₦airaland Forum

BE811APP: Dnt knw d details abut d engine.. I knw its an I4 abi IV4...

It was Serviced like 2mnths ago... (Will service it next week) to see if it changes... I hardly travel with d car...

And my driving patterns as I said earlier... I don't drive like am in a hurry... No matter what!!!

very funny

how do you buy a car without knowing the engine size how will you calculate your fuel running cost without the engine size

no need to service it again

BE811APP: Hey Motor Gurus,
I drive a 2000 Honda Accord...
Lately I have bin feeling d Car Sucks my fuel unlike b4... Evrythng seems normal with d car.. No jerking, No Missing etc.. Don't on AC sef...

So, today I bought 10 litres of fuel jst to try and see hw d days Goes... Thruout today I covered jst 37 Miles and d 10litres is almst finished...
Is der anythng wrng with ma car

Pls how many litres is burnt on each mile
N.B.. I don't press d pedal down like d way kids drive



Thanks in anticipation!!!

the most important is the engine size

then after knowing the engine size

then

we come to when was the last time the car got serviced

and finally your driving patterns

omodapson: I don't know where to put this, but I hope the mod will help place in the proper place.

The picture below is that of an operational public transport tagged Ajumose by the Ajimobi led government in Oyo state. The surprising thing is the way the Learner's sign was conspicuously displayed on the vehicle with further inscriptions that warns other road users to keep off. I can't help but wonder if same could be allowed in a functioning state. This only shows the dysfunctional level of this society. if you must learn driving, should it be done on a public transport system? And who was the guy that certified the rookie driver?

The vehicle was seen plying challenge-ojoo axis of Ibadan.

I think it's more of a comedy than it actually looks. smh.

yes learning to drive is done in a public roads if it is from a driving school the vehicle have dual control

Farayolas: Goodday house
pls i use a 1991 honda prelude 2.0L 16V engine which i discover of recent that the battery terminal lightly spark during connection.pls any effect

my misses was saying the same yesterday when she phoned me, they wanted to jump start a car and they couldnt find the negative and i asked them to attach the negative to any metal part of the engine, they did that and it sparked and they phoned me back saying its sparking, just told them to ignore the spark and as women they wouldnt continue

they didnt like the spark

its normal to spark

BoomBoom101: A friend that's into lending business just recovered a car used as collateral from a customer dat defaulted. He wants to sell d car because the customer have not been able to come pay the money since he seized d car. Pls, if I buy d car, hope there won't be any aftermath legal problems. Serious advices pls. Lawyers are most welcomed.

no specially if you dont if it was done within the legal lines of law or street justices

banky3w: Go see a competent mechaanic to help you check the brain box/ECU. It could be the cause!

why the ECU when code hasnot been shown ?

the ECU receives data from sensors of the car, its the sensors that are most of the time faulty

not the ECU, ecu get corrupted but very are

so go basic of scan your car and also servicing the car

lomomike: sorry sir, no offence here, are you saying u just reset a code that indicates a problem straight away or u scan, decrypt the code, locate the problem spot and correct the problem?

this what you are forgetting

before resetting the airbag you scan the car if there is no airbag code or other stored codes then you just reset the air bag nothing else

if it is the air bag module that is faulty then no matter how many times you reset it will shown up on the dashboard and also a code would have been stored in the ECU then you go deeper in trouble shooting which means it is not just a reset that is needed

in 97 % of time you dont touch anything except resetting (when no code is shown) and switch on the car then car does its self test (if everything is ok then the airbag light switches off) if not you are back to square one

lomomike: Mr ZIM DRILL pls wetin bring LIAR enter this chat? I don't know if u realize telling someone to reset the warning light indicated in his instrument panel is a con suggestion cos it only hides the warning but it doesn't necessarily solve the problem which is still lingering. @ OP pls ignore such trash when someone tell u to "just reset" any fault that trigger ur warning light to show up. Take that car to a competent diagnosis centre for scanning, then engage the service of an experienced + careful mechanic to correct the fault. Pls read ur car owner manual for more information.

i dealt with such issues almost everyday

97 % they just need a reset a major fault the sign will come back after resetting which is very rare

Cruise-z:
Let me start by quoting the mechanic; "if you don service the nozzle the car still dey chop fuel, you go change the nozzle be that. The mouth don wide so e come dey spray too much fuel". That was the verdict passed by a mechanic invited to find out why a pool car we use in my office consumes excess fuel. The mechanic neither scanned nor inspected the nozzle. He instantly suggested servicing the nozzle. Thanks to an extensive discussion about servicing nozzles here on nairaland, I lied that it has been serviced in the past to take his mind away from such dangerous practice.

Honestly, I don't know if nozzle opening can expand to the point of needing replacement but something tells me the mechanic's verdict is wrong. He didn't suggest inconsistent pressure, car running rich etc just outright change. So I have come to the experts in the house again like I usually do.

there is nothing like that

besides even if it expands the amount of fuel that is being sprayed would be the same since all this is called by the ECU aka brain box so matter how wide or narrow is the opening the amount would be the same

so dont be fooled and conned your money

oloriooko: I waited long to see where i could post this topic but found out that there was no section for traffic situations in this country and i think Seun should do something about it cos i do not know why we have Autos and Car talk sections which to me are very similar.

Now to my post: i noticed the impunity with which commuters along the Airport road Abuja put their lives at great risk by abandoning the pedestrian bridges newly built for them rather they run across the dangerous wide road, sit on the road dividers just to cross the road with the bridges very close to them, some even cross the roads right under the bridges.

funny enough, we have the road safety spots at the city gate and lugbe but they seem not to be concerned about what these people do cos they even stand by the road while commuters run across the road at lugbe.

https://img96.imageshack.us/img96/3656/pix2d.jpg
commuters running across the expressway


https://img209.imageshack.us/img209/9332/pix5h.jpg
commuters sitting on road dividers waiting to cross the expressway

thats not a death trap but people putting their live at risky

lomomike: ur wrong sir, resetting the malfunction light doesn't solve the problem, rather it stops it from showing on the instrument panel and when this happens with the fault still in place, it could lead to no deployment during a crash which suppose to trigger the airbag deployment or the airbag could suddenly be deployed even when there is no crash and that isn't what u'd like. @ OP u need to be worried about such light. D light u described is "SRS airbag malfunction lamp" it comes up when there is a malfunction with any of ur vehicle's airbag module, its relay, or its sensor. Don't just let anybody reset/flash the code for u, instead take the car to a competent auto workshop for scanning, from the scan result, the fault can be traced. If the fault is traced pls ensure that the repairs is carried out by competent/ qualified mechanic. Thanks

dont lie to people as long the airbag has not deployed, all it needs is to reset unless if it always poping back after resetting

thats the reason it lights up when you switch on to position I or II then switches off the car will be doing a self test, if everything if fine it switches off, if it is not it stays on, meaning it needs to be reset

in most cases airbags dont need fixing its just a reset if the airbag has not deployed or it is just replacing with another one and the self test will detected the new connected one

eastermaris: Pls i need advice from experienced hands. My 2005 toyota avensis started displaying warning lately and my mech seem to be more confused than myself.
Its a red warning picture of a man sitting on the front seat with a round ball-like thing in front of him like a steering. Pls what cld be wrong? Thanks house

nothing to worry its the air bag its just needs resetting by the OBDI scan but most basic scans cant reset airbags lights

charlesazeh: pls help....my Nissan Maxima keeps burning my coil, since i changed my brainbox...what can i do? pls ur advice

When you changed the ECU

was the ECU from the same car and model and engine size

what the reason you changed the original ECU

sultaan: Don't buy any flush, did you change the filter when you drained the fluid, and also check the level to make sure its properly filled

the right amount of litres of your gearbox

gateleo: The car was scan but no code. Thanks bro.

ok did the scanner communicate with car ?

try this flush the gearbox once more .i.e buy a transmission flush liquid and add to the oil already in the gearbox and drive for 10 minutes and then empty the gearbox and fill up with new oil then take it for drive

Becarefull with transmission you buy go for recommended ones they save you in long run

and also if you cant get transmission flush do as i have said without the flush liquid

arcis: i have this problem with my baby car, in the morning, it took longtime to change from gear 1 to 2. after that, the gear select normally. but as soon as i leave the car for like say 1 to 2hrs, it takes some time to change again.

though, i travel with the car always (lag to IB) without problem when it started changing gear.

I have changed the ATF (Oando dextron if i am correct) like 3 times since i bought the car last year. i also observe that the car jerks when moving the gear from P to D or P to R.

i have changed the engine seat,gear filter and i was told the gear seat is ok but the problem persist.

Make = Mitsubishi
model = Carisma
Year = 1998
Engine Size = 1.6

kindly save my baby from total break down.

thank you in advance auto gurus!!!

scan the car it might give up a code

then we take it from there

plendil: I've driven cars without the ABS and those with. My observation is that those with ABS seem to have longer breaker distance.

I can understand the need to prevent the wheels from locking while driving on a wet road, but if the road is dry, where sudden braking would be needed to avert an impending collision, the ABS, unlike the conventional brakes, may not live up to expectation.

its not about braking distance but being able to left or right aka to steer

with ABS the car would lock in one direction whereas ABS gives room to steer in any direction since the wheels wont be locked and the ABS locks and brakes so many times within a second that allows the car not lock in one direction which in most of the straight ahead motion

0key: Thanks bro for your kind response. My car occasionally detonates on mild acceleration especially during hot weather at operating temperature of 90'c. I feel if I use thermostat of 60'c-75'c, it will eliminate it. I've done scan and no fault detected. Someone told me to check the EGR valve but i have no idea of it.
Any alternative solution will be appreciated

dont touch the thermo

go for service i.e sparks plugs, petrol filter

0key: i am using camry 2002 4cyl engine. I want to change d themostat(rating 90'c) it came with from canada to a colder thermostat of rating stated above because of the hot weather.

whats the reason you want to change it ?

90'c is the world average opening for a car thermo whether in alaska, dubai, brazil etc , thats just above the engine operating temperature

60 or 70 your car will be raining on cold and it will burn more fuel and also you might not find 60 or 70 you are looking for

Saylawchar: I noticed that the airbag light is now permanently on, my mechanic has tried all he could to correct it but he's not just getting it right, can anyone pls advise me on how to wipe it off from the dashboard maybe through the use of a PC.

find a scanner that can reset it thats the only way

there is also a diy way put i wouldnt tell you its not for people who are novice to car electronics

Coefficient: Please I need input from seasoned auto technician persons on this forum. My 2003 Murano has the SERVICE ENGINE SOON indicator on permanently and the engine turns of immediately after ignition. I have to accelerate to keep the engine running till it stabilizes on its own. I strongly feel something is wrong but dunno what it is hence this thread. Kindly help. Many thanks.

get your car scanned and code will appear that code will tell u what is wrong

mic foley: Need help frm the auto gurus in the house. I acquired a toyota corolla 2005 in 2011. I had issues with the fuel pump in July 2012 & got an auto electrician to take a look. He said he fixed the problem by soldering the components and I continued with the car. I however noticed that sometimes when I step on the accelerator, it takes time to pick up speed. Last mth I drove to the airport 2 pick someone only for the car to refuse to start when I was ready to leave. Other motorists told me it was the pump and I got a mechanic who 'fixed'it but advised me to get a new one asap. I drove it 2 work the next day- a distance of abt 50km, but the car refused to to start when I tried to return home. I got a mech who cleaned the filter and started the car. As I dropped the guy at his w/shop the car refused to start. He then proceeded to give me another fuel pump with which I started d car. Few days later the car stopped while I was driving in town. I left the car for abt 1 hr, poured water into the radiator and started the car after noticing there was a leak in the water pump. I changed the water pump and asked another auto electrician to check the fuel pump. He said the new fuel pump as a fake and was the cause of the vehicle stopping mid drive He helped me get anoda which i used for abt 4 wks b4 the car stopped and refused to start while I was on the expressway frm work. I got a mechanic who checked and said d fuel pump was faulty and advised I get yet anoda. I did but the car again stopped and refused to start abt 10km away. I towed the car home and got a mech frm a toyota shop who took the fuel pump and casing for repairs. The car worked reasonably well for the first 2 days . On both days I drove to a destination , parked, spent 3-4hrs b4 re startingthe car without problems and returning home. On the 3rd day,on my way to work I STOPPED ABT 4KM FRM MY HOUSE TO GAUGE my tires. When the vulcaniser was thru, THE CAR REFUSED TO START. I CALLED THE mech who came abt 5hrs later and started the car in one attempt. WE then drove the car to his w/shop, abt 15km away without any problems to my surprise .He then said he wld change the spark plugs and clean the nozzles/injectors as those were likely the problems and not the fuel pump He assured I WLD have no problems after that. When he was done , I drove the car home without any problem .The next morning my wife drove the car to church but the car refused to start after the mass which was less than 1 hr. I went to pick the car in the evening abt 8hrs later and it started at the second attempt. I have parked d car at home since then. i BELIEVE THERE IS A FAULT WHICH KEEPS DAMGING THE FUEL PUMPS. What do u guys think?

i doubt that it is the fuel pump

get your car to proper mechanics have they started the fuel pressure on fuel rail to blame the pump ? even checking the regular ?

Costee: The fuel pump is probably on its way out. I believe the fuel temperature sensor is in the fuel pump unit, and you are not likely to get it to buy solely. Again, are you sure that the CPS that you installed is of the same part number as the one you removed?

why mislead him when the codes point to the problem

replace the sensors and let us know of the result

possible cause from AUTO DATE 2009 are wiring, the sensor its self or ECU aka brain box

in most cases if the wires have never been tempered with and are good it is always the sensors

Honeyhill: Pls o..my ABS is nt working well,only one leg in front holds break,and wen u hit d break pedal it goes down to d end bt d car would stop.my mechanic has said he is going to disconect d ABS and make the break system manual.I decided to bring it to the house befor I take it to him. Would d break still work well?ts an auto trans

your brakes might need bleeding

ABS WORKS IN THIS way if brake sudden at fast speed ABS kick by braking and releasing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwwXukJaTlM for you to be able the steer left or right

chikasin4: at siena my car suffers d same ABS problem recently, It is Toyota sienna 2000. The ABS and d tyre pressue warning light shows at d dash board. i hv reset it but it keep on showing. pls i need help too

you reset after knowing which sensor from the 4 wheel is faulty then change it and reset

if you reset without finding the faulty it will pop up again

juliuskay: it does't not somke and it does not show light indicator on the dashborad. i wsz advice to change the engine from mobile ..iappraciate ur contribution tanx any more advice is welcome.

how offen do you take your oil ? and when was the last time you did ?

without oil the engine will seize

for now give us the deatils of your car and i will give the amount of litres thats go into your car

then you buy and refill your car but since you are saying it is already lossing speed thats not a good sign

ladiesluv4: I bought a fairly used toyota camry 2001 v6, last year november and has been ok till feb.,i was in a serious traffic in ikeja for a long time and the temp gauge went over the half mark even after switching off the A/C and the reserve thank filled and was coming out thru the reserve vent and smoking, after then its been doing the same thing. I have changed the radiator to double cell and replaced the top gasket, its still the same thing.....pls need suggestions.....

half mark is the normal reading temperature and just above it still is ok since your were stuck in traffic, meaning that there was no air blowing into the radiator (you were stationary)

this is where the fan takes over, when the temperature reaches 89-99 degrees then the fan kicks to blower air into the radiator (the car is stationary not air flowing into the radiator )

but if you are driving air is forced into the radiator grill by the movement and speed of the car

CHIMSKY: I drive a Toyota Camry 98.I noticed that the fuel gauge was no longer showing a true reflection of the fuel in the tank so my electrician checked it out and changed it.However the problem persists.Just last week the warning light suddenly called my attention to the fact that the fuel tank was virtually empty.Yet the fuel gauge was showing half tank.What could be the cause?

the fuel sender unity is easy to test

take it out from the take and hook it up to a test meter

like in video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5FNqZLedU8

Piyke: When I try to do a rapid acceleration the needle gets to 4000RPM and then starts falling gradually despite still having my foot on the accelerator. To get it to rise again I would have lift my foot of the gas and apply it again gently.
This does not happen when I accelerate slowly, if I
do slowly, I would hit 5000RPM without any
problems.
The Check Engine light is not on and I have used a dealer level diagnostic tool on the car and it returns no codes whatsoever.
Outside this the car moves fine and does not even
jerk when this happens, you just notice the car
slowing down despite hitting the accelerator. Any ideas?





The car is a 2003 4cyl Accord.

is your car automatic or manual ?

remember with a manual you need to change to lower gear to accelerate fast

automatics have what we call kickdown sensor, when acceleratiom peddle is down on the flow the car changes down to lower gear for you to have a good accelaration

coupe-boy:
Pls help!
My Honda babyboy is mixing oil and coolant in the reservoir tank and also in the radiator. i bought this car about 6 months ago from the USA and now in use in Nigeria. just recently,is wen i observed this. I check the gasket and confirmed OK. Now what exactly is the cause of this and how also can it be remedied?

how was the headgasket checked ?

O boy: My Car is 1997 Toyota Carina E 1.8GLi, if am on motion my steering wheel will be soft and easy but when i slow down it will become very hard that i have to apply force to turn it. it started after the hose which was leaking was changed and the mech. said it is the power steering pump that i should change it. pls i need ur opinion/suggestions. Is the mech right? Car Gurus

when the hose changed the mechanic top up the fluid ? you need to check the fluid level

deelummy: I noticed my camry central lock doesn't work once car is switched off. it used to work for like a minute after the engine has been switched off. Even the remote lock and unlock isn't working anymore even though it still send signals and the vehicle receives it.
Please anyone with valuable information should help.

did u check the fuse