on sometime soon. Keep your fingers crossed.

uwemjack:
So my steering rack started leaking and got worse over time, I had to be topping up the power steering fluid every other week. Searched online for a new rack and the cost of shipping it in was not encouraging so I bought a replacement "Tokunbo" in ladipo and mechanic installed it, after 2 weeks it started leaking again took it to the seller and it was replaced with another "Tokunbo" with guarantee had it installed. Now I have paid twice for labour.
Went online and procured the rebuild kit from ebay and it arrived 15 days later. so I dismantled the original rack that came with the car to replace the o-ring, seals and "borris". I could not remove one of the borris so I took it to a mechanics workshop for them to use their tools to remove it, and the chief mechanic told me that it's better to replace the whole rack than rebuild and that they can't remove it (they actually tried to remove it in my presence). Took it back home and went to YouTube and finally got the borris removed. Then I cleaned and replace everything that was in the kit and coupled back the rack.
3 weeks exactly after rebuilding the steering rack, the rack in the car started leaking! So the second Tokunbo rack lasted for roughly 2 months!
So I reinstalled the original rebuilt steering rack! And 3 years down the line the it has not leaked.

To me rebuild is better than replace, but our mechanics don't follow due process as their work area is always dirty, sand and other parts are reintroduced into the rebuilt part which contributes to their early failure.

loodba:
Can gurus in the house pls advice regarding yhe solution my car is accord 2004t
Warm regards[/quote

Reminder pls

Inception:
Been in hiatus as per the 'project'....

So, i tore open the transmission after getting it dropped to inspect the internal parts. The insides was quite clean i must say...

i compared the final drive of mine to that of the transmission of the Hyundai, obvouls there was a difference in the teeth/gearing.

But then i checked the intermediate gear where the output speed sensor took its reading...Non. matching

Did a further check online and then i realised that the transmission originally installed on the vehicle was specific for non-GDI engines( Theta II 2.0/2.4, Nu 2.0 CVVT) with the code name A6MF1( narrow band). The one in the car was A6MF2 (Narrow band) installed on the Theta II 2.4 GDI engines, while the one i removed was A6MF2(wide band) installed in the Hyundai santafe 2wd.


Now i know why people hate the Hyundai /KIA brand when it comes to parts! two gearboxes looking exactly similar , yet they are different internally!

So i just jejely packaged the gear back and installed in the vehicle and decided to source for the exact replacement (still suffering from 2-3 flares) ...

Advise for peeps on this forum... If you are to buy any vehicle(used or Toks) PLEASE avoid the ones bought brand new in Nigeria. In the event a major component like transmission is to be replaced , you may run into extreme difficulty locating an exact replacement and even if you do, the price will be astronomical. Go for the American spec.

Precious231:
i bought liberty jeep after 2 months engine blown off, after replacement of engine no mechanic up till now can start the car. its over 1 month with over 5 mechanic non is successful. if there is anybody that can start the car I will appreciate it, nairalanders please help locate the right person thanks.

eherbal:
09 Le Canada

eherbal:
09 Le Canada

eherbal:
can this be installed on Corollas ?

radautoworks:
You take on some projects that are hard to book so just like Egunmogaji as long as you're transparent, nothing wrong with project based.

Hey, how'd you get your tagline to be blue?

sonety2k:

radautoworks:
Easy. There are specified hours in Auto shop software that dictate how long every single job on a car should take. Every dealer has it even if they choose to ignore it. It is referred to as the "book". If the "book" says 20 hours and you take 40 hours, you can only collect 20 hours.

Conversely, if the "book" says 20 hours and you are really good and take 16, you still get paid 20 hours. That's why our shops do so well. We consistently over-perform the "book".

The book is how mechanics get paid in the usa so if they work 40 hours but only book 30, they get paid for 30. Someone like my husband consistently booked 90 hours a week working 40 when he was with other companies. No mechanic worth his salt EVER agrees to salary in the USA. If they do, RUN.

The book bases time on a "good " or "b" technician not even an "a" so there is no reason why techs should be going over the allotted time consistently. If a tech can't beat book time without making mistakes, they can't work for us.

The most popular book is Alldata, followed by Mitchell. There are others of course but the are all pretty much the same as far as labor hours.

Egun.mogaji, Auto.ElectNG and some others can confirm this.

Originalsly:
Sounds good! ...but how smooth of a ride someone wants?....and are they willing/able to pay the price?...and the price for maintenance/replacement? ...is it worth it? I've seen sooo many Mercedes electronic suspension system fail....not a pretty sight!

GAZZUZZ:
4th scenario, you are new in the business and want to follow all repairs by the book, you buy a new cluster, install it and the circuits Get fried instantly because a couple of wires have been bridged under the fusebox to disable certain lights

weyreypey:
I know of a guy who went to negotiate a real estate deal...after sucessfully persuading the money bag to invest...then came the time to go the rich decided to see these guys off and voila... they all squeezed into an Orobo camry ....that was the end of the deal....end dead end!!




What about when you buy a car to keep you alive and sane?

connkg:
AutoElectNG, thank you. Email sent.

EgunMogaji:
I actually shared this your very post with Her Imperial Majesty RadAuto on another thread this week, I think.

Kashif:
Is this resolved now?dl

connkg:
Thanks, AutoElectNG.
I didn't know brake fluid was hygroscopic. I now know.
So, inside that plastic cup, rubber- covered, hydraulic can attract up to 4% moisture/ water in volume?
Inside that engine temperature?
Isn't it presently the farthest away from rushing air and even under the windshield air/ water drain?
4%?

BTW, I don't have any device to plot long. and lat. to get your actual location...

connkg:
Thank you, Piyke.
Does that mean brake fluid degenerates into water? How does the water get in?