₦airaland Forum

Who said so?

I would love to have made a list of every car i have seen on the road with the wheel pull out. I had no opportunity to take pictures in most occassions so as soon as i saw this one, i had to snap it even while i was driving (dont say anything to FRSC pleazzzzzzze).

I have seen the almighty Mercedes Benz, Peugeot Toyota, Mazda etc even a Man diesel truck.

I know some one will say Honda happens too often. I have 2 replys:
1. There are more fake (chinko) replacement parts for honda than any other car manufacturer i know, what do you expect.
2. Other owners who didnt buy fake parts are either careless or broke. Broke in the sense that you know you have a problem but cant afford a fix so decided to manage till it happened.
These days dealers even pass off fake parts as toks through dubious means.

GAZZUZZ:
Weldone

Please consider my earlier comment.

Thank you.

Like i said before, its beyond budget. Dealers here say it was around 200k before Naira was devalued but now 300k plus or minus. Besides how am i sure the supposedly new engine wont be a worst case scenario. The engine is promising since it doesnt smoke or consume oil.

Seems no one is interested in helping out.

Updates anyway.

The engine was started around 8.30pm yesterday. I and my friend had to put our hands to work before it was finished. Since the ECU was disconnected for more than a day, it would have reset but the check engine was on. I was worried until i plugged my ELM OBD II device and scanned. I got a P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input. I went to the connector on the trottle body and made sure it connected well. I cleared the code and it didnt come back, i was happy there was no new CEL on the car for the first time. Minutes later, the light came on with P0507 Honda - Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected. That was ok since the ECU is yet to relearn idle settings.

I made a heart breaking discovery in the trunk of the car. 3 pieces of sleeve bearings lay under the spare. Its now obvious another work was carried out on the crank shaft. That explains the engine sound we still have that is half as loud as before and with a shorter duration but very audible at 3k rpm and above. Its obvious we have another job coming which explains why we had metal fillets in the VTC oil filter, solenoid and the oil sump. That means our sleeve bearings are scraping away. We have to get it out ASAP before we lose the crack shaft.

I got a code when i got home P1009 Honda - Variable Valve Timing Control Advance Malfunction. I was encauraged knowing that the re.tard wasnt malfunctioning and the VTC is working atleast half way. I cleared and it never came back.

Lastly, each time the engine is started from cold, it registers misfire codes for cylinder 3 and 4. I didnt get the right plugs or something close so i didnt change as planned but postponed to another day. May be that will stop once new plugs are installed. One last thing, valve adjustment isnt so quiet like i would expect. Am not sure what the machanic did with it for the short time i went to eat and come back, he was already puting the engine back.

Piyke:
Seems previous owner really abused the vehicle with what I can see. Would you do a flush?
It appears there was a recall on the 2008's for this specific VTC actuator rattle and many who did the recall said it still came back. Didn't do a detailed search though. Guess you've seen that too. Following closely...

In other thoughts...there's nothing like having a mechanic who listens to advise. Its such a pain when a kazeem junks sound advise

I would not want a full engine flush but probably buy the cheap drum type engine oil. Start the engine with it and test then drain out before putting the final one.

I have seen the numerous complain on the 08 VTC actuator. Probably thats why it was hard to get one that isnt worked or looking sound.

I left the mechanic few minutes ago, he was fixing the timing chain. I watched him trying to fix it according the markings so i trust that process.

Less i forget, this morning he was almost fixing one camshaft he got but was obviously a little different. Markings read R40 while the one removed read R44. I called his attention and aborted the use of that one and got another.

adanny01:
We closed out in a stalemate with my Kazeem of a mechanic.

The reason was that of the 5 different intake camshafts that were brought by a parts dealer in Apo mechanic village in Abj, the mechanic rejected all saying they are bad.

What he expects is that the VTC actuator should be as fixed as that of the exhaust camshaft sprocket. All my explanations fell on deaf ears. Note: this is not my usual Kazeem, because my friend whose cousin a mechanic recomended this man as his oga. The oga has a reputaion of getting the best parts for his clients. So he chose not to compromise since we are taking a big risk of getting a functional VTC actuator.

He believes, if he cant get a good camshaft he prefers to rework the old camshaft which i stood my ground against any worked actuator. I took the risk on one to try, he refused saying he is sure that is bad. His reason is that the VTC actuator has a very little movement. I told him he will never get one without any form of movement since the VTC system is design as a variable to move against the exhaust which is a constant and will not have any movement. I told him the VTC actuator is designed to adjust or move in service, he said no.

I have no further way of convincing him otherwise which led to a stalemate. My last instruction is that we must find a non tempered intake camshaft which doesnt move. Its almost imposible knowing what i know about the VTC actuator.

Working the VTC means making the actuator constant which he things solves the problem. I didnt agree knowing the VTC has an advance and re.tard setting which the VTC solenoid valve controls through the ECU. He cant know that.

I hope moderator will see that my use of the word in bold wasnt abusive to be sensored in the context. NL is wrong to flag that word abusive changing it to slowpoke which makes no sense of what i am trying to say. Words like i.diot are completely abusive and could be treated as such. Ikenna351 please bring to their notice.

Piyke, true to your words, the VTC filter screen was almost completely blocked with dirt and debri. A full can of carb cleaner was able to clean very well. There were alot of aluminum or metal fillets on the screen. Worst is that i saw alot of fillets and sludge on bottom of the engine oil sump. The sump wasnt suppose to come off until an assistant dropped one bolt to the VTC filter in it.

We closed out in a stalemate with my Kazeem of a mechanic.

The reason was that of the 5 different intake camshafts that were brought by a parts dealer in Apo mechanic village in Abj, the mechanic rejected all saying they are bad.

What he expects is that the VTC actuator should be as fixed as that of the exhaust camshaft sprocket. All my explanations fell on deaf ears. Note: this is not my usual Kazeem, because my friend whose cousin a mechanic recomended this man as his oga. The oga has a reputaion of getting the best parts for his clients. So he chose not to compromise since we are taking a big risk of getting a functional VTC actuator.

He believes, if he cant get a good camshaft he prefers to rework the old camshaft which i stood my ground against any worked actuator. I took the risk on one to try, he refused saying he is sure that is bad. His reason is that the VTC actuator has a very little movement. I told him he will never get one without any form of movement since the VTC system is design as a variable to move against the exhaust which is a constant and will not have any movement. I told him the VTC actuator is designed to adjust or move in service, he said no.

I have no further way of convincing him otherwise which led to a stalemate. My last instruction is that we must find a non tempered intake camshaft which doesnt move. Its almost imposible knowing what i know about the VTC actuator.

Working the VTC means making the actuator constant which he things solves the problem. I didnt agree knowing the VTC has an advance and retard setting which the VTC solenoid valve controls through the ECU. He cant know that.

Work in progress.

I later agreed to remove the engine so as to have access to other parts we may not know need replacing. Especially to check the timing chain tensioner which may seriously affect the engine if its so bad.

Alas, i was a good decision since we found 3 of 5 engine mounts bad. The previous work on the engine was obviously a very very bad one. We discovered timing chain tensioner guide bolts were not screwed tight. One was almost falling off. 2 were unscrewed by hand. The chain itself was installed inside out. The VTC actuator nuts were chiseled and the VTC was not locked. All timing marks were off. Metal fillets can be seen on VTC solenoid valve filter screen.

P2185 will be resolved since i have seen the connetor is missing one wire. I have gotten a replacement connector.

tunergy:
Madam SHHHHHHHH!!!

It is Govt property. No matter what you say, it does not justify why you must go with a NEW ARMOURED SUV.

You were paid severance allowance.

Use it to buy your own.

KMT

Its either you are a child or know nothing about the government. Money for official cars are usually deducted from their severance pay. All immediate past National assembly officials (Senators and HOR members left with their cars after the agreed sum was deducted from their pay. They do that because no new Senator or HoR member would accept a car used by his predecessor. Same applies to all public officers Directors in the civil service etc. My uncle who retired from PHCN 2yrs still drives his official camry car as AGM with the same green govt no he was using. Cost of the car qas deducted from his graduity.

So, i have made arrangements to work on the car tomorrow.
Works scheduled are;
Intake camshaft replacement (sourced from Apo mech village 6k or less)
VTC solenoid valve function check
VTC filter cleaning
Intake air hose replacement (4k or less)
Temp sensor 2 wiring connection
Air filter replacement
Front engine mount replacement
Front rotor disc replacement
Gear oil change (am not sure of getting genuine DW1 ATF)
Coolant change (Total green coolant)

Unfortunately, i wont do a DIY so a kazeem will do the job. He has insisted on removing the entire engine which i told him i will get someone else if he cant do it my way. We will not be sure of the used VTC actuator funtionality so we will only be sure after fix.

Thank you so much. I have learnt alot. Before now i never understood what the STFT an LTFT were for, now i know.

Piyke:
For this I would advise you try cleaning the VTC solenoid and also the VTC filter assembly. Clogging can cause this. I replaced my VTC filter assembly recently not because it was clogged but because the rubber seal was weak and leaked. I have seen someone who had a VTC code because the VTC filter was clogged with dirt.

As so much as this is a small job (cleaning VTC solenoid and filter) i doubt it will do much especially with the misfire, VTC actuator rattle and over heating. However, i would schedule it as an elimination round of checks. I have read a test method for diagnosing solenoid and watched a video on filter accessing. The stress is that PS pump and belt tensioner has to give way for access to filter.

.

GAZZUZZ:
Bro get a Toks engine top and bottom (AKA borale,half and top, skeleton).

Would have loved to buy a complete engine but thats not what we bargained for. What you suggest is like asking us to go back on the deal since we have some balance to pay up on the car. Just this evening the guy called asking for money before the agreed date, we refused because of this problem which if not solved, the car is going back to him for refund or deal renegotiated.

So you see, engine is off the table. If cylinder head is affordable, we will consider. If not, repair is the only option.

igbsam:
Please How much and where can I get the OBD bluetooth ELM connector.

Konga is a easy place to buy @3k5

Thank u once again GAZZUZZ. From your description of the position of temp sensor i saw 2 loose wires at the bottom right hand side of the radiator. I cant access from to the top but from under, i will try to fix when i can have access to a service pit.

Secondly, the car over heated this afternoon after my friend probably drove hard trying to get to a church program in time. At idle i could hear sounds at the cylinder head left side. Am sure either the timing is out or the camshaft has a problem.

How much do you think the whole cylinder head would cost or a complete camshaft with VTC actuator? Changing just the actuator is more complex since compressed air and a process is needed to unlock it from the cam shaft. The process specifies care and am not sure we can achieve with limited tools.

GAZZUZZ:
Timing marks are not set properly.

Leaks on the intake

Temp sensor 2 "located on lower right of radiator" is not connected

And a host of other problems.


If the engine does not rattle, short oil or smoke "blueish" then fixing her would make sense.

If not, channel your energies to getting a new engine.



For repairs and further consultancy contact signature.

I was thinking same too, that the timing wasnt set well. It looks like a bad job was done replacing failed oil pump.

Leaks on intake will be taken care of very soon. it should not be more than 4k. My 2003 accord intake hose is broken too, cost is 3k.

Thanks for the location of temp sensor, i shall check.

The engine does not rattle, short oil or smoke (bluish). Like i said, the rattle it makes is at cold start for about 1-2 seconds and thats all. The code P0011 and P0341 suggest camshaft problems and specifically the VTC actuator. I have read the procedure for its change but how to source a good one will be a problem. I was thinking what if the timing was bad and not the actuator? Would timing setting make the rattle and missing stop? I wouldn't want a situation where valve cover will be opened and we see the timing marks in correct position and not have the VTC actuator to replace as worst case scenario. I also want to have a valve feeler gauge available to check the valve clearances at once. I couldn't source the gauge on amazon cos of ridiculous shipping cost.

I assured my friend we may not need a new engine before we settled for the car. We had already made inquiries on a new engine before the deal as worst case scenario, buying one will make the purchase a bad one.

Unfortunately, i am in ABJ.

My friend purchased a Naija used car described above. It was reasonably affordable plus good payment option. However, he knew he had alot of fixes. We didnt scan prior to payment. We were informed by seller that the engine had oil pump problems but was sorted meaning some work was done on the engine.

After scan, i got a long list of codes;
P0011 - VTC system malfunction
C1555 - Power steering
P0171 - Fuel injection system too lean
P2185 - Engine coolant temperature sensor 2 circuit high voltage
P0341 - Camshaft position sensor incorrect phase detected

Please not that there is an intake hose leak that was taped with masking tape. The hose is in budget to replace. The most serious is the VTC matter which search results says the VTC actuator has failed and need to be replaced. Part of the search says the engine will rattle at cold start for 2 secs then quiet. It does exactly that and a little more when downshifting after hard accelration to about 4k rpm. That is serious and too technical for DIY. The P0341might be as a result of out VTC out of time or.just may be the engine time was messed with and incorrect.

C1555 is least of my worries since the PS is working well.

P0171 may be as a result of intake hose leak, we'll see after it is replaced

P2185 i cannot confirm if thermostat is in place but fan is normal on automatic. My guess is its still in place but that will be surprising since am sure a Kazeem messed up the car in the first place.

I did clear the codes and drove for 2 days. The codes all came back with additional ones; P0300, 0301, 0303, 0304 ie cylinder 1,3 and 4 misfire. New plugs in budget plus the intake leak hoping to solve that one. Lest i forget, the engine idle is ok but misses under acceleration.

TPMS is on which i read triggers the VSA and then some power is lost becoming a nuisance. Driving the car, i have noticed once VSA comes on, considerable power is lost. The manual says so and futher says as TPMS is on VSA cannot be turned off.

When you have a car made yr 2000 or newer and has such a problem, scan first and think later not the other way round.

PStacks:
Check the turtle-cable and adjust the slow running. Make sure to tune the Revolution per minute below 500 rev/min or max 1000 rev/minute

What if the car has no 'turtle-cable' but elctronic trottle control as common with newer cars. How, would you advise him to adjust? 'Slow running' isnt manually adjustable in most ECU (brain box) controled car such as a 2008 model. Dont forget the op said 2008 Nissan Xtrail.

ken4jj:
Car gurus,

I have a car that the manual says change oil after 6000km or 3 months. I have used this car for 4 months but i have still not gotten to even 3000km. its still at 2500km. The oil i'm using is the recommended 5w30 oil i got from the US.

Should i keep using the car till i get to at least 3500km since the oil is original? Because i dont drive it everyday, it make even take till december to reach 3500km. Please i need advice.

Where can i get 5w30 grade oil in portharcourt and its environs?

I am sure that the manual also specifies the type of oil.

How can this be true if she has risen to the post of Perm sec in the Kaduna st civil service. She is Kagoma in Jema'a lga of southern kaduna.

Stop this misinformation

I cant see my category. I am somewhere between 2 and 3. I am very meticulous but speedy when the road is clear.

Tolexander:
before opening the thread, I'd known one of the Yorubas will be in charge of media or publicity.

I knew they had to offer a kind of professional service such as media.

Siena:
I received my double DIN Audi Symphony II head unit yesterday. All that is required is a double DIN cage / console, and matching climate control panel.

At this point, I must say the new head unit is NOT being mounted in the regular location (centre console). My double DIN centre console is being purchased to install an iPad. With the advent of advanced Apple / Android tablets, and great apps, there is very little a standard head unit can do, that can't be achieved with a top-end tablet.

Navigation.
DAD Radio.
Media Player.
OBD II (in conjunction with ELM327 Bluetooth or WiFi).
Bluetooth Connectivity.
DVB Reception.
Hotspot.
Internet Access.
Etc, etc.

I am installing an iPad I to the centre console. My recently acquired Symphony II will be installed in a custom aft centre console, facing upwards. This will be connected to the OEM plugs, which will be extended from the forward console. This arrangement will enable the output of the iPad to be fed into the Symphony, so it will be amplified, before output to an external amplifier, and finally the speakers. I am planning to use the speakers and factory rear sub from my old D3 A8.

I will need to acquire an extra rear console to begin modifying to accept the Symphony. I'm also looking into a motorised perspex lid, to protect the unit from dust. Or build a motorised cradle, that will enable the Symphony unit swivel 90 degrees when not in use. My only concern here is the cabling getting damaged, though it's unlikely, especially if telephone-style (spring-like) cabling is utilised.

I will post pictures as this aspect of my project gathers pace.

I will wait to see how it will fit.

Am just wondering how you will manage volume up or down especially while driving since they are traditonally placed at the side. Am also thinking of how you will manage power to the tablet. Will it remain on its internal batteries and remain on even after you turn ignition off and have to leave the car for a while? You mentioned 90 degrees swivel, is that to give you access to the power and volume buttons?

This is a good move, i was shocked to have seen imigration, customs etc with camou

Macmilla:
The fan control is similar in function but separate. At least for my car, it's very simple. It is installed on the thermostat housing so that it receives the same temperature that the thermostat receives. Once it's heated to 82* for instance, it closes the circuit and the fan blows and things start cooling. If it's cooled below 82*, it breaks the circuit and fan stops. Just like switching on and off the light in ur room.
I did a simple experiment to determine how the fan switch works and I was amazed at the result. I removed the switch on a battery powered torch light and connected the two wires to the wires on my fan switch which I brought out from the thermostat housing. I then placed the metalic tip of the switch in the flame from a gas cooker. After some seconds of heating, the torchlight came on. I removed the switch from the fire and after some seconds, it went off. I put it back in the fire and it came on again after several seconds, but this time, I didn't remove it. The light was on till I was scared I will spoil the switch and like b4, it went off after removing it from the fire.
The above experiment simply means that the fan will come on once a particular temperature is reached and will stay on to cool the engine until the temperature comes down. And like in the above post, it will switch on whether you are coming from 32* or -50*.
So it makes no sense keeping it on, running down ur battery and making the engine find it difficult to warm up.

You are good at making the explanation simpler. I want to add or clearify one detail.

The thermostat maintains the minimum operating temperature of the engine while the cooling fan maintains the maximum operating temperature. Like you said, if 82degrees is the thermostat opening setting, the cooling fan activation setting would be like 92degrees. This means the engine temp is to be maintained in the range of 82-92degrees. So if the temp falls below 82, thermostat shuts coolant flow to heat up the engine back to range while if the temp goes above 92 the cooling fan comes on to cool down to range.

Modified:
I just did an experiment. I did a live scan watching the coolant temperature. I started watching the temperature at 92degrees while at idle. It went up steadily adding 1degree at a time. Meaning it went through 92, 93, 94 . . . 98degrees. Seconds after 98degrees was reached, the cooling fan came on. The fan blasted for exactly 25seconds as i timed it with a stop watch on my phone. While the fan was on, the temperature continued to drop. By the time it was 95degrees, the fan stopped. The temperature continued to drop to 92degrees even after the fan stopped. The temperature started climbing less than a minute after reaching 92 degrees and another cycle started which was exactly like the 1st. I observed for 3 cycles and the result was exactly same.

My conclusion is that the fan comes on at 98degrees and last for 25seconds which effectly brings down the temperature to 92 degress. Most thermostats i have seen have 88degrees written on them. That means the engine operating temperature range is 88-98degrees.

1st screen shot was taken after the fan came on and it just started droping from 98 skipping 97 to 96degrees. All temperature stated is in Celsius.

olutunde12:
APC allowed democracy to win and were shocked when they heared something happened against there wish? Sorry, it was bigger than them. That is all.

Tell me, who was bigger than who when Tambuwal did same to PDP.

Some of us who support APC and still have genuine desires for our country have mixed feelings. That of joy for equity and fairness was displayed while disppointed for APC.

chronique:
What nonsense are you saying? Am I the one that asked the APC not to control their members until they went out to show the world that they are actually a party without discipline?

It is not APC that is not discipline but Saraki, Dogara amd their cohorts. Thats why i support expulsion for the duo and suspension for the others by APC. You can have control over a man, but you cannot control his ambition. Dont forget PDP too couldnt control Tambuwal.

Gbengadan:
APC made our democracy grow? Did u just say that? That they couldnt reach a concensus with their members on a candidate? Or they were beaten to it by the PDP members? The truth is they forgot there are still few political juggernauts remaining in PDP waiting like a roaring lion to devour every step of the APC. Enjoy this moment of Equity and fairness in the NASS.

Is it not to Buhari's credit that he refused to use his influence on the matter? They didnt reach a concensus yes, how is it the fault of the APC when they allow a level play ground. If they didnt allow a level play ground, you thing this will happen. At the end you admit that there is equity and fairness. You think if it were PDP, equity and fairness will be thrown in the trash can. Its still kudos to APC and Buhari for allowing equity and fairness even though it is against their wish. A party has a certain limit of control of its members especially those over ambitious ones like Saraki. Tambuwal and Dogara are others who parties couldnt control.

chronique:
Checkmate!

Question: what do you call a party that has the position of the president and the vice president,but finds it difficult to produce a consensus candidate for the position of the senate president and speaker of house of reps,and allows the opposition to determine who gets both posts?

Answer: APC

It is people like you that has pushed PDP into committing various kinds on impunity causing stunted growth of our democracy for 16yrs. That Buhari and APC allowed democracy win, does not mean they are weak or have no interest in their party.

Let Nigerians be proud that our stunteddemocracy has suddenly grown wings. Thanks to APC.

vikyno:
Hypocrites! Una don come again. It was never a bad idea for Tambuwal to be unanimously elected by the House of reps just to prove their independence from party imposition of candidates on them but now an anti party move for selfish reason when the law of Karma came calling.

What goes round definitely find way to come around.

Sorry fast fingers, go back and you will not find it since you quote when i had network issues.

If you think PDP is in control, then you must be joking. The Senate is simply out of control! Neither has APC or PDP in control of it!

What i wish APC will do is to suspend or dismiss Bukola Saraki from APC, let him return from whence he came from. He does not deserve to be reunited with the APC leadership after winning. I wish APC should do something to him to serve an example to any of their members who feels high and mighty to work against his party for selfish reasons.

I was supporting Saraki but not at the moment for this serious anti party deed. I expect Buhari to work with him until such a time when his services will no longer be needed.

This was done by Tambuwal to PDP, even though i liked him, i wanted PDP to use him as example but they didnt want to sacrifice the position.