₦airaland Forum

GloriousGbola:
obligatory

we dont hope to see it, but this is what corner cutting can lead to

imagine if the building had stood until the tenants started moving in.

I am using one part cement to 2 parts sand to 3 parts aggregate to make a new floor at my house after hacking out the former floor, a neighbor was screaming are you building a pillar? I said no. He said what are you building? i said floor, he said wow wow wow, the mixture is too rich!

Even the laborers were complaining that there is too much coarse aggregate. I kinda understand why some people can't key into mass-produced housing.

1. The aforesaid procedure is ok. But lots of details have been left. Be careful in your negotiations so your contractor wound not later claim that he forgot to include some aspect of work.

2. You seem to be more interested in cost control to the nearest minimum. This is beginning to affect your quality control decisions. Pls exercise caution.

3. If you are sure you will never go beyond the 1st floor, then Y12 is ok for the upper floor. but the foundation and ground floor must be a minimum of Y16.

4. Exception to this is if you are building on a sand-filled land. Pls follow ur engrs specification.

5. You should use 225mm block for all external and structural supporting walls. 150mm is ok for partition walls.

6. The height of your foundation shld depend on your terrain. 4 layers of block work is o.k for flat terrain. Whilst 4,5 or 6 layers shld be considered for undulating terrains.

7. 1.3.6 concrete mix for foundation and ground floor slab.  1.2.4 for columns and  beams.

8.Concrete floor slab (or German floor as its being called in local parlance) is absolutely compulsory. No time to enumerate its advantages.

9. Anyone giving you an abstract estimate on a forum is only exhibiting his/her high profile mediocrity. This should be not be celebrated. Cost is determinant of so many factors, location, size of building, quality of work, materials used, quality of workmanship, etc. The mere fact that Mr A charged you N5 and 'B' N10 does not mean that 'B' is a cheat. YOU SHOULD BE SMART TO READ IN BETWEEN BOTH LINES


FOR MORE FREE INFORMATION ON HOW YOU CAN PERFECTLY EXECUTE YOUR PROJECTS FROM START TO FINISH.
MAIL ME (my email is below)

@

spyder880:
BUILDING METHODS AND THEIR COST IMPLICATIONS.[/b]

It is important I clear this issue so we can understand how different seemingly small decisions can either increase or reduce your spending in the cost of building houses.

[b]Structural specifications

Your building plan is a very important document, in it all relevant information about how your building is supposed to built is detailed. These plans are prepared by professionals and interpreted by builders to implement the blueprint for your building construction. You will see all required building materials, specified by size and type. Builders are expected to follow these specifications as they build but Nigeria being a corrupt country, dishonest builders can shortchange home owners by reducing the specified types and sizes, building your house with something less than what is specified.

They do this a lot in blocks, the width of the block will immediately define the size of the pillars in the house, especially internal columns. This will save some money but what about the structure, is it still as sound as was specified? Supposing you decide to add more floors to the building in the future, will this same columns carry the house? 6" blocks will give you 6" columns, and 9" blocks will give you 9" columns.

Another area of interest is the actual size of the rods used, if I start with rod quality, it will be a very long essay, but let us just concern ourselves with the reinforcement details only. Some builders swap 16mm rods and use 12mm instead. This might not be good enough as the structural engineers calculations about load bearing will just be defeated, and when a building is bearing more load than is specified, disaster is just around the corner. I have seen some tricks being played in the building industry, some builders will use Y12 rods where Y16 is specified and then use Y10 in places where Y12 were specified. This is like taking an under dose of medication, and is a danger. I wish we have enforcement teams going from site to site to see the building quality, not some greedy officials asking for bribe even before entering the site.

In rods, do you know that some builders can space out the mat of the decking, making them 8 x 8 inches in space, against the building plan specifications? Some are more crafty, using either a 7x7 combination or 6x7. But these methods will only reduce the integrity of the building and can weaken the structure. Even in an era where we are supposed to be adding to the materials to compensate for the lowered quality of building materials where, again, nobody in government cares to inspect the manufacturing factories.

Your column width comes next, It amuses me whenever I give a cost update and another person says its expensive, even without taking time to consider what was done in our projects, I have a way of doing things, and it must adhere to stringent quality control. There is no need for me reduce the beam height just to save myself a few hundred thousand naira. What about my conscience, how will I ever sleep at night if the building develops a problem later? We should strive to make money, but when it concerns something as serious as people's lives, we ought to be a lot more careful.

I thank Allen0000 for bringing up the argument about the cost, how else would I have gone into details to explain things, you all saw me using 6 rods instead of 4 in the columns and you didn't call and ask me "Spyder you are wasting money" But some didn't know it will all add up to the total. Please feel free to make your suggestions and criticisms, but don't let it be a personal attack. Attacks give us power, but it might offend the sensibilities of our readers, lets keep things calm and civil. you never know who is reading what you write. I believe N7.1m is a very good price for the level of this house, and will continue to build it well. What we offer is not just building services, we also offer you rest of mind.

In summary I will say that a building that is well built is a much safer investment. Make sure your builders understand the intricacies of building a house and have the integrity to follow standard procedures to build a better house, by so doing, we are building a better country.

Thank you my people.

&

abdulwastecx:
item two: preparation of foundation pad base reinforcement ( basket) and foundation columns reinforcement ( column starter).
the column/pad base is of 1200mm x 1200mm.
made of Y16 bar ( high yield bar)
with spacing of 200mm (10" center to center.
there are 12 bars each per base
the length of each bar before bending into shape = 150mm + 1100mm +150mm = 1400mm
since the length of a bar of iron is 12m. one and half length will be required to complete a typical base of 1200mm x 1200mm

$

mufutau55:
The question is:Pls what size of rod are you using for the pillars and lintels of this project?

He uses Y16 for all the pillars from Foundation till roofing (This is what most Builders about 99% do)
Then he uses Y12 for only lintels. Got it?

Hajji M.

#

abdulwastecx:
Foundation type: isolated pad footings and grade beam.

The isolated pad footings have the following properties.
Depth of footings = minimum of 1200mm
Width of foot = minimum of 1200mm
Isolated pad base reinforcement = 12mm high yield bar.
Spacing of isolated pad base = 200mm c/c.

Starter columns :
Columns height = 2.4m
Reinforcement type = 16mm high yield bar
Size of column section = 450 x 225mm
Number of main bar in column = 6 Y16
Links size = 8mm high yield
Spacing of links = 200mm center to centers


The choice of foundation was influenced by the following.
1. The land use relatively flat.
2. The soil is relatively firm clay.
3. The building floor loading intensity is relatively light.
4. The work is an extension where digging of strip will not be too good for the structural integrity of the existing building.

****

abdulwastecx:
Looking closely at our reinforcement, it will seen that they are cut to sizes, bend in accordance to standard bending practice of bs codes.

Detailed analysis of the pad base:
The pad bases are made up of Y12 with bent up hook of 300mm by the side.

The spacing of the bars are 200mm (8'')

Detailed analysis of the starter column/foundation columns
The columns have size number of Y16 each
The rinks are 8mm and spaced @ 200mm c/c.
The hook below the foundation column is 500mm

Note : hook below column help to transfer the load from the columns to the pad bases. Some contractores/builders/engineers erroneously make this hook too small and hence unable to transfer load better.

Take a closer look at these columns below

***

dangoteinlaw:
that's for the Engineer on record sir.in any project an engineering drawing has to be produced and the correct detailing is included in the fabrication detailing. Building "A" detailing is different from building "B" sir.

It is unprofessional to be dropping invalidated screenshots picked out from Google when a structure carrying lives is involved. How many times have registered and qualified Engineers like mcgray done that here on nairaland, it is unprofessional. Thanks sir

If the facts at my disposal are correct, then the pictures which I posted were initially posted by a COREN registered engineer.

It would seem that you have an issue with that.

That's OK.

Different strokes for different folks.

But this thread is not just for engineers, its for anyone interested in building and construction.

And from what I have seen online, sharing ones knowledge and depth of experience online can and does make a difference.

Over time one can build a rabidly loyal following, become an authority and is even good for the pocket.

It appears this was one such opportunity that someone missed.

I know at least 2 people who got equipment to test for free so they could write reviews for doing so.

I personally benefited when a US based company contacted me for the same purpose, out of the blues, and shipped samples to me FOC.

michlins:
that's chemical corrosion. The chemical used to clean the tiles damaged the railings

I have been warned about those tiles cleaning chemicals. If they are that corrosive, is it not possible that it could also have health implications?

tipsy242:
That's what I'm currently using tho'...

12V? i guess?

tipsy242:
Plz how long averagely should a 1.5kva inverter and 220ah battery power a 50w Lg tv, 5 led bulbs (50w altogether), 1 ceiling fan (100-120w) and a Bluetooth speaker (60w)? Please advise

Excuse my ignorance, but is there any 1.5KVA inverter that uses just 1 220ah battery?

dangoteinlaw:
if we were to even go correctly by standards those links were not properly hooked, the links placed incorrectly, only 4bars are actively resisting the compressive force acting on the column. Well it is a non Engineered construction so it can pass

Thanks for your elucidation.


Please show samples of those done correctly versus those done incorrectly.

You could use the same picture or a different picture or set of pictures.


if you don't mind.

abdulwastecx:
Placement of foundation pad footings and columns starting bar:
The reinforcement for the pad footings is 16mm. The main reinforcement for the starting bar is Y16 (16mm in diameter) while the stirrup or ring is Y10 (10mm in diameter).

The spacing for the isolated pad base is 200mm center to center only at the bottom of the pad base (after placement of concrete cover)
The combined footings are reinforced with both bottom and top reinforcement all spaced at 175mm c/c.
The columns are made up of 4 vertical bars (as the main bars) and rings spaced at 200mm c/c at regular intervals, leaving an allowance of 1000m ontop for continuation columns.

Beautiful

Timtol:
Well said.
1. Soil test might be needed per the soil topography to know the soil bearing capacity before anything can be done and will be required at it best to get a good structural engineer.
2. The strength of blocks differs by sizes and production.
3. If you will be having a decking on the walls like the building a storey rise and you want 6inches by force, I will advice to use a good strong 9inches block for all exterior walls and all interior walls which BEAMS will pass through to the next column per each panel of the building.
6inches can be used where NO BEAM pass through either load bearing and non load bearing respectively.
4. Always try to do the needful, it might take time and cost alot but you won't regret it for once when it's well handled and done by a professional hand (Sound Architect/Structural engineer).

One of my clients once want us to reduce standard cos it's seem high for but we persist we can't bend the Unrivaled Quality, the client might choose to hold on then at worse term scenario.


It's a quack engineer or Architect that will tell u to use 12mm rods for storey rise.
Y16 might be recommended per what you wanna raise and Y20 are sometimes needed in beams per the design.

I can recommend Y12 rods for bungalow without Pent, if wealthy enough buy TMT and if you want less but good ones then go for the best local irons which I know to be LCI.


Good morning and Happy last Monday in year 2018.
Happy New year in advance

Quoted for reference purposes

bixton:
Regarding the bold from the latter part of the statement, one may not know the originators of such in Nigeria. But if a professional(individual) possess the right knowledge, technical and field experience and saddled with a client that strongly insists on such then it's up to the professional. There are limited articles online regarding the use of Y12 for single storeys but there are a whole lot of considerations.

This is not a comparison to the above.
Just like the drivers of lintel complete link chaining as against just covering the door and window openings and putting blocks on the remaining length of the wall.
The traditional rule is the use of Y12 (4 bars with Y8 as stirrups).
Other conventional methods are Y12 (3 bars), Y10(4 bars).
I think I may have seen the use of Y8(4 bars) for lintel purposes but it was a foreign steel.

Now, if any of the above is right ,one should be able to establish his/her stirrup spacing to use since all can't be the same given the loads.

Answer

gabbytabby:
Happy New Year to all the building enthusiasts on this thread. May 2019 see more learning experiences for us all.

I will be disturbing Una for some internal design ideas so I thank you in advance for your help and guidance.

In most decisions one makes in 9ja one has to factor into the cost, the present day 9ja factor.

For example if you are going to be moulding and supervising the moulding (mix ratio etc) of your blocks or you sufficiently trust your moulder then using 6 inches block for boungalow foundation might be less an issue than if you are buying blocks.

If you have to then you do the needful. Why not just use four y16 rod and be done with a column than use six y12 for example.

If you remember that you can’t do over your foundation you might choose to do all foundation with 9 inches block. A typical present day 6 inches bought block is often times not of similar strength as one used in the 60s to 80s. Often times what we all do is provide advice. The owner or builder then gets to make his/her decision and then lives with consequences of that decision shikena.

Question

spyder880:
The starter bars I used in this site are Y16 rods as specified in the building plans. I will get a clearer picture with the size showing when I get to the site today.

**

bixton:
If that is the only option/alternative you have, then it's okay and safe as long as your engineer understands what he intends to do.

I have done same for a client as well due to space on land.
Land/Soil was hard and I used Y16 as grade/ground beam/12"(depth of pit was 9 foot). Installed 6 column points all with use of Y16 used Y8 as stirrups at a spacing of 150mm. I used Y12 for mid section chaining after 5 blocks of septic tank. I used Y16 as septic tank/soakaway decking slab beam and Y12 for matting.
After the extension we did another chaining and subsequently did the decking of the water tank stand at the desired height.
Please pick an appropriate concrete mix for all your works.
Good luck.

Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge

Timtol:
Y16 and Y12 respectively.
Y16mm for all external areas and 2 long walls while Y12mm goes for internal beams.
300mm height.
The area is been sandfilled years back and so it's still very very loose but raft isn't advised which will amount into wastage,many buildings around seating on pad&strip foundation.

A better way to share the load and have rest of mind a plinth foundation is been advised to be done.
Thanks for following

Great answer Engineer

spyder880:
Linking Y16 rods .........

Beautiful work

Charisdesigns:
Reinforement

Starter Bars

Starter bars are struts of steel rebar that are fixed into footings, slabs or walls in order to provide a reinforcement overlap, In this particular case, we are attaching our starter bar to the pad foundation footing. This serves as a monolithic structural connection between the foundation and columns

Reinforcement Used

Y16 dia steel bar ( for our columns strut)
Y12 dia steel bar (for our foundation mat)
Y8 dia steel bar ( for our stirrups)

Reinforcement Brand

Tiger TMT

*

abdulwastecx:
2-Placement of rebar;
This is a very important aspect of slab construction. The reinforcement placed at this stage, includes, Y16, and Y10 for the beams and Y12 for the slab.

The shear reinforcement of the beam is spaced at 200mm while the slab reinforcement is spaced at 250mm.

Also, the slab reinforcement is detailed in accordance to the British standard. Where both bottom and top reinforcements are provided at appropriate sections of the slab

Quoted for reference

Akerewe:
Thanks for your time engineer

Engineering Enthusiast

That said it is one thing to use rebar (iron rod) it is quite another to use it properly.

See the following pictures posted by a highly respected engineer on this thread.

Not everyone does it to spec.

Note: pictures not mine, pictures copied, all rights duly respected

Akerewe:
The entire pillars is 16 Nos
My mixing ratio is 1:1.5:3 u can as well recommend the best mixing ratio for me also. Length 50feets: breath 25feets: width 9inch size of a 9inches blocks which was used for the entire wall.

Also is it ok to use 16mm for the columns and 12mm for the upper beams for a storey building

The standard practice is that you do 1 part cement to 3 parts coarse aggregate.

What is supposed to be varied is the sand of which you are using 1.5 parts.

So as far as I am concerned your mix ratio is fine.

I use 1 part cement to 2 parts sand to 3 parts coarse aggregate though.

As for your question on using 16mm for the columns and 12mm for the upper beams, here are a collection of links for you to review.

It seems to have received the seal of approval from maestros on this thread

I am adding columns to a bungalow that did not have one before.

I asked a carpenter for a quote and he provided one.

He also said that I need 2 carpenters to construct 4 columns.

I objected very strongly to paying 2 carpenters to construct 4 columns.

I told him that I would be paying half the fee he submitted to and told him that I have watched a few videos on how those column frameworks are made, and there is no justification for 2 carpenters to do that job.

That it is work that he can do himself.

Let me share his response:

"The reason why I wanted attach some one to myself is as for the pillar am not expert on it , even mine own someone did for me and pillar need an expertise and should be very strong that why I wanted called an experience pillar carpinter , and now the person has gone out for work"


Meanwhile he never breathed a word that he doesn't know what to do before then, or that he was no expert, and was attempting to bill me for 2 professional carpenters so he would use my job to learn, while I paid him as if he was a fit and proper professional.

If you don't interrogate your vendors, and just deal because the quote appears reasonable, then this can happen.

Even if you do not wish to do something, knowing how it is supposed to be done, can help with the interrogation process, and to choosing the best from the lot to work for you.

michlins:
well my statement is based on an individual builder.

There's another point I raised. If the stated price is not within your reach, bargain what you can pay. Believe me no artisan will leave any money which will execute the job when offered.

I did this gate for someone in this thread (didn't reveal his or her identity) the money I charged, my boss will charge double and will probably get the job if we both submit quotation at same place and he will use same materials as me. He has built such a massive customer base that will take me years to cultivate and he is reaping the rewards.

A Samsung phone of relative spec with Tecno will be more expensive than the Tecno. You're not just buying the product but the confidence of after sales service

No issues, just providing an alternative point of view.

That is why differentiation is important.

The Wood Factory can sell a settee for 8 million meanwhile the ordinary carpenter on the street would find it hard to sell one for 500,000.00.

Usually when you bill more, you need to provide justification for billing more, it should not depend on the client to ask you why your bill is more than others.

I just invited two welders in my area to do a little fabrication for me, and the difference between both quotes was like the difference between night and day.

*

michlins:
this is the easiest way to get confused and delay your project.

If you find someone who will deliver what you dream of in your project, get a quotation and bargain your price with him. Give him the job and move on to other things especially making more money. Sometimes what people charge you for includes but not limited to their experience, the peace of mind you get when working with them.

There are people who will work for you without you calling them on phone one day or worrying about delivery. Just pay them and sleep

Maybe different rules apply to individuals giving out contracts, but you will be breaking procurement laws in government, if you give a contract without obtaining quotes from at least 3 sources.

The same goes for those who have experience dealing with big companies, there will look for several quotes, but usually at least 3.

It is unfortunate that the contractors don't appreciate just how much is revealed about pricing when the end user has quotes from so many sources.

I have seen how this has played out times without numbers.

That said there is an issue, if you have a reliable vendor, you stick with them BUT what if the vendor then decides to take advantage of the relationship to make more money because his quotes will not be checked?

Just musing around

Godisgreatest1:
TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN

Potential Fraudster alert!!

From a recent observation..

Please I will advice everyone to 'hold your pockets tight'!...not everyone that posts advices, solutions, recommendations or pictures on this thread or forum are what they claim to be. MOST OF THEM ARE NOT ENGINEERS NEITHER ARE THEY BUILDERS OR BUILDING CONSULTANTS..they have no idea in relation to building and construction..please I will advice:

(1) Before you contact anyone on this thread or forum please be 101% sure you have done your own private investigation. You may be dealing with a yahoo Yahoo student behind a keyboard or a resident serial fraudster.

(2) Don't contact Mr A because Mr B contacted him and they had a 'perfect' dealing. There is something called 'organized crime', they may be playing to a script so do your own investigation.

(3) Some recently created accounts belong to already known 'famous' fraudsters. We made them popular, so they disguise in return to lure unsuspecting victims.

Be wise. Thank you.

I am extremely worried by insinuations on this thread that someone must belong to a field to make a difference in that field.

That is not necessarily true.

In America for example, when they wanted to write laws on electronic evidence, computer scientists, lawyers, judges, policemen, and forensic specialists were all involved, because that is the best way to ensure that all shades of opinions were considered. They did not leave it to just lawyers. But the target field was law.

What is true is that someone needs to be sufficiently curious and sufficiently motivated to make a difference in a field, it does not matter that you do not belong to that field.

Even lawyers are told to extensively read non-legal texts, that the more of non-legal texts they read, and the more of the world they know, the better they will be at the law. I am sure the same obtains in other disciplines.

There are several stories of prisoners who fought to upturn their convictions, and though not lawyers, sufficiently immersed themselves in law to make that a reality, and having invested so much time, ended up lawyers in addition to whatever other field they were already good at.
A good example is the Netflix film " For Life"

That is not the only example.

There is something called a polymath, someone who is talented in more than one field of human endeavor. Not all of them went to school to study all the fields they are talented at and have made contributions to, but they invested the time, effort, motivation, and curiosity to become subject matter experts in the fields that interested them.

I am not saying that specialization is bad, but to judge an input based solely on the background of the contributor is to be biased and to miss out on the benefits that an open mind can bring.

In fact, it has been repeatedly said that the more diverse your interests are, the better you can be at the one thing you choose to specialize in.

Without being immodest, I cannot say how many times, my depth of experience in more than one domain has proved to be invaluable in another field.

This BBC article is instructive. I have decided to share some excerpts.

For the sake of balance, let me repost what I posted on another thread about due caution when engaging vendors.

This is the reason why when I want to make a purchase I first decide on what to buy and then research who has a right to sell that item, and then only buy from such a person, unless any other seller can provide acceptable proof of chain of custody.

By doing such research I was able to buy electronic equipment at prices well below those advertised generally at my location while at the same time purchasing them from source. This has happened to me with not just my inverter experience which I narrated a while ago but most recently with TVs.

Summary, it pays to do your due diligence.

You know how hard money is to come by, ensure that anyone who wants you to part with your money is prequalified by successfully scaling a series of hoops before you ever release funds.

https://www.nairaland.com/390522/solar-energy-complement-fta/1293#118216945

Let us make fine distinctions.

One can be a non-builder but share expert advice on building without being fraudulent

One can be a non-builder but share expert advice on building and also be fraudulent

So is the issue with who gives the advice

Or is the issue about the character of the person who gets embroiled in fraud?


If there is any tidbit to go away from this diatribe, it is that being open-minded is a very powerful tool for advancement in life.

Zikson:
Please I'm looking for a certified Building engineer who can supervise a project in Lugbe Abuja. please you must be living in Abuja. Thanks.

Call 0802 five eight five 9471.

walexyll:
I am actually at the window level of my build and my approach is to get the materials myself and then, I pay for labour based on estimated time to complete the job. All the people I spoke with have not taken this approach before, they had all paid for the window as a complete unit. So, I think it is worth experimenting.

Your approach makes a lot of sense.

Just last week, even though he was invited to the site, and took measurements, an artisan failed to buy enough materials for the work he was to do. Now, I have to go back to buy enough materials to ensure that the work is done properly.

My point is, it is not enough to hire an artisan, it is good to get involved.

The extent of involvement depends on the client and his knowledge of the field and or resources.

For this to work, you may need to consult with another vendor not for the purpose of hiring him to do the work, but for the purpose of verification of information submitted by other vendors especially if this is a highly technical field

kalu61:
Fighting capillary action states from day one;nature of the soil and water level.

From DPC membrane, DPC height to thickness of casting to tiling. Tilling is the most last resort to keep the wall neat and the room dry.

Coiner
Slimszy
KolaShangOne

Picture 1 shows the depth of the gravel base as well as the size of the concrete footing. You can also see that we scraped the foundation until we got to the compacted laterite

Picture 2 shows what was immediately below the destroyed thin concrete or shall I say cement floor, a mix of sharp sand and gravel and boulders (which are missing in this picture though)

Picture 3 shows the boulders that formed part of the foundation immediately above the compacted laterite

Picture 4 shows a cross-section of the compacted laterite (the bags you see are bags of gravel that will be washed before being used to form a gravel base on top of the compacted laterite before a slab will be poured. However, there will be a little more scrapping until there is no more sharp sand on top of the laterite before the gravel base will be made