₦airaland Forum

rabcnesbit:
Good day house. Hope you are all well. I need your advise please. I visited my building for the first time since the work started (building is now nearly completed - roofing and plastering already done, but thank God floor tiling not already done yet). Despite the fact that paid for an approved building plan, the builders still got most of the internal measurements wrong! I am just baffled and completely speechless! How difficult is it to read the measurements in a plan and follow it! I wonder whether some of these building artisans can actually read and write! The worst of it all is the master bedrooms in the downstairs flats. Believe me that I am not exaggerating that you will struggle to put in a double bed (forget a king size) and you won't have any room left for even a small dressing table, and the space they demarcated for wardrobe is only wide enough for a single wardrobe. I mean this is meant to be the master bedroom for the Mr and Mrs, and you can only squeeze in a single wardrobe! Anyway, to cut a long story short, I am thinking of breaking one side of the wall (the one demarcating the room from the corridor) and extend it out a bit.
For some reason, the stupid people made the corridor as wide as a football field at the expense of the room, so there is space to extend the wall out). My big question is that (too cut down on costs) can I use plaster board partition, like they use in the UK, US etc, for the new internal wall, which is just one side), instead of blocks. Or is this something they do not use/do in Nigeria? Thank you.

Daboomb:
Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

Daboomb:
Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice fix leak by the time the guy finished reading the he may not remember the first sentence. My brother pls teach oh, if you do all your students will not comprehend anything at the end of the day. my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

Daboomb:
Haba, this is about 25 pages of instruction just to fix leak by the time the guy finished reading the instruction he may not remember the first sentence. My brother pls teach oh, if you do all your students will not comprehend anything at the end of the day.


Hmmm.. this probelm can be very frustrating, my friend went through hell, before he sorted his own.
I was with him all the way because 'l told him what does not have mouth, cannot be wiser than two intelligent adults'.

I want to see if l can request him to post me his pictures, so l can share it here.

- Since the leak is from the side edges, it is due to hydrostatic pressure from underground water.
- The more you seal it, the more the pressure increase, as water must find its way.
- Nothing can stop that pressure, except the type of 'instant dry cement mix' used in consturcting bridges but you are not Julius Berger so you wont have that.

Here are what you need to do:

Requirement: Concrete mix sealant like HydroSeal. (Contact this guy, Peter Olabode 07060415187. A 5Litre keg was 16K)
One length of 3" pipe. A few Bags of Cement. Enough PVC Construction Nylon to cover the base of the tank. Sand, some Granite and Iron Rods.

1. You are buying Concrete Sealant which you will mix with the Cement mixture, used in flooring the base.

2. You are going to lose some depth since the problem is already there. Leave the side leakage alone, let it leak.
You will be creating a completely NEW BASE. (But you can save cost by reducing the amount of iron since the first/current base is strong enough to prevent collapse but not enough to prevent water ingress.)

3. Get a good, working Water pumping machine on ground. You will need this to pump water continiously for at least the first 12hrs and intermittently afterwards, depending on how quickly the water returned.

Important: The 'sucking' rigid hose of the pump (the hose part that sucks the water from ground into the pump machine) should be less than 3". You will need to remove the strainer at the end, so it can enter a 3" Pipe.
Suck all the water out first and then proceed as below.

4. Put 6" blocks, randomly on the current floor of the tank (about 12 to 18 blocks will do, depending on the size of your tank(let us call this floor, 'floor 1', for easy nomenclature). The new one will be called 'floor 2'.
The blocks will support the new wooden base of 'floor 2' while also allowing water to pass around between them.
Dont crowd the floor too much with blocks but put enough to support the weight of the new floor and the person who will be casting it!

5. Put 1x12" wooden planks on the blocks to form a platform, so the new platform has a height of one block, above the old 'floor 1'.

6. Using a plum-line, mark out a new baseline for the tank (all around the walls, just along the plank line).

7. Chisel about 2" deep (horizontally and vertically into the wall, all round the tank wall, at the edges of where the wooden platform will start from.
The idea is to create a good bond between the wall and the tank base you are about to construct so that the water does not have a 'direct route' upwards, when it tries to come up.

8. Cut a hole at the centre of the wooden platform, just let it be big enough to allow you to insert the 3" Pipe. No bigger, No smaller please.
Important: dont cut the hole at the side, water pressure is greater at the sides and more difficult to manage! Pumping machine hose will also be difficult to handle, from the sides.

9. Lay the PVC Nylon on the wooden platform. Leave enough Nylon at the sides so you can push them into the crevase you chiseled earlier. This is to increase the difficulty of the water in sneaking past the the tank wall and make it even more water-tight.

10. Cut out a 4.5ft length of the 3" pipe.
Important: dont cut longer (difficulty ot handle).
Dont cut shorter (it wont likely hold the water long enough and the water will come back to spoil the job).
4.5ft is just about the best length.

11. Insert this pipe into the hole cut into the wooden platform.
Let it tilt at an angle of about 60-degrees to the floor (or 30-degrees from the vertical).
chuck all the surrounding edges where the pipe meets the wooden platform with more PVC Nylon.
All the excess Nylon will be buried within the Cement, when you are doing the flooring.
Dont let any of them stick out otherwise, that is where the leakage will come from.

12. Put some iron rods on the wooden platform, enough to give the new tank base some/enough strength (a few rods, criss-crossed will do. nothing elaborate)

Now that you have prepared the floor,
13. Insert the pump's hose into the 3" pipe, let it touch the old floor (floor 1) and suck out ALL the water that would have accumulated between the blocks and the wooden platform.
Leave the hose inside the 3" pipe and start the pump once in while, maybe every 15-20mins, depending on how quikly the water rises.

14. Mix adequate amount of Cement with Sand, that can give you a tank base thickness of about 3" - 4".
Add a few granites to it (not too much as to make it too dry or have air pockets/holes! ).
Add adequate cement please so that it can pour in a manner that will fill all hole/air gaps and so it can dry quickly!
Shovel the mixture properly to give you a good mix.

15. Add the rquired amount of HydroSeal (as per instructions on the Container), to 'enough water' in a bucket.
This is the water you will use to mix the Sand-Cement-Granite mixture.
Stir properly and pour into the Cement mixture.
Mix properly and add enough of this Hydroseal/water to the Cement mixture until you have a good slurry that is wet enough to 'pour'. (Dont know how to better explain this but the mixture must not hold shape, when shoveled into a head pan, it must stretch-out like a slurry).

16. Pour this onto the wooden Platform.
Let the Bricklayer work it into the chiselled edges properly and around the 3' Pipe.
Keep pumping out the water from under the platform, through the 3' Pipe.

17. As long as you keep pumping out the water through the 3" pipe, never allowing it to get to the level of the new platform, for at least 18-24 hours, (when the misture should begin to be strong enough to withstand some pressure), you will be okay.

keep pumping for about two days. The water will start rising through the pipe and may even spillover through it, ONTO the new flooring!
You may see some of this water and other water on the new tank base but dont worry about them, that is just the Cement 'spitting out' the water you used in mixing it (my friend nearly has a heart attack when he saw this water the next day, thinking the thing has failed again! )

18. keep mopping and drying-off all the water on the new floor (dont crak it with your weight, if it is not yet strong enough to carry a humanbeing).
Watch it for another day but this time, pump-off the water rising through the 3" pipe and dont allow it to spill over to the floor, just to ensure there is no leak afterall.
The pressure is what is pushing the water up the pipe and if it were not long enough, it will spill onto the new floor before it is adequately dry and not being dry, it wont be strong enough to withstand the pressure (e go leak!)

19. Finally, Suck out all the water underneath the new floor (floor 2) again and immediately use a lot of PVC to block the pipe (pushed down its length till it is under the floor, upwards till it is about the height of the wooden paltform.
Then pour dry cement down the hole and end it with a mixture of Hydroseal mixed with just dry cement only (No sand, No granite). Dont make it too wet (unlike before), just enough to wet the Cement.
Fill it up all the way to the end of the hole, meaning about 2-3ft above floor level.

20. Cut off any excess pipe after this 3ft.
It should dry-up before the water rises to push it off.

Now you have conquered the water.

NB: I have tried to make this as detailed as possible (long story!), so it can benefit anyone who has the same challenge or anyone about to engage in the process, a first time.
Twice my friend has to break and remove a particular Septic tank becaus just wont stop leaking, until we did it this way.

Chekitaut:
I can not question the integrity of the building because i believe all measure to prevent disaster will would have been put into consideration, if its in Nigeria i will not pass by in front at all.

gbadexy:
Even though the engineers would have put all factors into consideration in the design, I hope this one would be able to withstand high category hurricane.

Chekitaut:
When God use language to destroy the plan of people trying to build to heaven, i think that is the same problem with Nigeria. We have the highest ethnicities & languages in the world as a nation. That our biggest problem.

Nothing can be done to help Nigeria. Absolutely nothing... every system is destroyed. Nothing will work.

Doctors destroy medical infrastructure, for patient to patronise theirs, Lawyers defend criminal, Police prepare evidence to cover crime, CBN kills the finance body, our IT professional steal through the bank despite Jumbo pay, our legislature takes public fund as their heritage, Teachers are poor paid, they turn blind eyes to the level of education, Nothing is really working. If we have to really change it many generations has to be wipe out.

individual brings 2months to expire drugs to the country and extend its expiration date for money. Fake product in circulation all for riches & wealth.

Nigeria is... just imagine it!!!

Daboomb:
As necessary and good as the above milestones are (and dont forget that almost everyone in Nigeria has a bank account, even just savings accnt, with a BVN Database, some states also have I.D Card database scheme, INEC has its own database, Immigration/Passport office has its own, e.t.c........so the problem cant be a shortage of 'database')............ it wont fly until the Govt agrees and implement stable power supply.
How much does it cost to build a brand new Power Station (using Gas or Nuclear or hydro options)?
Yet, the money Govt has been giving the same 'thieves and fronts' it used in buying up Nepa/PHCN, in form of BAILOUT, is more tha enough to build one!

ENERGY/POWER is the engine of any growth in any country.
After elelctricity, you then move on to Steel

How do you link 'database', when the Server is down or the Network is down, due to no electricity?

So many things are wrong with Nigeria at this moment and l personally think we should jettisson this Democracy, for now.
Let us be honest, it is not working!
Aside GSM, which is a private initiative that was started even before 1999, can someone tell me just ONE THING that has improved in Nigeria, since we started this 3rd Democratic republic? just tell me one.

if l have my way, l will finish-off all our current leaders, from the NASS, to the Executive, to past Presidents, Ministers and purge the Juduciary.
If l have my way, l will ask unemplyed but willing Graduates, to apply for Police job, pay them a minimum of 200K monthly but make them sign an undertaking that any form of bribery/corruption on their part, fetches them a minimum of 10yrs in jail, without an option of fine. I will setup a hightech monitoring team for that purpose.

If l had my way, l will introduce the death penalty for acts of corruption that "affects the state of the Citizens".
For example, if you embezzle money meant to kit Police officers or for their welfare, money meant to build hospitals, money meant for schools, steal PHCN transformer or tamper with electric installations, loot money meant for Borehole and other sundry acts that directly affect the quality of life of the citizens.

if l had my way, for any PUBLIC OFFICER who is saddled with the responsibility of ensuring Public Safety or anything related to such, acts of corruption in that regards will fetch you 15yrs in prison, with hard labour (I will use these multitudes of Prisoners on Rice farms and othe rfarms established all over the country and they must also feed themselves properly).

Acts like approving a defective building, poorly constructed road, fake measures, fake drugs, fake items like cable, drugs or auto-parts, importing and selling dangerous/sub-standard items, e.t.c will attract 15yrs in Prison

A seed needs to 'die' first, before it can 'grow' and produce even more seeds for food.

You will be surprised that the Russia that you think is the most corrupt country in the world, will not bath an eyelid but it is the "Western Countries" that play hypocrisy and benefit from the squalor in Nigeria (they need our best brains to migrate to their country as Doctors, Engineers, Nurses, I.T specialist, e.t.c)... will be the one shouting 'Human Rights Abuse' but rightnow that we Nigerians are suffering and dying, they are not doing ANYTHING to remove such suffering, appart from selling us more weapons to kill ourselves!

Refering to Spyder's post, NO ONE, NO FOREIGN COUNTRY is coming to help us resolve our problems here in Nigeria (infact, they are happy we are dying off like flies because they think we are too many );
We either solve it ourselves, in our own way and style, or we are DOOMED.

Anyway, maybe l am just a harsh and deranged shithead, living in a shithole.

spyder880:
You must understand my pain and frustration with the system. I have lived and worked here all my life, and still facing these demons daily. Nothing is more vexing than being delayed on the road daily for searches and document checks, even by cops who clearly can't read. You have to settle to get the most basic of approvals, you have to know someone who knows someone before being considered for anything. Should I talk about government contract awarding process? Horrible. I chose to stay away from any government contract before they will compromise my values.

But if you think there's any part of our economy which has not suffered from corruption, tell us. I am even afraid to invest in the stock market any more. Its just a pity.

The world reading this is a great help, maybe pressure from outside can force the hands of our governments to wake up and do things right, lots of square pegs in round holes, lots of incompetence, lots of avoidable mistakes, lots of same mistakes repeated over and over again to the extent that you start thinking its deliberate. We cannot continue like this.

And for some of you who have seen better, some of you who have experienced a semblance of good governance in foreign countries, how do you manage to lower all your standards, stoop lower to accommodate this sleaze? How do you feel when you see policemen posted to checkpoints for the sole purpose of fleecing motorists and beating anyone who objects into submission? How do you feel paying hefty bribes to free your relatives from cell for the offence of walking around in their own neighbourhoods? How do you feel when girls are coerced into sleeping with old lecturers, if they must pass a course in the university, while boys must pay in cash or fail the course. How do you feel when patients die just because there is no equipment in hospitals to save them after billions has been budgeted and embezzled, or because the driver of the ambulance drove away to do kabu kabu with the only vehicle for ER and so the patient died on top of a motorcycle after a spinal injury.

In all, nobody will be punished, nobody has been jailed yet for budget padding, nobody will ever be jailed for including thousands of ghost workers into most payrolls. And the whole cycle will repeat itself again tomorrow. How can I keep quiet?

spyder880:
On the above topic, I blame the government totally.

Never in the history of Nigeria has any administration stood up and fought corruption with the fierceness it deserves. There has always been this laziness in government to tackle corrupt people, both nationals and foreigners. The entire investment sector of the Nigerian economy has been compromised. Bribes are offered and openly collected without fear, all law enforcement agencies demand and collect bribes as a normal, no fear whatsoever. In fact, innocent people are arrested and detained so they can pay bribes to be set free, for being innocent !

Our governments are not doing anything to help. So I don't expect things to change soon.

folmus:
@bold is a nebulous. Does it mean the Chinese one is better than the Tower?

aonag:
Hello My Chairman, I have been in contact with the aluminium window guy you gave me his number and we have been talking for a while now. The thing is, my mum who also manages the project we need his services for has someone who wants to do the aluminium but he is saying she should buy the materials and she would pay for his workmanship but to be honest, I don't want her to do that because she may not have the best eyes when it comes to buying quality of something she probably doesnt have so much clue about. So I was talking with her today and I told her about your person and she was asking me if he was going to use tower or foreign and I said he told me he was using tower. She told me sometimes they say all that and when you make a deposit they go to buy the foreign one or a cheaper one and use for the work. I tried to make her understand that I met him through a recommendation and that you are somewhat versed in building too. she wanted to be sure you were versed in the right kind of aluminium that was used for you by this person.

Anyway, my point is that, is Biodun trusted by you enough? I don't want an instance something or what she mentioned up there can happen to us. Although when we meet I would let him understand the antics used to make more profit and that we would not want any of that.

skimanski:
External pre- cast works

Timtol:
Lol...na so
At an affordable rate with seal 250k for both tho Lagos matters.
250k with no approval oo.
Architectural files might contain 20-30files
Present duplex am working on has 26files.
Location ibeju Lekki.
5bedroom duplex with pent/patio.
Construction to start middle May.
Structural files as well abt 30files.
So imagine abt 55-60files so it's pass just two design in negating one of your statement up there.

Dominionng:
Rate of POP precast will differ based on design and project volume. But the least you can get for POP ceiling using plasterboard is N4,500/sqm

Dominionng:
Presently sir, it is 1:1.4

Dominionng:
Thickness alone doesn't guarantee a strong precast POP board sir. Installers can increase the volume of water, then reduce the quantity of POP cement to achieve your desired thickness. Vibrations or introducing ceiling speakers to your POP, then cracks starts springing up.

diordaves:
Oh Bob, forget PVC. Whether from China o or Nigeria or even planet Jupiter sef; the fact still remains: PVC is a fire hazard in homes. Aesthetics over health and safety is not on.

I did POP during the heat of exchange rate for N3,800 per sqm in Delta all inclusive. If you can go into the trouble of importing from China for domestic use, you can as well settle for home grown. All you need do is look for a 'strong hand' and project manage him to your concept.

aonag:
who has an idea how much it costs persqm to install POP and also cost persqm for wall screeding.. if you can recommend someone good for me, il appreciate that..oga hajj, bros Egun...

i am trying to pull this off (see pic), i ordered samples of pvc from china and it came through yesterday..these feel like real wood though.. if its sold in Nigeria too please I would like to know where..

thanks..

EgunMogaji:
Where did the N60M come from?

Cough...ahem..cough

Na Oyinbo build am now

EgunMogaji:
Free. If you have a crane and a trailer.

They liter Lagos - Ibadan Expressway. When they fall of the trailers, they just unload into another container because they don't have crane to lift it.

Heck, you can maybe even spin it to Ambode that you're beautifying Lagos by removing liter and they'll pay you

EgunMogaji:
https://www.nairaland.com/4454064/shipping-container-prices-remodeled-shipping#66744794

"10ft container cost- N250,000
20ft container cost- N370,000
40ft container cost- N480,000
10ft well finished open office/space container (2 windows/1 door) cost- N 720,000
20ft well finished open office/space container (4 windows/1 door) cost- N 1,200,000
40ft well finished open office/space container (6 windows/1 door) cost- N 1,600,000

10ft remodeled house (room, kitchen, toilet, 2 windows/2 doors) cost- N 850,000
20ft remodeled house (room, kitchen, toilet, 4 windows/2 doors) cost- N 1,300,000
40ft remodeled house (2 rooms, kitchen, toilet, 6 windows/3 doors) cost- N 1,800,000

Containers can be creatively arranged and remodeled to form housing units,
Shipping Container house cost depends on models, arrangements, and Final finishes adopted
Our shipping container offices and houses are made to be cooler than conventional houses at the same time cheaper, and we deliver to you an awesome experience."

HolyCraig:
The 2bedroom container house will cost you a whopping 60million!


The figure killed the interest.

allCopacetic:
1. I Believe it is easier to breach a brick and mortar wall than a shipping container.
A few blows from a sledge hammer will give you easy acess to a brick and mortar wall, but you need some serious equipme to easily cut through this.

2. I don't see why town planning will deny you the pleasure of building your house with

3. I'm not sure what you mean by Safety from Rain, but with regards to lightning strikes, If sensitive equipment on telecom towers that are 99% metal with heights in tens of metres can be protected from Lightning strikes.....

4. Ventilation? ? That structure is superbly ventilated. Part of the beauty of metal is the ease of adaptability. you can cut openings as large or little as you like. In whatever shape or form, In any location. You can weld and create all sorts of burglar bars and attachments.look at those stairs for instance

5. Nothing special about this case, it's even more convenient and faster to wire a structure like this. It also poses less fire risks because of the materials used. Fire won't spread easily.
But note the use of the right kind of wire..... multicore flexible cables ( which have extra pvc sheating on top of the pvc insulation) as opposed to single core cables which have only pvc insulation. That way you do not run the risk of cable insulation getting bruised or peeling off and exposing the bare conductor to contact with any part of the metal body.

adanny01:
With regards to the question, sharp sand or just sand and laterite are very different in terms of their definition and their engineering properties. Laterite should not be referred to as sand but may be suitably called soil.

The major engineering difference is in the particle size distribution with laterite having a broad distribution or particle size from clay through silt to sand while sand is generally size distribution that is coarser than silt but finer than gravel. Difference between sand and sharp sand has to do with shape of the particle rather than size with the latter being more specific to the shape.

The second engineering difference is the chemical composition which is derived from rocks it was formed from. Laterite has majorly iron and aluminum while sand is silicon and calcium.

Every definition of laterite must contain the word reddish and clayey because of its particle size which contains more clay and silt than sand.

Rubbiish:
Lol...It's laterite.
It expands when subjected to water, reason why it is bad for waterlogged areas.

Rubbiish:
By laterite do u mean red sand?
If that is the case comparing sharp sand & laterite for filling for waterlogged is not debatable because of its properties. Sharp sand is better.

spyder880:
Good morning Oga, there's nothing wrong with filling a foundation with laterite sand, but the right compaction methods must be employed to sink in the soil into all foundation crevices while achieving a compaction method which must ensure that the filling is strong enough to support the floor. Compaction of laterite filling should be done in stages, every 300mm thickness. Problem comes when people are in a hurry, and so ignore the right compaction methods. I am happy you left your filling for some time to sink better.

On the other hand, the white sharp sand which are got from the rivers serve as a better filling material. The cleaner the sand, the better. The filling sand could be coarse too. This material may not sink much under compaction but fills in more crevices and bears much more weight. The other type of sharp sand he mentioned is not clear to me, so I prefer river sharp sand.

I also know that the right materials and right procedures are most times contained in the building plans, which are site specific. The guy who prepares the building plans should visit the site and pass recommendation on the right materials and process, including type of filling sand.

abdulwastecx:
Minimum of 3m by the sides, back and 6m at the front

EgunMogaji:
“In Nigeria, there is a specific body that has been set up to help consumers deal with issues where companies have either provided poor service or they have sold substandard goods to the consumer. This organization is the Consumer Protection Council – CPC.

The CPC is an agency of the Government under the supervision of the Federal Ministry of Trade and Investment. It commenced operations in Nigeria in 1999. The CPC has 5 primary functions –

To inform consumers about their rights
To eliminate hazardous products from the market and ensure that products and services comply with required standards/specifications
To issue guidelines and regulations to producers of goods and services
To prosecute offenders when and where necessary
To provide redress to consumer complaints
So, all in all, the CPC is a pretty powerful agency, it is in fact the most powerful consumer redress and monitoring agency in Nigeria.”

https://lawpadi.com/complain-bad-product-service-nigeria/