₦airaland Forum

spyder880:
First aluminium products. .....

How much is the current price?
Looks mature on that building.

rotecch77:
The journey of this luxury edifice so far

Lovely Sir, lovely!

aonag:
na terrazzo be this o chairman.. but nigeria no reach this level!

Really? Why did I think it's a fine stone concrete mix with some added stones (white and black) which was cast, smoothened and cleaned with damp foam.
I dey here dey happy say na like that dem make am...not knowing it's terrazo.

It's okay

spyder880:
This type?

No Oga spyder. The type in the picture below. Any ideas? Maybe Skimanski will have an idea

aonag:
actually in this case this one would be constructed fully on site like the way normal concrete flooring would be there would be no tiles. the picture was just an example. however even if you decide to go with the tiling method, the concrete tile is bigger so the amount of weed would be somewhat limited in the sense that it wont look like its all over the place

How is this produced DiY? I ask becos I have seen a staircase done as this.

skimanski:
I'm not sure I agree with you much on the Straight Casement window's but its based on preference though. My engineer shares your view. He has told me he prefers Casement to projection and I have told him I prefer projection to casement. But what matters here is what the client thinks. and thats why the Option has been chosen.

Thanks a lot for appreciating our work sir!

Thanks for your comments and thoughts and say me hi to your Engr.
The client is always right!

skimanski:
Current External Look.

As usual awesome job. You finally sealed my appetite for floor to ceiling windows. But why the choice for such a window? The to straight opening casement might have looked better. This style seem industrial. But I might be wrong!

But I am not taking anything anyway form this build. It's a classic! Love your integration of light, stone and concrete/mortar straight designs.

ishiamu:
Lalasticlala mynd44 please this is important and necessary help me move to front page for further information thanks

If you really want a quick and reliable answer, go to this thread

https://www.nairaland.com/2550211/general-topic-thread-to-discuss-anything/912

diordaves:
Don't you think the foundation may be too low for our poor urban planning? The foundation may be good against earth movement or differential settlement, but what about local flooding? What if the adjoining road is later constructed, going by the photo, chances are, the road may be higher than your property and then you would have an issue on your hand.

I think it should be higher. What do you think?

A coach was added mostly then 1 and half block at the back before the dpc. The road is tarred and the level of the compd permits drainage. It's high enough for me.
Take a look below

bixton:
Are you saying the top of your plinth beam now becomes the point to floor the building?

A block coach was added mostly round with two at the back

Daboomb:
Happy for you.


Initially, it may look like a waste of money but in the long run, what you are paying for is "rest of mind".
Because the foundation is not something you can easily scrap, even if you have the money to do another one, (you will have to scrap everything built on it as well ), l always advice that any DIY builder or even one that employs a semi-skilled Builder, should take their time to do a good foundation, even if that is all you can do for now.

Then come back later to raise the blockwork, which is the easiet part of building.

But seriously, we need to start holding the Builder/Engineer responsible, of they do a shoddy foundation that results in cracks or collapse (God forbid). If you are paid to do a 'professional job', then you should do it and be held liable, if shyte happens.

Ironically, I spent less (nearly 100k less) in this plinth beam foundation compared to the 5 to 6 coaches strip and block foundation initially proposed. Even the NL Engr was impressed with the cost difference.
I hope when the Engr decides to showcase the build, he will explain better.

Daboomb:
These sort of Vertical cracks are usually the result of "ground settlement" that affect the Foundation when such foundation is not done properly in terms of depth, thickness, strength of materials (Granite/Cement/Sand mix ratio), inadequate reinforcement/iron.

As the foundatin settles, due to the weight on it (or ground movements from nearby), the raft/pad/blinding is probably breaking apart and the sheer forces are being transmitted to the block work.
Result is that if there are no "columns firmly tied to Beams" which can "break" the transmission of such forces to the blocks, it will simply start to crack like Biscuits!
(I have ssen it a few times so l am speaking from experience).

I feel very sad to say this:
It will cost you more to try and rectify this problem because it is a "foundational problem" that wont ever go-away. (I bet your soil is poor even though l have not seen it properly). There is ground movement going on (Is someone building a bigger house with very sound foundations, within 250ft radius of you? Take a look around. They are not the cause of your problem just that such buildings do 'settle' and push ground away to other areas as they 'sink to their settlment point' so that nearby buildings with poor foundations will start 'feeling the heat'. )

If you have the wherewithal, (if and only if), you need to count your loses, pull this building down, remove the broken blocks, dig a one feet down into the ground and do a thick, inverted-T raft foundation to about three/four planks (to cater for future settlement/sinking) and ensure that builders dont cut-corners on the mix-ratios and the reinforcemnt.

This is one expensive mistake the builders have caused for you.
My sincere sympathy.

I thank God for providing me that Engr that helped choose a plinth beam for my foundation even when I could just have done a strip. Any nearby movt or road construction or clay-laterite settlement no concern me.

snakebeat:
H Beams are steel in H form
While galvanized pipe are in circular form.
But u will need to engange an experience welder & a manson to supervise the construction if u are building on a good soil. but if your land is waterlogged, u may need to involve a professional.

Bros this single stainless steel pipe seems a cost effective approach for a 1000L tank for a duplex but what about its safety?

CC:aventures, abdulwastecx, diodarves, segczy, rotecch etc

allCopacetic:
Lol, I think you mean the VW Beetle Sir.

Like Oga spyder rightly said, ....."Some" Fans, not in all cases.

If hooks are secured properly and fans mounted correctly, Vibrations should not be a concern.
Aesthetics is the area I believe choice is subjective.


And speaking of aesthetics, there are Fans that double as Chandeliers. The home images below are from a Nairalander's install. Both fans are operational in the 2nd and 3rd pictures.
These do not require a hook, they use a mounting plate, and the blades fold in when the fan is not in use.

Nice. I like the idea that it's doesn't need to be installed with hook. What's the going price for the fan? Other varities available?

bixton:
Good Morning. Please I need expert opinion(s) on resolving ventilation issue in the lounge section.

Remove the bar wall and open the dining area. Remove the gym wall and let air flow from the back all through front and side (dining)

abdulwastecx:
The best practice is to cast the column (vertical structural member) separately, and then cast the lintel and head course separately( horizontal member), this will allow each of them to be properly vibrated and all voids removed.

It is not a must to cast column and lintel at the same time, it is better to cast them separately than to cast them together

Thanks and God bless you Sir. #Understood

Rubbiish:
Were the columns not already casted from foundation to probably dpc or after dpc?

The question was for the upper floor. Sorry I didnt mention it earlier. I see people insisting the pillar and lintel must be done together.

EgunMogaji:
I'm not an engineer, while it can be done it'll be more intense to do both at the same time.

Asides intensity, I ask the question from a structurally stability pov. Always told a monolithic cast is best. But what if funds don't permit it?
Thanks

Oluwa18:
Thank you Ceelog,
I am trying to advise her to make it a 5 bedroom which she has agreed. 3 BR upstairs and 2 downstairs

There are too many walls at the ground floor, why not an open floor plan for Main Lounge and Dining?
Please discuss

I will look into the bathrooms and I don’t think shatinfwill be bad idea.


Do you have a problem with the pillars?
Thanks

Disclaimer: I ain't no builder or engineer. Just a construction enthusiast.

If you have decided to change to 5 bedroom house...then get a new plan from a competent architect


No qualms with the pillars. It's ur choice.

Looking at the main lounge, there is no cross ventilation. So why not open that wall into the dining for good air movt and aesthetics

Engr's and Builders
Please is it wrong to cast a pillar (or column) seperately from the lintel or roof beam? I think I see this being done with the frame structure build and not block build? In other words is it a must to cast column and lintel at the same time in a non frame build?

rotecch77:
Longest time sir, thanks for your time on our thread sir

Rotecch this is top notch finishing especially with the straight lines, smooth walls and choice of windows and window designs.
But if I might ask what informed the choice of a rustic (washed bricks) and a modern (precast design) together in one build? Wouldn't it have been better to go one way or make one (rustic) less obvious?
#Justasking

Oluwa18:
Hey Fam,
So my mum is building a 5 bedroom duplex in the east. This is the design from her “contractor”.

I wanted to get opinions from other experts here on their opinion of the design and what they can advice I ask them to change.

All inputs will be appreciated.
Thank you

Good building plan.
It's a six bedroom duplex not 5.

The dimensions are not very legible.

There are too many walls at the ground floor, why not an open floor plan for Main Lounge and Dining?

Too many bathrooms. Any harm sharing esp the two rooms at the extreme, up and down?

The Master bath seems small to me. A walk-in closet (or expand the present closet as an Lshape while maximizing that empty wall) in the Master bedroom will be good for this large house.

Overall good plan and use of space.

My input

spyder880:
My frontal tiles for the front facial columns.........

Spyder where and how much did you buy this beautiful art wall piece in Enugu?

rotecch77:
More

Rotecch your interior works are very good.
Why don't you also consider flushing the upper cabinets with the ceiling (see pic). I noticed that with most Oyinbo kitchen, at least it prevents dust, dirt and insects taking up space there.

Cc: skimanski

Also please show how you embedded nets into those lovely window profiles.

rotecch77:
@hamatime.
When a surface of wall is well prepared.
-It will make the surface to be smooth
- it will reduce excessive use of paint.
- it will protect paint defects ,( eg, sapronification Wapping, etc.

More update
Master bedroom glass door of 10mm glass thickness

I hope the owner will not use curtain to spoil this lovely open view. But that neighbor for front go dey see things oooo. Tough decision to make. Abi Rotech is the glass one side tinted?

Maintain12:
Hello everyone in the house, I and my sister have just started our first building (Two 5bedroom duplex) each @ Ologuneru, off Eleyele, Ibadan with 30 pillars for the 2 duplex (15 pillars each). Before commencing on d project I went through most comments on this forum, at first I was discouraged with their outrageous price even to start foundation due to overpriced quoted here but guess what! is not as expensive as seemed I'll will love to take you all through the processing from scratch..... cheesy[/color] grin[color=#000099]

Only started on 5th February 2018. Attached is some of the pictures so far........Pls feel free to ask any question at any stage and I promised to be honest, am only doing this to help others especially those in d diaspora.
The purpose of this thread is for those planning to commence on building their dream home without being reapoff.....ask any question except for my private life�� and i promised to be honest and not to mince any word for you neither overprice any material �

NB: By using stonedust will definitely reduce the amount of materials used especially cement.

Clearing of land @#8,000
Cement (Dangote) @#2,600
Block (Stone dust) @#185
Sand (10tonne) @#17,500
Stonedust @#1,200 per tonne transport #26,000
Granite @#2,400 per tonne transport #26,000
Storex ( 2x 2000litre) @#38,000 each without transport
Workmanship(bricklayer) for both duplex from foundation to linted #670,000.
Welder workmanship for casting for both #50,000
Soakaway for both @ #70,000 (35k each) despite that is dry season.

Some costs seem to be missing. Eg Carpenter and wood work. Dpc casting labour,
Only 15 pillars for a 5bed duplex? Seems insufficient (but I might be wrong) cos never seen a 5bed duplex with less than 20pillias. What are the dimensions of the buildings?

May God see you through

D1O:
Does it not make it easier, should the need arise in the future, to relocate doors/windows if needed or if circumstances demand so?

I have seen builders (including Skimanski) in his renovations create doors where there were no previous lintels. Though it demains expertise it's very much possible if needed in future. But the question is who changes doors in his personal building except during a massive renovation?

EgunMogaji:
Good idea to hold off.

Else, if you make changes along the way, some Nancy might go and dig up your old post

I don't care about such opinions. I can change whatever so long it's within the code. That why I chose to do some little things differently in my build. A very different different house from the norm.

Solid, compact and efficient (Engr's words)

Chekitaut:
Haba no need again you have a solid footing already.

You can say that again. Solid foundation done by an excellent NL Engr. Would prefer to finish the project before displaying the processes and costs.

KolaShangOne:
No it won't.

Thanks Sir

Aventures:
To the best of my Knowledge, if you are going to have a roof beam that will run all around the major wall within the house short lintels is perfectly OK, but if your roof beam is external only then it is good to have a chained lintel.
On the ground floor, you can do a short lintel if your decking will have adequate beams all around.

If you are doing bungalow, chaining your lintel is not negotiable

Thanks for the reply Sir. Roof beam is intended for external wall to carry parafet. No intended lintel for internal walls except for openings. Ground floor was chained and the deck beam were well done by the Engineer. I ask for the changes (my drawing requires chaining upper floor lintel) since I admired Skima's style.

Chekitaut:
To avoid future cracking due to settlement of soil chain lintel is good.

Thanks Chekitaut. The lower floor was chained and the foundation was grade beam. Will cracking still affect the upper floor even if I end up ditching the lintel but doing a roof beam (for parapet)?