₦airaland Forum

How have things been since the switch, it's been a while, update the house

This was the thread I actually wanted to refer you to, my bad

https://www.nairaland.com/4090771/toyota-corolla-over-heats-only/3#61161031

With the logical explanation laid there, you should know what next to do

com1234:
.



No. That is what the previous owner has been using.

That could cause this...wrong oil viscosity run long enough

com1234:
. I changed it 2 weeks ago, i ve not really travelled since then....so less than 500. It still appears clean.

Is that the first usage of 10w40? By the way wrong oil viscosity is just one possibility there are others....only physical inspection will zero in on the actual cause.

com1234:
Total 5000 planning to change to synthetic i am afraid of complications with abrupt change.

10w40?

How many miles since last oil/filter change?

Just curious....What kind of oil do you use?

Vehicle history before this codes popped up?

Sounds more mechanical than electrical something to do with the Variable Camshaft Timing and the associated solenoid not working according to specification

Location?

I absolutely recommend research.

Research has led me to understand why the TPMS complains bitterly on sienna vehicles running 235/65/16 and 235/65/17

That's what most commercial vehicles use. Readers check this out before riding the next Sienna, but that's a major problem waiting to manifest the next time ABS is called into play.

The only thing commercial driver's do that is OK as far as tires are concerned is upgrading to LT tires to accommodate the extra load or as has been recommended by egunmogaji, all terrain tires.

It is OK to use a sturdier tire, read that to mean LT especially of the vehicle will be heavily laden.

It is not OK to change the tire size without adjusting ECU logic to address speedometer discrepancies as well as ABS response to panic braking.


If using LT tires, the tire pressure on the driver's door becomes irrelevant, you must use the minimum supported tire pressure for the LT tire of your choice to take full advantage of its load carrying capacity and prevent self destruction.

This post is for the records, lest someone takes my advice out of context and brings harm to life and limb, whether his or that of others.

See also https://www.autosphere.ca/tirenews/tires-management/2013/09/27/light-truck-tires-vs-passenger/ as well as http://www.moderntiredealer.com/article/311703/there-s-nothing-light-about-light-truck-tires

EgunMogaji:
P or LT it doesn't matter to me though I will always prefer P tires when appropriate.

The key is to properly maintain your tires, P or LT.

Visually observe the wheels at each gas fill up and check the pressure, physically touch and inspect the tires at each oil change and preferably before the start of every journey.

Only fill up the tires to the recommended pressure that is stamped on the side of the driver's side door jamb. Don't listen to Baba Lati Vulga who thinks Nigeria is on Saturn and not on earth. He doesn't know more than the engineers at the tire and car factories.

How many of you guys own your own personal tire gauge that will ensure a consistent measurement? Your own personal compressor?

I prefer P tires, but I am considering sets of tires because of my research P for use in the city and LT if traveling.

Even if tires are properly maintained, Nigerian roads require additional considerations because most of them are not paved.

I apply the visual checks and even stop to measure and either reduce or increase tire pressure every 100 miles or 3 hours on long trips.

Personal tire gauge? Yes

Personal compressor? Not yet.

Given how heavily loaded the aforementioned vehicles are subjected to, my research indicates that tire size is not the only consideration, speed rating,, load index rating, the tire pressure at the start of the trip and during the trip itself are relevant because of issues like overloading aka severe application, load transfer during cornering, etc.

Because of this, P tires are considered inappropriate unless the loading restriction influencing the factory stock tire are obeyed.

Otherwise, LT tires may be the way to go.

http://www.siennachat.com/forum/27-tires-wheels-tire-pressure-monitors-tpms/3011-215-65-16-215-60-16-any-issues.html#/topics/3011?page=2

But see also http://www.moderntiredealer.com/article/311494/lt-or-p-metric-tires-for-light-trucksuv-applications

One great enemy of tires is heat:
https://jalopnik.com/how-goodyear-hid-evidence-of-the-worst-tire-made-in-his-1822200424

Maybe we should keep and share statistics of tire makes suffering blowouts...

Which do you use and why?

Would you consider Nigerian highways as an on road or off-road environment?

Have you suffered tire failures and taken the time to do a post event analysis?

I did and here is what I found.

It may be time to purchase tires based on application and not necessarily what us stamped on the driver's door.

All those commercial driver's running LT tires on a sienna and 235/65/16LT instead of 215/65/16 may be onto something.

Your thoughts on this?

Maybe we could reduce the carnage on our roads due to failed tires.

I think the first year repair is free

Subsequent years you pay for labor and parts

Thermocool is a brand of PZ Nigeria PLC.

You can't go wrong on a thermocool generator.

And while they are built in China, they are built well and the company is willing to stand by their product.

I have several...modesty does not all me mention the number...but this has been my experience with the brand for some 5 years

Alanzazani:
When are you coming back. It is a job I believe we won't regret if we can deliver

Next week

I have traveled....when I return...I'll come for inspection

Model?
Year?
Does it run and drive?

It does not overheat when there is no AC
It overheats when there is AC

AC places increased load on the system, more load means more heat, more heat to be dissipated places increased load on the devices meant to achieve that outcome.

It could be electrical - the fans are not doing a good job of taking away the heat, been there done that.

It could be mechanical - Water pump, thermostat, radiator, radiator cap, hoses, restricted air flow from debris.

Get someone who knows what to do to go through the system and do the needful.

See also https://www.nairaland.com/4096024/car-acting-funny#61106260

Tekkyy:
I am the owner of the car. It was my mechanic that told me about the leather problem. If gear leather is bad, does it mean the gear box is totally bad and cannot be repaired?

There is something called falling from fry pan into the fire...are you sure you are not about to do so?

Secondly, you got an offer too good to be true on the ultimate solution to your car trouble, treated it with disdain, causing it to be withdrawn.

They way you are going you will soon without a car unless you retrace your steps very quickly.

The solution to your problem is to rebuild the transmission but those you are contacting cannot do a reliable job, certainly not for the quoted amount. The cost of doing a reliable job can be as much as your ride, the next best choice is to get another working transmission, a concession you treated with levity....because the offer was below market rate.

Good luck.

Whynow:
People like me invest in tools .
I had Honda HDS when I had my Honda Pilot.
I scan my vehicles and direct technicians on what to do

Respect!

Tochiokoye:
where in Abuja are u based bro?

Wuye District, Abuja... only attend to vehicles on appointment...chat me up let's schedule a meet

Whynow:
I can do it for you. I have a Toyota techstream SW. If you are in Gbagada weekend, Or you are lucky I return home early before 7pm

From Torque to Techstream...quite a leap of faith...why did you make that investment? Did my posts help? From your previous posts, you are not into the service divide of automotive business...hence the question...if you do not mind sharing?

GAZZUZZ:
the engine is bleeped up sir.

Try this

Drain engine oil.

Pour 4 liters of diesel (yes I said diesel) pour it into where there should be engine oil.

Start the engine, leave it to run for 10mins idling.

After 10mins drain diesel, open oil pan, clean the filter, open VVTI solenoids (if dual open both) clean strainers. Replace oil filter.

Pour fresh oil and use car.

Repeat these steps like 2-3times withing 5days.

Upsides, it might work

Down sides, it might start smoking.

What do you say about adding ATF to the engine oil because of its detergent capabilities?

Some people swear by it.

thebigkendo:
To the best of my knowledge Lejeuns handles mostly land/range rovers

Great to have you back.. I sure missed your detailed & methodically approach

I am humbled.

Noted...your observations on my recommendations with thanks

Sometimes when an engine starts smoking... you need a root cause analysis... you also need painstaking detective work...some work cannot be done in a day, it could take days or months.

If you don't want to do or cannot afford root cause analysis...there is an easy way out...get another engine.

CAVEAT: THERE ARE SOME ENGINES FOR WHICH ROOT CAUSE ANALYSIS MAKES NO SENSE BECAUSE OF THE COST OF GETTING A REPLACEMENT!

Here is a story of someone with sludge in a 2005 Toyota Sienna that the dealer was unable to fix...but the end user fixed with the help of a mechanic who knew what he was doing plus lots of patience and time.

I will post the initial story of his problem and the resolution as well as the thread the story was taken from so you can read for yourself and form your conclusions.

THE INITIAL PROBLEM:

I have a 2 1/2 year old Sienna LE with 54,500 miles on it. The engine is the 3.0L V6. I have read quite a bit about the oil sludge problem(s) on these engines and am wondering if anyone else has any issues with an '05? I change the oil myself (which is going to be an issue b/c while I wrote it all down in the maintenance book, I don't have receipts) and while I went beyond 5,000 miles on some intervals, it was never more than 7,500. The engine is now burning oil at an alarming rate (3-4 Quarts per 200 miles) and I am not driving the vehicle any more. I had noticed some build up under the oil filler cap about 15,000 miles ago, but thought little of it because there was no burning of the oil and the engine ran great (no noises, no hesitation, etc.). Now the engine is still running very quiet and little hesitation, but you can clearly see the oil going out the tailpipe in the form of thick blue smoke.

I would appreciate any insight from others. I have not had it to the dealership yet b/c the local dealer, from whom I did not purchase the vehicle, has a very poor customer service reputation...which is why I didn't buy it there. If anyone has any advice on self-repair or how to deal with Toyota to get it covered under the warranty (expires at 60,000 miles) I would be very interested.

THE SOLUTION FOUND:

So after pretty much being lambasted on this forum for not changing my oil, neglecting my maintenance, using inferiror oil, etc, etc, I finally got the appropriate focus from Toyota that this issue warranted. How you ask...by employing the services of an out of work mechanic friend who had lots of free time...and a digital camera.

Long story short, since I felt Toyota failed to back their inferior product I had to prove to them that the issue was not caused by my neglect. Toyota looked at the car and said that the sludge was my fault (poor maintenance, etc, etc) and that the engine needed new valve stem seals in order to stop smoking. Well, we proved that to be a bunch of crap.

After painstakingly researching all aspects of the oil flow systems of this engine, as well as the emissions systems, we were able to come up with the following;

Baffles in valve covers were almost completely blocked
PCV was completely blocked (Toyota never mentioned this)
Oil Control Valves (located on each side of the block just below the CAM's) were nearly blocked

As I noted in previous posts, prior to this step I had my regular mechanic do what he could to clean out the sludge. That seemed to help with the smoking a little bit, but the motor still smoked pretty badly. That is when I took it to Toyota and they said it was the valve stem seals.

Now one would logically come to this conclusion based on some of their tests (compression, etc), but let me offer another theory (based on what actually happened);

Because the baffles in the valve covers were so blocked up, as well as the PCV valve, when we pulled the top part of the engine off and looked at things like the throttle body and air intake system parts, they were all SOAKED in oil, including the air filter. This engine had no choice but to smoke because the air intake system was sucking oil into the engine.

Note here: This was not the sole source of oil consumption [I noted 1 quart every 150 miles in my original post to this forum]. Apparently Toyota pulled the rear valve cover to take a look at one point, and when they put it back on they pinched the valve cover gasket where it goes over the CAM, so oil was leaking pretty dramatically down the backside of the motor. This caused most of the oil consumption.

So here is how we fixed it (and what we told Toyota):

New valve covers
New valve cover gaskets (installed correctly)
New plugs
New PCV
New air cleaner
Removed and soaked air exchange box to remove all oil
Removed throttle body and cleaned out all oil
Blew out all vaccuum hoses to remove traces of oil
Cleaned oil control valves and reinstalled

Engine now runs WITH NO SMOKE at all and there is no oil consumption (or leaking) either.

So what did he Toyota dealer have to offer after all of this...nothing really, other than to say "Sorry about the valve cover gasket". So off we went to the local paper with the story and the photos. Sure enough, a Regional Toyota Rep called me within a day or two of being contacted by the local paper. After discussing the issue and it was agreed that the baffle being clogged in the valve cover, along with the PCV being clogged, caused the motor to pull oil through the air intake system and into the cylinders, causing it to smoke terribly. The Toyota rep said it was the first time anyone had gone to these lengths to diagnose a smoking problem and was thankful to us (whether or not that was true I dont know). Toyota has since offered to reimburse me for the parts (purchase all Toyota OEM parts online), about $600 all together, and said they would make a note of what we did to help dealers diagnose a similar situation.

Something to keep in mind:
Each situation is different. I was lucky that the sludge did not cause more damage to the engine internally (e.g. worn rings, bad valve stem seals, etc) and that I had the time and resources to methodically diagnose the problem, which not everyone has. The whole process took over three months of pulling the top part of the engine apart and examining it closely, piece-by-piece. We originally took this approach in an effort to avoid the more costly repair, if at all possible. We knew there was a chance that after all of the work that the valve stem seals could still be bad and would need replacement, which would cost about $2000 (we knew the compression was good because Toyota said it was, and so did our own wet/dry tests).

When we started to dig in and began painting a picture of what was happening with the air flow, oil flow and mixtures of each into the cylinders, it became clear that the engine had no choice but to smoke. I am happy I was able to get the van back on the road at 70,000 miles without it looking like a mosquito control device...a fact I think my wife is far happier with than I, but not everyone will be so lucky. We can now start the car at soccer games and not feel embarrassed by the huge plume of smoke hanging over the crowd!

SOURCE: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/274-sienna-2nd-generation-2004-2010/227571-2005-sienna-oil-sludge-3.html

flossboss:
Hello sorry just seeing your response my location is anthony village Lagos. Have you set up shoo yet?

Yes.

Call me or WhatsApp me, let me give you a referral

Evasmil4:
does this mean the hyundai has not work since November till now?

I'll post pictures and a report of the repair

I have been unable to find time to post the details of the fix because of multiple commitments

Thanks for your concern

Gracesofar:
OK bro. How do we communicate? Nd wen will u be chanced am at 82div army barracks there. Probably we can discuss the whole stuff and fix a time for meeting

PM me or send me a WhatsApp message

I am in Enugu I can help you scan and retrieve codes...but I will not be here for long...

Love the way you work....love to meet you somewhere sometime...your base?

Methodical... painstaking...fixing root causes and not symptoms...wanting to know why and how....not scared to ask for help...I could go on and on...keep it up!

Hellustic:
Good Day,
Please can i know a Good engine oil available for Mazda MPV 2003 Model. I really had a Bad experience with Engine oil and my previous Vehicle ( Honda Odyssey) and i dont want to take chances again
Thanks for your Help.

Use 6L.

You make do with 5L if you never drive over 100 km/h.

If you ever do sustained high speed driving, then 6L is a must.

Kudos

HenryWilliams:
I'll love to see you do that.. How can I get hold of you?

Chat me..number in my signature