₦airaland Forum

banky3w:
Please help my fellow nairalanders, my toyota camry 98 V6 started jerking when the engine reaches the uptimum temperature at first but now jerks constantly whether cold or hot. When moving, the engine revs higher suddenly before changing to the next gear even though i don't do that myself and whenever it tries to change gears when i'm 3000rpm and above, the gear shifts and then downshifts again contineously until i let up on the pedal a little. Please what is the probable cause and solution to this problem because i'm already spending much on this problem to no avail. Pls Help!

katsim:
Hi guys my nissan pathfinder engine hook and cannot start,any one with this kind of experience ?.

AutosBay:
Check in your Drivers Manual for a Code Reset. Press the power button and enter the code.

Mickboro:
Pls i want to know if absence of cabin air filter can it stop the ac from cooling cos am experience something similar and my gas is still filled.

Unionised:
Okay, here's the thing.
I need a comprehensive pricing for the following to compare with my mechanic's quotation.
I am changing the following on my Rav 4 2002 model

1. Hub - the two at the back

2. Stabilizer

3. Tie Rod (hope the spelling is correct)

4. Ball Joints

5. Shock Absorber (the two in front)

6. Something called SEAL. My engine oil drips so he says he will drop the engine and seal some place there.

Please advice on prices and types advisable for a car like mine.

Also, to Service my car, he uses MOBIL XHP 20W-50. Is that the best for my engine?

This is the first time i'm doing anything major on the car, I need to get it right.

Appreciate your contributions.

obitee69:
Good day guys, I met a Car AC mech and he told me that this is the usual problem with camry 2007. That I have to change the compressor and the condenser. That my compressor is failing. That if I change one and leave one I will have d same issue after 2weeks. Bill is compressor 35k condenser 15k. Chei!!!.....He also ssaid I have to change my regulator to manual not automatic. That automatic isn't suitable for naija. I don't knw what he means sha. Help advice me. What do I do. I no get 50k to drop for car now

Samson92us:
what best car make that less consume fuel? can anyone help me out.

5p1naz:
So guys which is worse in Nigeria or anywhere in the world, driving without a driver's License or driving with an expired driver's License

obitee69:
Yes it was. But does not having a cabin air filter make a car AC malfunction? Cos I don't have one according to the ac man.

obitee69:
Bro it's a manual AC. I refilled yesterday.

chimah3:
U making it sound like there are Pre-defined foot rules for driving!! Which is NOT!! I guess its jus different strokes for different folks !

Ikeeberendu:
please can anybody link me up with a good mechanic for grand Cherokee jeep

Emmysteve:
My coolant has been empty. As if its not connected or something. I have been using it like that since i bought the car

Emmysteve:
Please help me, this problem has been persistent. I have to top water almost every time and i am getting tired already. I have traced every possible hole on the car but nothing. When ever i open the coolant, i would still see water on the surface then top it. I don't just know where exactly is leaking. Pls help. Thanks

birdman:
im laughing at you. of course its not from the car. its an OBDII report from the cars computer. the same computer that can also record powertrain, brake and a host of other info. dude do yourself a favor and learn something that might actually help you. ignorance and arguments, deadly combo ...lol

oba009:
When I said shorten oil I mean before the next time of changing the oil and filter it is already below gauge.

The Car is Petrol engine and it is Automatic.

Is it every month that I should be changing the oil of by distance of say 9000 miles or what?

birdman:
The only thing you proved with those pictures is that your driving pattern is consistent. Here is an example for jeeps:
http://www.wkjeeps.com/wk_oil_indicator.htm
Here is a similar one for your 2008 Audi - read the first 3-4 posts
http://www.a5oc.com/forums/a5-general-q/8326-oil-change-service-interval.html

By monitoring powertrain, brakes, etc, the car has a good idea of your driving pattern.

The next time you do mostly all highway driving for a 1000 miles, do an oil check. Look at the color and viscosity. Do the same thing when you do a significant amount of in-city driving. You will find the oil dirtier when all you do is stop and go. Why? Starting and stopping your engine introduces the biggest wear on the engine. Once you are at speed and stay there, this is the state the engine was naturally built to operate in, and your oil works the way it should.
Im sure you can google car.com to get more details on the above.

I have done mostly highway for a couple of months >70mph, and my oil indicator life is just above 50%

capsogiga:
I have a 2004 lexus RX 330(4WD) with loud GRINDING noise from the back of the car. The noise is very loud when the car is in reverse even on a smooth road. It is also very loud on rough bumpy road. it seems to disappear when I am speeding on smooth road.

The noise sounds like metals rubbing against each other. I have changed the two rear shock absorbers but the problem persists.

Can someone with similar problem which has been resolved help me out ?

Thanks

birdman:
Driving in traffic is worse than driving on the open highway. Unless you are doing 85mph and above, your car experiences less stress than if you are in stop and go traffic. In fact on newer vehicles, the onboard computer that tells you when you need your next oil change is adaptive. If you do only stop and go traffic all the time, it will likely make you change your oil after 3000 miles. If you do all highway, it could be 6000+ miles easily. Mixed conditions is somewhere in between.

Gentlebabs:
Yes you can. If your 3rd party is geuine, call the insurance coy at the scene of crime and report the incidence, then they will.advise you, usually to take the 3rd party vehicle to the nearest garage.

icemann:
Really? Sorry but i think you should reconsider that statement.

A really worn bearing would cause your car to drift to oneside and wear out your tires very quick.


Mr you are right.

mecussey:
Nobody just the physics idea I have about friction. I don't like tellin a mechanic that I don't know whats wrong with my vehicle. Otherwise, they will do nonesense and still chop you on top.

oba009:
Please my space wagon is hard in starting in the morning, lazy to pick up when accelerating, consuming fuel and shorten oil.

My mechanic say it is the turbo on the injector that need to be serviced for laziness in accerating and consumption of fuel. Also he said i need to change the engine if shorten oil. But I just bought this vehicle from germany in June this year.

Please is my mechanic right and what did you think I should do?

Please I use Mobil oil the one they sell for 3000/4litre and do servicing every month.
My Journey with the car is to go to work and come back.

Thanks.

egesie:
If you stay in Nigeria, you find certain people that go from gear 3 to gear 5, like my bro uses gear 3 to reach abt 70km-80km then jumps to gear 5 n the car speed picks up steady from there, when I started driving on express, he was like no need for gear 4, unless u're driving up a hill or trying to reach top speed fast.
So m just wondering apart from my bro n dad, I'm yet to meet other people who do that(maybe because most ppl drive auto now)
I'll like to know your opinion

stephenponti:
HELLO my Oga's My Golf 3 was working perfectly until recently the temperature meter rises to 80 if I turn on the ac.
My mechanic said it was top gasket I changed it & it still Overheats,
HE said I should go flush the radiator or change it entirely, I did the latter but has to reverse it and return the radiator to seller as the overheat continued,
HE said we should try change water pump which I did and we also removed the thermostat & the temperature rise still continues.
My two fan works perfectly well also as some one checked it out.
Now the car will just not start when the temperature is high. The heat I guess ve also affected the keystarter.
Now please somebody who have idea of the actual solution should please advice me, because I feel so bad having spent all this while trying to fix the problem without solution.
IKenna, Siena & many other car guru in the house please help a brother.

rainmaker12:
Having said this www.nairaland.com/1987418/disadvantages-rev-car-up-6000rpm whats the best rpm to roll with everyday, be it turbo charged, super charged, midrange or lower powered engines.

blackrules1:
what are the symptoms?
how can the problem be corrected / prevented.

Thanks all.

Emulti:
honda CRV 1999 MODEL(manual drive ). D day before, d CAR got stuck in one of the bad roads here, after much firing it came out. though d clutch was low bt I was able to drive it home. the nxt day, a friend came nd took it for a wedding nd called some minutes later to inform me dat d car has refused to move nd dat they ve taken it to nearby mechanic. on meeting d mechanic he told me dat d clutch plate plate is burnt. to cut d story short, he changed d clutch plate nd clutch disc nd it started working. But changing gear especially gear 1 is very stiff, I complained to d mechanic who advice me to change gear oil which I did yesterday morning bt d problem is still not solved. pls ur advice is needed. Thanks

popeurban:
Hi fellas! In the course of repairing my worn out steering, my mechanic advised that my engine cover gasket leaked oil and needed proper sealing with gum. I allowed him. He opened it and found heavy oil sludge and decided to clean it. After "coppling" the engine bk, we drove out for testing and behold, my "oil waring light" came on! because it was late and my house was near, mechanic advised that I "manage" the car home, and bring it bk the next day. I did as he advised. While I was driving bk the following day, I heared some knocking sound, and shortly the engine stopped! I started the engine again, but the "knock" grew louder. Soon the engine started shuddering heavily and went dead. I informed the mechanic and he shouted and warned me not to start the car again. I then towed it to his workshop. He opened the engine cover and saw that one of the "timing or cam shafts or rods" had broken in two. I bought a new one and replaced it after "toroughly" cleaning the engine. After everything he did, the "red oil warning light" refused to go. He said it must be oil pump and I bought another oil pump. Still the "red" light kept flashing. He said it must be pieces of oil sludges in the "old" oil. We drained the oil and replaced with new Mobil 1 Oil along with an "original Thailand oil filter". We started the engine and after about 25 mins, the "red light" came up again. I was referred to a "more qualified" mechanic who after reving my engine literarilly shed tears. He told me emphatically that my engine is badly injured, that the sound is nothing but cranks of jamming metals! I cried too and asked him what to do. "Oga, I no lie you o. U need a new engine" he told me. Now, I need a new 3.0 litre VVTI (1MZ) V6 engine for my sweet Toyota Avalon 2002 XL. Please fellow Nairalanders, help me with reliable information on how to get very sound, genuine replacement that will wipe tears from my eyes. Thank u all.

Emulti:
car guru's in d house I need ur advice pls. my CRV developed fault I gave it to mechanic. he changed d clutch plate nd disc after which selection of gears especially gear 1 is very hard. he told me to change gear oil which I did bt d problem persists, pls I need ur advice on what to do next. Thanks to u all.