₦airaland Forum

odimbannamdi:
Clearance sale/Black Friday Deal.

Brand new Suoer 2000w inverter with 20a charging function.

I bought it for my personal use, but i never got to use it.

Idle current is 0.4a

Free gift: Brand new 20a Sollatek surge protector, ideal in protecting your fridge and ACs against power surges.

Depending on your location, items can be brought down to a popular bustop for you, at no extra charge.

Price: 18,000, non-negotiable

donblanco:
Thank you so much for this,its really helpful. Pls can u recommend any good brand of mppt cc and panel . Thanks once again.

donblanco:
Hi the Gurus in the house,please i need your guide with the following,i use a 200ah tubular battery with a 1000w msw standalone inverter and a standalone charger while my watt load is approximately 200w max between 8am-4pm(i do have phcn light during the day so its not like i drain the battery i never go below 12.1v) but drop to about 60watts load in the evening. I would like to know what number of solar panels and in what order should i get to charge my battery fully while also running my gadgets 8am-4pm and also the range of charge controller to use keeping in mind that additions can be made in future to the panels. I will really be grateful for your inputs and also suggestions on types to get. Thanks

SolnergyPower:
LOCALLY MADE!!!

24V 130AH Lithium Pack!

Maximum charge current is 25A
Maximum discharge current is 50A
Maximum voltage is 29.4V
Cycle voltage is 28.5

Call/WhatsApp: +234 814 212 6416

NiyiOmoIyunade:
The more I look into the Pylon BMS workings, the more I am convinced that the manufacturer knows their battery.

The charge and discharge current logic are hardcoded in the BMS such that as the battery fills up it automatically throttles charge current and as you drain the battery towards 80% and beyond it begins to throttle discharge current too - this is inspite of the advertised spec sheet.

They guarantee 6,000 cycles at 80% DoD and with 80% capacity left after those 6,000 cycles. In fact they imply that the electronics and control mechanisms would fail well before the actual battery cells fail.

My batteries sit in a temperature controlled room set for 25°C - while charging at up to 0.5C I can see cell temperatures get to 30°C or slightly higher - charging at 0.3C the temperature sits at 28°C max. The battery is certified for -10°C to 50°C or thereabouts - I needed no soothsayer to tell me to use the lower charge rate that kept the batteries cooler.

When I complained about one module falling behind, we were yet to install AC in the power room - the troubled module reached 35°C when others were still at 32°C or so - all well within the operating range but for the USD expended for acquisition I was not ready to take any risks.

Most folks would use their batteries at factory defaults happily unaware of the goings on in the battery and this would suffice.

See me now trying to force the BMS to request 500A from Victron inverter and MPPTs meanwhile I had set my max current limit in the Victron GX device at 350A. I just want to have the battery run at full throttle even if I will slow down later. Now sue me

PS: The actual recommended charge voltage range is between 52.5v and 53.2v - there are 15 cells in series per module so 3.5 to 3.55v per cell. The BMS will cut out for overvoltage at 54v so very little headroom for errors or spikes - with this you see how paranoid the BMS is. Battery top balancing will start once any cell reaches about 3.48v

I use 52.5v as charge voltage and plan to go back down to 52v just as soon as the new modules settle in fully. The goal is to cycle between 25% and 98% on a regular basis

ceaser:
Got it for 130k at a walk in shop. Although I later saw it on Konga and Jumia dem for 107k or thereabout, but I think I'm more comfortable with the walk in shop in case item gives issue during warranty period. Besides it has been my go to store for appliances.

You'll be careful with the remote control though. It is thin and it broke in half when one of the kids mistakenly knelt on it while it was on the bed. The "volume up" button stopped working but I still use the phone app for full control for now while waiting for replacement remote from the store.

Also the android app version is kit kat, I think. Then I have had to do a full TV reset twice since one month use. It seems the ROM is low, so after a while of use, the "source" option (TV, DLNA, AV, HDMI) will not display and only the TV reinstall/reset restores normalcy.

Another downside is that it has no CI card, as much as I would love it to have that. But it was a good choice I made after having a bitter experience with one seller at the NL TV section who sent me one disappointing LG product which showed signs that it has been opened and worked on (repaired). I hope that would be the only time I would have to consider used TVs from Alaba.

But I have to agree, the screen pictures are beautiful and images come out with very punchy colours that threaten to rival my Hisense and LG. That's even for the fact that the TV (43 inch) is HDTV. I understand that the 55 inch (or is it 60 inch now) is UHD.

Also the bevel are so thin, lovely thin with an almost edge to edge screen expanse. Only the lower edge where the product name is has about 5cm bevel.

It also has Bluetooth on board which claims to connect to many BT hardwares including keyboards and mouse. I connect to my earphone, one of the reasons I went with that Alaba TV source in the first instance. It's for the bedroom and I wouldn't love to intrude wifey's sleep while watching TV.

ceaser:
I have noticed it with an unknown brand with brightness and the wattmeter confirm my experiment, likewise a older generation of LG tv too reduce consumption but both didn't drop significantly like those with ECO setting did.



@bolded. I haven't really noticed that. I have tried out a number of TVs to know that "brightness" setting is quite different from "backlight" settings. The former alters the pixel intensity and has no bearing on power consumption while the latter alters (dims or brightens) the TV's source of light (LEDs) and effectively doing so changes the consumption.



Recently got a 43 inches Infinix Smart TV that consumes 77w at 100 percent backlight full blast and 27 watts at 5% backlight setting. A teeny bit below some popular brands like Sony and the Hisense, but impressive performance for Infinix brand.

What's is the price range of the Infinix Smart TV?

earthrealm:
Lolz, used an old price/price georged got them then.



Am interested in this as well, is there a way i can use my old 4kva mustpower to charge lifepo4 batt bank, whats the trick?.
My cc is the cheap makeskyblue rival, that has lithuim profile listed

cretin:
i dont have an intelligent invertee, my inverter is YIY 48v 5kva with batt type selector, but no lithium profile listed.
is there a way, i could use it for the lifepo4 battery?

also if i have more funds when is the latest time, i could buy a 2nd 48v 200ah felicity bank to add to the first bank. do i need to use a bms to parallel them?.

@ojeysky, so members here got 120ah from the felicity, thats pretty poor. has anybody opened it, what kind of cells are inside? name and capacity

zeestone99:
Yes smart tv

earthrealm:
24 x 130k is 3.1m for a 48v 2000ah bank.
Incountry price of 48v 600ah lifepo4 bank is Abt 3m.
40 x 12v 200ah quanta = 48v 2000ah is abt 6m
I would take a 48v 2000ah lead acid bank over 48v 600ah lithuims.

Wish the batts came in 6v 2000ah, would be a lot easier and affordable for a 48v bank owner.
I wonder the price of 2v 1000ah

cretin:
am a silent follower of this forum

pls help me choose btw these options.

1. 4 units 12v 200ah quanta /thundervolt smf batts .about 600k
2. 48v 200ah felicity lifepo4 bank, abt 700k

3.4units 12v flooded tubular batts, i see so many makes with slight diff in prices, is anyone better than the others?. genus, mecury, luminous etc about 500k

Abdomox:
This is to say many thanks to those handling this thread, you've made solar energy easy to understand. Also permit me to appreciate a nairalander I met on this thread.

We discussed and he earned my trust with his high level of professionalism. Very hardworking and trustworthy.

His handle is @olopan

Once again, God bless you all for keeping the knowledge sharing alive!!!

zeestone99:
Mine can do 70w,50, and 30w depending on the level of eco mode chosen. Brand is Samsung.

eleojo23:
How efficient is the ECO mode on TVs? Does it really reduce power consumption?

painite02:
What will be the cost of 2kw on an average. And can you install in Abuja

mimimiles93:
You don't get the message. Trump said that COVID-19 is a hoax. Now the hoax can't make him breathe.

en0uwem:
I want to do a small setup for my shop/store.
I'll only be using led bulbs and maybe a single fan.

What type of inverter and battery should I buy for this? Thank you

Trippledots:
Bolded should be in watt hours to make sense or volt/amphr

Brando16:
I am interested. How do I get more info pls

icjunior:
Okay... proceed please

Brando16:
Good day people,
I’m brand spanking new on this thread and I need advice/direction on a backup power system.
Currently I have a modified 2kva Prag inverter and 2 pcs of 200AH gel batteries that have gotten to their end of life (don’t back up for more than 30mins anymore).
Because of the recent increase in power tariffs across the country, I am looking towards an inverter system that would help to bring down my power cost by getting a hybrid inverter that places priority on solar before the grid.
To achieve what I stated above, I recently acquired 4 pcs of of 250w panel (1000w),
With the panels I intend to buy a hybrid inverter (looking at Schneider Electric Homaya 1.5KVA Solar Hybrid Inverter) and 2 pcs of Eastman Tubular Battery 220Ah 12V.
My issue now is
1. I’m not sure if the Schneider Hybrid inverter comes with its own Charge control (either pwm of mppt).
2. Also regards of if it does can I still get a 60A mppt CC that will handle charging and not compromise they hybrid nature of the invert (placing priority on solar 1st).
3. Is der anyother way I could achieve my overall objective without said inverter (Schneider Electric Homaya 1.5KVA Solar Hybrid Inverter) if that is the bottle neck.

icjunior:
My community has light supply 7pm to 8am everyday,so I need a small inverter I can use for atleast 8-10hrs when there's no light...I'm a corp member somewhere in Bayelsa so I'm looking for a good small inverter that can just charge my laptop,phone and Bluetooth speaker.

Any suggestions please?

emmanuilteleshe:
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earthrealm:
Try and beat this.
3s2p 280w yingli @ noon
Total 1680w installed capacity...harvest 2035w, it even hit 2045w..but went out b4 i could take a picture.
Next step would be to verfiy this readings with a clamp meter, cos i had about 34.6amps coming in @ 57.6v or so

earthrealm:
errrm, i think the first advice is: placing 10kw load on a 48v 400ah bank is a big NO NO.
Using C/10 rule, maz load you should place on the bank is about 2kw. for lead acid battery, even LIPO4 bank may not be able to handle such a huge instantenous load.

even if you counter and say the panel will handle the load, you and i know that panel harvest isnt steady, cos you need to be assured of steady 8kw minimum from the panels to surport the bank to carry the load at all times