₦airaland Forum

Desmied:
.......
Thank you so much and happy weekend...

OEM toyota 3500-4000....You mean the filter

How long does the oil last before you change another oil and filter (Changing interval)

I do not use my vehicle heavily, mostly 2 to 3 months in a year then I will travel out, based on what I read from 2007 TOYOTA RAV4 V6 "Toyota Engine Oil Chart".....The Toyota recommended engine oil and considering Nigeria weather: is 5W-30, it doesn't matter if it is conventional/synthetic blend/semi synthetic or fully synthetic.

Your recommended oil is 10W-40 which is also not bad, But I will like to compare the prices of Mobile 1 - 5W-30 and Pertamina Fastron GOLD 5W-30. (My budget for the 4 liters of Oil and Filter is N10,000, if it exceeds that amount then I will go for your recommended oil)

>>>Can you tell me the price of the Pertamina Fastron GOLD 5W-30

My little fear is, if a 20W-50 conventional engine oil has been used previously on the vehicle before I got it, then I don't know if I change to 5W-30 it will cause oil leakage in the vehicle.

ANOTHER IMPORTANT THING:
I wanted to change the GEAR OIL but I am a bit worried because of your experience so it won't result to gear problems, what is your advice about changing gear oil

Thanks.
Desmied

It was Gazzuzz that mentioned Toyota's OEM. The Fastron I use is 5W 30. When my vehicle was due for first service with me, I could not find the recommended weight so, I researched and got this one. Initially used gold, but decided it was on overkill.

Go ahead and change your ATF. Make sure they drop the sump, and replace the filter.

I change my oil after 5000 miles (the ECU will remind you). I went for synthetic because by the time you get to 5000, your engine has done more than that in Lagos traffic.

GAZZUZZ:
this movie haf not finis o!

We must still test the gear you rebuilt

No wahala

Desmied:
@Kashif

Toyota Rav4 2007 V6,

I want to change engine oil and oil filter.

1. Which engine oil and oil filter will you recommend best for this vehicle.
2. How much is the price here in Lagos.

I need the answer from your experience since you are using the same vehicle.

Thanks
Desmied.

I have been using Pertamina Fastron synthetic since I got the vehicle. Cheaper than most synthetics, and does an excellent job.

The gold is overkill. The normal one with greenish label is it. Think I got it for 6k at my last service. The filter is an easy find for 1k.

Before I conclude, let me say that I was forced to undertake this quickly because my transmission was beginning to fail.

The problem degenerated from 2-3 flare to sluggish 1st.

Then there was 3-2 clunk

Then came binding in 2nd, which was very severe when cold. Once 2nd is commanded, it would be as if the brakes were being applied fully and released in quick succession. To reduce that, I would need to let the vehicle get warm, and then perform garage shift. . Nothing wears a friction faster than a bind.

Then finally lost 1st and 2nd gears. The vehicle will start in 3rd, even though the computer always commanded it properly. It would also not respond correctly to scan tool commands. Then I knew I had to do something quickly before I would be forced to drop the transmission, to attend to clutches burnt beyond use.

One more thing - I found my filter seal broken. Replaced with a new one.


In summary, I repaired the valve body; major additional work being on the solenoids. A lot happened in working on the solenoids, but I chose to leave it out so I can close this endeavour with this post. If anybody has a question, ask.

Put the valve body back, cleared adapts, warmed it up, performed garage shift, and took it for a test. It went straight through all the gears with silk shifts, to my pleasant surprise! I had expected it to start relearning. I have driven a bad transmission for so long I am yet to get used to a working one.

So brethren, I have overcome the notorious '13 pin'!



CC: Marpol

MPVGoddess:
Cool.

Well I don't but that product seems to the gold standard in cooler line cleaning hence my suggestion.

Keenly following your adventure

Well done

Kooler Kleen is okay, but not the gold standard. The gold standard is the hot cooler line flusher. When I grow up, I will buy it - costs starts from 750k!

UNIBENDON:
Sell your Skye now,because the bid will no more by 11am!

What are you feeling like?

Inception:
Take it from me!

Thanks.

Now, this is a very interesting part of the repair - Solenoid cleaning!

To be sure the valve body is absolutely clean, the solenoids must be clean. In being clean, I don't mean their valves, but the pintles! They reside in the coil bore, and have the tightest tolerance! Dirt there will cripple the transmission. They have lube only, unlike the valves that face pressure that will help dislodge any dirts. Now, one way around a sticking solenoid is to replace it with new, but it has been proven again and again that no aftermarket comes close to OEM. They are also pricey (who will pay 40k for one new solenoid?) If you have the means, clean them. Those solenoids HARDLY die electrically. Thankfully, these ones do not have bushing so it is just the labour in making sure they are clean internally.

Below is a solenoid opened up for cleaning. This is a sure remedy for sticking solenoids. 100%!

To be continued....

Once again, I pulled out my other valve body that failed woefully. By the time I was returning the vehicle to my mechanic to remove the failed valve body that January, the transmission was severely acting up - banging on engagement, flaring, binding etc.

On tearing this guy apart, what I saw in the lower VB was shocking! Most of the valves were sticking. The clutch application control valve was married to the bore. The 4-5 valve was so sticking it took 30 minutes of very meticulous picking to get it out! Only the primary pressure regulator valve was free. It was not that bad when I worked on it earlier.

Surprisingly, all the upper VB valves were free! Well, that points to one thing - the filter failed to do its job somehow! That is where the fluid gets to first, before going 'upstairs'.

This time, I was fully prepared for any dirts hiding anywhere. After pulling out the valves, the cleaning commenced. Valves' cleaning, bore cleaning using power tool, and clearing everything with compressed air.

I eventually shipped an oscilloscope and hooked it up to SL2 (this is the solenoid, whose hydraulic circuit was giving me wahala). Because I know that solenoid performance codes could be misleading, there was need to probe deeper. Let me not lie, I DID NOT WANT TO DO ANY MECHANICAL JOB ON THIS VEHICLE IF POSSIBLE. Call it truth denial, and you wont be wrong.

The purpose of this test is to exonerate or nail the ECU! I was preparing to buy a brand new ECU if this test failed. Wired up everything and the moment of truth....

The scope showed clearly that the computer was doing its job! The first picture shows what the computer is telling the solenoid right from ignition going on. You will notice the duty cycle is close to 50:50. In that state, it is considered on. Note that this solenoid is a PWM solenoid so is never off or on. It can only be close to off, or close to on. When the computer strategy commands 3rd, this solenoid is commanded off so that it can direct pressure to the desired circuit (it is a normally closed solenoid).

There is another that shows how the waveform looks like with much higher throttle pressure. That one shows the on phase at about 10:90. I am not able to find the frame again

So with this, I know the valve body needs some work; period!

Before going into the repair, it would be nice to have a little insight into the diagnosis.

One of the reasons there are issues with this transmission's 2-3 is because they are technically six speed - 1'2'3 lo,3hi,4,5. The three that is selected depends on the throttle pressure.

Initially, I thought that the flare was as a result of the 3rd engaging and disengaging but when I connected the pressure gauge to the C0 pressure tap, something else was playing out! When the TCM commands the 3rd gear, the flaring starts and at the same time, the pressure at this C0 tap, which should rise to between 54 and 60psi remains flat. It remains flat until the shift is completed. This clutch comes on from 3rd gear. There are other details I would not bore you with,

This threw up another puzzle - if the vehicle is stationary, and a scanner is used to command 3rd, the pressure rises immediately, and the shift happens and holds, no matter how hard you go on the gas. But once there is even 2mph on the dial, the flare is there! This got me pulling my hair! . I had to go back studying it's hydraulics. From what I was seeing, I could only blame the computer, or just electrical.

Meanwhile, I needed to travel to the east, and since I knew my direct clutch was not getting any pressure during this annoying flare, I drove it like that. The clutch would not burn! Who knows? It could clear after a long drive . Well drove it to and back same way.

Then I called for replacement ECU. The first one kept the engine misfiring and started the transmission in 3rd. The second behaved just like mine - 2-3 flare. I got demoralised. So, could there be problem with these two?

It was time to get an oscilloscope!

Inception:
popcorn go soon finish o!

Oga you no want make pop corn makers chop?

After the reset did not work, I started looking for a 'better' VCI cable. Imported one, and the one I had appeared to fare better; seemed I just wasted my money.

Meanwhile, I have VCI cable(s) for sale at good price o

Note: There might be a little chronological variation, since I did not record these activities.

I was inclined to believing that my problem was electrical so I was expending effort in making sure I get the TCM reset. Techstream kept telling me there was not reset available for my vehicle. I would try and try again, only for it to say done, bla bla bla.

I started looking for Toyota's original Techstream scanner, which I got my friend from a dealership to arrange for me. They brought it home, and initially struggled with it because there was a communication error with the ECU. At that moment, I was like aha! that must be why my own software was not doing it. I was already drooling!! After everything, the memory was 'reset'.

I took off for a test and after the the second ratio came the rhythm I have become very used to. Shoulders and head dropped. I paid for the service, and set them on their way!

My question remained - why should two different valve bodies have same symptoms if there is no electrical fault? I was dead sure it was not in the box!

I checked all grounds - everything was ok. I checked for EMI, nothing. Wetin remain na to check for radioactive materials My ECU was increasingly becoming a suspect....

Then I started looking for hydraulic pressure gauge, to see what was actually going on hydraulically inside the transmission. Getting one was almost impossible locally but, Gazzuzz supplied one.

MPVGoddess:
Why didn't you do the cooler line flush?

No Kooler Kleen?

How about a combination of

Air compressor?

water using garden hose with low pressure?

And completing with air compressor?

Allow to dry properly then using?

What are your thoughts

I did not want to disturb the system that much because I know the history of my problems. There were also no debris in the sump. I have air compressor, but not kooler kleen. I used it extensively on the valve body, which has been my area of concentration.

Was avoiding dropping the box also because I do not have a new torque converter.

You have kooler kleen?

Thread revival...

I did not abandon this quest; have been working in the background, but decided not to post anything anymore until I have gotten it to work. Over five months, I have been checking one thing or the other, buying one tool or the other, taking my time. I was buying the tools as the need arose. Each time hoping that one would pinpoint the issue. If it doesn't, an order is placed for another, which usually takes time. I eventually got it to work! However, two standard procedures were not followed - replacement of torque converter, and flushing of cooler line. I have my fingers crossed!

One thing I know for sure is this - Toyota 13pin (U150/250) can be repaired successfully.

I will post my undertakings so far, as I remember them. Where possible/necessary, there will be picture(s). Stay tuned.

autowiz:
Were is your workshop located . i will lake to chat. Pls pm your contact autodudez@gmail.com quote author=Kashif post=47280548]Is there anyone who knows new/remanufactured torque converter supplier locally?

Sent you a mail.

angels09:
I'll advice you go for a six month intensive mechanic training

Why?

mialate:
Thanks Kashif, do you know any good mech who can check and fix..

You will need to leave the vehicle there overnight.

mialate:
Hi great men, I drive a Nissan Maxima 1998 model.
Issues:
1. In reverse it jerks really hard before taking off same thing when it's in drive.
2. Morning ritual: it just never goes into drive without delays so if in hurry you need to use 2 or 1 for about 2 to 3 mins before it slides nicely into drive. At this point it doesn't give the hard jerk noise like the engine is about to fall off. Someone standing close by feels the jerk noise. Please I need a solution. Am based in Lagos

I suspect high line pressure, broken accumulator springs or worn clutches.

MODIFIED:

Did not read properly; now I understand it happens only cold. Meaning accumulator spring and clutch should be struck off the suspect list. Line pressure control system is where my money is.

dubaiprince:
Hello house, my car started vibrating as a result of a bad ignition coil. This was changed and it stopped. Now, when I start my vehicle and apply too much pressure on the throttle when hitting the road, the engine goes off. It starts without hesitation. What could be the cause of the engine going off? Gear problem as gear oil is kind of brownish? Spark plugs or coil not properly fixed or something with the gas pedal? Car is a Toyota matrix 2003. Thanks

Can't seem to figure out what transmission issue that could be causing engine to stall at acceleration. If while coming to a stop then we know what to look out for.

Get a competent hand to check your engine tuning. Meanwhile, change your transmission oil since you say it is brown.

klens:
does new brain box requires reprogramming?

First, no new ECU (brainbox) goes for 25k so yours is used. Second, 15k for programming is way too cheap, that is if it is an actual ECU reprogramming.

Unless he is referring to key registration.

lakefist:
c1729
B1129
B1145

Thats he wrote he told me he cleared the codes and dey never showed up after rescanning but that of A/T 1st Gr function and CAN Comm circuit[color=#990000][/color] he didn't write the codes Only told me the scanner came up with results.

Those are not transmission codes. First is chassis, second two are body. There may or may not be any transmission codes, but be sure the scanner can read transmission codes.

lakefist:
Have scan it and here is what the scanner detected:

A/T 1st GR Function
CAN Comm Circuit

- Transmission
- Shift Solenoid

He said i should change to dexron 3 atf and check the CAN wiring or take the car to gear specialist.

What do you suggest i am based in ibadan.

What are the codes?

aribolseg:
hello kashif

i sent u a mail

thanks

I have replied you.

Costee:
Lol. The list is not mine. FSM is factory service manual. And in this case it's for 2004 FX. But you know that these transmissions are driven as much by electronic gizmos as by mechanical components. That's why the items on the upper list should not be discountenanced. At any rate, if Nissan says the PNP switch could cause the present issue in their transmission it's up to us to check it out.
If sufficiently interested, I could find a way of passing the FSM over to you.
I truly wish Osama10 could land this in your bay.
PS. I consulted the symptoms chart, not clutch application chart, which is not available in the fsm. Perhaps we're on the same page after all: You want to start with clutch pressure gauge, and I say check the direct clutch solenoid.

Believe it or not, auto transmission professionals don't work with factory service manuals. Reason? They are full of confusions and junk! It is not surprising they dont contain clutch app charts, which is critical in diagnosis. They will list everything that has something to do with the transmission as suspect.

Before diagnosing an auto transmission , you need clutch chart, solenoid firing order, pressure port locations and spec, and code interpretations.

The fsm may list whatever but the better approach is determining what is not a cause. If three components share the same power and one is malfunctioning, common sense should tell you it's not power. Same principle applies here. Forward is good so, it CANNOT be TC or pump or CAN etc. That's my point.

Osama10:
Kashif,
Where is your bay?
Just a little observation, when I cold start & engage the reverse gear it reverses without any hesitation.
After then you have to rev up well to reverse.

Now that's a new dimension - reverse good when cold. I will have to think.

My bay is under construction

.

Kashif:
Do you need to post his name? His moniker will do.

Withdrawn. SaintJoel does not care

MaziOmenuko:
Oga come to literature section if you wan write novel. This is car talk, stop telling us how u caught malaria, where u slept and how jet lee almost defeated Jackie chan in the movie.

Abeg, make I go find other beneficial thread read.

No vex oga op, some of us have short attentive memory.

LOL!

Costee:
Quite agree. Anyway, I decided to consult the fsm on the matter, and here's what turned up:

On Vehicle
1. A/T fluid level and state
2. Line pressure test
3. Accelerator pedal position sensor
4. ATF pressure switch 5 and direct clutch solenoid valve
5. PNP switch
6. CAN communication line
7. Control linkage adjustment
8. Control valve with TCM

Off Vehicle
9. Torque converter
10. Oil pump assembly
11. 1st one-way clutch
12. Gear system
13. Reverse brake
14. Direct clutch
15. Forward one-way clutch
16. Forward brake

Yeah, there's a strong point for the reverse members (off vehicle); but I'd still try my hands on #4 in the vb (on vehicle).
At all events, it seems Osama10's tranny has elected to embark on an end time journey.

Which one is fsm?

Your list is endless. I will start with clutch pressure guage if it lands at my bay. Before consulting clutch application chart, can you tell me what CAN, PNP, TC, pump etc have to do with dragging reverse, when forward is good? TC and pump for instance do not care/know if you are in forward or reverse. They maintain same output.

bravolad:
Good evening Nairalanders,

I decided to share my experience of buying a car from Cotonou (SaintJoel; Jelad ventures). I share this experience so that intending buyers & members can learn from my experience & avoid my mistakes. It was indeed my first time to buy a car in Cotonou.

Do you remember this thread https://www.nairaland.com/3137468/useful-advice-buying-paying-required
When I sought to know if I could buy a car in Cotonou & proceed to make Custom duty payment by myself. I recall a few people commented on it. Please read through to get the crux of the matter.

To be continued....

Do you need to post his name? His moniker will do.

Costee:
A very strong possibility. Somehow, however, my own very limited personal experience of Jatco/Nissan trannies is that when the vehicle does not creep and there are no codes the issues are localised to the valve body, specifically a clogged line pressure solenoid valve. There are two sets of three solenoids that power the vb in Osama10's RE5R05A transmission. The first set: line pressure;torque converter; front brake. The second set: direct clutch;input clutch; high & low reverse clutch. Osama10 would have to be lucky to meet a trans specialist like you who would decide to attack the issue either from inside the trans case as you have suggested or from outside it as I'm inclined.

Low line pressure will affect forward and reverse, not only reverse. Forwards will even suffer more because reverse commands more pressure. Other problems that will have system effect are TC, pump, filter, etc. Pressure concerns are evident in shift feels - harsh, soft, delayed, stacked etc.

My money is on the reverse members on this one.

lordpapi:
its all good.
The gear box bottom plate was removed after draining all the oil , the valve body was the removed.
it was hard locating which solenoid was SL1, so all the solenoid was removed n cleaned, tested with battery to determined if its clicking. after cleaning of the valve body n all the solenoids, and was about to be replaced, a gear specialist who came from Lagos that very day to fix another gear box came n inspected the gear oil filter. he found out that it was dented and could not pass oil as expected. so, he queried why it was dented and discovered that the bottom plate too was dented ( I knew it wasn't me cos av never hit anything I cn remember) too. After investigation, it was found that while the engine seatings were being removed and replaced, a jack was placed under the gear bottom-plate by a careless apprentice. the jack was what depressed the bottom-plate which in turn depressed the filter which may have also lead to an SL1 stuck off.
So we bought a new filter too but by the time we coupled everything together, it was already late.
fast-forward today; we put everything in place and toped the oil to gauge and test drove the car. we kept driving this car from time to time till 4pm and nothing negative happened. so, that's how I paid off everyone and left with my car. though the car is still on the watch list in-case the issue resurfaces(I believe it wont).

it was nice listening to all your input on thinks.

Wow! Congratulations! Knew that performance code could be anything. Toyota and yeye codes! Assuming you had excess money, you would have rushed to replace that transmission because of a restricted filter.