₦airaland Forum

A Nigerian brand - Yes

I believe they partner with a company in China called RENEPV

I hope that's not the case after four years plus it's a good thing we made our research in the field to know these things.

Looks like it's time to shift ground

Oshomo12:
After like 4years of use, check flame production. You will be deadly shocked!

Flames is a none existence brand(i want to believe it is/was a label in naija)

The last time we tried partnership with Yingli, the but charge didn't take us serious .... So we took our business to Flames as a budgetary panel but these days ....

The name plates stats we observed are between 2.93 to 3.1 of name plate and it's quite not that fantastic to me.

In our recent install the Canadian PERC cells beat flames Half-cut cells which were suppose to be more efficient over conventional PERC cells...

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Thank you for the honorable mention my Oga.

Canadian Solar really fire - I remember recounting here how my Canadian Solar produced more cumulative energy in one year of use than my Flames had produced in 2 years and they were sitting side by side on thesame roof.

Canadian solar have never dissappointed in any way in all my years using them.

In the last few months I have been playing with Yingli as well due to a more affordable price point to customer. I can attest that they do very well too - daily harvest 4 times nameplate on a regular basis.

Nicely explained, thanks for the clarification.

I will look into getting one soon

We noticed many electrician have bad earthing with leakage in the wake of their works

NiyiOmoIyunade:
This particular UniT costs between 65k and 90k depending on your source - the premium ones go over 200k easily and yet all you are trying to measure is resistance between rod and earth.

Fluke have an excellent article explaining the difference between accuracy and precision for measurement instruments

A good way to look at precision is the arrangement of holes/points of impact on a shooting-range target. Assume that your rifle is aimed at the bullseye and you shoot from the same position each time.

If the holes are tightly packed but outside the bullseye, the rifle (or shooter) can be considered precise but not accurate.

If the holes are tightly packed within the bullseye, the rifle is both accurate and precise.

If the holes are spread randomly all over the target, then the rifle (or shooter) is neither accurate nor precise.

In some circumstances, precision, or repeatability, is more important than accuracy. If measurements are repeatable, it’s possible to determine an error pattern and compensate for it.

In my case I chose precision (repeatability) over accuracy because I have a reference measurement to validate against - the meter itself boasts a + or - 2% metric

Oh! Have no idea

kiekie1:
He already follows him here on Nairaland

Nice contribution, being toying with the idea of using multimeter but no way around it except using normal L-P.E or N-P.E
But
How much will this earth tester cost?

I used it during one of Schneiders training but theirs is more fancier than the displayed one here.

NiyiOmoIyunade:
It must be connected to a conductor with very low resistance/impedance to ground.

Earth rod, wire mesh, earth mat, buried copper wire, building metal reinforcement (ufer ground), water main (water corporation pipe), metallic frame used to mount water tank are all possibilities either as stand alone or a mix.

Just know that if you use a public utility like water pipe, you may be executing your neighbor a few houses away or some random kid playing around if you have a fault diverted to earth. Of course it can't be traced back to you and you yourself may not even know you electrocuted anybody so no biggie I guess

The goal is to measure resistance 5ohms or less after your earthing is done (some say 25ohms) and be able to maintain this value over the years.

If you don't have a good earth point for faults to go to, please do not install an SPD as you would just be making things worse.

Driving a few rods some 8 to 20 feet down can be done at low cost and small footprint - you do not really need those massive pits that our people like to dig - use a coupler and drive down two or three rods coupled together in one spot, move away thrice the depth of the coupled rods and sink another set and be done with it - judicious choice of soil site for earth rod or soil treatment with enhancement material will ensure permanent results.

Above all measure else you can never tell how good or bad your earth is.

See below a customer with poor earth before and after driving rods down and we did the extra rods in his flower bed without disrupting anything - two coupled rods in the house and another two coupled rods outside.

We met the facility's own earth at 44ohms, we joined it to the estate earth point which was reading 51ohms to get a combined 22ohms - this convinced the customer the benefit of multiple points bonded together - then we drove down additional rods as I explained above and got 5.3ohms - this is in Lekki sandy soil, no treatment or enhancement as the man did not want to ruin his lovely garden so did not permit to dig a hole or even use an auger

Contact Mr Chris of AWPS, I believe he will be of help.

hardywaltz:
Please where can I buy Deye 8kva inverter here in Nigeria?

Good morning,

Just my opinion but looking at your setup, which I guess is kinda mini
Having that load run off battery will equal a bigger bank or a shorter energy storage usage.

Better running them in the day time when the sun is up.

Growatt 3000W hybrid inverter with remote monitoring feature will be your best bet

Coupled with Pylontech for direct comm with battery and having other accessories installed alongside.

And what size of panels do you have already installed

We'd like to discuss better with you for installation.

bizzle2:
Guys , please recommend a very seasoned/sound installer in Lagos.
I am currently in need of an inverter setup for a 2 bed apartment.
estimated load is at 1kw - 1.2kw.

Apartment came with a few panels, and some cheap inverter installed, will be utilizing installed panels but primary charging source will be PHCN supply.

Looking at having Li ion batteries , with a Hybrid inverter and other necessary equipment for an efficient system.

your advice , recommendations (choice and capacity of equipment ) and referrals (installer) will be greatly appreciated.

Thank You.

Onward we move, pray the new month favours us all and bring newer and brighter possibilities of breakthrough.

Happy new month

Would consider this next time but considering the location space, the present arrangement done we noticed this too can work without any issue

Thanks for the insight.

ojeysky:
Looks good. I don't know the internals of Felicity batteries but I normally prefer the battery setup to be flat (sitting on its bottom).

Thanks for your input much appreciated

1. The cables provided were short and funny enough clients said no 35mm available in town.

2. This was our plan initially but the project cost rose up and we had to adapt to the new reality

3. Those are 24V 200Ah felicity batteries approximately 5KWh in theory.

[quote author=NiyiOmoIyunade post=100341183][/quote]

Good evening everyone,

Trust our week is up to a great start.

Sometimes last week, a member of this forum "sintolord" reached out to us for installation of his equipment bought over time.

We discussed at length what's extra he needs to buy and whatnot.

Over the weekend we had his system up and running to take him offgrid and run his heavy appliances on solar via his 3.2KW felicity hybrid Inverter and batteries with a 3.2KWp of PV.

I'd give him a kudos for a well thought out design, his research paid off.

Curious to know about this night episode

BigSarah:
Okay... Reminds of a Saturday night live episode.

Pylontech US2000 2.4KWh - NGN 630,000
BYD LVL 15.4 Premium - 4,469,000

adrusa:
I actually know what I need and all these questions are not necessary. Just give me an idea of what you have.

The signature just under this message or kindly click through my profile page to see signature on profile.

AkoEja:
Hi, thanks. I cannot find your contact, where is the bio you referred to?

Both PV and NEPA input

NB: earthing a PV frame is not lighting protection, but it does have it's advantage too.

An SPD is the one of the best way to protect your investment .... Both AC & DC

Or simply isolate both poles of input to your system, if SPD no dey at every instance it wants to rain.

Peterlove11:
For the lightening/thunderstorm, is the problem only from the pv side or both pv and ac input. Because I lost an inverter to thunderstorm recently

Please note that my method is crude, cost effective and efficient too, designed by me and not a method abide by any intl. Code

Rails and panels come anodized - so no conductivity

To penetrate to the conducting part, fairly sand off the surface of connections and link together from there using a good lug or buy those clip like things that bits into the rail or panel to do above mentioned.

peterpeteru:
Many Thanks Boss!
By 'default' design, is there conductivity between the panel and the frame?
If no, kindly suggest how this can be achieved.
More blessings!

You can kindly check my bio for contact to further discuss this at your convenience

adrusa:
If I can get any of them for good prices. The office is paying, so there is a little latitude here.

Hey brother
I can get you a sweet deal on your battery storage using like six 2.4KWh Pylontech or if BYD LVL premium 15.4KWh, if interested we can juxtapose what best and maybe you can do it modularly as cash comes in. Contact is in bio.

Saipro can link you up with many if your victron equipment accessories but only that fails I can be of help too

AkoEja:
I am looking to purchase/upgrade to a Lithium battery pack preferably Pylontech or Weco.
BYD is preferred actually but it's a bit more expensive.
Between 7.5 to 12.5 kwh depending on price
The battery will go with a Victron multiplex(already owned)
Will also need a good MPPT charge controller 60 A and Victron colour control GX
Can anyone supply this?
Need this asap
I am based in Amuwo , Lagos

A well buried 6ft copper earth rod will do just what you need for you but ensure that

1. There is conductivity between panels and frame

2. The third cable in stealth of PV cable isn't used but say a okay guage flex cable

3. All Earth can terminate at your new earth point now.

4. If cash dey SPD won't be a bad idea.

Cheers

peterpeteru:
Good day Guru. He said the '3rd' wire in the solar cable must be connected to a thunder arresting device which he would install for me for 250k.

Please, is he right?
Can the copper earth rod device be used instead because I can't afford 250k, besides the building is a bungalow?
Can he connect the earth wire in the solar cable and inverter to the copper earth rod?

Kindly advise.
Thanks in anticipation.

My knowledge here is a bit limited but
If thunder struck at some distance it leaves the air charge and that dissipate to surrounding environment current carrying conductors, which will induct them with the voltage of the ligthing .... Say like a 1kV

On getting to your panels cable they will be charged likewise your panel frames but because the frames are say earthed...... The voltage is quickly discharge to earth but as for your panel cables the induction continues but say for your SPD with a Uc- clamping voltage close to your CC voltage .. It shunts the excess voltage to the earth and all is well.

Problem is if your earth is bad .... Then. You might be in soup

These are my own opinion

eleojo23:
Sequel to the question above, can thunder affect a setup with a separate wiring that is not connected to the grid (NEPA) wiring? That is, the setup has just a few points for powering appliances, runs purely on solar without any contact with the main house wiring.
Will thunder still affect it?

I used to think that thunder/lightening strike passes through the wires coming from the grid (NEPA) pole so if the setup has no contact with that, it is safe from thunder wahala? Is my thinking correct?

cc: Ojeysky, saipro, valto, ceaser

If there is no space between the roof and the panels and the panels are sitting on roof directly then when the panels heat up their production will drop because their isn't any air pocket to either cool it isolate the heat from the pan to the panels and vice versa.

I am not confident of a percentage to give but it's not so ideal sha

IYGEAL:
Does this describe using binding wires to tie the panels on the roof? To what extent does it make the panels inefficient?

Na so my panels dey o

Okay, what inverter type is the office using and what capacity?

adrusa:
If I can get any of them for good prices. The office is paying, so there is a little latitude here.

If you can get the local alunminum used for Windows .... Either lockstyle or interlock and use to raise your panels up a bit ...

Temperature may be one of its bane here ... You might just get higher power if you try the above procedures.

Solarrookie:
Thank you so much King!

1. I called them tier 4 because they are chinese variants rebranded as tier 2. They came cheap so I didn't bother to return them to the seller.

2. You are right. It gets lukewarm whenever current hits 16A.

3. I think I failed here �. I slapped em on the roof lol.

Needed electricity so badly. Welder told me to pay 40,000 for angle irons.

Battery is "Fullriver 200ah lead acid".

I appreciate you Sir!

Lets start from the top

1. You use a tier 4 panel-why call it that is beyond me but you have your reasons

But you should expect the four panels to work like 2 good panels with each contributing 25% of its nameplate

2. Charge controller and cable looks just fine, highest those cable with do is get lukewarm in temp.

3. All you have done looks okay, panel to roof space is okay as long as you not slapping them panels to the roof

My advice, don't waste money, if you very sure your panel is clean, then know that your panels are the bad eggs ... I have similar setup one time but with 2 x 150W and highest from it is 17A

So manage it or upgrade, getting MPPT may give you a little gain but you didn't mention your battery.

I leave this to others to take up from here

Solarrookie:
I recently moved into a remote area and got some tier 4 600 watts mono panels for myself (150 x 4) for a 12 volts setup. I also got a 50 amps PWM charge controller and 10m cable dual core cable.

What inverter do you use?

I would have recommended pylontech Or BYD if you can afford it.... Communication and seamless integration is so much easier with them

adrusa:
Hello, I need some pre-packaged 48v lithium batteries for my office. Shouldn't be too expensive. Preferably Felicity, but I will consider other ones. Please quote me if you have.

This is mostly a Grid-tie kinda solution

And it's tagged commercial and industrial solar solution or C&I

It works on principle of energy usage reduction.
If grid is available and solar inputs its power grid consumption reduces likewise generator fuel consumption all controlled through an intelligent controller that ensure generator works above minimum 30% requirement.

It's a day time usage arrangement,

FYI- it's batteryless and for less than 1MW it's not up to a billion as expressed in an earlier comment.

We offer this solution to companies too.

All nah foreign investors moni.
You can look up PPA - power purchase agreements

ceaser:
https://brandnewsday.com/2021/03/22/nigerian-breweries-commissions-new-solar-plant-at-its-ibadan-factory/

So I wonder, is this also gonna power their heavy duty appliances (all those bottling machines and conveyor belts that use energy hogging three-phase AC motors) or will that be only available for use during sun-hours? I don't know if their assembled battery pack will allow that much demands.

Good morning everyone, Trust we all had a splendid weekend

To put in a word on the ongoing authenticity of Canadian posted earlier.

I have to be honest with some fact .... Based on evidence of that sticker

This i conclude as I have being in market to select things in person before

1. The displayed Canadian panel is doubtful
The edges are not consistent with its cut also the air pockets are dead give away.

Twice have I being nearly push to buy such unauthentic products

2. He said something of truth though, they bring in dirt cheap panels of a particular brand .... Looks good on the outside but best to shieve through your product yourself to prevent getting those with corroded MC4 connector.

With these I'd say buyer should proceed with caution and to ensure everyone happiness - buyer and seller .... See what you buying ...

Know this " if your gut says it's not real, then it's not"

Stay safe and have a wonderful week ahead.

You welcome

davidolarewaju2:
Thank you sir

In other to get contribution from others and me here.

Kindly provide

1. The critical loads or appliances Iisted below their power consumption in wattage [W] or noting the nameplate sticker on product

2. Preferred hours during the day and night you want each appliance above to work for you [be well detailed here]

E.g fridge -100W
4 hours in day usage and 3 hours of night usage et.cetera

3. Lastly how many hours of Grid do you have, in case you plan on using it together

Biafran4life:
Greatings to all,I was referred to this thread from investment thread.Pls I want to know what it will require to have solar energy that can carry at least one big fridge,,tv sets,3fans and lightens.Pls quality and reliable materials that will last before change/maintenance
Thanks all

Thanks for the mention brother.

Trust you are good?

IYGEAL:
Chief welcome here. @Olopan of Rendezvous solar will give you a good quote and subsequent services.

Canadian
Jinko. - Local top range products
JA
Jager by risen


Flames
SMS
Tiger. - Mid range products
Kartel
Felicity

Others can add theirs too .... Jiji should be a good place to start for price survey or local sellers here.

I am not sure I can get a sweet deal for you here
Your pocket and a survey of names above will point you to choosing right.
Cheers

davidolarewaju2:
Good day house
I want to buy panels (300w), which solar panels brands should I go for?

Thank you

The name of the fish you caught is a "snakehead"
It has sharp teeth and fairly tough scales ... I caught mine in osogbo couple of years back and its a fresh water fish

Still looking to hunt for it in the future ...the meat is tough and white ..such a delight.

Light78:
I was walking around my compound yesterday, and I saw a fish jumped out of the marsh to a drier side of the compound. It was struggling to swim back into the marsh, but I caught it with a basket.

What is the name of this fish?