₦airaland Forum

HenryWilliams:
In which way pls.
I'm not really a "fan" of such practices.

By reverting the connections to factory in a less than a day.

HenryWilliams:
Evening..
Please how can I return my radiator fans back to factory specs.
Recently bought a car with fans wired directly.. And I'm not too comfortable with such. .thanks

I can help with that

GAZZUZZ:
Do not buy car sensors on aliexpress, all fake.

Get a more reputable site.

Amazon......

I share the same sentiments..you beat me by expressing it first...

augustinereg:
Hi please I would like some professional help, I was advised to change my Nissan Morano Engine and, I did to a new one.

Hope you kept the so-called bad engine.

Before I changed the engine it was developing fault and, the car was not raising (can't accelerate) the Mechanic checked and said Gear was fine, the engine is bad any way so we changed the engine so we know no major issues than electrical. So we changed the Engine.

Now the car still doesn't raise.

Misdiagnosis. If the problem were engine, then the new engine would not have the same problem.

When we put it on it burnt two coils on the new follow come engine.
I have been through hell how come the Electrician mentioned Brain box, but we suspect the wiring is wrong as well.

This is when the diagnosis is accurate. Sadly, the mechanic is handicapped. Sadly also, we have this unreasonable dichotomy of mechanical engineer and electrical engineer as far as fixing cars in Nigeria is concerned. One needs to have general practitioner knowledge in both to do a good job of repairs. The average kazeem is thus incompetent to work on cars since 1996.

But given the fact that the car never raised before we changed the engine/(the same electrician said the problem was the engine) and, still isn't raising and the electrician scanned the car nothing less than 3 times and even had to use computer to reset the car and in all this time him and his team of Electricians didn't mention any thing like brain box I want to get rid of him sharply.......

The mechanic is a quack. The electrician and his team are quacks. There is more to diagnosis than scanning. If the team found nothing, then they are not worth the titles they bear.

Is this a flooded car?
There are a series of tests to determine what's wrong and why.

It is painstaking and intellectual.

It can be done...it.will take time, resources and plenty of cash.

If you are willing to dole out serious cash, I will gladly offer my services.

Narailanders we need professional Nissan Morano 2004 USA spec Electrical Bosses and, We need your advice.

(Subject Electrical faults, brain box, burnt coil, new Engine on Nissan Moran 04)

Thank you and God bless Us all...

The problem is electrical afterall, but it is beyond the scope of those you have patronized thus far.

I am available for this engagement at the right price.

Interested...

Where is this vehicle located?

olaboy1:
I took the car to the biggest Toyota dealership here before and they couldn’t identify the problem after all computer and scan tests.
I went to two other well equipped workshops and same thing.....(sir there is nothing wrong with your car).

But from my driving experience and the performance of my other car, It’s so easy to spot that the car is performing like a bone stuck in the throat of a gluttonous child.

My only confusion right now is that Evap monitor shows complete while CAT monitor shows incomplete. Although I’m yet to fulfil the drive cycle for CAT monitor test and the pending CAT DTC’s were already there before all I’ve just done on the car.

So the only way to tell if this is a fix is to complete CAT cycle monitor test, and drive for another 2-3 weeks to see if the pending CAT DTC’s would come up, as they usually do around 2-3weeks. Below is a screenshot of all the MONITORS done by the scantool.

I am open to further expert advice on why my Evap VSV is showing “OFF”.

The CAT Monitor depends on data from the oxygen sensors.

The Oxygen Sensor Monitor needs to run before the CAT monitor runs.

I know you already know this: that you need to meet the enabling criteria for your particular vehicle for the CAT monitor to run successfully.

The CAT monitor tests the efficacy of the CAT.

I have started work on the EVAP VSV OFF but EVAP Monitor complete.

I'll provide feedback when I am done.

Includes KIA coverage

Once concluded with a test case... will post details of the fix

Currently working on a Hyundai Sonata 2004 that refuses to start, burns ignition coils, and looses power climbing hills

olaboy1:
My LTFT are always in the negatives around minus 8% which leads me to believe I have an underlying issue destroying my CAT.
Will a bad CAT cause my LTFT’s to be like that. I just don’t want to change to a new CAT that would be destroyed again. Two things I’m yet to troubleshoot are vacuum leaks and injectors.
Any idea how to go about this?
See upstream and downstream sensors behavior, maybe you can use those and the LTFT’s to point me in the right direction. I thought the upstream sensors should be switching rapidly, but they both seem to stay longer on the high voltage.
Also I’m confused because my freeze frame data on fuel trims when I get CAT DTC’s are always within spec at the time the DTC set, but when I park and check my fuel trims, the LTFT’s are always wack.

It can be argued that apart from the inputs obtained from the ECT sensor, the oxygen sensor(s) is the next most important input the OBD II system needs to function properly.

By function properly, I mean that problems with the oxygen sensors have been known to shut down the OBD II monitoring system. Conversely, the OBD II monitoring system should be able to tell us if oxygen sensors are out of order.

Thus far, you have relied on an OBD II scanner.

I am going to suggest a change of method and tools.

There are three things you need to test separately:

1. Oxygen sensor rich voltage accuracy (plot voltage over time using 200mV/Div and 500mS/Div)

2. Oxygen sensor lean voltage accuracy (plot voltage over time using 200mV/Div and 500mS/Div)

3. Oxygen sensor response speed i.e., how fast it can make the transition from full rich to full lean, most important consideration of them all(plot voltage over time using 200mV/Div and 500mS/Div)

You will need propane gas and a DSO.

You keep getting the P0420 and the P0430 because the OBD II monitors feel something is amiss.

So we have to test each component in the chain.

The purpose of this test is to rule out that your oxygen sensors are not fooling the OBD II monitoring system and by extension the PCM through the provision of inaccurate data.

The theory behind my proposal is this:

1. simulate a test/laboratory rich scenario and measure the voltage which would be compared with what it ought to be from the specification sheet of the oxygen sensor manufacturer

2. simulate a test/laboratory lean scenario and measure the voltage which would be compared with what it ought to be from the specification sheet of the oxygen sensor manufacturer

3. simulate a test/laboratory scenario in which it adjusts from full lean to full rich and measure how fast it recognizes/reads the change which would be compared with what it ought to be from the specification sheet of the oxygen sensor manufacturer.

If we can guarantee that the oxygen sensors are good, then we can look at the other components in the chain. But if they are bad, then we may have found the source of the recurrent P0420 AND P0430

--------------------
MODIFIED BELOW
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OLABOY1

Two OBD II monitors are at play here. The Oxygen Sensor Monitor and the CAT Monitor. What if I may ask is the readiness status of the Oxygen Sensor Monitor? I want to assume that the CAT Monitor is not ready.

The function of the CAT is to take care of incomplete combustion and convert hazardous waste (NOx, HC and CO into CO2 and water).
To do this, the CAT depends heavily on a correct A/F ratio which is attained when the mixture switches between rich and lean. When rich, the CAT is most efficient at the conversion of NOx to CO2 and water, when lean, the CAT is most efficient at the conversion of HC and CO to CO2 and water.

This poses the question: Has your ride attained and is it capable of maintaining stoichiometric ratio and is it capable of oscillating moderately between rich and lean?

From your understanding of vehicle operation, you know the centrality of the role of the oxygen sensor and by extension the oxygen sensor monitor in managing/observing that this is going well.

Yet another question arises in the circumstances: Are your front oxygen sensors functioning properly? The question is relevant because the Air/Fuel ration has to be just right for the CAT to function optimally.

From the foregoing explanation, the front oxygen sensors provide the input that the CAT Monitor uses to do its job (in addition to fuel trim adjustments) WHILE the CAT monitor compares the signals from the front oxygen sensor and the signals from the rear oxygen sensor to determine CAT efficiency.

This may help you better appreciate why I have asked that you answer the question first and foremost – are my oxygen sensors behaving the way the way they were programmed to do or is something amiss before we go any further.

While an OBD Scanner can provide some of this information, a DSO is a better tool to get at that information, hence the suggestion that you switch method and tools.

olaboy1:
Gaz.zuzz is it not better to first know if the ECM is giving a rich command that makes additional raw fuel get into the CAT, just changing the CAT might not be the best fix.

I’m having same issue for P0420 and P0430 and I’ve changed CAT and DTC’s persist. I can tell from my LTFT that it is taking fuel from the negative readings or am I wrong. I have seen a video on YouTube and the fix was the previous mechanic that installed the downstream oxygen sensors misplaced their positions. In my case I personally had all my sensors identified by tape with positions they were suppose to be boldly written on them, but my mechanic with his “you can’t teach me my job” mentality just mixed everything together and said all the plugs are not the same and no way you can make a mistake on this installation.

After seeing the YouTube video, I realised my mechanic was half right because the upstream oxygen sensors connectors are not the same but the downstream sensors are, so I am working on checking if the sensors are sitting in their right positions.

STFT Bank 2 at idle hovering between 2.34 to 7.81
STFT Bank 1 at idle hovering between 2.34 to 7.81 (I thought they should be close to zero as much as possible)

What are you trying to solve?

You bought a used CAT if I remember correctly, which is not the best thing to do, everything considered. Are you chasing after P0420 and P0430? Or something else?

Gracesofar:
Hello pals and car gurus. I will go straight to the point, I HV dz Toyota Camry with Nigerian name muscle. Although its barely 2 month old and working perfectly buh a friend recently told me I should not wait for the car to start having issue that its best I always run a diagnostic test on it at intervals.

I rili dnt know much about diagnostic test but I know. Its about the car computer processor, micro chips etc. So the question I have is,
1.has anyone ever run a diagnostic test on his car here?

2. how often should it be?

3.Without the car having any issue is their a point running a diagnostic test on it? Because the longest distance the car has gone is between Kaduna to ibadan around sept and also Ibadan to Enugu that same sept. And the final question,

4. Is their any reliable diagnostic center in Enugu or any nearest village to it and and estimated value of its cost




Your additions and referrals are so welcome.

https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions some of your questions answered here

flossboss:
Hello i have a 2010 toyota corolla that has the VSC and Trac off light on on the dashboard. it was scanned and it brought a code C1290 Abnormal zero point steering angle sensor. i am told i have to do a zero point calibration to fix this Any ideas how or where this can be done?

Thanks

Seen

Will update post with an appropriate response later.

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MODIFIED BELOW
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Have been busy setting up shop so we can open to the public...but will respond to this post before the week runs out...

Flossboss...sorry for the silence

Kufie:
Lagos-Shagamu interchange-Ore-Benin-Asaba-Onitsha-Ihiala-Orlu-Umuahia-Obot akara-Ikot ekpene-Itu (Might wanna pass through Uyo for smoother roads)-Odukpani-Calabar.

I'm going home (Calabar) next week Sunday. If you need a hand, let me know.

Most appreciated.

Any ideas...
Anyone...
Thank you

oyefelix:
Autoelectng ,abeg I need your unbiased view ,I can see you peeping.
Nurey and co don already chop bribe and no want talk again

Will comment after going through factory information...no time now

cc: oyefelix

MODIFIED:

1. The fuel trims both STFT and LTFT provided that they fall between 0 +/- 20% are said to be normal according to factory specifications. ECU will only set lean or rich codes if vehicle out of factory specifications range, but values in experiment by Gaz.zuzz within factory specifications, so there can be no lead code as speculated in this case.

2. Will address other part(s) of your query later, when I cross-check the other values with the documentation.

oyefelix:
you too don chop something.

Nope. Nothing of the sort.

There are general rules like was quoted above, then there are specifics per vehicle.

Some vehicles are tuned to run richer than others, only by checking factory specifications will you determine how a specific vehicle performs and deviates from a general rule or its particular implementation of a general standard.

I defer to the information from the factory.

Infact, I consult factory information for every repair job, I believe it would be terrible to present me information that I should know but I do not, I would lose face.

One thing you can never get from me...I will not attack anyone, and if I am attacked, I will respond in a very civil manner. If I see what I do not agree with, I will present counterfacts, but no name calling or slurs.

So, I will go with factory information and I recommend everyone to do the same.

Have a lovely morning...and do the best to build your brand by responding in a mature way, the world is watching.

Observing intently workshop/class proceedings

Lesson: To fix any car since OBD II, get a laptop, a scan tool, internet access and access to factory data.


Runs out of here...as fast as he breezed in

My contributions will be brief and to the point

1. Document your transactions in writing not calls, if you placed a call and came to some agreements, followup immediately with a written statement of the purported agreement and request for acknowledgement via email or chat, email preferred, chat is good to go.

2. Make transfers using internet/mobile banking and use the comment or remarks section generously to describe why the payment is made. This means cheques should not be used, because you have to explain the purpose of the cheque unlike the above.

I still maintain despite missiles above that TRUST is required for BUSINESS to progress, but if you follow the above religiously, then if things go wrong, you will not be caught in the web of his word against yours, the facts will speak for themselves with dates and timestamps.

Also watching the way this story will end.

The OP will not have much trouble because he seems to have followed the above.

OP you are a very patient and understanding fellow, even the Devil will not be annoyed that you have blown this open.

Is this another case of a business bites off more than it can chew, and another name bites the dust?

Which country's corolla are we talking about here? US/Japan/South Africa?

6. Does the vehicle happen not overheat even if the a/c is on PROVIDED THAT you are in freeway traffic as opposed to stop and go traffic? *The vehicle doesn't overhear at all, if the a/c is not on. No matter the type of traffic*


I know that without A/C no overheating

I want to establish if
1. A/C is ON and
2. You are driving at speeds of 100 km or more (aka freeway traffic) for extended periods of time it still overheats?
Please run the test and revert

Finally, seems you just got the ride, and you attempted to upgrade it with A/C when this happened.

justifiedcoyy:
thank you brother. he said we should wash the radiator and see what happens. thanks for your time

If the entire radiator is caked in mud, or a significant section is caked with mud, then doing as he suggests would make a difference.

If that is not the case, I doubt that doing so will solve your problem.

Coolant is what cools the vehicle - (it absorbs the heat from the engine), the radiator is a heat exchanger - (transferring the heat from the coolant to the air), so the coolant can go back and absorb even more heat, what is more to do an effective job, the coolant is pressurized.

Stagnant coolant cannot cool the vehicle

Your fans work you say, do they cycle on and off?

Got a thermostat?

Me thinks of looking in the direction of the coolant; its ability to move around to bring down the heat; as well as whether the system is pressurized aka the radiator cap

All the same report the situation when he does as he has recommended

justifiedcoyy:
good morning all.. please, my Nissan primera stops while driving, let's say after about 2km, when I opened d burnet to check, I observed the radiator got extremely hot, when I allow it cool and open d radiator cover, the water was still filled but very hot.
after leaving the car for about an hour, it will.move another few km and stop again. the radiator fan is working.

my mechanic doesn't sound convincing about what the.issue is. I'm. confused myself. don't know if that's overheating or something related.

What does your mechanic say the issue is?

As for the stopping, most vehicles if not all are designed to switch themselves off if it overheats beyond a certain threshold

Did he say you should replace the water pump?

Investigate the entire cooling system - the fault lies therein - prime suspect failing or failed water pump, physical inspection by a competent techie recommended

If you want to understand the cooling system and what the techie is going to do, read up here http://www.carparts.com/classroom/coolingsystem.htm

earthrealm:
U NAILED IT, but sadly he and his army of mechanics wont understand or care, all they care is install double radiator, remove therstat and all sorts of rubbish,
what you explained above is the correct resolution of his probs

I am honored by your acknowledgement

Egji:
Hi everyone, I'm starting this thread to request help from the nairaland community in troubleshooting the issue I'm having with my car.

I drive a Toyota Corolla, it runs perfectly fine without the a/c on, but when I put on the a/c on a hot afternoon in traffic, the car starts overheating.

My radiator has a single fan, functioning for both the radiator and the condenser

I have visited a mechanic, who scanned the car. He replaced the a/c relay that controls a manual a/c compressor and the engine thermostat. But he left the fan running directly with the ignition because the compressor was not controlling the radiator fan when we put on the a/c.


I have flushed the radiator and steam washed the condenser. Then we refilled the cooling system with red abro anti rust coolant. And bleed the cooling system.

I tested the car in heavy traffic and it still overheats. Please what do I do now??

The key to resolution appears to be concentrated in the bolded parts of your query.

Wrong repair procedure, instead of running the fans directly, he is supposed to troubleshoot why the ECU cannot get a signal that the compressor is on and turn the fan on at the highest possible speed as well as cycle the compressor on and off according to the inbuilt logic based on parameters it receives from a variety of sensors.

If care is not taken, resolving the bolded, will address the problem.

Here is the scientific explanation.

When you turn on the a/c, you increase the load. When you increase the load, you increase the heat produced. That is why the act of turning on the a/c also turns on the fans to offset the extra heat produced.

Your ECU is unable to regulate the A/C compressor if I get that you called it manual because of such non-regulation.
Your ECU is unable to regulate the fans because of the direct connection.
Your tech has deviated from design parameters without making adequate bypasses to take care of the non-stock condition.

The ECU has algorithms for running the fans at a variety of speeds to address a wide variety of heat levels, but it needs inputs from a variety of sensors such as the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, the fans, the compressor, etc to do that.

It no longer has access to input from the fan nor the a/c and is akin to a pilot flying with incomplete bearing determination parameters, would you love to be a passenger in such a flight?

Until you return to stock configuration or redesign the system to address the new operating parameters, this vehicle will continue to overheat.

A few questions for you.

1. Which model year of corolla?
2. Did this vehicle come with a/c factory fitted or is the a/c a retrofit?
3. Has the operation of the a/c always resulted in overheating or is this a recent happenstance?
4. Please clarify what you mean by the use of the expression "manual compressor"?
5. Is the compressor installed meant for this vehicle or a non-identical transplant?
6. Does the vehicle happen not overheat even if the a/c is on PROVIDED THAT you are in freeway traffic as opposed to stop and go traffic?

From everything you have said, please scan with vehicle with either a VCDS or a VAS6150B/C and revert.

Until then...your repair processes will not hit the intended mark

This is not a rewire issue, this requires a dedicated/trained VW professional capable of providing holistic solutions and not a roadside techie

Be ready to splurge to fix this vehicle

Landsurveyor:
by diagnosis on the gear,I mean manual checks like changing gear oil,filter, and checking the fibers.Had a perfect gear.scanning machines proved abortive;they dint get readings at all.Leading to one of the re-wires saying my brain box was fried.

Does this vehicle start, run, drive except for this issue for which you seek a resolution?

AutoElectNG:
That engine is between 900,000 and 1,000,000 naira in Lagos last time I checked.

Please try to compare the cost of getting same engine from the states/fixing in the states versus doing the same from Lagos assuming that is the reason for its non-drivable state.

MODIFIED:

I can link you up to a junkyard that I have patronized in the past.

I have not asked them how much they sell the engine but with online prices starting at $800 (or N 292,200.00) to $1,500 ( N 574,500.00) excluding installation costs, I think this is certainly an option worth researching.

There also exists the issue that you maybe getting an engine with pedigree that is almost impossible to do here, since they keep records like the VIN of the donor, the mileage when it was taken out to mention but a few.

OP, please take note of the bolded