₦airaland Forum

VolvoS60:
^^^
You have a point about there not being a one size fits all method. The problem (if I can call it that) is that 'long' and 'short' are relative. That's why I prefer specific mileage or time intervals to guide me in the choices I make.

I use my 12 year old vehicle (Toyota Corolla) primarily for short trips (intracity transport). It has about 86,000 miles (probably more since I suspect the odometer was rolled back before purchase), and I drive on both good and bad (dusty) roads - in dense, bumper to bumper traffic (most of the time). I typically do not cover up to 5,000 miles before the maintenance required light comes on - the light usually comes on within 6 to 8 months after the last oil change. I would go bankrupt if I had to do an oil change every month!

I have another 11 year old vehicle driven under roughly similar conditions - but the car doesn't have an oil life monitor or a maintenance required light. It has about 126,000km and I do oil changes every 8 months or so on average. The car's still running fine.

As an aside, why does 20w 50 oil get such a bad rep? Brand new Toyotas sold in Nigeria as recently as 2012 have 20w 50 oils as one of the approved viscosities. If it is so bad why would Toyota approve it?

Interesting. You see in the end it is finding the best formula that works for you. Also 20w50 is not bad oil sir. What is bad is the quality we have here in nigeria. Sincere apologies if that is how i sounded. When i used the 1999 nissan altima, i used oando 20w50. That was the only one i trusted. And it served me well. I ensured i serviced every 3 months. Whether i use d car or not. I do my service. And that engine was amazing. Purring like a kitten. Instant power when i throttle. Quiet engine even at about 20 year old and mileage of about 250miles plus. Ofcourse there are 20w50s that are synthetic, if i cld lay my hands on that, i will use it. And my choice of using that oil grade is the engine mileage.

Kingsdave:
Thanks bro... Does it mean its faulty?

scan code will help get more information on the problem.
however, when you disengage the park brake, does the light go off?
if it still stays on, hope U do not experience a drag while driving?
for the parking brake, your light might stay on if the park brake switch is bad. check it. foe VSC kindly provide scan data. it might not be related to the park brake light.

adisaaowala:
Lest I forget, car is a 2008 accord

check the sender unit. there is a possibility it sends wrong signal to the dashboard module due to rust or dirt around that area. clean the surface properly. reinstall and test.

VolvoS60:
^^^
Every month is excessive (I'm assuming your engine doesn't have any problems). Most auto manufacturers recommend an oil change after thousands of kilometres (5,000 and above) or several months (6 months and above). Modern motor oil is designed around these specifications.

I believe US spec Hondas have oil life monitors. Not sure Euro spec models do - if they don't then your owners manual should have oil change intervals with values similar to what I mentioned above.

when it comes to oil change, i have discovered one size never fits all. oil change is dependent on alot of factors ranging from where the car is being used (dusty area or not), average distance travelled per trip, state of engine (low mileage or high mileage.)
Now this is what i personally advice,
1. for a car dt does long trips often, i will suggest long service intervals as U stated above since d engine gets to work at optimal temperature for long.
2. however for short trips i would advice shorter service intervals since in some instances the engine might not heat up as required. tho 1 month might be a little extreme, probably something in between.
3. For areas that have alot of dust - short service intervals.
4. high mileage vehicles - short service intervals. probably a step up on oil grade depending on engine cylinder compression state.
In light of this I would also like to point out manufacturers of lubes are really advancing in the oils dey manufacture now that whether long or short trip, the oil does the job. However considering the naija factor where in most users use 20w50 or lower grade oil, there is need to advice them right based on each user.
So as an automobile technician, i consider such factors as location, type of user, drive style, maintenance culture, average distance travelled, engine mileage and maintenance history and also recommended oil grade. based on this i dont ever suggest 5000miles or whatever for anybody as a general rule.... this is my personal preference pls...

dannybrasky:
Lol! I go come back come quote you next week

so this one wey U do nko? na wetin?

kernniejay:
Me sef no understand o, na vehicle we dey yarn o before i begin dey hear kilishi, gado nasco etc. make dem go open another thread for kilishi and area 1 nah, abeg.

That is why they are bullies. They enter your thread and take over... even u wey buy land sef, u no go get space again

obekediamondfuto:
Next week is around the corner....

Don't beg me oh

Ahn ahn person cannor play with you ni?
Oya sorry naaaaa

HeavenlyBang:
This thread will be something of a diary for my car. I've always wished more people detailed their car ownership experiences online in Nigeria, so this is just an attempt to be the change I want to see.

It will contain info about my more long-term gripes about the car, encounters, maintenance and fixes, expenses, etc. Basically should give anyone who's looking to buy one of the VQHR a cars a good idea of what to expect, especially since I've gotten tons of emails on updates.

Following keenly
Ride looks super dope shaaaaaa ahn ahn. Dt black is a perfect fit.
Obekediamondfuto, dannybrasky pls u ppl r not welcome here...

jceesquare:
See as them bullies just hijack the post from OP and engineer.
SMH

As in bro... dey av no chillz ad no respect... walai i wish we fit dey flog ppl online

AutoMoTech:
WHY DOES MY CAR KEEP BLOWING FUSES?

Every vehicle has a fuse box somewhere in the cabin, usually underneath the steering column near your feet or hidden within the glove box. These fuses are safety devices consisting of a strip of wire that melts and breaks an electric circuit if that current exceeds a safe level. You will know is you blow fuse because any of the components on that circuit will stop working, like the radio, the interior lights, or the electric side mirrors. There are a few reasons why you might continually blow the same fuse. Let’s take a look at the usual culprits.



The fuse is the incorrect amperage rating
Let’s start with something simple and obvious. Be sure to check, first, that the fuse has the correct amperage rating for the circuit it is in. The vehicle’s manual should contain a diagram with this information. Check what devices or lights are on that circuit, as it may be the case that a new amplifier pulls too much power, causing the fuse to blow. The more devices there are on one circuit, the heavier the amp load.

Each electric device, including headlights and radios, pulls a certain amount of amps from the electrical system. The number embossed on the fuse, such as 5, 10 or 15, indicates how many amps may be pulled through the fuse before it blows. Each wire in a car has a specific gauge or thickness. The amount and type of conductor used in a wire determines how much power it can handle before it overheats and melts. Electric devices also have these same limitations. They can only handle so much power before catastrophic failure and possibly a dangerous fire occur. Fuses protect both the wiring and the devices in the vehicle.



You have a short
A short circuit is simply a low resistance connection between the two conductors supplying electrical power to any circuit. There are three main causes of a short circuit. Each one has tell-tale signs we look for during our investigation. The three causes from the most common to the least common are:

+An electrical device has failed. If a wiper motor or power lock solenoid have fried and melted on the inside, it might start drawing too much power in an attempt to keep working. This overloads the circuit causing a short and a blown fuse.
+Friction against a wiring harness has caused the wire insulation to fray. This exposed wire can cause a short when it touches a ground surface. This is often the cause of intermittent shorts. As the wire moves it may only occasionally come in contact with a surface that will cause a short and a blown fuse.
+Any connector that gets exposed to the elements could cause a short circuit. If you a leak that is soaking your carpets it could cause a wet wiring harness. A wet harness can corrode over time causing an eventual short circuit and many blown fuses.


If you blow a fuse
To see if a fuse has blown, the first step is to consult the owner’s manual. The location of the box and the assigned circuit for each fuse should appear in a diagram in the manual. Most newer cars allow removal of the fuse box lid by hand or with a flat head screwdriver. Some fuses are designed to come out by hand, while others require a pair of tweezers or a smaller pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect each fuse visually, and replace as necessary. They only cost a few cents and it is a good thing to know how to do. They can be purchased from any car parts shop or hardware store.

WHY DOES MY CAR KEEP BLOWING FUSES?

dessycute:
I wish you will open a repair centre in Ilorin, I take care of my cars like egg sir but have not come across a competent mechanic like you in this town.
You can recommend one for me if it’s available sir

Fear not. I'll be launching in ilorin soon...

Mayor555:
You sabi jare....
The v6 engine is same with the one present in 99 sienna.... It's also rugged..

Nice..... i see those engines in 99 siennas from ilorin to lag, and those things are going strong.....

duality:
I'm also supprised how it has higher price than Honda baby boy

And they are both almost on par in terms of design and reliability o. Honda just doesnt hold as much value as toyota over time regardless of how better designed they are. Tho the yota doesnt pull leg sha... bt our dearly beloved baby boy e be like baba dey pull leg anyau

Mayor555:
A brother uses one, it was bought toks 2008 the engine has never been opened, the AC is stock, no modifications whatsoever, the body still very okay.... The car is very very strong. That's the reason for the good value..

Yes. I can attest to that. They almost dont die. In as much as you do the regular maintenance. My mums own, timing belt has cut several tyms. Just buy, fix and u r on ur way... nothing like say valve bend like interference engines. 20w50 since God knows when and nothing like sludge or reduced perfromace. I salute that car abeg. I believe their v6 variants shld also be as rugged...

Mayor555:
To be honest sir, he can't find a very clean one for 600k... To get a clean one, him go arrange 700k.

Tor... dt 600k sef if at all he gets, na with plenty beg plus if d buyer get luck. Those cars even as old as they are dont come cheap. Its quite fascinating how they still hold a relatively good value in naija (toks or registered) even considering their age. Averaging 20 years... dts quite impressive if i may say.

TotoNaRubber:
Hi RangeRover Lovers.

Quick question on the later model of Range Rover; I have been asking about the Velar from a dealership and was told the engine size is a 2.0 L, i was amazed at the engine size capacity but my question is does it imply the 2.0L engines are more fuel efficient than the regular Nissan 3.5L engine.

Also, does this imply the Velar with a 2.0L engine is as efficient as a normal toyota car of 2.0L engine, i know this is not likely as the Velar has tubor power charge that zoom fuel consumption quicker.

Someone who could clear this out can pls explain.

If the Velar is that fuel efficient, it is well worth driving on daily basis.

Allow me to chip in something here. Diesel engines are known to achieve way better MPG than its petrol counterpart. However the gap has been reduced in recent times due to advanced tech in engine development.
Secondly turbocharged engines do not consume more fuel than non-turbos. Rather it produces more power since U have more compressed air insyd the cylinder.
on that note a 2.0L diesel-powered engine plus turbo... baba dts mad power and economy considering the cylinder size (2.0L).
Also sir, pls dont ever put a 2017 rangerover Velar with a koyota kamury even if they have same engine displacement in same sentence biko.... dem nob mates plus they belong to different classes or segments.

Rickpapi:
Cc: Nurey, Heavenlybang, Gazzuz, autojoshnig.

So I’m purchasing my first ever car..I’m not very good at driving yet, hopefully when I get mine by this month end I’ll perfect my driving skills...

I’m actually purchasing an ES330 as I’ve always wanted that baby..So here comes my first question...

- Nigerian Used or Foreign Used?
I’ve heard people complain about foreign used car giving them problems in even less than 6months and same about Nigerian used. Money isn’t a problem here, I just want something that’s very neat and won’t start bothering me too soon..Some people say Nigerian used as long as I go with a competent mechanic.. What’s your take?

-Secondly What daily maintenance would have to carry out, to ensure it stays in good shape...

-Also I hear people giving advice on scanning vehicles before changing parts. Who does the scanning? My mechanic? I know this is weird but it’s my first car, so please pardon me.

-I’ve had friends whose cars starts fading after one year, especially silver color and that’s the color I plan on getting, so how do I avoid that? I heard car wrapping can avoid fading? How true is that? And is it advisable to cover my car with that cloth used in covering cars? I plan on covering the seats too with those seat cover as I intend using the car for a long time before changing it and I want it looking like new still

-And I’d like if I can get a few do’s and don’t that is important to someone who’s buying his first car, for example I’ve learnt it’s not advisable to let these car wash guys pour water into your engine.

-I’ll post more questions when they come to mind


Thanks..
Please, help a brother..
I love maintaining my gadgets just like I’d maintain a woman I love.

1. Brother man, if U dey lag save yourself the stress, get in touch with Gazzuzz.
Naija used or Toks, U will be getting an amazing deal.
2. Perfect your driving first. If not your first car will not be appealing after few months. Have you considered getting a less expensive car first that you can use for a year just to better your driving before getting your dream ride?
3. A foreign car can be a lemon. So also Naija used. Hencd refer to No. 1 or any other competent professional mech you can trust.
4. Daily maintenance: drive safe, check your fluids, imbibe a preventive maintenance culture, pay attention to the "babe". IF you hear pkekem, check it out not until it turns to kakakakokokokikiki
5. Car care is not just about scanning but diagnosis. Scanning is just one of many ways of gathering data to solve your problem. Get yourself a DIY grade scanner, it helps for the simple stuffs. Next Get a competent automobile technician for the difficult stuffs. Let him handle the "diagnosis". Parts dont fix cars. Changing faulty parts zfter after thorough diagnosis always does.
6. As per paint care, you can wash your car urself if u dnt mind. a good rag, bucket of water and water alone can do the job. PERSONALLY i dont do car wash. Some of them use sacks, so that it will foam well but that is one thing dt scratches d paint even most. The car and seat covers are good ideas.
7. For first time car owner,regular engine "clean" with wet rag is good enuf. Car wash sometimes can lead to terrible experiences.

Hope i av not talked too much. Happy car buying and using brother

tripoli007:
I never won die bros .. Na me be the only boy ,wey my mama born

Hahahaha no worry. Mama go arrange anoda one

GAZZUZZ:
TPMS light Gone after installing new tyres.

you mean to say the TPMS sensors were still good? for a car of that age? thats impressive...

autologic:
Nice observation .All computers ( modules ) are very sensitive to voltage level ie threshold voltage . Threshold voltage in the sense that below a certain range it will shut down . However the threshold differs from modules to modules cos their functions differs .,EPS basic function is to directly drive and actuate steering motor assist for ease of steering function hence so much current is involved than what other actuator for other modules will normally consume .,therefore power level is too important for it function - Mathematically ,power = (Voltage × Current ) so what do u think will happen if the voltage level reduces due to a bad alternator ,power will drop too , which is why that EPS shut down cos it's own threshold has been faulted and other modules might still be surviving ,but I am also sure some modules especially abs and ecu too will start to flash code about " low voltage fault" but might not give up yet .
These is nothing like short or bad ground in this case o only low voltage .

first highlighted point makes sense and sure aligns with my line of thought. but i don't fully agree on the second until a test is carried to ascertain that under circuit stress we dont have voltage drop or a higher than expected resistance within that circuit. just for learning sake anyway.

autologic:
Kindly note that it was the EPS (Electronics power steering ) computer that set the code due to not getting up to the enough threshold voltage for proper operation . Alternator has already packed up and battery power will not be sufficient enough to power the EPS .
Note that for every module operation ,the most important source are the feed voltage and good ground,and below par ,it will start to malfunction .
Finally ,stop putting to much emphasize on codes codes cos it can lead you astray atimes ,endeavour to learn how things works electrically cos codes are mere algorithms and no way for algorithms to cover all aspect of a particular system malfunctions accurately ,you need electrical knowledge to make up for all shortcomings of codes . Electrical is still the foundation of whatever you see as codes or computer algorithms.
for nowadays cars o , electrical control the mechanical and without good electrical knowledge you can only be a part changer.
Electrical has taken over !

The question was why did the low voltage supply from the alternator only affect the EPS and not any other module? I have looked up the code initially and i suggested checking the battery and alternator. So thats resolved. Reason i asked the above question is what if the EPS has a bad ground, or there is a short in the coil windings? Or some other underlying issues? Why did no other module throw a code but only the EPS?

Mannkkindd:
Yes it does and vibrates while in traffic.
Does it also jerk at idle?
What other symptoms have you noticed?
Will be expecting the scan data

Vibration in traffic might be due to misfire o. THe jerk is what is confusing me. Kindly scan broda so we can know the way forward

GAZZUZZ:
left the car again for another day to attend to other things.


After a lot of checks, fuel gauge was sorted out, I left engine to run almost the whole day and Ma guy was gallant...

In the evening I went to buy fuel it went well.

I parked it in the workshop, and went home.

Next day, I sent the bois on errands with the same vehicle... it went well...

We were all pleased, but the battery light was still slightly dim when engine was running.

Tested the charging voltage and it was within spec.

I started checking all ground connections and sanded them before reconnecting.. All grounding in engine bay also.

The battery light was still doing strong thing.

I added more ground connections from the body to the battery and from batt + to the positive connector on external Fusebox.

Battery light finally went off.

Major ground connection in the engine bay causing this?

GAZZUZZ:
Next series of days I did nothing, I just left the car and focused on my hybrid and other jobs that came in.


After a lot of (gazzuz.z how far with my car) from the client I told the bois to take down the dashboard so we can inspect all the wiring.

We found more corrosion on sockets and we were pleased

Local mokalik is pleased

GAZZUZZ:
Monday morning, I gallantly entered ladipo market, Bought the fuse box, got some other parts too and headed back to workshop.

I installed the Fusebox coupled the car and it started just fine.

Local man was impressed with him sef.

For quality assurance, I took the vehicle home that night, it sailed through very thick traffic like a champion and got home without event. I reported my successes to the client and told him in the morning he could come pick up the car.

Early next morning 6am I headed out with the car. 300meters from my house

All lights on cluster went off..... And engine shut down

I told my self gazzuzz the terrestrial powers are after you

After every manipulation I did to try to start the car wa a waste of time.

I had to serve my ban like a man

I waited it out, by 6:45am, car started I drove to the shop, parked vehicle and left in another vehicle.


At this point there were more questions than answers.


I messaged client not too come for car again.

That day passed and I did nothing to the car.


Next day, I started car in workshop and left engine running. After about 3 hours it went off I inspected all the adjoining wiring under the dashboard on drivers side, found more sockets that had corrosion, and cleaned them after the cleaning car started, but this time around I took no chances, I cannot come and kee my sef, I left vehicle running in workshop.

Car still went off again and as usual we had to wait it out.

The car be dancing , madu madu on your matter

GAZZUZZ:
www.nairaland.com/attachments/9644785_9488890imagejpeg9f360c5ab7736510df54c882e9dbf188_jpeg_jpeg3be4de855ac00d8c6488f4b3c73d3930

Daddy has started to run away from pathfinder too?

seanfer:
Yes. The Vibe is made in the US. The Chinese never get the parts like that of Matrix and Corolla. Vibe front bumper is about 40k.

Interesting...

Mannkkindd:
It gives a mild jerks between 50 and 60km/hr ,it becomes severe between 100 and 120km/hr.
I will have it scanned tommorow and give you guys a feedback.

Does it also jerk at idle?
What other symptoms have you noticed?
Will be expecting the scan data

GAZZUZZ:
Vehicle inspection

Confirmed, the car was wrapped, and the black paint work was still first body.

Body: 95/100 very good factory first body
Chassis: 0 impact, 0 rust 100/100
Suspension: looks perfect 95/100
Interior: rug stained in the trunk, but fair 95/100
Electrical accessories: all functional 100/100
Battery: bad 10/100
Engine bay: Extremely neat. 98/100
Engine: engine oil on low mark caused by a ruptured pressure hose on bank1 that was crudely fixed, no sludge, no knocking sounds, no tell tale of previous major engine work, all stock. 95/100
Transmission: transmission oil colour border line, no leaks from seals. 100/100
Air-conditioning: all stock no errors. 100/100
Tyres: fair condition 60/100
Scan codes: no error codes on drive train or airbags. TPMS faulty module. 0/100
Drive test. Very smooth drive, quiet cabin, no suspension noises. 95/100
Paper work. All in order. 100/100

Done.

Time to bargain with sellers.

And the ipob in you is revealed

sheantip:
To cut long story short, alternator was the problem.
it wasn't supplying enough current to the steering, alternator was replaced and steering came back to life.

automotech and kingreign, Thanks for taking your time to respond to me. God bless.

More importantly thanks for the feedback. Helps us as techs to also grow Nd learn. Wouldnt have thot a faulty alternator would set an open circuit code for the power steering motor. ECU can be a crazy guy atimes shaaaa.
But i still wonder why would it throw a code for the PSP alone and nothing else?
Kingreign autologic autoelectng trygo any ideas?
Quite interesting I must admit. Thanks for d feedback.

seanfer:
Vibes body part is expensive. But it’s a cool ride

Wow really? More expensive than the matrix and corolla?