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Pics of olumide

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Olumide is a taxify driver just like so many others who go out everyday to work just to make ends meet for them.and their family, he was murdered by a rider he picked from the island to iponri on the 7th of January 2019, and was laid to rest on the 10th of January 2019, this goes to show the harsh reality we are faced with in thus country, till now, nothing has been heard from taxify or the police regarding this incident, this is one of the neglect being suffered by this drivers from these app companies namely uber and taxify, these drivers are referred to by them as partners but in the real sense, they are slaves to the app companies, all the app companies are interested in is for the drivers to continuously work to enrich them while their safety and welfare is ignored, there have been countless times when this drivers are being attacked by their riders while on a trip and have their belongings stolen from them, some even had their cars snatched from them. These drivers on countless times had called on the app companies to verify the information's of the riders so as to ensure the safety of the drivers but this has continuously fallen on deaf ears, while they have the verified informations of the drivers, this is appalling, if we live in a sane society, the death of olumide and some other drivers on these platforms including the terrors some drivers had to deal with from criminal elements in form of riders will not go without justice prevailing, but alas, we live in terrible society where security and justice is not guaranteed though we pay our taxes. This is the bitter truth

GAZZUZZ:


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The car?

Doctor Gazzuz

The car in question vibrates when the ac is on and on idle,

loses power and almost goes off when the ac and engine fan picks, and this happens with heavy jerks, when such, happens I quickly switch off the ac and return the gear to neutral,

Sometimes it drags before it picks momentum when the gear is engaged.

What Could be possible solutions to this?

It's a Honda accord EOD 05 model.

Thanks

This Gazzuz over funny die

It's a Honda accord EOD 05 model

GAZZUZZ:


www.nairaland.com/attachments/5034755_38468103829706bjpeg0ffe7dcb11da9a174bea48bd356ea1bajpegc21e03e385bae54fa9657c7d40b49361_jpegfd3985774ae7dfe8926e74f918a3a9e0



The car?

Chairman Gazzuz, I thank God for ur life, even though u have a very busy schedule u still make out time to answer peoples queries and solving so many people's problems and at d same time teaching so many people plenty plenty things, this thread is an eye opening thread. May God continue to bless u,

I intend visiting your workshop for a Gazzuz touch on my car, since I got it I hv been d one doing repairs to it, I have vowed not to patronize any kazeem again in my life. Can I come on Monday?

My car vibrates on idle when d ac is on, though I had the following codes

P2185
P0141
P0325
P0172

I just scanned it and got 2 more codes

P1121
P0171

I hv tried getting a good knock sensor to no avail
I hv looked for where to get an 02 sensor adapter for the bank 1 sensor 2, no success yet, I think both 02 sensors need cleaning anyway, but ur expert eye will see better, I will change the engine air filter today, the fuel pump I got on Thursday didn't fit well, will change it today, but I still need u to touch my car. Pls let me know if I can come on Monday. Thanks and God bless u. More anointing to ur mussle, more success to ur hussle

Sometime back, my key remote stopped working, I felt it was d battery in d remote, I got any battery and changed it a few days ago, but, it still.refused to work,

any ideas on what I can do to get it working again?

Thanks

Thanks for this suggestion,
I had to check d fuse box under d dash after I had remotely powered the power window motors independently, I discovered that d fuse for passenger windows was not having a positive feed, I then gave it the positive feed, initially, d rear window behind d drivers seat and d front passenger window worked fine, but, eventually, the rear window behind d drivers seat stopped working, but continued giving me d clicking sound, don't know what went wrong again, presently,
after d fuse work, both windows in front are working, but d rear windows aren't, but only gives me d clicking sound, I think, I will try ur method out and see if it works, if it doesn't, I will have to change d main power window switch on d driver's side. Perhaps, that also, might be d culprit.

adanny01:
If you get clicks on the door you try to operate, it means there is power to that door.

I have experienced similar problem with my EOD but not on 3 windows like you, mine was just one rear right window. In my own case, the window stopped operating while fully down. Took it for repairs, immediately the winding mechanism was removed and plugged to power, it worked perfectly. Putting everything back it worked like magic at the workshop but immediately i left, it stopped again. An electrician later checked the motor brushes but they were not worn out. The was nothing to be done as it keeps stopping and starting at will. Because of the frequency of the problem especially stopping when the glass is down i disconnected the window for half a year. I knew how to dismantle the window and put it back.

Just like you, i only get çlicks from the window when it stops. The solution to my problem was greasing and cleaning the brush contact to amateur. Its over 6 months now and its still working when mechanics said i needed to buy a new winding mechanism.

Let me explain how the click works, the window is supposed to click only when limits are reached. The system has a something i cant easily explain like a "torque limiter" (my assumption). It works by way of knowing that the window has reached a limit when the normal force applied to move the window has been overcomed by a force stopping it. It clicks to stop supply of power so as not to damage or over work the motor. This means that in normal operation, the window clicks at the top limit as well as the bottom limit. My conclusion was that anything that causes the window to click when it has ample allowances to move is either from the mechanism or window rail. It means the system cannot overcome the force to push or pull the window.

In my own case removing the 3 bolts holding the motor housing in place will just allow the window to work like magic. If i bolt the motor housing back, it stops soon afterwards. So i localized my problem to the motor housing area. I greased the cable winder and the improved the brush contact making the motor stronger.

I suggest you take out one of the mechanism and try it without load.

I just have not been able to actually get where d problem is coming from

adanny01:
Come oh! There is a switch on the drivers door that stops all 3 windows from operating. The drivers window is excluded and this sounds like that button was pressed.

Press the button to turn it off then try again.

Boss, that button is not the issue, let me analyse it for u
When u press down d power button, and try controlling either of d windows from.d driver side, the clicking sound stops, but when u put off d power button, and try controlling either of d windows from d driver's side it clicks, I feel, a line has been bridged, and I feel d problem is coming from.the driver's side.

adanny01:
Come oh! There is a switch on the drivers door that stops all 3 windows from operating. The drivers window is excluded and this sounds like that button was pressed.

Press the button to turn it off then try again.

GAZZUZZ:
your mechanic should be shot!

How do you glue a pressure regulator?

Please park that car until you replace the part.

if your car catches fire now you will start blaming village people.

Can u just imagine, all those kazeem just dey destroy people car

eagleeye2:
if the fuses are ruled out then it may be the motor, but it's unlikely that it will go bad all at the same time. I will suggest you check the fuses again.

Thanks for your response, I have checked all the fuses and they are intact, checked the electric window motors, they are also intact, what baffled me is that the 3 window operations went kaput dsame time, but d driver window kept working fine, I'm.suspecting that d main power switch on the driver's side is d culprit

Help, my Honda EOD's passenger power windows does not operate, only d driver power window works, it just happened that these windows usy stopped working at the same time, when I try controlling it from d driver power window, all I get is a clicking sound from the three power windows, but it won't respond, if I try operating the windows s individually, they don't respond too, have checked all d fuses, and they are intact. Anyone with similar experience, and probable solution should pls help me out. Thanks

kaffy4tope:
700k

No boss

kcbaba007:
Boss, that is why am on this thread, to learn, pls, tell me how to check for a good IACV, my car has been idling high, between 1500-2000rpm, this is the 3rd IACV I am changing, yet, no difference, I unplugged d present IACV,
and tried to manually reduce the rpm in order to confirm that I don't have any vacuum leak, and I was able to bring it down to between 1000-1300rpm, this shows that d problem is from the IACV, just my assertion though, abi, wetin I know when I HV plenty gurus in the house

Abeg, help a broda in need. Thanks and God bless. More so, oga gazzuz and other car techs in the house, my previous query has not received answer o! Abeg o, make una answer me, you might be saving someone's life by doing so. Thanks again

Thank God, olisa m'binigwe thanks sir, problem was eventually solved I was able to fix the car today, even without getting any other IACV, I and my partner worked together and eventually found a solution to it. RPM back to normal.

I appreciate Gazzuz for putting up.this thread, and thumbs up for all d car techs here for contributing in solving people's problem, you all are partners in progress and success.

Boss, that is why am on this thread, to learn, pls, tell me how to check for a good IACV, my car has been idling high, between 1500-2000rpm, this is the 3rd IACV I am changing, yet, no difference, I unplugged d present IACV,
and tried to manually reduce the rpm in order to confirm that I don't have any vacuum leak, and I was able to bring it down to between 1000-1300rpm, this shows that d problem is from the IACV, just my assertion though, abi, wetin I know when I HV plenty gurus in the house

Abeg, help a broda in need. Thanks and God bless. More so, oga gazzuz and other car techs in the house, my previous query has not received answer o! Abeg o, make una answer me, you might be saving someone's life by doing so. Thanks again

GAZZUZZ:
IAVC, has an electronic motor and a mechanical valve. Testing the IACV is possible, but if you are able to understand it, you would not be on this thread.

The knock sensor produces A.C voltage when it vibrates, tap repeatedly and see if you can generate about 5v a.c, again if you can do this, you will not be on this thread.

Good day Gazzuz, I am still expecting a reply to my query, I previously asked you the question on the other thread " when it's time to return to factory specs" you asked me to ask the question on this thread which I did.

Also, I would like to know how to test if an IACV is working at the point of sale? cos I got one from ladipo, put it in my vehicle, but the problem still persists....

Also, how do one test a tokunbo knock sensor to know if it's okay at d point of sale?

Thanks

GAZZUZZ:
you can ask here

Sir, Gazzuzz, you are a blessing indeed, I appreciate other experienced car techs in the house, pls, could u give us some examples of mineral lubrication oils that will be effective as per cars?
e.g, I use a Honda accord 2005 model, I am.presently bringing it back to factory order, but skeptical about the lubrication oil to use, something within was actually telling me not to use d manufacturer's recommended oil

Second question sir, what if the oil strainer is cleaned out and sludge removed from the engine, will it be able to accommodate d manufacturer's recommended lubricating oil?

Third question sir, forgive me of my inquisitive nature, will it be wise to flush d engine to get rid of sludge?

Gazzuzz and other car tech gurus in the house, I appreciate your eye opening works here, I HV been greatly oriented, in fact, I have been taking notes, anyways, gazzuz, you have not answered my query on the other thread " when it's time to return to factory specs" your answers will be a big enlightenment to people that eventually bought naija used cars and a caution for people with toks cars. Auntie Radu, I love ur guts, for a woman in a highly male dominated field... It is challenging. Kudos

Available

More pics

Very clean reg. Camry 04 model with
Leather seats,
Back ac vent
Working ac
Alloy wheels
Auto gear trans
Clean interior
Very functional
Pay and drive
Just 1m only
For quick response
Pls use call and WhatsApp number: 08056022511
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@op, what if I say u are very blind brain, does this look like a club to your brain? Kwantinu spreading fake news

And yes! The car was heavily kazeemized, d IACV was blocked just as u has posited, it caused unnecessary vibrations, kazeem had used d thermostat for lunch, and had also taken d catalytic converter for breakfast, I just had to order for a new IACV, knock sensor, TPS, the upstream and down stream O2 sensors, engine air filter, cabin air filter, thermistor, thermostat, and an O2 spacer, I just hope after doing all this, the engine will bounce back.

kcbaba007:
Sir, Gazzuzz, you are a blessing indeed, I appreciate other experienced car techs in the house, pls, could u give us some examples of mineral lubrication oils that will be effective as per cars?
e.g, I use a Honda accord 2005 model, I am.presently bringing it back to factory order, but skeptical about the lubrication oil to use, something within was actually telling me not to use d manufacturer's recommended oil

Second question sir, what if the oil strainer is cleaned out and sludge removed from the engine, will it be able to accommodate d manufacturer's recommended lubricating oil?

Third question sir, forgive me of my inquisitive nature, will it be wise to flush d engine to get rid of sludge?

Sir, Gazzuzz, you are a blessing indeed, I appreciate other experienced car techs in the house, pls, could u give us some examples of mineral lubrication oils that will be effective as per cars?
e.g, I use a Honda accord 2005 model, I am.presently bringing it back to factory order, but skeptical about the lubrication oil to use, something within was actually telling me not to use d manufacturer's recommended oil

Second question sir, what if the oil strainer is cleaned out and sludge removed from the engine, will it be able to accommodate d manufacturer's recommended lubricating oil?

Third question sir, forgive me of my inquisitive nature, will it be wise to flush d engine to get rid of sludge?

GAZZUZZ:
Now to what finally killed the camry 2003 engine.

www.nairaland.com/attachments/7631382_15351915827381570955335_jpeg69189f8f3156997bf3aae2349c4e7e9a

www.nairaland.com/attachments/7631383_15351916496312041153151_jpegdf61473f08f43dda1a8c39eb33f50a78

I pulled this pic from this thread https://www.nairaland.com/4683700/toyota-4runner-2007-1gr-fe-fix/1

this is a typical example of why you should not pour full synthetic oil into an engine that has been abused.

remember we talked about how sludge gradually builds up in the engine, well sludge if left alone, does not cause any immediate harm,in most cases engine death is slow but sure.

Now this is what happens when you pour synthetic oil into an engine with a great amount of sludge.

Full synthetic engine oils have cleaning additives, they work like detergents, and are able to break down accumulated sludge in the engine very quickly. The ability of full synthetic oils to keep an engine clean, in a healthy engine is harmless, the particles get trapped in the oil filter and after an oil (oil and filter change) drain the process is repeated again. sadly in an abused engine it is not the same. You have rapid breakdown of sludge, it overwhelms the oil filter, clogs up the strainer at the pickup screen of the oil pump, on and no time the engine is running on low oil pressure (which explains why the oil light started flickering in traffic) ultimately from low oil pressure the engine gets starved of lubrication, becomes noisy, rattles and finally freezes up.

full synthetic oil should never be used on an engine with long term abuse. Regular and shorter oil changes with mineral oil after returning temperature settings will be a better approach, to maintaining an abused engine, if you are not ready for a replacement or a rebuild.


As to what killed the honda V6 engine.

That particular model has a very sensitive catalytic converter system. In most toyota's, with age and mileage the catalytic converter gets burnt out, but in Honda, with age mileage and abuse the converter gets blocked, a blocked converter means exhaust fumes on that particular bank do not get to leave the exhaust system with ease, the exhaust system is narrowed down to a smaller diameter, a typical example would be drinking water from a cup VS sipping water from a straw.
The effect of a blocked catalytic converter results in overburdened connecting rods, excessive heat in Cylinder head, excessive wear to valve stem seals, and a general loss of power.

It is typical to find such cars smoking excessively (white/blue smoke).

Continuous Use of engine in that state leads to a catastrophic end for said engine.

With this last post I have finally ended this story.
I trust it was beneficial to many, and I hope you are not learning the hard way.

I want to re-appreciate to The nairalander who gifted me this phone that helps me type volumes in a few minutes.

One love every one.

With all the money that has been spent already, no tangible reason for susenpension given, let them come and account for the monies first before suspending it.

Another avenue to loot our collective wealth

Fighting corruption indeed

omo261:
Happy new month

For quick response, pls use this call, WhatsApp and telegram number 08056022511. Thanks

For quick response, pls use call & WhatsApp number 08056022511. Thanks

Oshaprapra

Must go today, very clean, this vehicle is just like mint, u need to see it, it's a good buy

Available

U need to see this car