₦airaland Forum

GAZZUZZ:
Do not get it twisted, Nigerians who buy scrap parts from the United Kingdom are after mercerdes, Volvo, Audi, Peugeot , fiat and other European models.

When it comes to loading containers I have a lot of experience in that field. You are neither here in Nigeria , neither an engine seller , neither a Nigerian , you have no idea what I am talking about

GAZZUZZ:
Meanwhile we buy German French and Swedish parts from Europe.

The engines I usually buy are from USA and Canada

GAZZUZZ:
If we go by your uneducated assertions, no one should import any vehicle older than 2010 into the country.


You see that you have plenty English and no sense

GAZZUZZ:
Zimwit, you are back.


First let me educate you before settling down to Insult you.


Engines from north America Europe and Asia are not scraps, they are removed from accidented vehicles in 99per of cases.

Classic example is the engine below.

I have detailed the advert so you can see the vehicle was in run and drive condition before sale.

You are not a Nigerian, do not live in Nigeria and you have no idea how hardworking nigerians fill up shipping containers all around the globe and bring them down to Nigeria

https://www.nairaland.com/6005867/lexus-toyota-2grfe-engine-complete

GAZZUZZ:
For years you have contributed nonsense on this forum and you have been corrected by my self and others.

I know it is painful to be a mechanic and still be a dull one.

If I am a fool for giving a guarantee, I can imagine you do not even give any your self.


I will take out time to write about your foolishness on the cartalk section

ShutdownBrown24:
The major reason I scanned the car is that the car consumes so much fuel. 5k fuel can finish within 30mins with AC......... 50mins without AC.

The car shock me. That’s while I had to scanned the car.

The misfiring in the car.. I’ve not experience it. The car move smoothly. It’s just the fuel consumption.

ShutdownBrown24:
Sorry ... I don’t understand you. Can you break it down to a layman terms. I’m new to cars thanks

utepu:
It obvious your car is misfiring. As in your car dey jerk. You need to check that nozzle and or the spark plug where your engine is not getting adequate supply of current and or combustion

Princeton92:
Will someone please tell me the difference between a 1.8L 4-cylinder car and a 2.4L 4-cylinder car? Which will get better gas mileage? Can I make a straight comparison between these car engines?

omoadara:
Hello House please what could be happening to my car?

I notice the break does not release itself when i apply it.

tyre is not rolling and the rim hot.

what do i need to check pls

DGD1:
I really appreciate the comments here, I've been busy with work. I've not seen the guy nor the car yet.
We spoke moments ago, the car had gadget burnt again, new mechanic told him the initial gasket was fake. Had to change it, but since then the car didn't overheat but the rev isn't stable.

He has abandoned the car now, I will have free time (next week) to help him check out the car putting all the aforementioned into consideration.

I will update when I get hold of the car.
Thanks again

Kelvin30286063:
See story...

Kelvin30286063:
Everyone is changing their radiator to double cell and if you take a single cell radiator to the market, no one will take it from you even if it's brand new. Ask yourself why.

Kelvin30286063:
That's the issue. Change the radiator to double cell.
We bought it 19k 2 days ago

DGD1:
Good afternoon,

A friend of mine uses Toyota corrola 2009, his radiator burst about a month ago, he managed it to mechanic (his mistake). The mechanic told him the gasket was burnt, so he changed it and the top cylinder was grinded(according to him). Fan connected to run direct.

The car last week while I was driving had its temperature to the roof(pictures attached). Noticed the water on the radiator dirty (no coolant), then mechanic asked to remove the thermostat, I allowed him(I noticed the thermostat was dirty, the mechanic said it was bad). We flushed the radiator and put clean water. I noticed the car temperature was still at the middle as though the fan wasn't connected directly. They told me it was normal (my mind wasn't settled).
He just called me now that the car is doing overheating, he had to park.

Please what could be the issue

breezy007:
Good day Car Gurus, I have gone through so much trying to solve a particular problem on a Kia Cerato 2012. 1.6litre, I think from 09-12 use the same engines.

I noticed the oil light some months back flickering after about 4 hours journey, after which I parked the car to cool down and had it checked mechanic said top gasket was burnt Paid for a gasket replacement and that was it after, Prior to that, noticed the thermostat wasn't there, as usual the mechanic was tryung to blame it, fan still works with the sensor and comes on when I use the ac, akso I use the car with ac 90% of the time.

I have not had need to drive the car longer than 1 hour but recently I noticed the light came back, especially if I run the car with ac and drive for about 30 minutes, slow down or come to a complete stop it appears then goes off once I accelerate.
I met a mechanic who cleaned the bottom plate and claimed it would stop. It didn't.
I met a Kia specialist who said it would be the the oil pump. I paid for a new oil pump installation and total engine servicing. After a week I noticed it again. He said to ignore the light. As he is sure oil was pumping and there was sufficient oil. Now I felt very uneasy each time I see this light but then after ignoring the oil light for about 30minutes driving around, temperature light appeared and clearly there was overheat, met another mechanic who dropped the top although the gasket wasn't really burnt, grinded it and changed it, water pump checked infact I allowed the electrician connect the fan direct for about a week nothing changed, I've been told to buy a double cell radiator, obviously it's all guess work. U use pure coolant finally the mechanic dropped to engine to check the bearings only to discover some bearings had haves off or worn out, replaced the bearings coupled the engine and with joy feeling our Kong term struggle was gone after running the engine for 2 hours. Oil light is back on. So clearly something is making the engine lose compression. Thus particular mechanic is really good and detailed, he is equally frustrated as he is sure my engine block, piston, top, fan gearbox, oils are all in order.

winta2008:
I have to guage the tyres. Yet, the yellow color is still showing. Can Someone tell me what is the problem?

Kaybaba5:
Before I bought the fuel my odometer was
187 186 reserved I noted it I bought 5000 naira fuel I used for 14 days I checked my odometer when it reached reserve it was
187267

naijadrivablog:
So, I notice the oil of my vehicle "shorts". I told my kazeem to check for leaks and he didn't find any, apart from that of the hose of power steering which splashes oil on back of the engine.

He told me to flush the engine before my next oil change. Is this a good idea?

Please note that my engine steams mist even in some afternoons.

PS: Car: 2000 Toyota RAV4L

Nurey, gazzuzz, et al

ZIMDRILL:
its very simple

1 nowadays oils are multi grades meaning there are still very efficiant at both low temperature and operating temperature

2 The most worry is at cold start, where oil can be thicken by cold therefore multiple grade that is still efficeint at cold based given value eg 5w-30

3 Whether summer or winter once operating temperature has been reached, the oil temperature would be also controlled by the coolant and air (based on the design of the oil sump/pan)
some car have an oil cooler where oil gets cooled by coolant

So oil temperature gets also regulated by coolant remember coolant is there to cool the engine therefore oil tempe gets cooled/controlled


4 your confusion is on the last digits eg 5w(40) the 40 doesnt represent ambient temperature but it represent oil viscosit @ operating temperature therefore according the grades they use to measure oil viscosit at operating temperature its put into that 40 category

So the most import number is 1st digit/s 5W in our case as this when the engine is vulnerable, if the oil is thick at cold start it wont flow quick and fast enough at cold therefore the engine gets damaged or worn out soon over time

5 Have you ever wondered why whether its in Seberia, Alaska or Saraha, Namibi desert when the operating temperature as been reached, the engine maintain the operating temperature irregardless of its ambient temperature be it -20 degrees Seberia winter or 35 degrees Namibi

timenamoney:
I am here to learn and to share my thoughts and experience

many in various trends are saying our ambient +43 degree temps don't matter and have no effect on oil, that car with radiator regulates engine temperature and also help to bring the engine oil up to operating Temp 100 degree through the help of the themostat , asking if our weather is hotter than engine temperature 100deg

there's is also a clear statement by oil manufacturer saying in 5w30 , 5w is the low temperature weight while 30w is the oil weight in 100 degree , which is also the engine coolant temp range,

on different occasions during summer , you find out that oil temperature gauge move above 100 degree , (which they claim the oil get to 30w at operating Temp) to +44 ,+46 and above .

my question is....

1)what viscosity will 30w oil be in 106 degree engine oil temperature during summer ? ( = it will be lower than 30w VISCOSITY which will not lubricate the engine properly and course more wear and tear).

2) why does engine manufacturer display ambient temperature oil chart which shows that 30w arrows to +38 degree and BELOW , when they know that it is suitable for ALL temperature?

with the above ideology I wish to prove to you that 40w mostly or 50w oils may be the best choice for +44 or higher temperature and severe load condition, and will not harm our engine, (and 30w is for state's with +38 and below temperature ) the only disadvantage is less fuel economy , but with synthetic, flow will be better.

pls guys what is your engine oil temperature gauge reading during hot summer?

what your take in my view?

REMEMBER TIME NA MONEY

I am beginning 2 wonder why some of the people I have interacted with prefer Mercedes Benz C190,200,220,240 to japanese cars. Taking into consideration d cost of mercedes Benz spare parts and I am made 2 believe that d mechanics charge a lot for labour.

Pls I need some clarifications on d cost of spare parts like shock absorbers, brake discs, water pump, airflow meter etc.

Is the craze for japanese cars worth the headache?

Many thanks for ur contributions

chukel:
is there any turbocharged highlander engine?

Born2conquer:
A 2010 highlander, got it in may

Born2conquer:
I got an highlander in may(thread on my profile) the highlander runs fine!! And i love it.

The only issue is that the Engine oil dries up within 2 weeks .
We’ve changed different oil brands and we’ve also added treatment

I really don’t know what to do again

Omotakins:
yes, it overheats over a certain distance

erico2k2:
well some cars do not have direct openings on the radiators.so fru expansion tank must it go fru.

gogetter09:
Good evening,.. I just realised that my radiator fan is working rotating... and I have. turned off the car about 1hour ago... I had to removed the battery terminal cos it will drain my battery... Audi A4. 2007 turbo Quattro... please help

majorbass:
Good day guys,
I currently own a Volkswagen Jetta 2007 2.5 Automatic transmission car.
And will appreciate every support I can get in form of advice...especially AC.
I just changed the water pump, changed the alternator roller and one of the four pulleys as I have changed my belt like 6-7times already in 3months.
Please help me.
If there is a whatsapp group, kindly add me as well 08062087993

Markgsxr4:
HI

audi 80
1994 b4
saloon
2l
8v

starter motor wont crank, changed starter motor and ignition switch,central locking pump / alarm box works fine locks and unlocks,
starter relay clicks on turning key its like the immobilisa is not comming off.
thanks mark

gogetter09:
Good afternoon
Audi A4. 2007 turbo Quattro...
I am having a gear box issue... anytime I select reverse, it takes a few seconds before it moves backwards with a jerk...and when I am driving on the highway sometimes all of a sudden the dashboard will highlight PRNDS all ON at the same, then I notice the rpm will be very high but won't move with the proportion of the speed... until I park and restart the car again it will normalize, sometimes it re-occur again during the same transit.

It has be scan and mechanic said its complain of gear selection 3 and 4... and he suggesting that I should keep using like that until it stops working... but I am worried cos I don't want it to breakdown on the highway

The mechanic checked the gearbox oil level , he said it okay and oil is not dirty.

How can I fix these issue cause