₦airaland Forum

mctfopt:
How much?

quest4s:
Thanks
The battery is barely 3months old
Started suspecting it from when I got it thought it was because of slight increase in load. It deteriorated gradually till it was very noticeable yesterday

mctfopt:
There are many of them in PlayStore. Just wondering which one it is that is shown in the screenshot

mctfopt:
What's the name of this digital compass?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Hmmmmmm

I was not aware any advantage could be gained by a NE installation when the location is on the equator.

I do South, then West then East in that order of preference. I will do more research to understand what you have done.

ojesymsym:
Using the East facing DSTV dish as reference, I am wondering why you choose to use the NE direction for your solar installation when it seems the Southern part of the roof was available?

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Yes all DC sources for charge and discharge connected at only one point but not like the diagram you drew.

You want currents moving in and out of battery to pass through exactly thesame number of hoops.

Once your connections are becoming numerous best to use a busbar. One can easily DIY a busbar from a suitably thick earth bar drilled and cut to spec then mounted in an electrical box. At max currents in the system you want busbar to stay cool at best or slightly warm at worst.

saint2ace:
Quick question, will the introduction of a busbar make this system more balanced and efficient?
Scenerio being a split in panels to 2pv array if 2s2p each, one connected to the own charger controller, and the second connected to the hybrid inverter to achieve more PV gains since CC is pwm on both external and hybrid (spec sheet should clarify).

Secondly, creating 2 banks of 2s1p and connecting to the busbar.

Lastly, all connections terminatiing on the busbar, drawing feed from the busbar too.

As stated above will this create a more balanced and efficient system, or there will be too much power loss.

I await responses

NiyiOmoIyunade:
I want to clarify that for battery connections, all DC utilities must connect to the same battery terminals. All charging sources (grid, gen and solar) and all loads must connect to thesame terminals.

One may use a busbar to allow multiple DC utilities connect to the same battery terminal.

dollarnaira:
8 panels of 330w each.
Cc pwm 60A
200amp × 4 = 24v
Inverter hybrid mercury 24v, 2kva

Pls how should connect the above
Pls pls pls.

ceaser:
2s2p configuration panel for 48v system? How feasible is that? Or are the panels 500 watts each?

ceaser:
Is that 4s3p config for the 48v system?

Trippledots:
Can you clean large panel install of between 80- 130panels?

If yes, hit my signature lets talk pls

wilmaria14:
ok

ojeysky:
I used the lowest voltage and maximum current to determine the maximum power that the device will consume. So depending on the TV settings at 100v it could require up to 2.1A but the current will be lower at higher voltage. In naija case where we use 230v(220-240) even if all the TV features are utilized 100%, the current won't be up to 1A thereby keeping power within the 210w max

ojeysky:
For the first, operating range is wider hence I think the 2.1A is probably the maximum current at the least voltage of 100v which makes it 210w max

For the second 135w I expect is the maximum and 75w is the regular (typical).

Disclaimer: wait to get confirmation from the gurus on this, I may be wrong

abbeymighty:
Please I need a competent installer for solar panel installation around ikorodu.

odimbannamdi:
Clearance sale/Black Friday Deal.

Brand new Suoer 2000w inverter with 20a charging function.

I bought it for my personal use, but i never got to use it.

Idle current is 0.4a

Free gift: Brand new 20a Sollatek surge protector, ideal in protecting your fridge and ACs against power surges.

Depending on your location, items can be brought down to a popular bustop for you, at no extra charge.

Price: 18,000, non-negotiable

donblanco:
Thank you so much for this,its really helpful. Pls can u recommend any good brand of mppt cc and panel . Thanks once again.

donblanco:
Hi the Gurus in the house,please i need your guide with the following,i use a 200ah tubular battery with a 1000w msw standalone inverter and a standalone charger while my watt load is approximately 200w max between 8am-4pm(i do have phcn light during the day so its not like i drain the battery i never go below 12.1v) but drop to about 60watts load in the evening. I would like to know what number of solar panels and in what order should i get to charge my battery fully while also running my gadgets 8am-4pm and also the range of charge controller to use keeping in mind that additions can be made in future to the panels. I will really be grateful for your inputs and also suggestions on types to get. Thanks

SolnergyPower:
LOCALLY MADE!!!

24V 130AH Lithium Pack!

Maximum charge current is 25A
Maximum discharge current is 50A
Maximum voltage is 29.4V
Cycle voltage is 28.5

Call/WhatsApp: +234 814 212 6416

NiyiOmoIyunade:
The more I look into the Pylon BMS workings, the more I am convinced that the manufacturer knows their battery.

The charge and discharge current logic are hardcoded in the BMS such that as the battery fills up it automatically throttles charge current and as you drain the battery towards 80% and beyond it begins to throttle discharge current too - this is inspite of the advertised spec sheet.

They guarantee 6,000 cycles at 80% DoD and with 80% capacity left after those 6,000 cycles. In fact they imply that the electronics and control mechanisms would fail well before the actual battery cells fail.

My batteries sit in a temperature controlled room set for 25°C - while charging at up to 0.5C I can see cell temperatures get to 30°C or slightly higher - charging at 0.3C the temperature sits at 28°C max. The battery is certified for -10°C to 50°C or thereabouts - I needed no soothsayer to tell me to use the lower charge rate that kept the batteries cooler.

When I complained about one module falling behind, we were yet to install AC in the power room - the troubled module reached 35°C when others were still at 32°C or so - all well within the operating range but for the USD expended for acquisition I was not ready to take any risks.

Most folks would use their batteries at factory defaults happily unaware of the goings on in the battery and this would suffice.

See me now trying to force the BMS to request 500A from Victron inverter and MPPTs meanwhile I had set my max current limit in the Victron GX device at 350A. I just want to have the battery run at full throttle even if I will slow down later. Now sue me

PS: The actual recommended charge voltage range is between 52.5v and 53.2v - there are 15 cells in series per module so 3.5 to 3.55v per cell. The BMS will cut out for overvoltage at 54v so very little headroom for errors or spikes - with this you see how paranoid the BMS is. Battery top balancing will start once any cell reaches about 3.48v

I use 52.5v as charge voltage and plan to go back down to 52v just as soon as the new modules settle in fully. The goal is to cycle between 25% and 98% on a regular basis

ceaser:
Got it for 130k at a walk in shop. Although I later saw it on Konga and Jumia dem for 107k or thereabout, but I think I'm more comfortable with the walk in shop in case item gives issue during warranty period. Besides it has been my go to store for appliances.

You'll be careful with the remote control though. It is thin and it broke in half when one of the kids mistakenly knelt on it while it was on the bed. The "volume up" button stopped working but I still use the phone app for full control for now while waiting for replacement remote from the store.

Also the android app version is kit kat, I think. Then I have had to do a full TV reset twice since one month use. It seems the ROM is low, so after a while of use, the "source" option (TV, DLNA, AV, HDMI) will not display and only the TV reinstall/reset restores normalcy.

Another downside is that it has no CI card, as much as I would love it to have that. But it was a good choice I made after having a bitter experience with one seller at the NL TV section who sent me one disappointing LG product which showed signs that it has been opened and worked on (repaired). I hope that would be the only time I would have to consider used TVs from Alaba.

But I have to agree, the screen pictures are beautiful and images come out with very punchy colours that threaten to rival my Hisense and LG. That's even for the fact that the TV (43 inch) is HDTV. I understand that the 55 inch (or is it 60 inch now) is UHD.

Also the bevel are so thin, lovely thin with an almost edge to edge screen expanse. Only the lower edge where the product name is has about 5cm bevel.

It also has Bluetooth on board which claims to connect to many BT hardwares including keyboards and mouse. I connect to my earphone, one of the reasons I went with that Alaba TV source in the first instance. It's for the bedroom and I wouldn't love to intrude wifey's sleep while watching TV.

ceaser:
I have noticed it with an unknown brand with brightness and the wattmeter confirm my experiment, likewise a older generation of LG tv too reduce consumption but both didn't drop significantly like those with ECO setting did.



@bolded. I haven't really noticed that. I have tried out a number of TVs to know that "brightness" setting is quite different from "backlight" settings. The former alters the pixel intensity and has no bearing on power consumption while the latter alters (dims or brightens) the TV's source of light (LEDs) and effectively doing so changes the consumption.



Recently got a 43 inches Infinix Smart TV that consumes 77w at 100 percent backlight full blast and 27 watts at 5% backlight setting. A teeny bit below some popular brands like Sony and the Hisense, but impressive performance for Infinix brand.

What's is the price range of the Infinix Smart TV?

earthrealm:
Lolz, used an old price/price georged got them then.



Am interested in this as well, is there a way i can use my old 4kva mustpower to charge lifepo4 batt bank, whats the trick?.
My cc is the cheap makeskyblue rival, that has lithuim profile listed