₦airaland Forum

I can vouch for the Mobil1 oil and fuel treatment I buy from Mobil petrol station though (Maryland Mr. Biggs to be precise) - they are 100%

@Siena
Are you saying even with a clean diagnosis he can still have those issues? because I know those things can start from a simple P0141 to a lot of them if not sorted in time.

@Platinumnk
As long its a solution.

@OP
I think the best thing is for the poster to have the O2 sensor changed. Its easier when one has a clean diagnosis, then see whats next.

@George_D
Don't know what you're getting at BUT we are talking about Toyota dealerships, Elizade and Lanre Shittu Motors (A dealership I've known and patronized since late 90s). Inspired sells cars here and is one of the very reliable dealers on nairaland, so I don't see what this has to do with him.

The Poster needs to be clear on those issues. He can decide to buy from Afghanistan if he wants to.

@Aare_1
Not cutting off sounds like some sensors are malfunctioning. You will have to hook up with Fayodeji's man or any good auto scan to get a precise diagnosis.

I will also suggest you stop driving it for now until fixed.

@Fayodeji
Sorry, those questions were for Aare_1.

I'm sure your Range Rover is taken care of

@Fayodeji
Thanks for the info. I'll work at that.

@Aare 1
I'm sorry, just didn't see your post on time. Apart from scanning (which is recommended for that vehicle) - I have some questions for you;
1. While pushing real slow, does it eventually cut off? - I'm looking at you fuel pump/supply here IF it cuts off.
2. When moving, does the gear shift at all? - I'm trying to find out if it shifts from gear to gear or remains on a low gear 1 or 2 - transmission
3. Whats the maximum rpm you get even when you throttle the highest in motion?

These will help myself and the people in the house figure out a possible cause.

@Poster
What you will buy from Elizade is the same as what you will get from Lanre Shittu. As far as the dealership is concerned (which is what I believe this forum and thread is about) its a standard Toyota dealership with West African Market tailored vehicles.

Its a dealership you get the standard warranties and terms like any other official toyota dealerships. And please note that he runs an actual dealership with Toyota AND NOT someone who by chance gets "brand" "new" Toyota vehicles for sale.

@Sultaan

How are you?, been trying to hook up with you. Do you have a diagnostic tool for sale?, what does it cover and how much?

@Poster
Go and change the engine.

I think there is a point the poster and the general house might need to note;

Radiator coolants are the best help and a must for most radiators and a vehicle's cooling system. The only thing about it is that the application of coolants is in a mixture with water; there are ratios varying from one manufacturer to another.

You cant just fill up your vehicle with a coolant, it has to be a mixture of water and the coolant; and the ratio is defined in your vehicle's owner's manual OR you can search for a recommended mixture online for your vehicle's brand and model.

@Poster
You are welcome.

Like I said in one of my posts today, some diagnostic/scan tools have limitations and might not detect the main issues with a vehicle (I'm not saying thats the case with yours). I bought one of those and found out that it covers basically ONLY emission related errors and faults/codes.

1. Its always better to find out the limits of a diagnostics tool before buying.
2. Its also better to know IF the scan service you had is exhaustive; at least covering full functionalities and operations of the:
a. body
b. Chassis
c. Powertrain

My scan tool for instance has no business with the air suspension on my car and will pass the vehicle even though I'm staring at an Airmatic Error on the dash.

Its very important for you to know these things.

Its a nightmare to entrust drivers with some kind of rides. Imagine what they can hide from owners. The difference in what they tell you and what they hide from you is a lot of stress and money.

I found out something very important; the Diagnostic tool I bought is based around emission related symptoms and faults - In general quarters its very limited and in my own view its completely useless. People should find out the limitations of these tools before buying.

Anyone with an OBD III or Auto-logic tool for sale in the house?

@Poster
The lights you have on has nothing to do with your vehicle's brain-box being faulty. The brain-box is functioning well, that's why its relaying those errors.

The airbag light can be due to a bad airbag sensor, or the vehicle might have been involved in an accident and airbag deployed (probably before you bought the vehicle). There are tools for erasing airbag lights - but I would suggest you have it scanned and if there really is no problems, have it erased.

The check engine light can be due to a lot of factors, ranging from irrelevant fault codes to major engine errors. I will suggest you have your vehicle scanned with a diagnostic tool to know exactly what it is.

That's pretty nice to know. It was nice your driver told the truth - it helps clear the air and throws more light on the problem. Thanks for sharing the information with us.

Very much appreciated.

@Poster
Its really very strange that you would get a speed limit from the air suspension problem without any air system notice on your dash prior?, and you did not have any height problems?

That means its possible without the vehicle being flat on its backside, you have have a speed limit from suspension problems.

Did you have the air suspension flat or an airmatic system error at all before that ? Sorry, this will help us learn more and help everyone.

@Poster
So its an air suspension issue?

@Freshmoney
Especially for vehicles that have two pumps or more in the supply line; the pre-supply pump is usually playing games after a while being that its usually in between the main in-tank pump and the engine - so a lot of pressure balancing and boosting wears it out.

@Freshmoney
Please let him start from the fuel pump; I'm posting this from experience. When you have a failing or very low pressure component in the fuel supply line, some vehicles jerk based on insufficient supply and some cut off at a specific rpm simply interpreted by the supply line not being able to feed the engine with the required amount of fuel for the speed/rev and above.

Any manual will tell you to try out about 5 steps for a fault in troubleshooting. This is my first. Fuel pumps are cheap (at most less than 7k for a good toks) he should get a spare and try it out for checks.

Paying 1Mill just for some stupid registration with Coscharis is simply a rip off. He should buy a diagnostics tool for like 40k (not even for this issue), then he is obviously online - that's all you need to handle any car, Know the options to check and then call a mechanic to do what you want them to do.

I only see negligence on the part of the poster. He probably bought the car for the body, spoilers, paint, "full" options, etc or even alloys. He also might have been hinted on the condition of the engine before buying.

The same way he has started the thread without even coming back up to let us have the pre-purchase details and circumstances.

Its pure negligence.

@Freshmoney
Thanks for the comments.

The Range Rover is the best SUV for me and from my recent hard experience, I'm more convinced.

The problem he has is a very small one - a fuel pump problem (which is what I believe it is) is something that is common to most high end vehicles - the reason being that owners are simply hooked on them and cant just seem to get their hands off the wheels 

All vehicles have their problems and from what I have seen - you will see less posts of high end vehicles or the Range Rover having problems than the "reliable" average ones; for instance, this is the first post I'm seeing of an RR having issues BUT you can see an everyday trend of issues with the average vehicles on nairaland and it seems unending.

Anyways, the comfort, intelligence and ruggedness in an RR makes whatever worth it.

Poster should read my input above and check/change the fuel pump - Its the first point for the troubleshooting.

@Poster
Please do not waste your time with Coscharis; the beauty of vehicles like this is the intelligence and ability to perform some DIY on it yourself for most faults.

Your problem is not an uncommon one. My take is your fuel pump. Please have it removed and checked for continuous flow; get a spare one from the BMW parts side of Ladipo or any of the shops they sell it, have it fixed and try it out again on the road.

I have this diagnostics tool I bought from perrysolution.com ; Its an INNOVA 3100e for 27k or 37k, Its very helpful and will give you a reading for your vehicle. I think people should buy and have these tools handy and learn how to use them. If you can invest over 1M in a vehicle, I think you should help yourself by buying a diagnostic tool - you wont regret it. Its so easy to use - Just like your cell phone or PC.

Kindly let us know.

@Poster
Change that title you put up there. This is a forum where people take titles like that very seriously.

Concerning your ride; I think you should go and buy a toks engine.

@Phrankve1
You need to calm down, get a good rewire to trace the wires and confirm IF your vehicle's brain-box is still there.

If they had enough time to remove the ignition, then they probably would have taken some other stuff too. Just have a rewire check for a brain-box and the starter relay.

I'm currently trying to get a working tokumbo central lock pump for an S500 after a rewire did a trace and found that the central lock pump case is empty AND the OEM 6 CD Changer is missing (Plus the cables)

@thonerow
There is something you have to try; You need to get an uncut key (Just a regular uncut key without any electronics/remote), let a key cutter make a duplicate of your key - once this is done, try starting your car with it, this should start your car and lock/unlock manually with it too.

After this, you can then order for a replacement uncut smart-key for your car and then have the transponder programmed and the key part of it cut to start your car.

Where the link at?

@Jucol
No deal on Option A; sounds to me like I am going to have problems maintaining it.

For Option B; If you have the domestic use gen at a good deal, then we can talk pricing and deal.

@Jucol
This conversion process is quite complicated; I think its best you have it converted before selling as domestic generator.

I made a few calls, to see IF anyone could have it taken care of, BUT was told its best used for marine purposes and requires good hands to convert for domestic use.

I am interested BUT since we spoke I still haven't gotten anyone who can handle the conversion. Just in case you import a domestic, same power rate at a good deal, then we'll talk.

You can throw in some drug-dealer alloy rims too - makes it look wild

@Gestapo
Thanks for your response. This educates us on how the system works with postings and "banning".