TO FIX AC Hoses not yet installed after engine swap. Instrument cluster needs replacement. Tires
MERITS *Car has no rust whatsoever for its age. *Never resprayed *All shocks are OEM Sachs and very new. All front suspension components were recently changed with genuine components. Car drives like a dream
atims73: My brother don't be afraid to help anyone who needs a bit of your battery juice, I drive a similar car and had same issues until I found out it wasn't a problem after all...I even had to teach my EXPERIENCED MECHANIC this procedure. The on-board computer has to relearn and there two ways of teaching it; the first which I don't fancy is driving the car at high speed for about an hour or two (you had earlier used this method unknowingly), the second, follow links below to watch the video. I am an electrical technician so I don't have problems handling most things myself. if you are not sure you can do it get your mechanic to watch the video and trust me you will be teaching something new. Note this problem and solution is only applicable to late 2002 to 2006 Toyota Camry. Enjoy!
mike070: Hellonall. Good evening all. Pls I hav a small issue with my reliable Camry 2004 I4 engine. Whenever I remove my battery to help someone start his or her car when I reconnect mine i always have cylinder 4 misfire. Have swapped iginition coils and have the same problem on cylinder four meaning that cylinder 4,ignition coil is good. also changed spark plug but notice th same misfire. The last time it happened I had to travel with the car for a long distance and all of a sudden the car behaved like it was brand new. Since den it has been wow. Now I help someone with my battery and the problem has showed up.again. any suggestions guys. Thanks all.. Cc Gazzuzz et al.
Do a freeze from data screen grab of the moment you swap batteries and the moment the car starts driving without a misfire.
Compare the fuel trims and revert.
You have done coil and plug swap and the issue still remains on cylinder 4. This implies that the misfire is being caused from the fuel line and not the ignition line.
Remove injector 4, inspect and give it a good clean. Ensure the o rings are not damaged. Best to clean all injectors while at it.
thergha1: [b][/b][b][/b]please i want toget a camry pencil and i have earlied read in d place that the best ones are the one from germany...please can you please enlighten me and tell me the differnces between the americans specs and the other specs available and the best one to go for...@ikenna., @egunmogaji...n other car experts in the house....thanks
Rupect: I have this Lexus Rx300, recently I took it to a mechanic village at trade fair Lagos and I told the mechanic to change engine fan from automatic to manual which he did and afterward I notice that my car battery visca power runs down after packing the car for like 3 days without driving.
Unlike before I can pack it for like a week without driving and it still starts after a week packed.
Please what could be the possible cause of this. Is it that the changes I made in the fan or is the car battery getting week? Should I change it or charge it?
Please I need your urgent reply. The car battery is 2years now it a follow come battery with the car.
If there is a good mechanic around Ojo Alaba, Volks or Okoko side of Lagos that can be of help can pm me please.
Why did you 'rewire' your fan?
Can you kindly return the fan back to the default settings?
Evidently, your tech has done a kind of wiring that keeps the new and unnecessary fan relay energized at all times thereby sapping your battery.
I am keenly waiting for this 'project' to be completed then raced against another original beetle through twisty roads and see which one wins.
First, upon what is that FWD engine sitting on? How is that weight being transferred to the whole suspension?
When I brake hard from a mere 100km/h, how do you ensure that the yansh of the vehicle does not go up like a Wembley football?
Can you also share how you intend to steer the vehicle? Using the old Steering Box which was designed to handle a lesser front weight or adding a rack and pinion from a Golf MK2? Kindly shed more light on this.
Cooling...now you need a radiator. Where would you put it? Same front? This implies the iconic beetle shape is lost...oh I forgot, you have already sawn off the fenders and other remnants of the beetle's prestige. How about flattening the roof to make it a complete love-vendor?
Oh....gearing...I almost forgot. How would you do that now? The golf's transmission too? That means the clean space under the Beetle's dash would now have a slight clutter. You might want to use the golf's centre console to cover that space up too.
Rear suspension? Golf 2 too? The weight loss fr the back....any counter measure?
Now handling... Good old handling...remember my opening sentence about racing your 'pimped' beetle. I would like to see how it turns out.
First, a race between your beetle and another stock beetle then a race between your beetle and a golf 2. Please don't make it a drag race or straight line race but a race within twists, curves, ups and downs...a normal race.
PS: the only way you can make this work a bit well is to take the whole chassis component of a golf MK2 and put it under the body of a VW Beetle.
This implies cutting a complete golf MK2, removing the body parts on top and swapping same with the body shell of a VW beetle...a kind of Golf 2 in a beetle's coat.
princemillla: The thing they give me issue.... I had issues with my previous one and had to buy another one 180k yet still not working. (it hesitate and not sharp in movement)
valarinz: I was once driving down from oshodi to ikeja on heavy traffic, was using my car AC too, suddenly I noticed I had to depress the brakes twice as hard to avoid hitting the vehicle in front of me, temperature gauge was still showing it at the middle where it should be (a fault with the gauge which I never knew about till this incidence occured), looking at the dashboard and everything seemed fine I kept driving and the brake stuff was getting worse and I was already contemplating on how to go and get my brakes checked out. Next thing I saw was vapor coming out of my bonnet and the hissing, alas, my car was overheating, quickly pulled off the road before engine went off and waited for it to cool off and bled with water before I continued.
Now, after this, the brakes went back to performing normally once more, now can you pls assist in providing an explanation as to why the incident with the brakes did happen. Vehicle in question was a 2004 Volvo S60, 2.4l turbo engine. I'll be waiting as this forms a major basis for my conviction that the mechanic the OP talked about do have a point.
Thanks
I have a simple question in this line.
If you had coincidentally had a flat tire at that same time, would you have attributed it also as a consequence of over heating?
moscobabs: One of our company vehicles had an accident this morning due to break failure It was towed back to office but everybody was surprise when the company company Mechanic said "The break failure might be as a result of Overheating "
Gazuzz, autoreports , naijacarlovers,Autosbay,hrhjnr and other gurus in the house please come and give us lecture on this issue.
Thanks sirs
The mechanic and the driver are friends.
The mechanic is simply trying to protect his friend.
First, he claims the car was overheating. What is the procedure that a professional driver takes when the car overheats? Does he keep accelerating up to speeds that can cause serious damage via accident or drive slowly, park and sort the problem?
To those who mention hard brake pedal when engine is off and softer pedals when engine is running, it is simply the brake booster doing its work.
The only connection of a standard brake system to the engine is via a simple vacuum hose. The temperature of the engine has virtually no relationship with the brake system; except the car was literally burning and fire was gutting everything.
And by the way, was your fabled mechanic a forensic expert? How was he able to do a post-accident evaluation that made him conclude so confidently that engine overheating caused the accident?
alabiyemmy: It's a 2006 cls 500 which I acquired in 2009, so I am not new to it and it has been serviced by mechanics who know their worth.
Prior to the problem, the fluid drained out due to a leaking pipe and this was fixed and everything was ok and I drove it for a while. I used star gear oil from M Benz.
I don't have the obd scanner but a couple of times before parking it with the mechanic, it has been scanned and it was saying valve body, but after buying and changing the valve body, the trouble continues.
I don't think the codes will just say 'Valve Body'. There are many components on the valve body.
Secondly, you seem to have a 722.9 tranny and a valve body swap alone is not the repair process.
It is evident you need a new technician for your car's tranny problem.
You can visit my workshop for a proper diagnosis and repair. Location is Abule Egba, Lagos
NB: fixing a 722.9 tranny is not cheap. Diagnosis, coding, flashing, relearning etc would cost you at least 60k to 100k and this does not include cost of hardware components like the TCM,Valve Body or the complete transmission as a whole (depending on damage). Genuine Star oil costs over 4,000 per litre and you would need 8 litres average plus a new OEM filter.
vicdom: Broh, even the so called Google I visited for the possible causes never mentioned ' cranking sensor' but 'cranking shaft'. I believe now that a problem can come in several ways bro
There is nothing called cranking sensor or cranking shaft.
There is the Crankshaft. It is the main shaft in the engine to which all pistons are connected via the connecting rod.
There is a Crankshaft position sensor that senses the position of the crankshaft at all times. This assists in knowing which of the cylinders is ready for intake stroke (for fuel air mixture ingress) and power stroke (to enable proper spark).
There is also the camshaft sensor that monitors the position of the camshaft and adjusts the timing accordingly especially in variable valve timing systems.
As said earlier by some posters, the first step is vehicle diagnosis by a professional.
You have Google, yet you don't treat all personal ailments at home, why should you subject your car to trial and error?
POSITIVE fuel trim values mean the engine computer is adding fuel (increasing the pulse width or on-time of the fuel injectors) to add more fuel to the engine. In other words, it is attempting to RICHEN the fuel mixture because it thinks the engine�s air/fuel mixture is running too lean. NEGATIVE (-) fuel trim values mean the engine computer is subtracting fuel (decreasing the pulse width or on-time of the fuel injectors) to reduce the amount of fuel injected into the engine. This is done to LEAN out the fuel mixture to compensate for what it perceives as a rich running condition.
Remember, all this is based on what the oxygen sensors are telling the engine computer. If the O2 sensors indicate LEAN, the computer adds fuel and generates a POSITIVE fuel trim value. If the O2 sensors are reading RICH, the computer compensates by subtracting fuel and generates a NEGATIVE fuel trim value.
By reading the STFT and LTFT fuel trim values on a scan tool while your engine is running, you can tell if the air/fuel mixture is running rich (negative fuel trim percentages) or lean (positive fuel trim percentages).
What Fuel Trim Values Should Be
Ideally, the STFT and LTFT should be within a few percentage points of zero when the engine is idling or being held at a steady RPM. Remember, STFT can bounce around quite a bit as when you suddenly snap open the throttle or decelerate. But LTFT can tell you if the average fuel/mixture is running rich or lean.
Good LTFT values should be as close to zero as possible, though they can range from 5 to 8 percent depending on the condition of the engine. If the LTFT is getting up around 10 percent or higher, it usually indicates a problem that needs to be diagnosed
OBAnkemi: For me a die-hard Benz lover, it's pathetic to see that a 2017 508 which shud be in d same class as a Benz E-Class has only 6-Speed auto tranny! A w203 Benz C-Class as far back as 2006/2007 has a 7-Speed auto tranny,.....and perhaps every other option/luxury niceties that 2017 508 has. Up till 2015/2016, Accord at best has a 6-Speed auto tranny,......how can these cars compete with a Mercedes-Benz that is at least 7yrs older in year of manufacture?
sooperrescue: where can you get it. Definitely not total q9000 which is not complaint with the new generation peugeot cars. So if you dont patronise the dealers, where else can you get the oil?
Oil lubes in Nigeria currently do not have any 30 weight oil except say Mobil.
However, things are changing gradually and I think they would all soon.
scozy: saw a post here where someone asked if you can buy 1952 volkswagen beetle (ijapa) for 30 million naira https://www.nairaland.com/3636856/buy-rusty-1952-volkswagen-beetle Even this customised one gaaan NO worth that amount i dey craise ni mind u this was the car used in MAD OVER YOU video by RUNTOWN. see pics below
How do you determine worth?
Your inability to spend X amount of money does not imply others are limited too.
Value is like beauty...no be everyone sabi am and our tastes dey different.
PS: picture shows a VW Beetle I restored for a very private client...it was not cheap.
Other classic projects are in the pipeline W114 coupe, BMW E30 coupe, VW Beetles etc.
yellowdukeemma: auto,a/c,neat interior and exterior,sound engine for travelling,non accidented.and more call duke plz call 07031329766 or whatapp on 08182055586 preferrably,no texting plz cos wouldnt reply,thank you
*wash, wash and wash *remove rag basin in battery tray *arrange interior properly and show whether auto or manual *inflate tires *show rear end and boot
Price of imported cars would skyrocket...the average car dealer has been shipping via the land borders and short -paying duties in the last few years, this cheap alternative is being removed hence the expected increase in price
Smuggling would resume in earnest. Even with the ban on rice and turkey, it is still being imported on large scales, how much more cars.
Car theft would increase.
Most car buyers would look inwards and buy Nigerian used cars. The economic situation is actually increasing the supply of this market and I don't envisage a large increase in used car values due to this. Infact, it is very possible that Nigerian used car values would come down dollar wise.
Taking the case of the 1999 Toyota Camry aka pencil light, the car which sold for #600,000 when dollar was still #200 ( $3000) now retails for around #650,000 at a dollar rate of over #400 ($1,625). The same trend is expected in further years.