₦airaland Forum

Hargbo:
can it be use for external wall

olaitoro:
May be balcony. Because of effect of water on wood

Wood cladding can be used both inside and outside, however there are those for inside and those for outside.

South Africa is one country that has gotten this sorted out... Offcourse the outside cladding has undertone serial treatments.

Mystical888:
Hello House,
Please kindly assist in checking my floor plan.
I intend to commence building soon but i have a hunch about the design.
Available space is slightly below 50 by 50 feet (Needs to be managed).
What can i modify?
Is the ventilation good enough?
Is the ante room even necessary?
Should i reduce the size of the rooms?
Why do i need a walk in closet?




DONE

Morning...

If this design was for a bigger land size I would have said its OK..

By major concern is the land is 15m wide and the structure is 13.5m wide.

That's a space of 750mm on both side, I consider that too small or even less than 750mm since you said space is slightly less than 15m (50ft)

I'll advice you ask your Architect to reduce and achieve more setbacks.

Goodluck.

Phenmeson:
Thanks I really appreciate.
Do you know what documents or details they need from you when filling the form.
I thought everything is online but discovered that as a new user, I need a Acoount number to get registered on the MAPs website

Yes.. You'll need a valid ID card, and your passport photograph.

Phenmeson:
Good evening all. Just want to know how to apply for a new prepaid metre. I went online to apply for a new one on https://map.ikejaelectric.com/sign-in but is asking me to provide Electric account number and I don't have any.
Thanks

You have to start from your IKDC district office.,pick up a form and fill..... You would be asked all sort of questions...

After about 2 weeks, a staff would call you and confirm your address etc then they would send you the acc number by phone.. That's what you use on the map website.

Then after about 1 or 2 months, you'll start receiving IKDC estimated billing and another IKDC staff would come to verify your bill again.

Then, you start waiting till when you'll be asked to pay the about 30k meter money..

Up to this stage its free, but I paid about 2500 to IKDC staff to help me with the 1st stage ie picking up form, filling and submitting.(filling it is not that easy lol)

Regards.

dbshaywhy:
Thanks you all for your contribution... I actually pay up last price posted and am happy a gud job was delivered

Congrats... now to the next stage..

Goodluck

PqsMike:
Hi,

Please don't advise people to use blocks that's been exposed for several years for construction. Other than partitioning. Such block should not be used for substructure work or superstructure wall carrying dead loads.

Conduct a compressive strength test on your exposed blocks and show us the result.


Thanks

EXPOSED TO WHAT?

RAIN WATER AND SUNLIGHT...

Since when did rain water and sunlight become a curse to BLOCK..

I repeat.... IF WELL STACKED, THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH IT.

Except you can proof how being exposed to sunlight and rain water is a curse.. Even after use, it's going to be exposed to same conditions for years if not plastered in time.

I stand with what I said... No disrespect.

Sufisunni:
Hi Nairalanders!
I need constructive criticism for this floor plan

Design is OK.......

Badgers14
Hi,

The longer the blocks stay if well stacked the better they get.

If Anyone thinks a block stacked for 4 years would be bad for building, then even if it was used 4 years ago, the building shd have collapsed or cracked by now.

I've used blocked stacked for more than 4 years on a site belonging to a Niralander, and Omo the strength was amazing. (see attached pics) - I stopped updating the thread, work has gotten to upper floor thou.

I also wonder how anyone would know if the block is bad or good WITHOUT asking to see pictures.

THIS DAYS... everyone is a builder.

Please share a pics or 2...or do a test in the lab or simple do a physical check and drop test on site.

Goodluck...

Lefty500:
Hello boss. I still jam you for here again. Lol.

I'm a young engineer, and most of the jobs I've taken is company job, and the major role is quality assurance. So I always have problem with this calculation of materials needed to produce concrete.

My problem is this: Using the 1:2:4, you calculated 380bags of cements, 43 tonnes of sand and 106 tonnes of granite.

1: 2: 4 means, for 1 bag of cement, we will put 4 head pan of sand, and 8 head pan of granite.
I was told that 5 tonnes of sand contains 20 wheel barrow, and 1 wheel barrow is 4 hp of sand, approximately 5 tonnes contains 80hp of sands. So we can therefore say 4hp is equal to 0.25 tonnes.
Same calculation for granite too, that 5 tonnes of granite contain 20 wheel barrow, since granite is twice that of sand, 8hp of granite equals 0.5 tonnes.

Using this information with 1:2:4, it means 1bag of cement to 0.25 tonnes of sand to 0.5 tonnes of granite => 1:0.25:0.5

Since we calculated 380 bags of cement, if we use it to multiply this ratio :
Sand = 380 × 0.25 = 95 tonnes
Granite = 380 × 0.5 =190 tonnes

Which is quite different from your calculation.
I will like you to enlighten me more on this.

NB: waste is not included in my calculations.

Afternoon boss...

Let's discuss and Rob mind on WhatsApp, we can both learn something new..

See my signature for WhatsApp link..

I loyal

Lefty500:
Okay I get your point now, your thickness means height, so may I ask why you used height of 100mm, because if you do insitu lintel, you give it the height of the of the hollow block that will chain with it?

Thanks.. That's an intelligent question.

The resin why 100mm is used is because if 225 is used, it becomes to heavy to lift up and could be risky to workers who try to.

In the case of insitu 225mm is used to prevent breaking blocks to meet up like we do in Precast.

It means 100mm is sufficient even in insitu but easier to do 225mm and avoid breaking blocks to meet up.

Thanks sir

yak:
thanks for the good work u have bn doing. Ur write-up has given me advantage in discussing with my artisans.
I want to ask for Ur view concerning asbestos and PVC ceiling materials.
what's the implication of using either from health to environmental to cost etc. which wld u recommend for a 3bedroom owner occupied apartment.
thanks

Thanks for the compliment.

Cost is about the same eventually when you add material and labour cost..

I'll advice you use ASBESTOS because they can last the lifespan of the building while PVC can't..

On health factors, both are save... Asbestos is being done with safer materials now unlike those days.

My advice... Go for asbestos ceiling

Morning Nosa111,

It's great you want to build... Congrats.

I've seen a couple of response to your questions, but some are already misleading.

I'll advice you to read a lot here on Nairaland, there have been great threads created in this regard by myself and a few others.

Everything you need is here, start by reading widely.

Goodluck.

GoodFaith:
Get other carpenter
Ask the carpenter the cost for wood work for a root
Tell him your last bus stop is 35k
iron bender-Welder price for 12k

Morning GoodFaith,
If am not mistaken, he said the carpenter is bringing his own wood.... And he's also doing an all round lintel plus about 7 columns for 50k...

dbshaywhy:
Thanks bro, it's actually a round beam and d total area to b covered is 299ft and 7 pillars... Though we priced it n d carpenter is requiring 65k last ń iron bender 20k(to bend 37 lengths of 12mm)... Hope its all still fair.


Urgent response needed
A carpenter went to inspect my 1 unit 3 bedroom flat and 2 units room and parlour self contained so as to gv his bill for the lintel work. So he eventually charged 100k(will bring planks himself)... That a 3 bedroom flat is been charged 50k...please house is ds nt on d high side?

Morning dbshaywhy,
Be fair to the carpenter, he'll pay to transport the wood to site and pay to pack it. You're not buying wood and yet he wld pay his workmanship.

That price is fair.... Whether it is 50k or 65k...

Maybe you should start by calculating how much wood he wld use.

Goodluck.

Lefty500:
I want to say a very big thank you to you. I went through the whole thread and it's educative.

My question is about the precast lintel.
1. What's the details of the reinforcements in it?
2. I read where you replied someone that the thickness of the lintel is 100mm, but the wall it'd bridge is 225mm, is it the plastering that will make up for the rest the lintel thickness?

Thanks.

Morning and thanks for following my threads.
No1. Thickness of Reinforcement is 12mm or 16mm (if you have offcuts on site)

No2. Thickness is 100mm but width is 150mm or 225mm depending on the width of the block used.

You're mistaken width for thickness...

Regards

Chekitaut:
Correct but procedure is highly technical, you will need damper proof b4 filling, you must not allow water underneath to get a good result. No matter how you fill with laterite if water get in from top or under it will still compact, but sharp sand is once with million of water it will not change position.

I hv no disadvantage of Sharp Sand as filling is only expensive.

For road yes it is used in swamp area the end laying will be pave stone.

On point

seunoj:
How about sharp sand

Laterite is better than sharp sand for Filling.. Offcourse, it needs to be done properly in layers of about 300mm and compacted while wetting it..

Sharp doesn't need this process but that doesn't make it better.
Eg, can Sharp sand be used in ROAD CONSTRUCTION for Filling? No.

diordaves:
Clay is different from laterite. The picture attached is typical Nigeria laterite. Very good solid soil quality. This kind of soil is a builders dream.

Clay is white, slimmy when wet and very dursty when dry. It is a nightmare to inexperienced builders.

Very right

bizzibodi:
Is clay diff.frm laterite?

Yes... Laterite is the best material for Filling arguably.

Clay is very bad and found in plaster sand or loamy soil ( I think)

Muyi002:
Please is this okay and what is it called. Half DPC

Personally I haven't done it b4.
I always advice German floor BUT money is a factor and I understand why.

Better than not doing any

Get well soon King

Enyinne:
Eku lockdown oo

Why did u edit and remove the plan?

Your question was for an estimate.... Not a detailed BOQ.

The same parameters the QS would assume could be gotten and your estimate delivered.

Let me state also, that there are ratios, and constants used to arrive at estimated quantities of rebar, concrete etc. without having to do the design.( IF IT'S FOR ESTIMATE ONLY)

Offcourse, you would need the design to build but you don't need the design to HAVE AN IDEA OF HOW MUCH YOU NEED TO BUILD.

We call it PRE-TENDER OR ESTIMATED COST. and it's done b4 the IFC drawings are issued.

So, if what you needed was an estimate... It was possible using the architectural design.

Goodluck.

yinkaoke:
[@saydfact is it a must to include the polythene layer when doing the German Floor, even when d land is a dry ground with solid soil.
quote author=saydfact post=88282562]

NO. you can't do DPC without German Floor.

It's best practice or we can say it's standard practice.

Emmycool85:
But the DPC can still be done without a German floor right? I gave my building to someone to manage and they didn't do any German floor

NO. you can't do DPC without German Floor.

diordaves:
This is a very helpful calculation and professionally done. However, please do not encourage the introduction of CLAY to any building site. This is poor practice. Clay is a very poor soil quality which often times than not is responsible for cracks in building without expensive due diligence regarding the foundation.

We don't know what the poster wants to use the land for but I will encourage laterite all through. No clay please.

Thanks... I should have written laterite, it was late and my head cldnt come up with laterite... I just wrote clay. I'll edit

megacontrol:
how do you guys do this calculation?
is there a software or you do manually?

How do you correct for the different sand densities and settlement?

Thanks

I use both Manual and Software depending... This particular one was done with manual (using constants ie formula).

Hargbo:
What density did you use for Filling sand and clay respectively

0.831 and 1.6

And I used 330mm for 1 feet and approx to nearest divisible by 5... To accommodate waste

bigcee:
Please, how much will it cost to sand fill half plot of land to a height of 1 feet?

using your size of 30 x 120 ft @ 1ft height

YOU'LL NEED APPROX 91.5 TONNES OF FILLING SAND
OR
176 TONNES OF LATERITE

lets round it up to 95 tonnes (filling sand); 20 tonnes cost about 40K (find out price in your zone)

= 190k (compacting was not considered)

(repeat for laterite if needed)

Goodluck

bigcee:
Please, how much will it cost to sand fill half plot of land to a height of 1 feet?

Give the exact size of the half plot or the area of the space in question.

Eg 234m² OR 12mby34m

Goodluck

Newmercies:
pls i need your advice, we are building a duplex and wanted staircase to be in the sitting room as seen in some houses but the Engineer said it's outdated. pls your advice will be appreciated.

Who or what made it outdated?

In design, client brief is as important as principles of design.

So if a client says, I want my stairs in my living room, you make it work.

Goodluck

To clear all doubts, I've attached 3 pictures where the floor was raised plainly for Aesthetics purpose... It's also common with houses built by millionaires and our fore fathers...

Other building in this category are Ecobank Head Quarters VI, GTB Ozumba amongst other.


DON'T YOU LOVE THE STAIR LIGHT IN THE FIRST PICS - WHAT AN AESTHETICS... I love it.

Njoy.

diordaves:
How do you mean aesthetics? Aesthetics for a high foundation or for a low foundation? So professional/builders implement foundation for aesthetics? So you design and implement foundation for aesthetics?

I'm surprised at your lackadiasical response to a very fundamental enquiry as you've projected yourself as a knowledgeable industrial player.

A high course foundation is the bedrock of any building. The world can go wrong with a low foundation. An appropriately high foundation designed and implemented by a professional can hardly go wrong regarding flood, damp, subsidence, ground water ingress, collapse, deferential settlement or regular settlement etc. A low course foundation is a constant threat throughout the lifespan of a building.

Government may even tar the road and overnight the access road is higher than the building and there the problem starts.

Dear Diordaves,

If you've gone through my thread and post, you must have noticed I don't insult, attack or try to win customers.

I share my opinion and walk. Anyone who doesn't agree with them, should ignore - I'm not the only 'fish' in seun 's ocean.

Thank You.

@others - YES, we use high foundation for Aesthetics too apart from preventing water ingress. (see next post)

Muyi002:
Hi People,
Please what is the advantage of having a high course foundation over the being low

Water level and Aesthetics