₦airaland Forum

essegis:
I'm really interested in an alternate way of shipping things down from China oo, especially the ones that don't go through post office.

Freight forwarders or the good old FedEx and DHL

saint2ace:
When did spectranet change their website from www.spectranet.com.ng

I smell a rat, be careful guys

Even the attached picture has the real website

ojeysky:
Anyone with 8s of this active balancer for sale?

That's the problem with LFP, sourcing parts here is kinda tough. Our Alaba bros do not want to delve into it as it is quite new to them and they don't understand it and the market for it is low.

essegis:
I got these particular ones from Tech Direct on eBay, though I hear they are also called Big Battery. It was later I saw the ones being offered by Batteryhookup.com, almost same price as these. If I still had cash I would have bought from them also but I got my 38120 cells from them.

My only regret now is I should have coughed up some extra cash and done the gen 2 of the Nissan Leaf batteries. Those are from newer model cars with better percentage life in them. My thinking then was since I was going into a new adventure I should thread gently. If I know what I know now I for just go all in.

Funny thing, with everything I bought I haven't still much surpassed the budget if I was to go for Lead Acid batteries. So I think those guys saying its almost same price in the long run are correct. Although, when COVID-19 is over and I start acquiring all the additives like BMS and charger it will become higher than the Lead Acid budget.

This is an awesome adventure. It appears you bought different types of LFPs, are they for different project or you just want to have a feel of all of 'em? You can buy your BMS and charger and use DHL or FedEx to ship 'em if you won't mind the cost. They appear to be the only postal agency working efficiently at this Covid19 era.

essegis:
Even for top balancing I will still have to parallel them. Only difference will be a charge would be applied to them as against discharge when it's bottom balancing.

As for the cells they are rated at 66AH, 500WH. But these cells are not new and they being used initially in an electric car one does not know the condition they are coming with. Though seller sold at 65% capacity and a lot of folks have been getting that or higher.

Did you source from battery hookup? Impressive pack you've got. I prefer top balancing.

ceaser:
They are the Chinese company that Tesla have partnered with to provide them lithium for their new line of electric vehicles. This is because CATL LFPs are cheaper to manufacture than 18/65/0s and are a lot safer. BMW uses CATL cells in their e-volt lineup.

My most recent factory LFP pack acquisition are the same CATL cells straight from the same manufacturer that supplies Tesla.

I once get a seller that claimed he supplies Tesla batteries

But the truth is Tesla sources his battery from China. Even the so-called Fortune cell LFP batteries are all sourced in China and better packaged and sold at a higher price than similar batteries in China. For now, Chinese are doing well in the LFP industry. The cool thing is if you know how to source, the difference between it and lead acid battery is not that much in terms of price. But in terms of performance, they are a world apart. Truth is I regretted all the lead acid experience, poor charging, occupies more space, and generally dies before you could recover from your expenses, etc in my opinion. Anyways, lithium is the energy storage of the future, guess it'll keep getting safer, and of course cheaper, as the technology advances. But this is my goodbye to lead acid, it has been fun while it lasted.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Certainly a match made in heaven.

You have to use/own a good quality LFP bank to understand what I am talking about.

The right combination makes LFP the dream.

Lordsinger:
Goodmorning family...
I have been intending to do some major high appliance / equipments shopping such as atleast 2units of 10kg washing machines.
Now, the problem is that the products i have seen and wish to purchase has an MOQ above my purchase limit.
I tried chatting the seller on Alibaba app and he referred me to chat him up on wechat, which I dont feel exactly comfortable with because of fraud and dispute purposes.

It's my first time, I need guidance on how to purchase and ship my favs to my school post office (FUTO).
...jah bless...

Don't you think that this washing machine will be cheaper here in Nigeria especially when you factor in the shipping cost plus time it'll get here?

But if you really want to buy the type you see there, keep chatting different sellers. Alibaba hates to see buyers buying only a piece, even when they have boldly written MOQ as 1. It's funny when they ask you how many you are buying when they have MOQ as 1 and act surprised when you say one. The best way is to use a third party forwarder as they can charge you very high if you allow the seller to do the shipping. Eg one Alibaba seller charged me $269 for something that weighs 5kg.

As usual do your own research while looking for this freight forwarder agents.

ojeysky:
Post offices in my state was on lock and key until this week that they are opening 3 times a week, having not yet received a call planning to check on them by next week.

That's a little progress, the truth is we should learn to live with Covid19. The bitter pill to swallow is that Covid19 is here to stay until a vaccine or cure is gotten.

ojeysky:
50mm cable? Wow that must be quite heavy, yeah BMS still on the way without clarity on when it will arrive...... Very unpredictable time we are in.

But post offices are working, just not at full capacity. I just wish they should prioritize post. Even in NYC, the epicenter of the Covid19 pandemic in the US, the post still works efficiently. But in Nigeria, things are usually upside down

ojeysky:
Lol.....I guess this is a 200AH LFP right? 0.5C is not bad....mine is limited by 60A BMS installed in it (and my current charger)....I may be unpacking in future when my ANT BMS arrives and GK comes back alive.
What's the cable size you have from the controller to the battery?

Oh, that's 50mm² the LFP is 280AH. Oh, your ANT BMS still enroute? Cool.

bigrovar:
Congrats.. keenly watching and taking notes

Thanks a lot.

TOPAI7:
Congratulations

Thanks man.

bigrovar:
Which is true but still very very expensive, an expensive experiment which often time ends up in failure.. You know why? Lithium is very very complicated and has many component all of which have to work just right. Lithium has very little margin of error in setup.. You have to get the right cell from the right cell maker, you have to ensure the cells are well balanced, you have to get the right BMS, right charger sometimes the right inverter.. One mistake and poof all goes up in smoke.. and they often do more often than not you just don't hear that part in the songs

Many on here have dipped their hands in lithium and gotten burned badly and suffer their loses in silence.. You will hear them throwing specs like 3000 cycles at 80% dod lol.. what u don't here is the case where the bank (if you are lucky) just stop working after like a year.. They just stop..

Lithium is the future no doubt.. Just waiting for the dust to settle.. maybe when reputable chinese solar maker like episolar start doing lithium then you can take a cue that it is time to give it a look. for now I will advise wait for the second iteration before you look that way

Too late to wait. I'm enjoying LFP already and I doubt I'll ever go back to lead acid

I love watching 100A flow into em banks and get it floating before 2 hours. Even if it fails tomorrow, it's been nice rocking it.

bigrovar:
Yeah, so can AGM.. I am still 4 years away from getting LFP. I am still not sold on it yet. The tech is still too bleeding edge and expensive for now.. a 140AH pylon setup would cost close to 1.4m (at N360/$) If I spend N500k on 4 Quanta batteries I would get 400A which would serve me for 4 years of diligent use.. I can then turn the 900k to dollars and put it in a eurobond account for the life time of the Quanta (4 years) by 2024.. my dollar investment would of grown.. Lithium batteries would have gotten better and cheaper and I might still be able to buy the cheaper more efficient and more capacity lithium from the eurobond investment. Economics of Lithium doesn't work for me .. yet.

Yeah, that makes sense too. LFP of that make is still expensive. Most DIYers are mostly rocking the cheaper options.

bigrovar:
Good old, stone age tech called Flooded Acid Exide Tubular to be exact. The 90A is what the controller can push out at peak not what goes into battery. The battery usually take 60A max thanks to a carefully designed system of opportunity loads and a shallow discharge that prevents a prolong charging process. system is 24v battery capacity is 400AH

Oh I see. If LFP it can take all.

bigrovar:
at 24v not advisable. What made my situation worse the partial contact at the breaker termination point.

Out of curiosity what battery chemistry are you using that can take 90A? LFP?

ceaser:
Bro, let's give it to 'em.

They are "Chinese Premium". Work better than Chinese non premiums.

I agree, six years down the line Makeskyblue SCC is still cruising. If that is not premium quality, I don't know what is.

ceaser:
Exactly same happened with a friend's PowMr.

PowMr and MakeSkyBlue are same variants with different manufacturers.

But those two are not exactly premium like dat o, but they still do the job. Anyways I'd say they are Chinese Premium. So you work out the rest.

The premium mentioned in that statement is the Victron. Makeskyblue and PowMr are not premium, but they work. Makeskyblue has some little edge over PowMr in terms of software and setting flexibility.

spartacus11:
Please how can i get the watts of this IBM monitor only the Amp was stated

I think the monitor is also AC and not DC

Get a kill a watt plug or energy meter. That way you can measure many devices you have and get the accurate measurement. You can just log onto jiji. ng and type "Electrical Power Consumption Meter Plug Energy" you'll see different vendors selling it.

Teewhy2:
House,
Does it have to be a DC breaker that has to be between the PV and CC or can someone use an AC breaker in between.
My CC is rated PV 150 volts and 70 amps, what size of breaker can I introduce between the PV and CC. In case there is lighting during rain will the breaker protect the CC by tripping off.

Breaker won't protect your system in the event of a surge. What can protect the system is a surge arrestor.


One of the major difference between an AC and DC breaker is that DC breakers creates more arc and needs a way to extinguish this to avoid fire in your system. AC breaker, due to behavior of AC, do not have such function.

But can you use an AC breaker in the place of a DC breaker, yes you can. But just know it is recommended due to above. You can read more about the differences here, and for more on the different type of DC breaker you can check this NL link: https://www.nairaland.com/390522/solar-energy-complement-fta/438#69609424

The size of breaker is dependent on what is being protected. Check my earlier post on this here: https://www.nairaland.com/390522/solar-energy-complement-fta/567#81118537

bigrovar:
something like this happened to me recently. The breaker between my cc and battery tripped up - thus saving my house from burning down - It turns out the I undersized the cable from cc to battery. I use 25mm (a distance of about 1 meter) with current up to 90A @24v passing through the wire.. this was then compounded by what I suspect to be partial contact with the DC breaker.. wire got so hot, breaker did it's job and tripped.. All this happened in peak afternoon with a solar panels array sending about 2800w of power to the cc..

This were my respect for Victron went to a whole new level.. My victron charge controller stood there.. without a battery to send all that energy too, it just switched to the higher curve of the MPPT and switched to float..In fact it took a long time to realise what was happening because controller continued working like nothing happened.. I had to turn off the breaker from the pv to cc and then changed removed the bad wire, upgraded it to 35mm and turned the system back on.. Victron charge controller resumed charging.. The trip from the battery gave no problem at all.

That is why I love premium product. The Makeskyblue will just go blank in the event that the battery is missing in action, and continue when battery comes back

Ok, let's hope they ascertain the cause of death before "receiving the body" to forestall some calamitous beginning for the mourners and others that will attend the burial.

terrymason:
Have seen in various videos and setup where breakers/Fuse are put between panels and charger controller (Which is highly compulsory), but breakers in between batteries and charger controller are scary to me. Let say theirs a surge and the breaker between your battery and Cc tripped off and the one between the panel and CC is still on, what do you think will be the outcome of the CC in use.. ?

What's your input DIY Guru's, newbie and the house....

You can turn off some SCC from battery at blazing sun with no issues. Though the same can't be said of some system. I'll say if your SCC doesn't have that feature, jejely don't try to add a breaker between battery and SCC.

sureboykris:
Thanks . is it possible to get pure sinewave inverters are hybrid and 2.4kva .

Of course, just check.

earthrealm:
just throwing this out here.
i have a standalone 5kva stabilizer, used for the sumo .recently, observed that the stab isnt functioning ok, it simply spits out whatever voltage it receives, so 150v goes in, 150v comes out, however anything below 120v, doesnt go through, opened it and poked around, didnt see any obvious failed component. took it to a repair man, it has been with him for wks, no dice either..........does anyone have experience with this type of stabilizer fault?. its 5kva voltronic stab

Looks like a control issue. Can't really say that's the problem. How about trying another repair person if this one has exhausted his knowledge?

Fabulouzjoseph:
TRASH
BILL GATES IS ONE OF THE RICHEST MEN IN THE WORLD A MAN WHO IS RICHER THAN SOME COUNTRIES.
WHAT THEN DOES HE STAND TO GAIN FROM PEOPLE'S DEATH.

Conspiracy theorist mostly reason with their añus. Some of them still believe the earth is flat and 5G is the cause of coronavirus. There is no way to get it into their thick skulls that these are falsehood that they parade as facts.

sureboykris:
Good day.. Please I've 2units 200 amp batteries.
I need inverters. Maybe 2.4kva... I've been seeing charge controller om nairaland. Don't know where to get one or if it's necessary since I don't have solar panels.
Where can I get good products at good price.
Someone should please help

You don't need solar charge controllers if you don't plan to incorporate solar panels into your system. There are so many inverters in the market, just get one that is pure sinewave to avoid issues with modified sinewave inverters. Makes such as Luminous, Sukam, Microtek, etc are fairly ok and mostly pure sinewave. Well done.

olaolu11:
Thanks. I already opened the inverter and checked even before you suggested it. I went back again as advised but did not find any sign still.


Now I am stuck with no light, no TV, for God knows how long.
How good is this suoer 1000v inverter? And is it modified or pure sine wave. I am thinking of getting that and using pending the time I will get 24v inverter for I have been thinking towards 24v inverter before this fiasco happened.

Check here for some info on Suoer

https://www.nairaland.com/684167/inverter-users-lets-experience/87#73868875

olaolu11:
I don open the inverter tey tey to check( shebi im no work. Las las im go kuku kpeme, abi?). The the fuses are intact, the trippler is intact, i cant seem to observe any burnt ic or diode, and the normal smell of burns is absent. Have tested severally is but same thing is happening. The wires are off the battery.

Thanks. By disconnect, you mean remove the wire from point where it started IN the inverter or just DISCONNECT the positve wire from its terminal point where it joins/ connects the battery. I hope you understand my point.
Ie the red wire has two points(ends) One point starts from inside inverter, and(the other point) ends by joining the battery. Am i to disconnect the point starting fom inside the inverter and wait 15 secs?
Then should it be done while connected to battery ie while it is live. No worry about shock, i don get my fair share. Na 10 years i be when electric current baptize me.

What he means the OP means is to simply disconnect and reconnect battery terminal (from outside the inverter) and try to power it up.

If you do this and there is still issue, and you've checked and no visible burn or damage to components, it then means that the board has failed or to be precise a component in the board has failed. There are two options, either buy a brand new board (which accounts to about 60% or more of the cost of the inverter) or try to give it to a knowledgeable inverter repair person (definitely not a stabilizer repair man ).


[img]https://media1./images/bdf71e337ee4bae42194a1fdd25c9576/tenor.gif[/img]

PSA: GTB USD to Dollar card rate today is N390.79/$

olaolu11:
Pix 3 is idle(power on) light while pix 4 is (eco)load on. Borh still works as it should if i place the terminals on battery or gen. So if load on light still comes on, why is it not powering load? Im thinking that if the load on light still come on, it should power load but it is not doing that.

Check the mosfets and the relay driver IC. You'll have to open the inverter and remove the powerboard. Look for physical damage on the mosfets (check the mosfets sideways to see if there is any damage). Then check all the diodes and resistors. Check underneath the board to see if there is any sign of burn. It means the board is seeing power but cannot invert. That is a sign of failure of one of the multiple components that make up the board. Next time don't attempt to load up to 80% of the rated capacity of any of these non-premium Indian and Chinese brands. Loading over 100% is just a sure recipe to catastrophic failure.

ojeysky:
My 51" LED does about 35w at medium energy saving mode

That's why the "some" is there

ojeysky:
Indeed, found it interesting as well, my thermocool about 70w when condenser is fully operational and it's not as big as the lg.
@Juo how much did you get this?

70w is energy efficient too. At 100% blast, that is almost the same as running some 55" LED tv.