₦airaland Forum

Please see the link below from how stuff works.
http://money.howstuffworks.com/personal-finance/budgeting/how-to-drive-economically8.htm
it is also always good to verify whatever you read from the internet. I asked you to use a Bluetooth scanner to check your engine load when idling in traffic with your transmission in drive and check same load again when idling in traffic with your transmission in Neutral or park. If you r are in PH, I will drive over to wherever you are and do this for you if you don't mind.
When an automatic transmission is in Drive and the car is at a stop, the torque converter allows the transmission to slip so that the engine does not stall. This slipping is akin to riding on your clutch in a manual car when on a slope. In a manual car after some time, you will perceive your clutch being burnt. Same thing is happening to your auto transmission only that it's the fluid that is being burnt up in this case. The fluid can withstand a high degree of heat but over time it eventually gets burnt ( hope you get the picture?). Because the transmission is slipping but not disengaged, some load is still transmitted to the flywheel and therefore to the engine. More load equals more fuel. I hope you got the picture now.
If you are going to be at a stand still for a long time in traffic, put your transmission in N or P, engage your parking brake and relax your leg while you wait. It does a lot of good to your pocket, the environment, your engine and your transmission.

Note: I said this applies to Conventional Auto transmissions. Some modern Auto transmissions disengage the transmission from the engine when it is at a stand still and idle for a certain time only to reengage it once you step on the throttle.

msogunro:
Leave your car in drive. You're adding extra, unnecessary stress to the transmission by shifting in and out of gears. When in drive at a stop, notice that the RPM is nearly the same as when it is in park.

In addition to the additional stress, it's also for safety purposes. What if you need to quickly move to avoid danger? Your spending a few extra seconds to switch to drive.

Do your transmission a favor and leave it in drive. Unnecessary shifting is bad.

please do not post wrong advice here. leaving a conventional auto transmission engaged puts load on the engine and transmission. in traffic, if you are going to be at point for a long time, shift to park or neutral and engage your parking brake. this puts less load on your engine and saves you some fuel. it also prevents trans overheat. if you have an elm Bluetooth scanner, check your engine load and fuel consumption with your transmission engaged while idling and check same with your transmission in neutral. then come back and correct your post. some new ford cars will even warn you to put your transmission in neutral in heavy traffic to avoid overheating the transmission.

Danabu:
the Camry should have waited for the Nissan. it is the Nissan's right of way. I can bet the Camry is ignorant of this simple fact, hence the situation.

you deserve a bottle of orijin. that Camry owner is a big fool.

buy the Renault. it should come with warranty and will last you years before you ever need to replace anything. trust me, if you ever own a brand new car, you would never go near a tokunbo again unless you don't plan to keep the car for long though.

your fuel economy seems okay. where do you live? if lag or pH, then your mpg is even better than most.

Siena:
[color=Blue]I've heard Lion Piss works really well. Even better if you actually wrestle with the Lion, and squeeze it's balls.[/color]

u r just a clown.

Siena:
[color=Blue]I've heard Lion Piss works really well. Even better if you actually wrestle with the Lion, and squeeze it's balls.[/color]

u r just a clown.

firstly, he has done nothing illegal. there is no law banning expansion of fuel storage tank. secondly, do not blame black marketers for this; the police, nscdc, FRSC and JTF should be arresting black marketers everywhere. those guys are a menace. they pose lots of risks and they create artificial scarcity as well.

samally:
Nope have not decide yet on this SUV....that is why am presenting the issue to you bosses in the house
But, the main issue is that am not gonna buy any gasoline/petrol base engine for now..either SUV/SEDAN

Her daily commute is close to 80km by 40=3200km.......
meaning 95litres of diesel will last her 3200KM **i doubt till i confirm this myself**

The issue with Generators and power plant mostly are turbo and bad injectors

I can deal with this.....

MORE OPINION PLEASE

most diesel generator operators have massive tanks which accumulates water at the bottom over time. some of these operators don't have drain valves installed on these tanks to drain out water periodically cos they do not want employees to steal diesel from there. like I posted sometime ago, I have seen a lot of them washing and refitting diesel filters. this practice is what kills injectors. if I feel the diesel in a filling station is poor, I buy one liter in an Eva bottle and allow it settle. if I spot particles or bubbles (water), I buy the quantity I need in a 50 litre keg, take it home and filter it in my makeshift backyard filter. its messy but rather that than cough out over 100k for a set of injectors. the best bet though is to buy diesel from a reputable filling station.
to preserve your turbo, let the car idle a while after a hard drive before shutting the ignition.
I doubt your wife covers 3200 kilometers on 95 litres though. that car would have been the highest selling car if that was possible.

IamChiboi:
Valid point sha. But not every one is as lucky as you. But you've said it all sha

luck? I don't think so. I have bought three naija used cars and they are all going strong. let me give you an instance. I bought a Honda city Nigerian used which the owner disposed of because his mech used the wrong gear fluid to service the CVT. it was also involved in a collision and had been repaired. I knew it would me a bit to correct the issue with the gearbox. I consulted gazzuzz and bought genuine oem fluids from Luvinhubby. the car drives like a dream now. same with my Camry and I have already talked about the Skoda. when u fit a brand new OEM part in a car, that parts life cycle starts counting from zero again while a tokunbo car or parts has already depreciated by a substantial amount. that's the way I look at it. and I don't trust mechanics to tell me the truth about the condition of a car.

IamChiboi:
Most Naija used cars have one issue or the other. I'd rather save up more and be patient to get a Tokunbo

and you think tokunbos don't have issues? remind me which cars I see at the mech again? made in Nigeria? all cars as they age will have issues. replacing the parts that have issues is called maintenance and that is one thing we just can't seem to right do here. I bought a naija company used (that should read abused) Skoda Octavia diesel. I did my research, fixed it up, changed parts (oem) at more than twice the price of the car. I travel with the car now everywhere without fear of failure. the same company who sold it to me can't believe their eyes when I drive it to work. and its now my daily driver. sold off my Camry and the buyer who bought it naija used can't ever stop thanking me cos I used OEM parts for maintenance. car has never failed him. just like mpvgoddess, its all down to the owners.

samally:
Thanks for sharing your own point of view...
how about the cost of spare part?

the parts you will be replacing maybe regulars like ball joint, shocks, tie rod ends, linkages, bulbs, radiator fans or fuses. these are fairly cheap to obtain in second hand or you bite the bullet and buy brand new which will last ages. its a 13 year old car so second hand parts will be plenty and cheap. funny enough when you go to the market to buy a part for an x5 and tell them its for an x5, the price will be cheaper than when you tell them same part is for an LR3. naija factor.

as long as the engine has been well maintained, its a good buy. diesels traditionally last longer than petrols so your engine should hopefully still be in good condition. its not a fast car by any means and not a slouch either. same 0-60 time as most cars. the economy trumps that o the petrol version and its quiet as well. you wouldn't really know its a diesel unless you are told or you listen closely. stay clear of quacks if you buy it. it shares the same parts as the petrol versions apart from the engine and brain box. it also shares parts with the LR3. so parts a re readily available. I drive a diesel and I will tell you I am enjoying it. have covered 500 kilometers this Xmas with a lot of short distance driving and idling and I haven't exhausted half of my tank yet. just Mae sure you replace diesel filters when due and oil change and thats about the only maintenance you will be doing. happy motoring.

prof2015:
i am about to buy a skoda octavia with golf 3 engine please can you tell me how durable the car is

the Octavia is a solid car. however if you are buying naija used, make sure the electrical are still intact and not tampered with. look out for taped wires, joined wires and check the fuse box for fuses joined with wire. flee if spot any of these unless you can rectify them.

sooperrescue:
Powered by adulterated fuel that you and I know is killing our diesel engines.

.

adulterated diesel you say? in 8 months of ownership, I have not had any issues with adulteration. water is the major impurity in diesels and if you change your filters when due and put original filter as replacement, you won't have any issues. I have seen people Washing their diesel filters to refit and I just laugh at their folly. those are the people who complain about adulteration.

Ladipodeal:
I own a W202 C200 CDI. Travelled to and fro Ilorin yesterday with about 40litres diesel. My car presently emits black smoke on hard acceleration and might be consuming more fuel than usual.
However, it very difficult getting good mechanics and at times spares to work on modern diesel engines. The mechanics charges are quite high or outrageous in some case.
Most issues they got is related to bad diesel damaging the injector nozzles. Imagine a mechanic charging 70k to fix an engine that is sold 70k. I have resolve to start DIY for fixes on nozzles for the car and will acquire the tools soon. With bad nozzles or nozzle rail sensor it very difficult to start, upon starting you can travel anywhere.

your nozzles may be fine. you should consider other factors that is causing the black smoke on hard acceleration. if you are in too low a gear and try to accelerate, your rpm might be too low for your turbo to spool up and pump adequate air into your engine, this will cause excessive black smoke until the turbo spools up. also a faulty map, air flow meter and a leaking turbo pipe will also give these symptoms. also consider the fact that your turbo vanes are sticking or clogged because the car is frequently driven at low rpms. I cleaned my airflow meter, map intake manifold, egr, turbo pipes, intercooler, and turbo to get rid of excessive smoke from my Skoda and it worked. yours might need some TLC. I gave the harder tasks out to a mechanic (he is not a diesel mech) and guided him through the process and was involved all through. diesel is now 115 a liter and it cost me just 1350 to cover 230 kilometers (pH to anambra). I'm loving the economy.

Ikenna351:
Your first two points (1 & 2) are in order. But for the 3rd point, I have this to say:

Skipping manual transmission gears places unnecessary load and stress on engine, since the engine will have to stress itself to carry unnecessary load placed on it, when the vehicle has not gathered enough momentum meant for that gear shifted to. Shift through all gears to allow vehicle gradually gain momentum with proper engine response and matching gears. It's a stick car, enjoy that fun and better sensations it was designed to give you. Depending on gear ratio and engine, skipping gears will increase fuel consumption.

As for what you said about cruising on 50-60km/h on 5th gear. It will increase your fuel consumption when you do that. Depending on engines and manual gearboxes, if not all, engine works better on gear 3 from 50-70 km/h. Doing vehicle speed on gear 4 & 5 less than 2,000 rpm will increase fuel consumption. And on 50 km/h on gear 5, the rpm will be below 2,000 rpm, an unnecessary stress on the engine, which is why you get that pinking engine sound when doing such speed on such gear. Manual Gears 4 & 5 on Peugeot cars consume less fuel between 2,000 -2,800 rpm. Anything below that rpm on those 2 gears, consumption will increase. Even if you can manage stick gear 4 on 60 km/h, definitely not gear 5, if you want less fuel consumption, proper engine running and healthy gearbox and clutch components.


Ikenna, The Lion King.

Ikenna,

Gearing for all cars are not the same. Some cars can drive fine in their fifth gear at 50km/hr without lugging the engine. Some cars can pull off from a standing start in their second gear with ease e.g hilux (diesel). My car skoda octavia (five speed manual) is happy in fifth gear at 55km/hr with my multifunction display showing me 4L/100 KM. The engine does not feel laboured at this speed as long as i am not climbing any incline. I never rev above 2000 rpm except when I feel the need to make some noise. Haha. Below 2000 rpm, i get the best FE when accelerating on level ground. I have consistently achieved 15km/L and above driving in port harcourt even with a lot of short distance driving. I apply a lot of hypermiling tricks and have got used to them. Here are my tips for achieving this

1. I keep my revs low (always below 2000 rpm) except when i am climbing a slope.
2. I get my vehicle rolling using just the clutch without reving. If i use my throttle and clutch at the same time, sometimes my instant readout shows that i am burning 30L/100KM. If i use only the clutch, the readout shows a max of 18L/100KM. Situations of course determine which i use as well as terrain. I can get the vehicle moving with just the clutch because of the high amount of torque available at low rpm.
3. I keep my vehicle as light as possible. All weights (including people ) are kept to a minimum.
4. I coast for as long as i can without holding up traffic. I do this especially on downward sloping roads. I attain speed as quickly as i can and then coast for as long as i can. Coasting is much safer on manual transmissions without risking transmission damage.
5. I use engine braking utilizing 5th, 4th and 3rd gear if i still have momentum on the downslope. I have mastered this so much that by the time i get to the end of the slope, I may not have to use my brakes for more than 2 seconds.
6. I don't idle in traffic except when it is absolutely necessary to use the AC (madam being in the car invalidates this tip. lol)
7. I avoid rush hour so as not to get stuck in traffic which means riding in lower gears which kills FE.
8. I jump gears a lot on downslopes (3rd to 5th). My instant MPG readout always confirms this is a good choice if the gradient is favourable.
9. Tire pressure and alignment must be good for all the above to work though. I use recommended tire pressure although i know i may gain a few more MPG if i increase it but it will make for a bumpier ride.

Because of people like you, I joined Nairaland. You gave your knowledge and a lot more freely. More grease to your elbows. When I own a peugeot, I will drive it down to Abuja for you to bless it. Gracias.

:oStill Available one year later!!! :oStill Available one year later!!!

OP, it is your first car. You have a budget of 900k and you may not have a lot more to spend if something goes awry. You wouldn't want your first car to sleep in a mechanic workshop for two months or more because you couldn't afford a part or worse still couldn't find a part all becuase you tried to stand out from the crowd.

Based on the above reasons, I will advise you as a nairalander to buy a car known first for its reliability, ease of sourcing parts, diagnosing issues and pocket friendly. Forget effizy for now. Its time shall come when you have the resources.

A lot of young Nigerian chaps buy the corolla or the camry because of the reasons i stated in the first paragraph. The honda accord and civic also fall into this category. The civic is not so practical because of its lower ground clearance. It gets roughed up quite easily unless you have good roads where you stay.

Another car you can probably give a try is the 3 series BMW. You can give the 318i a try if fuel economy is your concern but if not you can try out the 330i or other engine choices available. Chicks love beemers (I can testify to this. lol). It is not as pricey to repair or as difficult to diagnose as some other European cars out there.

You can also check out the Audi A4 or the sporty looking A3 hatchback. I have never used the Audi though I have a Skoda (owned by the same group that owns Audi), I can say they are ok but beware of electrical issues. They can be a nightmare if not well taken care of (Siena no vex oo). The Audi A4 may be within ur reach based on your budget.

However, like I said earlier, make your choice based on your circumstances. You wouldn't want your first car to empty you bank account just because you want to stand out.

Without fault codes or a description of issues e.g black smoke, overheating e.t.c., how are we going to help?
Its like going to a doctor and refusing to describe your condition as well as refusing to have your vitals taken or tests run on you. Without fault codes or a description of issues e.g black smoke, overheating e.t.c., how are we going to help?
Its like going to a doctor and refusing to describe your condition as well as refusing to have your vitals taken or tests run on you.

I have been following this thread quietly in the background. Nurey, we learn everyday. Now you know where you erred and i trust you will not repeat same. Personally, I check my oil and water every morning. It takes me less than a minute to check both. I also pray you are able to source for a cheap replacement engine. 1.5 litre engine cars can go just about anywhere as long as there is a road to that place. I own a 1.5 litre Honda city and it has taken me from PH to Lagos and back; a distance of over 1200 kilometers. I described the journey here on Nairaland. I got up to 160 Km/hr with it sometimes but kept it safe at 120 km/hr when the road was good enough.
As you consider upgrading Nurey, please bear in mind that there are trade offs to be made. If you are going for economy, then stick to engines below the 2.0 litre capacity and small cars. It doesn't make sense buying a heavy vehicle with an underpowered engine. Such a vehicle won't be efficient. If you want driving pleasure, then by all means go for a V6 or a turbocharged I4. Again, keep an eye on the weight of the vehicle. I wish you the best.

The tire pressure should actually improve his mpg because the rolling resistance of the tire is reduced. Its a tool hyper milers use. Op, I know your fuel used, I know the distance covered. I need to know how long (in minutes) it takes you to cover this distance. I also want to know if you switch off your engine when stopped or if you idle till you move again. Cos if it takes you five hours to make this trip, then that consumption is about right assuming your check light is not on. Also stop throwing parts at the car. The money you spent changing all those things could have bought you a small scanner.

obitee69:
My car just came out today! Yippie! I changed thhe headgasket. The heat didn't get to d valves or rings. It labour intensive and took 2days. I had to drain my oil and change it. I replaced my spark plugs too cos water entered them, smoothened the cylinder heads too. Thanks for ur advice cos with all your suggestions I was able to speak up and challenge the mechs with confidence. Cheers my eyes on the dashboard from now on!

Enjoy your ride.

yak:
wow, wat amount can get a Camry 1999 or 2000. let me go back n re-adjust my stuff

I don't sell cars bro so I wouldn't know. However, I believe that if you shop around Lagos, you might get a 99 camry for about 750k - 850k. However, check such a vehicle for rust.

Since the vehicle was driven until the engine shut down and you lost all the coolant in the engine because the radiator cap wasn't properly fitted, then I can almost guarantee you that the head gasket is toast. If the engine is able to start again, it will just be a matter of time before you start seeing an oil and water mix in your radiator.
If it's just a head gasket issue, then you don't have a problem as long as the mechanic who is doing the job gets the timing right. Failure to do that and your valves will bend beyond recognition.
The best way to restart an overheated vehicle is to open the hood first and allow it cool for at least an hour.
Restart without adding water. If it starts, shut down and allow to cool further before adding water. If it fails to start, tow away so you don't do more damage.

BluePearls:
Guys ive got a diesel engine Chrysler Voyager 96' model and my mechanic (who i feel like killing right now) have almost sent me to hell and back! Just sent it to him for normal servicing and the man destroyed the car not to talk of the crazy monies he milked from me through servicing one issue or the other. Im a complete novice and i guess the mechanic doesnt know much about diesel engines too. After 3 weeks, i decided to take the vehicle from him, now the car cant start normally like before, requires the engine to be flushed with a little fuel and bigger battery to start it. A lot of black smoke when it eventually starts and also great heat in the engine area after few minutes running. Someone advised i change or service the nuzzles and injector, is that true? Anyways i went round Ladipo looking for replacement parts without luck, even a good diesel engine mechanic wasn't found. Can someone please recommend a good mechanic or a place i can solve the problems?

I've got no idea about that engine or its injectors and pump. Ask around for a diesel mechanic workshop. Diesels are fairly straightforward and simple. You can even approach the mechanics that repair heavy duty trucks. They should have an idea. Wish you the best.

ora10g:
Thanks bro, the mechanic said the air temp sensor is not that important and that the connectors doesnt really matter as well as the engine can draw air without it.

95% of the parts bought were brand new, only the throttle body was used one which is frm jetta 6 and the knock sensor. all others are new.

Thanks sir

The mechanic is wrong. Volkswagens make use of their intake air temperature sensors. It uses this value to calculate precisely the amount of Oxygen it is getting. The reading of the airflow meter is corrected by the intake air temperature sensor reading. Some volkswagens will switch to another sensor (I can't remember which now), or use a base value which may affect engine performance negatively. Your compressor will also have issues if your ambient air temperature sensor (usually in front of the condenser or inside the bumper) is faulty or damaged. I experienced this personally and removed my perfectly good compressor for a conversion. When i realized my folly, it was too late already.

I use Mobil 1 or Total quartz 9000. It barely meets the specifications for my engine but that's what is available where I am. So far, so good. If your diesel engine has DPF, then you have to source for low ash engine oil or you can kiss your DPF goodbye in a short while.

yak:
tnks man. am just looking for a toks car I can get for abt 650-750 and b free from perpetual visit to mechanic at least for 2yrs

You cannot buy a tokunbo car worth 750k and expect not to visit the mechanic in 2 years. That's just wishful thinking. You can get a carina e or the 1998 Toyota Avensis. The ones converted from right hand drive to left hand drive are cheaper. I recently saw a 1998 Avensis in Lagos for 650k. It was converted though

yak:
what do u think abt Nissan Tino and wats d cost of auto gear of this car?

i don't know much about Nissan Tino so i can't comment on it. If you are buying it brand new however, you do not need to worry about the cost of the gearbox cos it will be covered under warranty for some years at least.

chucky234:
The 2015 Camry Hybrid is the king by sales but certainly not by build quality or performance because the 2015 Ford Fusion which is second in sales will smoke the Camry in seconds.
Avalon was built to compete with Honda Legend but still struggle to outclass the all present Accord, like I said the 2009 Evil Spirit will have the 2005 - 2007 Avalon for lunch.

Hybrids were not designed for speed. So you can't compare.

lungwun:
Your friend could gut the DPF if he is in Nigeria as there are no rules to DPF's and Emissions in this country.
I am really considering a diesel E60.

His fear is that if he guts it and the ECU detects a problem with the DPF, engine power will be reduced. The ECU regularly reduces engine power once the DPF gets clogged to a certain level until he takes the car for a lengthy spin to burn off the soot.